(Topic ID: 48353)

Gottlieb Abra-Ca-Dabra Restoration

By RyThom

10 years ago


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  • 123 posts
  • 36 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Rat_Tomago
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 123 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 10 years ago

After discovering my father's gorgeous Abra-Ca-Dabra sitting in his basement with a family of mice living inside it, I took it upon myself to restore this machine to its former glory.

Mechanically, things don't seem to be in too bad of shape. I couldn't find any wires that were chewed up and the machine does turn on and cycle (as well as it can with the grimy mechanicals)...but the playfield...is just gross.

Here are some pics:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x64hepc6gaxs6t0/2013-04-24%2009.15.31.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5zay7vxo5533g8/2013-04-24%2009.12.36.jpg

Yup, that's caked-on mouse crap, folks! You should've seen the huge nest that occupied the entire area between the flippers and pops before I sucked it up with the shop-vac!

I've read many articles on playfield restoration and have a good grasp of the cleaners and techniques to be used, but my big problem right now is getting the lower metal apron off. I removed the two screws on the front face of the apron (the screws I'm talking about: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lxmefqysz6yrwvq/2013-04-24%2009.13.08.jpg) but the thing still won't come off. Is it the caked-on crud that's holding it in place or are there more screws I'm just not seeing? My Stern Stars apron is a snap to remove, I figured this would be the same procedure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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#2 10 years ago

The smell has got to be awful! I just wonder how you are going to air this one out so it doesn't smell like mouse turds every time you open it up.

#3 10 years ago

Try giving the apron a good whack from the screw side.

--Jeff

#4 10 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

The smell has got to be awful! I just wonder how you are going to air this one out so it doesn't smell like mouse turds every time you open it up.

Haha! Yeah, it's not a pretty smell. I've left it airing out for a few days and have vacuumed up 99% of the visible turds...its just that caked on "turd-icing" that's left. Mostly it just smells like the 70's in there

Quoted from way2wyrd:

Try giving the apron a good whack from the screw side.
--Jeff

It worked - thank you, Jeff! I ended up snapping off the little finishing nail on the left side in the process, but it's an acceptable loss. All that mud really had a hold of it. I also see now that the apron has rust near the edge that touches the playfield, the white paint is flaking off and maaaaan is there a lot of buildup under the apron! Hey, something else to do!

#5 10 years ago

Such a shame, glad you are willing to take on this daunting project. I love that game. I have use testors white enamal to touch up the apron. If it's too far gone, Pin Rescue has decals after you repaint the white. Keep us posted on your progress.

#6 10 years ago

FUUUUUUUUUU.....!!!!

You couldn't pay me to touch that biohazard, lol.

#7 10 years ago

LOL! Seriously, frax. It's disgusting. (by the way AWESOME avatar! I almost chose the same thing. NES Pinbot rocks!)

I'm dreading seeing the condition of the paint under it all. Fortunately most of the crud is covering bare wood or a simple design. Tonight I'm ripping everything off the playfield and hosing 'er down! Wearing clothes I can burn afterwards.

Thanks for the tips on paint and decals, stashyboy! I don't think I'm going to need decals - it's just the edge and about 1/4" up - but good to know about that resource!

I really love this game, too. Not just from childhood nostalgia (I grew up with the game in our house) but from game design and art, too. It's crazy-hard, and I don't think there's an EM backglass that comes close to it's righteousness!

#8 10 years ago

It's not so much the turd that is the problem, but the piss. Mouse piss will eat metal up like no tomorrow. Most likely the metal bits that hold the apron down are corroded to the apron itself. Might take some brute force and some swearing to get it off. Other than the mouse mess it looks like the PF is in really nice shape- no insert/pop bumper wear or anything.

#9 10 years ago

Agree, I looked at the larger pics and you can likely just paint the vertical surface where the ball rolls. Also agree the rest of the field looks excellent well worth the effort to endure the pee. There are certain things that can neutralize the pee (do a web search). How is the rest of the cabinet/back glass?

#10 10 years ago

You'll want to wear gloves and a mask. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hantavirus

#11 10 years ago

I was just going to post what Johninc said. I'd treat it as an extremely bad health hazard until the mouse workings are cleaned up.
If it were my project there would be no question about it, I'd get it cleaned up and the original paint fixed best as possible then seal it all in clear coat. I'd also plan to remove the stainless cabinet rails so the plastic glass guides can be thorougly cleaned and disinfected along with the whole area under the stainless rails.
The area is very close to the lock bar, where people put their hands to play the game. Then their hands eventually touch their face.

