(Topic ID: 194500)

Gottlieb 300 - Basket case


By WhiskeyTango

2 years ago



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  • 94 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by D-Gottlieb
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#7 2 years ago

This machine normally will be in tilt mode at power on. The backbox lights should be on, playfield lights off, game over light on, coin entrance lights on. The ball should not eject unless resetting the machine. Upon resetting, the playfield lights will light. The AX relay is the heart of the reset sequence and is quite sensitive to proper adjustment. Ensure that it is correctly working before messing with the score motor or anything else. You can also check the coin detect. If they stick, it will cycle endlessly. Does the score reset at all?

The switch you point out is one of a few slam switches designed to prevent the cabinet from being picked up and dropped. If this switch is opened at all during a game, the game ends. The tilt switches are located below the left flipper button. There is a pendulum and a ball switch.

Cleaning, tightening and adjusting every relay is an excellent approach. Once a relay is adjusted correctly, it won't give you any problems for many, many games. This game has several latch relays in it. They successively close with each ball lighting up more of the add bonus targets and rollovers. There is also the KS relay which handles the spinning target and bagatelle lights and bonuses.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

This is what appears to be going on. Should the Game Over and 1st Ball relays be on as well?

I cleaned the contacts and I thought I did the AX relay properly, but I will double check and post pictures. I did remove the coin mechs and gapped/cleaned those switches. I'm assuming those are the coin detect.

Thanks.
Sorry for the stupid questions, but it's a real pain doing all this without manuals and schematics.

Call Pinball Resource and get that.

#27 2 years ago

Check the player unit in the backbox.

#29 2 years ago

It sounds like you have multiple issues throughout the machine. The springs rarely get weak, what happens is that the workings get mucked up and need cleaning. The score reels need to work correctly and reset. Going through every relay and switch is what you should try next. It is pointless to troubleshoot without first adjusting the various contacts.

#31 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

+1 use the systematic approach, as per Clay's EM guide. http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

Exactly. It will save you a lot of headaches.

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Alrighty. I’ve pulled each reel, cleaned and set the contacts. Is there something I’m missing?

If one of the reels does not reset to 0 but the others do in that player, then, yes, you are. Solder joints can weaken and lose contact. A reflow will fix this. Check all the jones plugs in the machine. Check that all the solder tabs are straight and clear of each other on every relay. A manual has the startup sequence listed step by step. I would strongly suggest obtaining one.

#40 2 years ago

There is a tilt switch attached to the underside of the playfield located near the middle that looks just like the bounce switch you asked about earlier, however this switch needs to be open, not closed. Check that switch.

#64 2 years ago

The EOS switch on a decagon score reel is not necessary for proper operation. The events that trigger the score reel end quickly enough anyway. If you have jumpered it closed than you have introduced another issue.

#67 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Alrighty. Can you elaborate? It seems odd that it would work as soon as the bad switches were jumpered. What should I be looking for?

The EOS on a solenoid is there to break the current to the solenoid as the stroke is completed. Pop bumpers, for example, will lock on until the stroke of the bumper is completed even if the triggering event (the ball hitting the ring switch) is of such a short duration that the bumper would not activate fully if the eos was not present in the circuit. When the bumper completes its stroke it opens the eos that kills the solenoid circuit and allows the bumper to retract. Scoring events are by pops, spinner, cushion or by score motor in this machine. The cushions and spinner will 99% of the time be closed by the ball long enough for the score reel solenoid to fully cycle, 100% for the score motor and pops. That is all the eos does here. On flippers it does some thing else, but lets leave that for now as that is not the issue here.

#69 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Got it. I've removed all the jumpers off the score reels.
The Player Unit stops and the Z1 relay in the backbox energizes. Since it doesn't move past this point, it looks like I have an issue where one or more of my score reels isn't registering as back at zero. Correct?

If the jumpers were actually across eos switch contacts, all that would happen is the reel solenoid would stay energized once triggered during a scoring event, I am not sure whether that would apply during the reset sequence. Does the player unit operate at all with the jumpers removed? Can you upload a video to youtube? If you move scoring reels from zero at each player do they reset?

#70 2 years ago

Btw, are you certain that tbe AX relay is adjusted correctly? It has make/break contacts that can be very sensitive.

#73 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Scores do reset if they’re not at zero.
The Player Unit operates when I start a new game and stops once it hits Z1. I can manually advance the Player Unit one time and it will finish the full cycle.

Are the contacts lined up correctly and in the correct timing position relative to the shaft and are the wires on the wiper good? Z1 relay contacts clean and adjusted?

#76 2 years ago

So those were not eos switches but contacts. Probably zero contacts. There is only one eos per reel. You will see a couple of switches in the reel assembly with double contacts to increase reliability. Any switch that operates with the position of the score reel is not an eos switch. Congratulations on your progress. It did advance the ball to the next player as I could hear the player unit step once. You had it set for more than one player. It looks like there could be a bad connection somewhere, jones plugs maybe, a lot of lights are out in the backglass (player lights). Just keep going through the machine following Clay's guide.

#78 2 years ago

I just edited my post. The lower switch is indeed one. Haven't run across the other switch in a decagon before.

#80 2 years ago

There is an adjustment screw that is normally inside the white piece that will limit the replays. Max is nine. just remove the screw.

#83 2 years ago

One thing I found on my Top Score was that the wire loom was chewed up and taped back together near the player unit. I can only think that it was not clear of the unit and it wore through. So check all the wires, I guess.

2 weeks later
#89 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Whatever genius had it before apparently had his Tilt and Slam switches confused. I had to go to all of them and set them properly.
Thanks for you input; It takes a village to fix an EM. lol

I am thinking I said this early on. Glad it worked out.

#91 2 years ago

So, now what's it doing?

#94 1 year ago

Agreed. Going through like you are, you will discover things out of place. This is why EMs are great.

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