I believe there are relays for the base runners. They should be labeled. If you have ever adjusted EM relays, this should not be a tough fix. Definitely get the schematic! This is a fun game. I love the games with dual vari-targets!

Hmm. Well to start with, I would buy a switch adjuster tool from PBR. Basically the relays are coils with a bunch of normally closed and/or normally open switches on them. Some of the switches are supposed to be closed (touching) when the relay is "off" and open (not touching) when the relay is "on". These are called "normally closed" switches. "Normally open" switches are the opposite - not touching when the relay is off and touching when it is on. Over the years for various reasons the switches can get out of adjustment, have broken wires or be gunked up with dirt. There is a very fine line between a well adjusted switch and one that is non functional. We are talking a couple of millimeters. It takes a little practice. The relays can be removed from the mount to make it a little easier to see the contacts. It takes good eyes and good lighting. Always power off prior to adjusting switches.

Some relays like the Ax and Bx relays in the video below mechanically latch "on" with a coil pulse and then are turned off by a second coil. Most relays need to continuously energize the coil to stay "on".

Start reading and watching videos.

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

its 24/7 365 days here on EM tech support.

a question then some comments...

do the "1st and 3rd base" lights ever go out during gameplay? i.e. do the runners move around the bases? or do they always stay on?

based on what you've told us so far:

1) as john pointed out, the baserunners staying "on base" are likely the result of a misadjusted switch in a relay... these relays should be labeled... since the "2nd base" one appears to be working correctly, compare the other two relays to that one... also, you can manually actuate the relays and watch to see if the switch states change... IMPORTANT NOTE: not applicable to this case, since you have a switch that is stuck "closed", but for the future... although watching them change is useful, never assume that because a switch "appears to be closed" that it really is closed... all of us have been burnt by this...

2) the match always staying on the same number is indicating that the match unit isn't advancing... the match unit is tied to the "ones reel" advancing... i *believe* that an as stepper is used for the match unit in that game... this fix will either be "easy" (continuity broken) or "not so easy" (the as stepper is broken and needs to be rebuilt and adjusted)...

side note: if you are not familiar with em schematics, here is a thread where i described how i learned to read them... there is also a post in that thread that describes how pf switches interact with relays and the score motor...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-schematics-how-i-learned-maybe-it-will-help-others#post-1548629

So moving the plunger makes the relay change position? If so I am not sure why you think it is missing something. Sometimes they just get out of alignment or are not being fired. You can watch it while someone is playing a game and see if it is clicking and trying to turn as scores are counted.

cool, you got the baserunners taken care of...

i see you found my rebuild thread...

question: how did you advance the stepper to "8" instead of "2"? were you able to make the stepper advance (1 step at a time) by manually actuating it, or did you have to turn the gear by hand to move it?

have someone watch the stepper while you are playing the game... observe whether or not the coil fires...

if the coil fires, and it doesn't step, then you have to fix the stepper so that it "steps"... it is possible (probable) that the armature itself is broken... see two below pics...

broken armature... note that there is nothing to turn the gear...

image.jpg

new one...

image-356.jpg

if the coil does not fire, you have a continuity/switch issue... schematics time!!

find the 0-9 "coil" on the schematic (it could be labeled "match unit")... trace that back to what fires it... check the switches on this path to ensure they are opening/closing correctly... if all switches are "good", take a piece of wire with alligator clips on each end and start "jumping" the path... this will help you find where continuity is broken...

looks like it will clean up VERY nicely...

if it was me, i'd spring for a new set of flipper bats too...

Please excuse me if I'm barging in here but I have almost the same exact machine that also has a base runner problem. image.jpgimage.jpg
On my pin the runner(s) indicator lights are seldom in synch with the positions that the are actually in. For instance , sometimes I'll start the game and the indicator lights will show men on base when there shouldn't be. Other times the lights will read correctly. I've checked all switches , relays, and contacts and everything SEEMS to be working properly. Do either of you have an idea of how I can zero in on the problem ? Thanks for any help. Sorry to barge in , but our problems seem so identical that I hoped you wouldn't mind. image-614.jpg

Have the same game. Working on a couple issues and glad I read this thread. Could you give some detail on how you "bent" the metal plates? Are you talking about the spring tension plate that moves the switches? I have the same issue and any additional info you could provide would be awesome.

mschonbrun in post #9 you describe bending a bracket. I am having the same troubles you described but don't understand which bracket you are referring to. Can you describe in more detail or post a picture?

Thanks