(Topic ID: 136190)

Gottlieb 1975 Quick Draw start up / reset issues

By Ramtuathal

8 years ago


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  • 42 posts
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  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Raff
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#1 8 years ago

I'm having some issues getting a Gottlieb Quick Draw up and running. Here's a brief overview of what I've done so far. If I misidentify a part / mechanism, please forgive me. I've ordered the schematics, but they haven't arrived yet and the old labels have mostly come off. So, I'm just assuming what steppers / relays are.

1) I follow Clay's procedures on pinrepair quite closely. So far, I've checked the fuses, cleaned and very lightly lubed the score reels and the player unit in the backbox. I cleaned a gummed up crank arm on the player unit, and adjusted to spring tension on the plungers / coils of the credit wheel.

2) Turned on the game after doing everything in (1) and found that most everything was working. The credit unit would accept "credits" from the coin door switches, the start (replay) button started a game. I manually triggered the shooter lane switch, then the rollovers, then some pop bumpers and bounce switches, and finally the end of ball switch (drain). The game cycled to Player 2, I performed the same sequence all the way through 5 balls for each player. Player 2's 5th ball drain energized the Game Over Relay. Sounds great, right?

3) However, the game would not reset on Start button or manual "S" relay activation. Also, I noticed that the drop targets would not score, and the score reels were not resetting. So, I went after the infamous Ax relay, assuming slight adjustments would fix the reset problems.

4) Now, the Player 2 light occasionally stays lit. The ball count doesn't cycle properly. The Game Over relay stays locked even when I manually try to reset the game. No targets on the PF score. Sometimes the Game Over relay kicks on in the middle of a reset. Replay / Start button does not reset score reels (manually added scores), and a whole host of other issues. Sometimes, all I get are the scene lights and nothing else.

The main point: I messed with the Ax Relay and everything went to hell. I tried to reverse everything I did to the AX switches and springs (which was very little in the first place), but I can't get the game to go back to better-working state it was in before I messed with the relay. Out of frustration, I messed with some other switches and relays a little - to no avail - but now I can't seem to get back to the better condition I started in.

Advice?

#2 8 years ago

Don't 'chase' problems with an EM. You'll be frustrated forever.

Remove the Jones plugs from the backbox and playfield. Disconnect the chime unit and coin door, etc. Pull the playfield out. Remove the big screws and pull out the bottom relay board. The relays are the small coils with stacks of switches on them. The steppers are big square disks with brass rivets, copper wiper arms, coils, gears, etc.

On the relays, pull the hairpin to remove the relay and tighten the switch stack screws. Operate the switch stack by hand and look at switches that are open and closed. When you operate the stack by hand the closed ones should open and the open ones should close. Adjust any with a contact adjuster tool. Clean each set of contacts with a flexstone file. Do this for every relay.

Steppers. Make sure they step up and down or reset easily by hand. If there is any binding, take it apart and clean it. Clean the wipers and rivets. Apply a very small amount of contact grease to the disk and rivets.

Do the same with all the relays under the playfield. There is a bank of relays near the A-B-C lanes at the top. Loosen the wing nuts and rotate the bank down. do the same to these relays as you did the relays in the bottom of the cabinet. These relays do not come out.

There are steppers in the backbox too, check and clean those. There are relays back there including a match relay. This I believe runs an alternating relay or acts like one (can't remember). There are plastic gears and a ratchet arm. These get dirty and then don't rotate properly. Typically need to be pulled apart, cleaned and lubed.

The score motor has a pin and it can be hinged up. Those are hard to clean and adjust but rotate it by hand to make sure switches open and close. Clean each set of contacts and adjust any that don't seem to open or close properly.

Score reels need to be taken apart and cleaned. Clean and adjust any zero position switches, advance switches, etc. Take the coils apart and clean. There are springs, e-clips and wavy washers, etc so be careful when taking apart. There are also plastic gears and indexing washers that need to go back the correct way, so pay careful attention.

Once that is all done, put everything back and reconnect everything. Then you can start to chase things that don't work. But 99% of your problems will probably be gone. I'd figure at least 10 hours (if not more) to go through the whole game.

#3 8 years ago

Don't forget the player unit in the center lower back of the head. The switches on this cam need to be cleaned and adjusted on each and gottlieb multiplayer EM or the game will never work right.

