I searched the forum and found similar topics, but didn't find the answer to my problem. I am hoping some of the gurus here can help walk me through this.

I am working on a Gottlieb 300, and am having trouble getting the game to complete the startup sequence and begin a game. This is what happens:

Credits are on the machine. I push the start button. Motor starts running, player unit steps to the 20th position (per 5a on the operating instructions), and energizes the Z1 relay. Score reels for players 1 and 2 reset. At this point, the player unit should step to the 21st position, and the score reels for players 3 and 4 should reset through the Z2 relay, but that does not happen. The score motor continues to run until I manually step the player unit to 21st position, and players 3 and 4 reset. However, once the score reels reset to zero for players 3 and 4, the game matches and ends. Things that make me go hmm.

I will include the Operating Instructions for “300” in the next post.

GOTTLIEB 300 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
1. Inserting a coin or pushing the replay button actuates 'S' relay (Start relay).
2. This relay will lock-in through its own switch and a motor 2B switch.
3. 'S' relay starts the motor running.
4. 'AX' relay actuates and the 'coin' unit subtracts through switches on 'AX' and 'S' relays and switches on motor 4C and motor 1A. 'Q' relays de-energizes when 'AX' relay operates.
5. When 'AX' relay actuates, the reset relays 'Z1' and 'Z2' are energized in sequence by rivets on the 'Player' unit, through switches on 'AX' relay.
5a. Motor 1A steps the 'Player' unit, through switches on 'AX' relay and 'P5B', to the 20th position energizing 'Z1'.
5b. When 'Z1' is energized the 1st and 2nd player score units reset to zero through switches on motor 1A, motor 4A and 'Z1'. When all score units of the 1st and 2nd player are at zero the player unit steps to the 21st position through a normally closed switch on 'Z2' and normally closed switches on all score units. The 3rd and 4th player score units now reset through switches on motor 1A, motor 4A, and 'Z2'. The player unit continues to its zero position through the closed switches on 'Z1', 'Z2', 'P5B' and motor 1A until 'P5B' opens.
6. When 'P5A' on the player unit closes, 'AX', 'BX', ‘DX’, ‘EX’ and ‘FX’ relays reset through motor switch 1b and switches on 'K’, ‘U’, ‘O’, and 'R' relays. The reset cycle is now complete.
7. Inserting additional coins or pushing the replay button will step the 'coin' unit to a maximum of 3 through switches on 'U' and 'S' relays and a switch on motor 1D. The replay button circuit opens when 'coin' unit is on 3rd position.
8. Place the ball in the out hole. The ball return switch closes and completes the circuit to 'O' relay through the normally closed switches of 'EE', ‘E’, 'K', 'AX', and 'Q' relays. 'O' relay locks-in through its own switch and a switch on motor 2B. When ‘O’ relay is energized, motor 4C actuates the ball return coil (which kicks the ball onto the runway( through a switch on ‘O’ and a normally closed switch on ‘BX’ relay. The ball is now on the runway and is ready to be put into play.
9. The remaining balls that enter the outhole are kicked across the trough switch which pulls in 'P' relay. 'P' relay runs the motor. Switches on 'U', motor 2C, 'P', 'BX', and motor 1A advances the 'Player' unit the required number of steps determined by the 'Player' unit switches and the 'Coin' unit.
10. When the ball passes over the trough switch, ‘P’ relay pulls in and resets the advance unit to the top position through switches on motor 1A, ‘P’ relay and the fifth position of the advance unit relay ‘KS’.

Thanks DF.

300 has the BX relay. I think it was unlatched.

When I was troubleshooting the problem earlier today, I checked all of the score reels for players one and two. Each has a normally closed switch in the same position (1st or 5th, depending on point of view). Also verified a normally closed switch on Z2. Following the operating instruction steps, I looked at the motor and relays. I was hesitant to do anything to the motor switches other than look at them. I ran a business card between a few of them, and it came away dirty, so I am sure they need to be cleaned. I took the AX, S, Z2 relays out and manipulated the switches to make sure they worked as they should, and that gaps were proper, and they seemed to be.

I am not with the machine now. I will try to get over there tomorrow. I will check all the switches, see if the contacts need attention. I want to look at motor 4A switch.

Printis

It looks like I dropped the ball on this, but, honestly, I haven't. 300 is at my shop. I intend to go today or tomorrow and follow suggestions above. I will report back. From researching, I think going through switches and cleaning/verifying proper gaps will go a long way.

Thanks Neo. I am going through it now, and didn't notice any contact pads loose. I will check again.

After the reels for players 1 and 2 reset, Z1 does not de-energize, and player unit does not step to position 21, so players 3 and 4 do not reset. If I manually trip Z1, Z2 energizes and players 3 and 4 reset. And it goes to game over.

BX relay. One of the leaf switches was in the wrong slot on the "ladder". I corrected that and now the game kind of tries to do something. Z2 still doesn't energize automatically.

Have to leave the shop, but back on it tomorrow. I will look at more of the ladders.

Heading back to the shop in a bit. I will check AX and BX. I have pulled those relays a couple of times to check them. I may have mangled something taking out/putting back in.

This hint helped me solve my Z2 issue.

I recently read some Mr Pinball tips. One of them involved leaf switches - if one breaks, snap off the end of the leaf but don't desolder wires. Put the new leaf on top of the other, reassemble, and all is good. Turns out that happened on the player one hundreds unit, but the pad on the replaced leaf did not line up with the pad on the rigid leaf. I soldered a tiny washer under the misaligned pad, and Z2 now energizes and resets the score reels. I mucked something else up in the process of searching for this issue, and start button does not start a game any more. So on to that. One step forward two back.

I picked this up for $80 last spring and am finally working on it after cleaning the play field. I experimented with the Treasure Cove kit and think it did a good job.

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The family who sold it had owned it for 30 years or so, and it was broken for 15 of those. Had no fuses when I got it. I popped a couple in and lights came on and some of the mechanicals worked on it. The cabinet is in nice shape. The original door was very rusty, so I swapped it out with another I had. Made a world of difference cosmetically.

I have been lucky - the past several machines I purchased locally were stored well decades ago, remained in decent shape, and had owners with a realistic idea about value.

_{Post edited by PMcGee: mo info}