(Topic ID: 249142)

Gottlieb 1/4 amp SB fuse blowing


By Batcade

36 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by wiredoug
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 36 days ago

Hi all!
I have a 1980 Gottlieb Amazing Spider-Man that is blowing the 1/4A SB fuse when turned on. I have a brand new rotten dog power supply and determined that when only the A2 power supply is connected it does not blow. However, I have not yet got this game to boot so I am unsure where to test next. Could a bad MPU cause the display 1/4 amp fuse to blow?

Any help is much appreciated,
Thanks

Batcade

#2 36 days ago

Sounds like a dead short to me if you're saying it blows immediately when turned on.

#3 36 days ago
Quoted from RWH:

Sounds like a dead short to me if you're saying it blows immediately when turned on.

Well no, the displays light up for a few seconds and then go out (I am assuming at that point the fuse blows).

I have now confirmed it only blows when the A2-J3 connector is connected, but seems to me this is where the displays get their power from so that makes sense. I am just not sure how to diagnose this, I am assuming maybe a display is bad but not sure how to test a display?

#4 36 days ago

Read through the Pinwiki. Seems like you can disconnect the individual displays from the text over there.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Display_Power_Problems

#5 36 days ago

How do you verify the MPU is getting 5V? power supply is good but I wanted to test the cable connection but my alligator clips won’t fit into the connector pins.. is there a test point on the MPU I could check?

#6 36 days ago

To verify 5V at the CPU -- measure directly across capacitor C1 near J1.

But YeOldPinPlayer had the link to what you should be following.
Disconnect all displays - verify display 60V/42V outputs. Then install displays one at a time and re-verify voltages (turn machine off when pulling/installing plugs!). This should hopefully narrow things down.

#7 35 days ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

To verify 5V at the CPU -- measure directly across capacitor C1 near J1.
But YeOldPinPlayer had the link to what you should be following.
Disconnect all displays - verify display 60V/42V outputs. Then install displays one at a time and re-verify voltages (turn machine off when pulling/installing plugs!). This should hopefully narrow things down.

It’s wierd, I cant isolate a single display. The 1/4 A fuse only blows when all 4 displays are hooked up. P1 and P2 work, P3 and P4 work if all p1-p4 are plugged in, she blows.

#8 35 days ago

Have you tried having 3,4 and just either 1 or 2 alone? I would add 1 display at a time and see if any particular display blows when connected. Start with one and go from there.

#9 35 days ago

Okay, through trial and error, plugging only one display in at a time, I discovered two of the displays don't light up at all, and when one of those displays were plugged in with a working display the fuse blew. So I am going to consider the two displays that don't light up compromised (although this doesn't fee very scientific).

Ultimately I may have to source 4 all new displays (maybe new LED) so I can be sure they are okay.

Looks like my A2 to A1 power cable is toast as well, does anyone know where to source a new one?

#10 35 days ago

Okay now take one of the displays you know works and put it in each display spot one at a time 1,2,3,4 and see if it lights in all four positions. This will help eliminate the connectors to some degree as the problem. Look at the displays that don't work, notice any burn, check to see if solder is bridging any components, are they gassed out.

#11 35 days ago
Quoted from RWH:

Okay now take one of the displays you know works and put it in each display spot one at a time 1,2,3,4 and see if it lights in all four positions. This will help eliminate the connectors to some degree as the problem. Look at the displays that don't work, notice any burn, check to see if solder is bridging any components, are they gassed out.

Yep, they are not lit even when moved so it’s definately not a connector issue which would probably have been easier to fix vs sourcing new displays.

#12 35 days ago
Quoted from Batcade:

Yep, they are not lit even when moved so it’s definately not a connector issue which would probably have been easier to fix vs sourcing new displays.

The displays are not that difficult to get. Place a wanted ad here on the site and of coarse ebay is full of the them. Cost you around $38-$40.00 at most per/display.

Did you take a display that worked and check each position out??? If you move only one that does not light you will never be sure the connector is solid. If you did this sorry I sometimes over look things.

#13 35 days ago

Can you get to your diagnostics? If you can it would also help if you could put the two displays that light in 1,2 first and roll through the test. Your looking to see if any of the digits come up missing segments when it goes through the digit test; test both 1,2 and then 3,4. This will help rule out a bad chip on the MPU which if bad could cause the display to go out.

#14 35 days ago
Quoted from RWH:

Can you get to your diagnostics? If you can it would also help if you could put the two displays that light in 1,2 first and roll through the test. Your looking to see if any of the digits come up missing segments when it goes through the digit test; test both 1,2 and then 3,4. This will help rule out a bad chip on the MPU which if bad could cause the display to go out.

I haven’t been able to get 5V to the MPU yet, need to order a new VREG cable, would this affect the displays in terms of blowing the 1/4Amp fuse?

#15 35 days ago

I'm not sure so I don't want to give you bad info. You should visit the pinwiki site and read up on what you should check.