#4 8 years ago

Since it was able to work, should be able to get back to that state, but will need to "begin at the beginning".

Make sure there's a credit on the replay unit (unless you know the game has been modified for free play), and make sure the AX relay is in the unlatched state (switch ladder is 'up'). Press the replay button and see if the Start relay energizes.

If S doesn't energize, then try the left and right coin chute switches.

If S still doesn't energize, then there's an open in the path via normally closed switches on AX, motor 1C and 2B, Anti-cheat, Bounce, and then the 10A fuse.

However, AX would be the prime suspect. That switch is Orange on one side and Slate-White-Red on the other. It should be closed when AX is unlatched.

So start with getting S to energize reliably, to get the game reset sequence going.

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Since it was able to work, should be able to get back to that state, but will need to "begin at the beginning".
Make sure there's a credit on the replay unit (unless you know the game has been modified for free play), and make sure the AX relay is in the unlatched state (switch ladder is 'up'). Press the replay button and see if the Start relay energizes.
If S doesn't energize, then try the left and right coin chute switches.
If S still doesn't energize, then there's an open in the path via normally closed switches on AX, motor 1C and 2B, Anti-cheat, Bounce, and then the 10A fuse.
However, AX would be the prime suspect. That switch is Orange on one side and Slate-White-Red on the other. It should be closed when AX is unlatched.
So start with getting S to energize reliably, to get the game reset sequence going.

I agree with Dirt (of course I agree with Dirt, haha! He's the man!), but seriously, I agree: Go back to what you accidentally "broke" and solve the problem there. You don't need to take the bottom board out, etc. -- at least not in this case since it was working previously.

#6 8 years ago

@Dirt - thanks for the advice. It wasn't the switch you suggested, but it was the Ax, specifically the top switch on the MB on the right (from above) wasn't closed when the ladder was up. I can't believe I missed that - I'm halfway back to where I was before. Targets score, flippers work.

I still can't get the ball count / player turn to cycle, and the end of ball switch doesn't work now. I'm fairly sure the stepper in the backbox is set right, so there's still something not working.

The larger problem (I think) that I'm still stuck with is it seems the Start Relay doesn't energize long enough for the reset to complete. What's weird is, if I hold the replay button (on the coin door), the Start Relay stays energized until I release it. I don't get it. I have the schematics now, but I'm still learning how to read them.

Thanks to everyone who has offered suggestions. Any more advice?

#7 8 years ago

I also have noticed that after I hit Start, when I get any Ball lights, it also starts on Player 2. So, normally pushing Start / Replay either causes a partial reset, or a finishes a partial reset and triggers Ball 1 step / light and Player 2 light. Anyone familiar with this? I can't figure out how to even get the game to repeat the same steps, which is hindering my ability to deduce where the problem(s) is (are).

#8 8 years ago

Once energized, the Start relay will stay energized only until a switch at score motor 2B opens. It really only stays on long enough to get things going.

The real reset work is done by AX, which latches in place (rather than staying energized). It unlatches via the AX Reset (AXR) relay firing. There are several switches required to be closed in series to complete the path to AX Reset, but the key one is the Play Unit closing P5A. This indicates the Player Unit has completed its reset.

AX Reset can be found on the schematic at about 12E, then read left to right to see the switches in the path.

If the reset is stopping prematurely, then that suggests AX is unlatching early (via AXR), or has switches that aren't staying fully closed.

So one thing to observe is whether AX is unlatching early, coincident with the reset stopped early. If so, then check the path to AX Reset (but possibly P5A closing early).

#9 8 years ago

@Dirt - So, first, let me thank you again for your advice thus far. Second, I'm going to admit that I didn't even realize that AX and AX RESET were referring to different coils - makes perfect sense now that you pointed it out.

Ok, if I'm reading your advice properly, I should make sure that:

1) the YEL-BLK / YEL-BL-RED NC switch on O (Ball Return Relay) is closed,
2) the YEL-BL-RED / OR-BLK NC switch on U (1st Ball Relay) is closed,
3) the YEL-BL-RED / YEL-BL-RED (?) NC switch on R (Hold Relay) is closed,
4) the OR-BLK / BL-WH NO switch on MOTOR 1D is open,
5) the BL-WH / RED-BLK NC switch on P5A is closed
6) and that the RED-BLK / (?) NO switch on MOTOR 1A is open.

