(Topic ID: 298930)

Gottlieb 1956 Scoreboard Pop Bumper lights are not fully lighting

By Segerfan

2 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by HowardR
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#1 2 years ago

My 1956 Gottlieb Scoreboard 4 player game pop bumper lights are not fully lighting up when activated. The top right bumper and lower left bumper lights are not lighting up fully I can see a faint glow on the filament when they should be on . It's probably a loose contact or bad solder from when I replaced them a year ago. I hadn.t noticed since I have been concentrating on the backboard lights lately and wasn't actually trying to play a game

#2 2 years ago

If some of the other 4 lights on this circuit have the same problem then this Make/Break switch on the Alternating relay (A) is the likely culprit.

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#3 2 years ago

also try wigging the lamps in the socket. Most common issue for dim lights is the sockets.

if wiggling makes the lamp bright and it feels loose in the socket, you can sometimes with lamp power off "hook" the center tab that contacts the lamp tip and bend it up to apply more pressure to the lamp. I often use a small allen wrench to get under the tab and pull it up.

if the socket is oxidized badly, it's probably easier to just replace it if a quick cleanup with wire-wheel-on-dremel doesn't fix it.

#4 2 years ago

…and/or melt on a little solder to the solder end of the bulb

#5 2 years ago

I believe you are correct HowardR .It looks like some corrosion on the switch

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#6 2 years ago

The lights are all working now except for the bottom pop bumper.

#7 2 years ago

The lights are all working now. Thanks for all your help HowardR Are all the pop bumpers supposed to stay illuminated tfduda ? The Change bonus stays illuminated all the time also. For some reason I thought the pop bumper light alternated when hit . It has been so long since everything has worked I'm not sure anymore. I think I do I have a problem with the A coil. The metal plate on the end doesn't move in and out and it get stuck and makes a loud buzzing sound until I raise the playfield and get it loose. Do I need to replace coil ?

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Segerfan:

Are all the pop bumpers supposed to stay illuminated

No they should alternate: 2 on and 2 off. See my post above: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-1956-scoreboard-pop-bumper-lights-are-not-fully-lighting#post-6450703

Quoted from Segerfan:

I think I do I have a problem with the A coil. The metal plate on the end doesn't move in and out and it get stuck and makes a loud buzzing sound until I raise the playfield and get it loose. Do I need to replace coil ?

You could swap it with one of the other eight R20-5 coils, or just jump it with Alligator clip jumper wires to see how it works with full power, from its Yellow-Black wire to the Red-White wire on the 15 amp fuse on the 25 volt circuit.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Segerfan:

The lights are all working now except for the bottom pop bumper.

Quoted from Segerfan:

Are all the pop bumpers supposed to stay illuminated tfduda ?

As HowardR says, the top four should alternate (as shown in the schematic he showed earlier). The bottom one though only illuminates at certain bonus values (I don’t recall exactly, but at something like every five steps or so—should be apparent on the schematic). And I believe the upper “change bonus” one is always lit.

#10 2 years ago

When I hooked the alligator clip to the coil it locked on. Pulled the plate in and buzzed loudly.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Segerfan:

When I hooked the alligator clip to the coil it locked on. Pulled the plate in and buzzed loudly.

So the coil is OK.

Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-big-shot-repair#post-6305153
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

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#12 2 years ago

There is a substance on one of the switches attached picture. I'm not sure what it is it is yellow looks like insulating foam. I think this is interfering with the movement

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#13 2 years ago

The make/break switch with the foam should look like the switch that’s in front of it on the other stack.

#14 2 years ago

The pop bumper lights are now alternating when the 1 point targets and the outside targets are hit between the pop bumpers. When the unlit pop bumpers are hit nothing happens. Is this the correct behavior for them ?

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Segerfan:

When the unlit pop bumpers are hit nothing happens

Are you sure? The Pop Bumper relays (P, F, and C) don't have any switches or other circuit elements that could be affected by the pop bumper lit/unlit state.

#16 2 years ago

The pop bumpers work.The lights on them don't come on when hit. They do when the targets on the sides are activated

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from Segerfan:

When the unlit pop bumpers are hit nothing happens

Quoted from HowardR:

Are you sure? The Pop Bumper relays (P, F, and C) don't have any switches or other circuit elements that could be affected by the pop bumper lit/unlit state.

Quoted from Segerfan:

The pop bumpers work.

Quoted from Segerfan:

The lights on them don't come on when hit

That might be correct behavior. The pop bumper lights are controlled by the Alternating relay (A), which is controlled by scoring 1 point.

See the schematic fragments I posted above:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-1956-scoreboard-pop-bumper-lights-are-not-fully-lighting#post-6450703
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-1956-scoreboard-pop-bumper-lights-are-not-fully-lighting#post-6455800

#18 2 years ago

Thanks, I thought that might be correct. I just wasn't sure. It seems like most everything is working for now.

1 week later
#19 2 years ago

I was trying to adjust one the switch because the pop bumper lights quit alternating and the lower left kick out light was not working. Now when the side targets are activated a coil locks on and won't stop . There is also a coil behind the backglass that is buzzing loudly and getting very hot and smells like it is burning. It is below the bell.

#20 2 years ago
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#21 2 years ago

This is usually caused by a stuck playfield switch

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