Does that score reel reset to 1 from any position, or have you been manually setting it to 1, then resetting the game to see if it resets?

Either way, you might unplug the game and compare how the switches on the misbehaving score reel compare to the switches on a working score reel. You can manually push the plunger into the solenoid and release it to advance the reel. Compare the switches in all 10 positions to see if you can identify a difference. Also check that the lever arm that activates the switches is sandwiched between the same switch leaves on both working and not working score reels.

/Mark

The switch blades are in the correct slots. Yes, they are touchy and are difficult to adjust, so as Mark says, it can help to look at another score unit for reference.

In terms of how the switches operate, here is what you should be seeing as you manually step the unit from one number to the next:

- The #1 switch closest to the metal baseplate should make contact when the reel is at zero, and be open at all other positions.

- The #2 switch in the middle should be open at zero, and should be making contact at all other positions.

- The #3 switch (with only one contact point) should make contact when the reel is at 9, and be open at all other positions.

The #2 switch is what stops the reel when it gets to zero. The #1 switch is what signals the reset circuit that the reel is at zero. The #3 switch is for carry and is not involved in the reset operation.

If your reel is always stopping at 1 during reset, it would imply that both the #2 and the #1 switch are changing state at 1 rather than at 0. That would be a somewhat unusual fault, but it could happen.

One other suggestion, if you haven't done so already, is to make sure the two screws that attach the switch stack to the baseplate are down good and tight. If these screws are loose, it will make it more difficult to adjust the switches.

- TimMe

I agree. Are you sure that the 10 points is a reset issue and not a scoring issue? Does the N relay fire during reset?

stick a piece of paper in the stack between the back contacts on the runout switch and see what happens.

it does look in your pic like the switch blade is twisted a little and would make the back contact gap smaller, but that could just be the camera angle. Usually ya just put the reel at zero and eyeball in there to make sure there's a reasonable gap for both contact sets.

you can also stick a piece of paper in the N relay switch with the wh-blk and blk+wh wires in case the gap is a little small and you are getting an arc causing a score reel increment even tho the N relay isn't powering.

Those score reel switches are very tricky to adjust. Just keep at it. We just got a Top Score in for repair and I will be starting on it this week.

redundancy and splitting current flow over two sets of contacts isn't a bad idea. If the runout or zero switch doesn't work, the game gets turned off until a service guy shows up.

assuming the single blade for the overflow is factory, then apparently they weren't concerned if the game didn't increment the 100's when the 10's rolled over

when they made it, the blades were straight and the wafers in the stack spaced everything correctly. No adjustment was needed.

the games weren't designed for more than a few years of operating life. Decades later, you get the opportunity to invent more expletives.

if you ever have to adjust/replace a switch buried low down in the middle of a gottlieb trip relay bank, you may want to evacuate people who get easily offended when they hear certain words. If it's a game from the era where the solder joints fall off the switch blades if you nudge them, clear out people in a mile radius to be safe.