Whew, sorry, that was a mouthful, but I'm trying to make sure I'm reading the schematic correctly.

I'll trace these lines and switches and see what happens - however, if I'm not reading the schematic correctly, please let me know. AXR_PS1.jpgAXR_PS1.jpg

#10 8 years ago

That is the path, yes. The switches on U and R are in parallel though, so having either one closed will allow the path to complete.

Motor 1D and 1A will need to be closed to complete the path (which they will, when the score motor runs).

The key here is the switch at P5A; it shouldn't be closed until after the Player Unit has reached its reset position. If it's closing early, then this path to AX Reset is able to complete early. That's why it would be useful to observe if AX is actually unlatching (i.e. resetting) early or not (if possible to watch it).

#11 8 years ago

I just finished a Fast Draw and I would definitely look at those AX/BX relays.....there's three of them! Mine also was having some reset problems and that was the fix. Even if you "see" those switches closed, I would check it with a meter.

#12 8 years ago

@Dirt - P5A is only closing during the reset, so it's not closing early. However, AX is still unlatching early (I can see it, mostly). I don't think it is P5A (but I can't see both AX and P5A at once, still, the Player Unit seems to be cycling properly).

@Jodini - I kept messing with the AX switches and low and behold, I can cycle through a whole 5 Ball / 2 Player game (again, finally). Player 2's 5th ball drain switches to Game Over like it should. So, it was that tricky AX relay that caused most of my newly-created problems.

Now I'm back to where I started; pressing the Start button doesn't initiate a full reset, just a partial one. If I manually hold the AX in "latched" position, I get a lot of clicking (what is the inc / dec stepper under the PF on the right for?) and cycling, but it does eventually go back to a full reset.

However, I noticed 3 things tonight.
1) The coin switches (I haven't successfully set it to Free Play yet) do different things. The coin switch on the right just adds a credit to the credit reel, but the coin switch on the left triggers the score motor and drop target bank reset - a lot more activity than the one on the right.

2) I accidentally found out that holding down the right coin switch starts a reset - is that weird? It seemed to kick the game into it's proper reset cycle - but it's just a coin switch, probably shouldn't hold it down...

3) It seems that I can only start a 2-player game. When I add one credit and press start, nothing happens. I add the second credit (and it adds 2 credits by the setting), I can start a game with the Start button (though the reset doesn't complete).

4) On "1 or 2 players can play," the 2 is constantly lit, the 1 turns on and off. Again, this sounds like it might be the Player Unit, but I have been over those switches a bunch of times, and it cycles beautifully. I'll look at the schematics to see where the 1 / 2 player switches are and trace them through, just wondering if anyone knows what else might cause this (perhaps it has something to do with only being able to start a 2 player game).

You guys have been a great help thus far, thanks for helping me keep my sanity. I think I'm close to getting this QD up and running. Any additional advice is much appreciated.

#13 8 years ago

So... while I try to figure out those other problems, does anyone know what this is and why it is here? I just realized that: 1) there's a detached wire and this weird "DY" relay. I don't see this anywhere on the schematics. Any ideas?20150822_035314.jpg20150822_035314.jpg

#14 8 years ago

Here's two more angles. 20150822_040651.jpg20150822_040651.jpg20150822_040646.jpg20150822_040646.jpg

#15 8 years ago

Regarding the "DY" relay images above, the loose wires in the first pic are also confusing because I don't see a "PUR-WH" on the schematic anywhere, and I don't see a "GR" that makes sense either (those are my best estimation of what color the wires would be). I'm wondering if those wires were disconnected to add the DY relay - is this a "mod" or something?

#16 8 years ago

Looked around for the "DY" answer and found this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/im-supposed-to-place-a-gotlieb-surfer-in-a-bar-in-brooklyn-later-this-week#post-1754656

I also have 2 play meters installed on the mech board, so I'm assuming that the DY addition was to manage credits. Still, I'm not sure what those loose wires are doing - they don't appear to go anywhere close (all switch blades nearby have all wires attached). I wonder if this is what is causing my credits to "act funny".

Should I remove this feature and restore the wiring back to its original state? Looks daunting, but I'll do it if anyone thinks that doing so is a good idea.

