(Topic ID: 239731)

Gottlieb 1976 tilt hold does not activate


By Boise_D

5 months ago



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  • 7 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by HowardR
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#1 5 months ago

1976 Gottlieb Royal Flush. When I power it on, the Q and U relays energize as they should, but the H relay (Tilt Hold) does not. If I hold it in manually the game seems to work correctly (all the way through a 3-ball game). I removed and tested the coil ohms and got 32 or 34. I also tone tested the coil wire back to the Jones plug. Can someone explain exactly how I can use alligator clips to try and manually fire this coil? Or, any other ideas on how to test this circuit?

#2 5 months ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

the H relay (Tilt Hold) does not. If I hold it in manually the game seems to work correctly

If the Tilt Hold relay (H) doesn't stay activated when you push it in briefly, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

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#3 5 months ago

thanks for the reply howardr. I will study those links. I'm confused on where to connect the clips for a test.

#4 5 months ago

I would still like to understand how to bypass this for future reference and learning. This would be a great troubleshooting step.
Am I jumpering each set of switches on the relay? I don't think so, but that's an option. If I'm jumpering the coil itself, I'm wondering how.
black side - maybe I jumper the black side of the coil to any other black side of another coil. Is that the power side?
color wire side - no clue.
Am I jumpering across the coil itself? I don't think I want to do that without confirming first.

Turns out, this coil started working the next time I tried it. It's holding pretty well now. Maybe that means it's just old and weak. I'm planning to replace it with the Clay-recommended A-16890 half-wave fix, like I've already done with the other 2 continuous hold relays.

#5 5 months ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

I would still like to understand how to bypass this for future reference and learning.

There are 2 switches on the circuit I posted. One on T and one on H. Let's make a guess that the problem is the switch on T.

I said "Inspect and diagnose this circuit with ..."

First inspect: For a switch to work 3 things are necessary
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

Failing that we diagnose with alligator clip jumper wires
Looking at the schematic we can see that switch has a BR-WH-RED wire on one side and a RED-GR wire on the other side. Now look in the game for the T relay and find the switch on it that has those colors. Clip one side of an alligator clip jumper wire on the wire tab with the BR-WH-RED wire and the other side on the wire tab with the RED-GR wire. Now if the game works better or even differently, there may be something wrong with that switch. Exactly how to interpret this result depends on the particular circuit and the result of the test. This can take thinking.

Does that answer your question?

#6 5 months ago

If we're talking about testing the individual switches on that relay, yes I understand. I was looking for a way to ground the relay coil to try and force it to fire. I was hoping that would tell me 1-if the coil was good/dead and 2-whether the play issues were because of the relay not activating.

Do you know how to ground an EM coil and force it to activate? Where do I put the clip wires?

#7 5 months ago

One way to test the coil is to swap it with another relay that uses the same coil part #. To do it with jumper wires, clip one end of the jumper on the BR_WH_RED terminal on the coil and tap the other end on the RED+WH terminal on the fuse for the 25 volt circuit.

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