#12 10 years ago

While it is fairly gross there has apparently never been a reported case of Hanta virus in Mi.
http://www.cdc.gov/hantavirus/surveillance/reporting-state.html
Not to say it couldn't happen but I think the risk of being the first is pretty slim.

Congrats, I bet it will clean up to be nice machine. There are a lot of guys that would love to get their hands on a free Abra-Ca-Dabra. I know I'd certainly endure a little yucky clean-up to have one.
Alex

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from matthess:

It's not so much the turd that is the problem, but the piss. Mouse piss will eat metal up like no tomorrow.

You got that right!

I've got a music server in my shop and mice pissed all over the inside of the powersupply and motherboard.

Killed the whole thing dead.

All I can figure is when I would shut if off, it would still be warm for a few hours and those SOBs though it was a good place to hang out.

I've got the replacement hanging by threaded rod and the mice have not figured out how to navigate over to it, yet.

#14 10 years ago

That is a nasty mess but worth it for a nice pin. I recently picked up an Abra Ca Dabra of my own that needs some minor repairs. Thankfully I have not had any pins that had that level of mouse infestation. I do have a project pin that a cat peed on the playfield... Yuck...

-- Shawn

#15 10 years ago

Wow, thanks for the heads up on the Hanta virus. I was definitely planning on wearing the grubbies and a facemask anyway, but I'll make extra sure to keep clean. Now I'm all paranoid....

Aye, I'm definitely going to take the rails off and give them a good polishing. The legs, too and probably the coin door. If you're going to do something, may as well do it right!

The backglass and rest of the cabinet are in very good shape. I'll take some more pics tonight. There is this interesting fine black "marbling" on the cabinet paint I'd love you vets to take a look at. I've never seen it on another machine before.

So sorry to hear of your mouse troubles, vid! That totally sucks. I have my big ol' cat prowling around so hopefully he keep the pins safe from an infestation at my place.

#16 10 years ago

That sounds like the typical Gottlieb 'webbing' of the era (less scratches/dirt shows)

#17 10 years ago

To remove apron, remove the 2 screws closest to the coin door. Remove 2 screws on the top of the apron. You will have to pry the apron from the coin door side, and slide it towards the flippers at the same time. There are 2 slots right behind the flippers that have metal retainers. The apron slides onto them. Be careful not to scratch the playfield. They shouldn't be a problem. The mouse crap will act as a shield.

#18 10 years ago

Please keep us posted on the clean up, and progress of restoring this Abra Ca Dabra, post more photos.

#19 10 years ago

I didn't have nearly the time I hoped I'd have last night so I wasn't able to take anything off the playfield, but I snapped a few more photos of the overall condition of the machine.

I managed to get the apron off (thanks guys!) and saw the total extend to the rodent feces. That thing was really a bugger to get off - I had to get a screwdriver in there and pry it from the metal clips (didn't touch the playfield with it - it's all good).

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#20 10 years ago

Here are the rollover lanes:

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#21 10 years ago

But the good news! Check out the drop targets and pops!

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#22 10 years ago

That makes me sick. Both the poopiness and the fact that a game like that got so destroyed. Good luck with the restore though. Abra-Ca-Dabra is one of the games I'd clean mouse turds off to play!

#23 10 years ago

Here's some shots of the cabinet and backglass. The cabinet isn't in quite as good of shape as I thought with some obvious gouges in there, but I'm totally in love with this backglass art! It's 100% looking at it from the back, too.

And see that black stuff? I always thought I scribbled that on with a pencil as a horribly irresponsible toddler, but it's gotta come from the factory that way because it's done on the inside of the cab too and the first time I ever saw the guts of this thing was two weeks ago! They call that webbing, stashyboy?

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#24 10 years ago

I've seen far worse cabinets.

That pin is going to clean up nicely.

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from Garrett:

I've seen far worse cabinets.
That pin is going to clean up nicely.

I've seen far worse cabinets in my house.

#26 10 years ago
Quoted from ReallifePin:

I've seen far worse cabinets in my house.

Roger that!

#27 10 years ago

You ought to be able to use a toothbrush and a shop vac to get the mouse crap off of the playfield.

#28 10 years ago

One of the best wedgeheads, maybe the best! Love this machine!

Mouse piss/turds aside, it's in nice shape! The glass looks perfect, and the reds and purples often flake off!

Good stuff! Make sure and do a final picture update when all's cleaned and sparkly!