#17 8 years ago

DY is the "2nd Coin" relay (and it's an "AS" style relay, with the stepper mech). It's for setting the game up for like 50 cents for 3 plays and such. Looks like the wiring to it may be modified a bit. This relay won't be shown on the main schematic though; it's on the 'supplemental' schematic for the coin chutes (found in the original paperwork packets).

The left and right coin chute switches are able to work differently (e.g., so you could have the left be one for a quarter, and the right be three games for 50cents). There are two coin adjustment Jones plugs on the score motor board to govern this.

The left plug is for setting what the left coin chute does. The choices are "1 coin, 1 play" and "2nd chute". When the plug is set to "2nd chute", that means that the left coin chute will follow the setting for the second chute (i.e., both coin chutes will behave the same). When it's set to 1 coin, 1 play, tripping the left coin chute switch will start a game immediately.

The right plug is for setting what the right coin chute does. Here, the choices are the number of credits (2 to 5).

So it sounds like the current setup is for the left chute to start a game, and the right chute to give credits.

#18 8 years ago

Also, the DY relay shouldn't be just lying there loose. There should be a (mini) mounting bracket for it like the other relays, and it gets held in with a hair pin clip. Unless it was added later perhaps, if the game was modified to take two coins, and they just didn't get the bracket.

#19 8 years ago

yea that relay is to register two coins before starting a game, ie 2 quarters for 1 play. droping the first coin in activates the stepper once, 2nd coin activates stepper again, closes circuit to start game.

#20 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Also, the DY relay shouldn't be just lying there loose. There should be a (mini) mounting bracket for it like the other relays, and it gets held in with a hair pin clip. Unless it was added later perhaps, if the game was modified to take two coins, and they just didn't get the bracket.

You type fast DF . For once I thought I was going to beat you..

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from Ramtuathal:

P5A is only closing during the reset, so it's not closing early. However, AX is still unlatching early

But note that per the schematic, P5A has to be closed in order for AX Reset to energize, which unlatches AX. So if AX is unlatching early, then that path must be completing.

A quick test is to block P5A with a slip of paper and see if the reset cycle runs long enough on its own (it should now run too long, actually, since AX won't be able to unlatch).

With the power off, if you tip back the Player Unit and manually step it, you can watch P5A and see when it closes (need really good lighting).

Quoted from Ramtuathal:

holding down the right coin switch starts a reset - is that weird?

The right coin chute should only add credits, not start a game.

Quoted from Ramtuathal:

When I add one credit and press start, nothing happens. I add the second credit (and it adds 2 credits by the setting), I can start a game with the Start button (though the reset doesn't complete).

This might be the zero position switch on the Credit Unit not closing until on 2 instead of 1. Or it could be related to the modified DY wiring.

#22 8 years ago

20150822_145210.jpg20150822_145210.jpg
@Dirt - I blocked P5A with a piece of paper and I'm still having the same issue. AX is still not staying latched (AX Reset is energizing "early"). I set the game to Free Play, and now I can get the game to reset score reels and cycle to Player 1 / Ball 1 by pressing start around 10 times in a row (each time, AX latches momentarily then releases). Even with P5A blocked.

I'll look at the rest of the AX Reset circuit again, as well as the AX switches.

#23 8 years ago

Whoops, I meant to upload this picture of P5A being blocked:
20150822_153502.jpg20150822_153502.jpg

#24 8 years ago

Since I've set the game to Free Play, I've been able to see how it cycles a lot easier (that coin switch / DY mess is too much to worry about right now!).

When I press Start (and the reset finally completes), I can go through a 1 player game, ball 5 triggers Game Over, but the next time I press Start, the game starts on Player 2, Ball 5. Drain switch send the game to Game Over, then I can repeat this cycle over and over. Finally, something consistent.

Aside from my perpetual Reset problem, I'm thinking that the CX Reset is also not releasing the CX (2nd player relay). I'm going to look into that, but if this second problem sounds familiar, let me know if I'm on the right or wrong trail.

#25 8 years ago

There is a contact on the AX relay that should advance the player unit to the reset position, lifting p3, p5 also needs to be closed (looking at my surfer diagram...) see the red circle (make sure that contact is closed...)

surferdia.jpgsurferdia.jpg

#26 8 years ago
Quoted from Ramtuathal:

each time, AX latches momentarily then releases

Is AX actually fully latching? If you manually press it down to latch, does it stay latched? Or is AX Reset really energizing, unlatching it? (Just thinking maybe AX isn't getting a physical latch, and is just popping back up on its own.)