#16 35 days ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

To verify 5V at the CPU -- measure directly across capacitor C1 near J1.
But YeOldPinPlayer had the link to what you should be following.
Disconnect all displays - verify display 60V/42V outputs. Then install displays one at a time and re-verify voltages (turn machine off when pulling/installing plugs!). This should hopefully narrow things down.

Thanks,
Do you happen to sell the connectors for the A2-J2 to A1 cable? Specifically I think it is a 6 pin connector with one of the pins filled in to prevent the connector being installed in the wrong way?

#17 35 days ago

For System 80 --
J2 on the power supply requires a 6 pin plug with one keying pin at position 3
Couple options --
Molex 09-50-8061 with key 15-04-0297
or
Generic CS156-06-LR with key 15-04-0219

Contacts -- probably just go with 08-52-0113 for both plugs.

At CPU end -- 09-01-6051 (obsolete).
I have some remaining but there is a new Molex alternate for this one. I'll stock this one eventually.
For contacts -- 08-52-0072

For some of these - the connector bodies can be reused even if the original was an IDC type plug. Doesn't make much sense for the header type plugs (e.g. CS156) as the replacements are inexpensive. But for the edge connectors - we may need to go this route in the near future.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

Ed

#18 35 days ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

For System 80 --
J2 on the power supply requires a 6 pin plug with one keying pin at position 3
Couple options --
Molex 09-50-8061 with key 15-04-0297
or
Generic CS156-06-LR with key 15-04-0219
Contacts -- probably just go with 08-52-0113 for both plugs.
At CPU end -- 09-01-6051 (obsolete).
I have some remaining but there is a new Molex alternate for this one. I'll stock this one eventually.
For contacts -- 08-52-0072
For some of these - the connector bodies can be reused even if the original was an IDC type plug. Doesn't make much sense for the header type plugs (e.g. CS156) as the replacements are inexpensive. But for the edge connectors - we may need to go this route in the near future.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
Ed

Perfect, Thank you!

#19 34 days ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

For System 80 --
J2 on the power supply requires a 6 pin plug with one keying pin at position 3
Couple options --
Molex 09-50-8061 with key 15-04-0297
or
Generic CS156-06-LR with key 15-04-0219
Contacts -- probably just go with 08-52-0113 for both plugs.
At CPU end -- 09-01-6051 (obsolete).
I have some remaining but there is a new Molex alternate for this one. I'll stock this one eventually.
For contacts -- 08-52-0072
For some of these - the connector bodies can be reused even if the original was an IDC type plug. Doesn't make much sense for the header type plugs (e.g. CS156) as the replacements are inexpensive. But for the edge connectors - we may need to go this route in the near future.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
Ed

Hi Ed,
You mentioned "Contacts -- probably just go with 08-52-0113 for both plugs.", but I noticed on your website it says "Not for use with edge type connectors.", Can I indeed use these pins for the edge connector at MPU connection for 09-01-6051?

Could you also what the differences are between the trifurcon pins and the non trifurcon?

#20 34 days ago

Badly worded. I meant 08-52-0113 for either 09-50-8061 or CS156-06-LR.
08-52-0072 for 09-01-6051 edge connector.

Trifurcon has two extra tabs on the sides of the connectors that help center the center the post within the contact area and provide a bit of assistance in vibration prone environments.

For any of these connectors - you can also just go with 08-52-0072 flat contacts.

2 weeks later
#21 18 days ago

Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use to replace 24 pin and 19-pin molex edge connectors: 09-01-6241 & 09-01-6191? I've seen reference some people saying to reuse the original IDC connectors with new crimp pins, but I am uncertain how that would work.

#22 18 days ago

It works. But doesn't look pretty. Not any real choice as these connectors have pretty much become 'unobtainium'.

#23 12 days ago

Thanks Ed, I've seen somewhere online selling something called an AMP 19 pin edge connector using bi-furcated pins... would this work? How would the bifurcon pins work compare to the regular pins?

#24 12 days ago

My delemma is that my existing 19 pin and 24 pin housings are corroded to the point where it is quite difficult to get the pins out (the wires fall right off the pin) so there is nothing to use as leverage to yank the old pins out

#25 12 days ago

I don't see why the AMP versions won't work. Haven't ever tried it, though.
These are also obsolete in larger sizes and getting harder to find. I have some 24's left:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=128

Bifurcated contacts -- split down middle. Supposedly for use with surface areas that may not be perfectly flat (such as edge connectors).

1 week later
#26 3 days ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

I don't see why the AMP versions won't work. Haven't ever tried it, though.
These are also obsolete in larger sizes and getting harder to find. I have some 24's left:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=128
Bifurcated contacts -- split down middle. Supposedly for use with surface areas that may not be perfectly flat (such as edge connectors).

Hi Ed,
Trying to find 08-52-0072 on your site and it doesn't seem to show, are you all out of these now? Looks like you are out of the trifurcon ones as well?

#27 3 days ago
Quoted from Batcade:

My delemma is that my existing 19 pin and 24 pin housings are corroded to the point where it is quite difficult to get the pins out (the wires fall right off the pin) so there is nothing to use as leverage to yank the old pins out

dont pull them. push them out with a tiny flat screwriver. ( push the pin down first).

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