#29 10 years ago

I think the playfield will look great when you finish cleaning it...at least it doesn't look to have any wear around the flippers which is always a plus. I love the original cabinet artwork with the webbing!

#30 10 years ago

Thanks for the encouragement, gang! Really looking forward to seeing how she cleans up.

In the meantime, I want to order a rubber ring kit and a new shooter spring, but I'd also like to replace the flipper coils. I remember from 10 years ago one of the flippers was desperately weak - it could barely make it up to the drop targets. Figured I'd give both flippers fresh coils.

Now, as much as I love this machine, I'm totally a Williams System11 kind of guy. What coils can you recommend to give these Gottlieb flippers a similar kick without being over-powering? I still want the game to have its classic feel...but I also don't want it to be neglected by my friends while it sits next to my High Speed! I've heard of orange and yellow dot coils (orange sounds about right) but where can I order them from?

#31 10 years ago

Pinball Resource.
http://www.pbresource.com/

On most games I would caution the use of stronger coils on the flippers due to the possibility of plastic and drop target damage. But with the playfield on this pin it's probably ok due to the layout. You want to verify the inserts aren't cupped so bad that they can launch the ball off of the playfield. This could cause the ball to catch one of the plastics.

I would also see if PBR has new drop targets with the proper decals. You may not need them but you won't know how brittle they are until they take a couple of hits. I've also heard people will fill the upper back side area of the drop target with silicon(?) to help prevent breaking.

Some will aslo suggest trying the high tap prior to installation of stronger coils.

I would also get new pop bumper coils and verify the sleeves are nice and clean or replace while you're at it. Looking at the playfield, I bet a bad shot on the pops is going to cause a pretty quick ball drain.

#32 10 years ago

You can also high tap the transformer to give some zip. I would rebuild the flippers. If the coils test out fine, it's likely the linkage that has slop causing the weakness (also end of stroke switch contact/operation). But at Garrett pointed out, PBR is the source for all things Gottlieb.

#33 10 years ago
Quoted from RyThom:

What coils can you recommend to give these Gottlieb flippers a similar kick without being over-powering?

I'll probably get shot down for this but I think you're better off with the standard A - 5141 flipper coils which I think have plenty of power in them if they're working right.

My concern would be damaging the drop targets with the over-powered flippers...especially if they are a little bit brittle from age and the elements. They're a pain to replace especially when you've got 10.

#34 10 years ago

No, I think you're right 4horse, I rarely replace coils, but do high tap. Since the targets are farther away on this game, I don't think breakage is such an issue. High tap also gives better pop bumper response and sling shot action. Steve young doesn't have a problem with this improvement, though others frown upon it.

#35 10 years ago
Quoted from the4horse:

I'll probably get shot down for this but I think you're better off with the standard A - 5141 flipper coils which I think have plenty of power in them if they're working right.
My concern would be damaging the drop targets with the over-powered flippers...especially if they are a little bit brittle from age and the elements. They're a pain to replace especially when you've got 10.

I agree with the caution, but the drops are at the top of the table. Old targets may crack pretty easy, but new ones can take a pounding.

If it were me and hell bent on putting in yellow dot flipper coils, I would replace all the drops if PBR has them in stock, may or may not have decals.

For the record, I don't high tap or install stronger coils. I like to keep the pins stock.

#36 10 years ago

I agree with stashyboy. A flipper rebuild may be all that is needed. Also as mentioned check the EOS switch adjustment. I don't know how many games I've brought home that simply needed a proper switch cleaning and adjustment to go from nearly inoperable to responsive.
Alex

#37 10 years ago
Quoted from AlexF:

I agree with stashyboy. A flipper rebuild may be all that is needed. Also as mentioned check the EOS switch adjustment. I don't know how many games I've brought home that simply needed a proper switch cleaning and adjustment to go from nearly inoperable to responsive.
Alex

I agree with you guys as well. But I'm afraid the OP is going to compare rectified table play to older non-rectified. Big difference in gameplay and ball speed.

#38 10 years ago

Great advice, guys! Thank you! I'm going to hold off on buying new coils until I can test the gameplay and see how it all feels with cleaned/adjusted stock coils. The nylon sleeves are basically black, though the linkage looks good.

Yeah, I'm really not crazy about replacing all those drop targets - might just stick with the stock coil strength even though the drops are a ways away. The idea of filling the hollow back with silicon is a good one, though.

I really enjoy how EM's play (especially SO76 and Hot Shot), I just want this table to feel fresh and snappy. Going high-tap might be the way to go. Are there long-term side effects to switching to high-tap?