Until the game is getting a full, clean reset, there's not much sense in chasing other reset issues (like resetting the Player Unit). AX needs to work solid.

#27 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Is AX actually fully latching? If you manually press it down to latch, does it stay latched? Or is AX Reset really energizing, unlatching it? (Just thinking maybe AX isn't getting a physical latch, and is just popping back up on its own.)

No. I'm sorry, this is such a simple fix. I didn't realize that the AX coil energizes just long enough to latch the ladder, then the reset completes, then the AX RESET unlatches it - I thought the AX coil stayed energized to keep the ladder down (but then what would the AX RESET be for??? Duh...). So, I still can't get it to latch, I've messed with the springs on both plates, but that's not enough to get the ladder to latch. However, if I press start, wait for the AX ladder to start to latch, manually hold it down until I feel the AX RESET kick and let go, I get pretty close to a perfect reset. From that, it seems that if I can get the ladder to latch, I'll get most of this issue cleared up (fingers crossed).

Any words of wisdom on getting that ladder to stay latched? Should I mess with the springs or the switch blades or both? It is so close to latching, but I just can't get it to stay.

#28 8 years ago
Quoted from Ramtuathal:

manually hold it down

With the game off, if you just manually press the ladder down, will it latch and stay latched?

The coil has to pull the armature plate in, so has to work against the pressure from the blades and return spring. The blades have to be adjusted so that they don't put a lot of pressure on the ladder. The tolerance is tight, and once the blades have been messed with from the factory setting, they can be tough to get back to the right.

But the AX coil also needs a good signal to energize. Can try cleaning/adjusting the contacts on the path to energize it, so it gets a solid one. It could be that the coil just isn't getting a strong enough signal.

#29 8 years ago

Hey, I just thought I'd pop back in here and thank DirtFlipper, pinhead52, and everyone else who offered advice on this reset problem. I finally got it working with a lot - and I mean A LOT - of small, careful adjustments to the AX relay switches, springs, and even the AX RESET mount screws.

I ended up with some score reel issues (wouldn't turn over, even after a thorough cleaning and adjustments) - finally shortened the spring and fixed it (I don't really like shortening springs). I also had some issues with some score reel switches that I caused myself. Sometimes I think "Well, I have this out, I might as well make sure these switches are good." No, just no. Clay even warns against messing with non-problem switches, but I guess I have to learn the hard way.

I only have a few minor issues left, but this game should be purring soon.

I still need to get the Player 1 100's to rollover to the 1000's (so 09XX + 01XX to 1000). I had it working before, so I'll backtrack a little. I think it is the top single switch on the score reel (9's) - but I can't tell from the schematics how that is supposed to work. I do know that all adjustments will be one at a time, and minor.

I also can't seem to figure out why I get a Match sometimes and sometimes not. The "F" relay is so weird, and sensitive. I'm pretty sure it is why my Match is sporadic (I've replaced all the bulbs, seated well, I think). Looking into it.

I'm also having an issue with the drop targets. On Quick Draw, after all 10 (2 banks of 5 targets) go down, the center (black "horseshoe") targets come back up and score 5000 pt's per hit (on a single ball). They do score 5000, but the lights on the PF indicating that the targets are worth 5000 don't light up (replaced these bulbs too). However, when "A-B-C" is completed, those 5000 bonus lights light up. No idea.

Finally, when going through the reset, the drop target resets push up on the drop targets for a hair too long and makes a wild buzz when it does so. I think the buzz is coming from the vibration on the bar / arm that raises the drop targets against the target arms. I've tried tracing the switches to the coils that raise the targets (it happens on both right and left banks), but I can't seem to figure out which switch might be staying closed too long. Any ideas?

Thanks again to everyone - I'm so close!

PS - If anyone has a 1975 Gottlieb lockdown bar (one piece, screws not tabs) for sale, I'm in need of one. Post here or PM me - shipping to US.

#30 8 years ago
Quoted from Ramtuathal:

I'm also having an issue with the drop targets. On Quick Draw, after all 10 (2 banks of 5 targets) go down, the center (black "horseshoe") targets come back up and score 5000 pt's per hit (on a single ball). They do score 5000, but the lights on the PF indicating that the targets are worth 5000 don't light up (replaced these bulbs too). However, when "A-B-C" is completed, those 5000 bonus lights light up. No idea.