#39 10 years ago

When you say the linkages look good, have you checked the amount of play in the pivot points? That's what's really important. If the linkages are original, they should be replaced (as well as coil sleeves). Very inexpensive and will make such a big difference. Another thing to check is the return spring tension. It should be just enough to return the flipper, but no more. Adjust as needed, by moving it to another screw on the bushing. While we're at it, those bushings should also be at least checked for play with the flipper axle. There will be some, but not too much. Again cheap to replace. PBR has all those parts in their rebuild kits. I usually buy just what I need to save a little.

#40 10 years ago

Alright! Got (most) everything off the playfield and made the first cleanup pass with some Simple Green. It's already starting to look WAY better! Need the right socket for those return lane posts, though....

The linkages on each flipper feel very different from each other. One is very tight and strong feeling, the other is significantly more loose. I'm positive they're original linkages. I will definitely be going them over as you suggested, stashyboy! Once the thing is sterilized I'll move onto the mechanical bits.

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#41 10 years ago
Quoted from RyThom:

The linkages on each flipper feel very different from each other. One is very tight and strong feeling, the other is significantly more loose

This will help with the flippers -> http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/pcqsc.jpg
Indexing the spring is one key to flipper performance.

Looking good on the cleanup so far. PBR will have what you need.

#42 10 years ago

Looking good. Way better already than you thought it would be by now I'm sure. So terribly envious. Glad it's working out so far.

#43 10 years ago

If you don't have the correct socket for the return lane posts, I use a Crescent wrench (very carefully of course).

The playfield is starting to look considerably better. Some Novus #2 should help get the rust stains off. Use some Brasso on the ball guide rails to get the rust off of those.

#44 10 years ago

Steve Young told me the right hand linkage is usually worn out more.......Most players are right handed and tend to slap the flipper button harder! I took a deep well socket and drilled out the depth another 1/4 inch to fit the posts. Took some time and effort, but worth it!

#45 10 years ago
Quoted from RyThom:

Great advice, guys! Thank you! I'm going to hold off on buying new coils until I can test the gameplay and see how it all feels with cleaned/adjusted stock coils. The nylon sleeves are basically black, though the linkage looks good.
Yeah, I'm really not crazy about replacing all those drop targets - might just stick with the stock coil strength even though the drops are a ways away. The idea of filling the hollow back with silicon is a good one, though.
I really enjoy how EM's play (especially SO76 and Hot Shot), I just want this table to feel fresh and snappy. Going high-tap might be the way to go. Are there long-term side effects to switching to high-tap?

This is the right course. Most weak flipper issues come from making sure the linkages are smooth, return springs are not too tight so the coil doesn't have to fight it, and most importantly make sure the "End of Stroke" switch is adjusted properly. An "EOS" switch that opens too early robs power from your flipper.

#46 10 years ago

I took another look at your pics, if you can do it, remove everything from the top of the field for the best cleaning. Switches and targets are pretty easy, just unscrew from back side. If you choose to remove the lane guides, be careful about pulling out wood/paint. I use a small block of wood with a notch cut at one corner that I put around the wire. Then I use a claw hammer to gently work the wire out alternating from one side to the other. I wouldn't advise this if you haven't done it before and don't plan to do any touch ups. There is always a little paint loss. your paint looks to be in very good shape. The two wires that are just below the flippers (to prevent bounce backs) can be taken out with a thin pry bar. They are easier to remove as they don't have the nubs that the lane guides have. Would be good as they can be cleaned up better with the mouse poop/pee damage in that area. New flipper 'Islands'-PBR term, can be had and are pretty cheap. screw onto the existing flipper axle. Seeing your game makes me regret selling mine as I really enjoyed the art package and game play. Keep the updates coming!

#47 10 years ago

Hows the resto going? This morning I was able to find an Abra-ca-dabra for a good price from a local guy that I know. I am about to check it out now. From what I could see in one picture the playfield is easily a 9/10 and he says the backglass is extremely nice and does not need to be replaced. I get to pick it up May 15th and bring it home. I will post a few pics on this forum when I get it. I am so excited right now.

#48 10 years ago

Dan,
Im glad you grabbed that up from Ken before me. I have no room

#49 10 years ago

You have no idea how stoked I am to get this machine. I will eventually have it repainted, everything chromed, new coin door etc.

#50 10 years ago

good to see it being restored, abra-ca-dabra is one of my favourite pins. The artwork just clicks for me and I'd love to find one here in Aus as I've only been able to play the virtual pin and drool over photos and videos

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