There's a set of contacts centered on each drop bank. One set controls the point value the other the light. Make sure they're clean and adjusted on both banks.

1 week later
#31 8 years ago

Just to put some closure on this thread, I got almost all of the work on the mechs done. There was still an issue with the "horseshoe" lights not coming on when the horseshoe drop targets were worth 5000 - it was befuddling me for some reason. I sold the game to a very excited and motivated buyer before I could strip the paint / rust off of the coin door / legs / rails. I miss it already, but I couldn't turn down the offer.

Thanks to everyone who helped me through the tough spots. I learned a lot and will continue to learn (I already have another machine, a 1965 Williams "Moulin Rouge" that needs some serious work).

Here's a few pics:
The stuck Player Unit crank arm:20150815_133242.jpg20150815_133242.jpg

The parts of the PU arm being cleaned:20150815_143101.jpg20150815_143101.jpg

The reassembly of the PU: 20150815_144800.jpg20150815_144800.jpg

The Credit Unit disassembled (even though I set it to free play, just wanted it to work):20150815_175520.jpg20150815_175520.jpg

Some CU parts being cleaned: 20150815_175534.jpg20150815_175534.jpg

Dirty and stuck "F" Relay:20150816_175554.jpg20150816_175554.jpg

A freshly cleaned and shiny "F" Relay board (mini-stepper):20150816_180302.jpg20150816_180302.jpg

Dirty PF:20150826_191921.jpg20150826_191921.jpg

#32 8 years ago

Continued:

Plastics on the wrong way (outsides) with the wrong rubber: 20150826_192009.jpg20150826_192009.jpg

PF view: 20150826_192039.jpg20150826_192039.jpg

Dirty PF close up:20150826_200635.jpg20150826_200635.jpg

Lower PF stripped (still dirty):20150826_200642.jpg20150826_200642.jpg

Upper PF stripped (in the process of cleaning, replacing bulbs): 20150827_002052.jpg20150827_002052.jpg

Plays great!

20150904_134408.jpg20150904_134408.jpg

#33 8 years ago

Oh, and I can't forget the score reels:
20150812_141312.jpg20150812_141312.jpg
20150812_141912.jpg20150812_141912.jpg
20150812_141919.jpg20150812_141919.jpg
20150812_144313.jpg20150812_144313.jpg
20150812_144329.jpg20150812_144329.jpg
20150813_101302.jpg20150813_101302.jpg
20150813_102248.jpg20150813_102248.jpg

#34 8 years ago

The method I learned for holding the gear / sprocket (?) and spring in place on the Nylon arm when replacing the reel:

First, put the gear and spring in the correct spot (teeth lined up correctly).
Next, use a finger to put pressure on the arm so the spring under the gear doesn't pop it off. Note: be careful not to press down on the 0 / 9 switches under your finger.
20150828_000016.jpg20150828_000016.jpg20150828_000030.jpg20150828_000030.jpg

Next, put the reel, bushing, contacts, circuit board, washer, and clip on while holding the pressure on the arm:
20150828_000213.jpg20150828_000213.jpg

Saved me from a lot of frustration - the spring kept popping the whole reel assembly up and out of place when I was trying to reassemble the things.

#35 8 years ago

Finally, here's a link to video of me playing a game - I still had some tweaks to do (sticking 9), but the machine went from not working to playable in my fumbling care. Thanks again, everyone!!!

#36 8 years ago
Quoted from Ramtuathal:

Finally, here's a link to video of me playing a game - I still had some tweaks to do (sticking 9), but the machine went from not working to playable in my fumbling care. Thanks again, everyone!!!
» YouTube video

Thanks for sharing! I also recently did a tune-up / shop / playfield touch-up on my Quick Draw (acquired a couple of months ago) and it's my favorite player in my small collection. Nice work!

#37 8 years ago

Thanks goldenboy232, it was a challenge, but a fun one.

2 weeks later
#38 8 years ago

do you have a chime unit connected to your machine

1 week later
#39 8 years ago

@Raff - Hey, sorry, I missed this forum update. Yes, the chime unti is connected now. Why do you ask?

#40 8 years ago

just sounds different to my quick draw

#41 8 years ago

@Raff: Ahh, right. I didn't have the chime unit connected when I made that video - forgot about that.

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The Flipper Room
Decorations

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