(Topic ID: 208328)

Gotleib Jet Spin

By Jbelleville

6 years ago


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  • 20 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by MarkG
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#1 6 years ago

I just joined this forum because I ran across an old thread that described a problem very similar to what I'm having. I'm hoping that someone could point me in the right direction for the solution. I have a Gotleib Jet Spin. Here is what is going on. Several things weren't working well so I decided to go through the machine and clean everything thoroughly. I was very careful to disassemble, clean and reassemble every component. I had everything back together and turned on the machine and only the Game Over (Q), 1st Ball (U), and Tilt Hold (H) relays lock on. I double and triple checked every relay and switch in the entire game and all are clean and set up right. All switch blades are in the correct armature slots, making sure every contact makes or breaks like it should. Next I unplugged the top unit with the score reals, unplugged the game board, tilt switches and coin door to see if any of those were causing the problem. Essentially I have the bottom control board sitting outside by itself with nothing attached to it. I still have the same problem with those three relays. It's quite possible I overlooked something, but I can't figure out what. I did take apart the coin unit to clean it and I believe I put it back together right, but who knows. Could it be an issue there?

#2 6 years ago
Quoted from Jbelleville:

I had everything back together and turned on the machine and only the Game Over (Q), 1st Ball (U), and Tilt Hold (H) relays lock on.

Can you elaborate? Did these lock on just by turning on the power? Or did you try to start a game and then they locked on? What happens if there are credits on the game and you press the start button?

/Mark

#3 6 years ago

To accurately troubleshoot problems with the machine, you'll need to reassemble the machine so it is ready to start a game. When you power on a Gottlieb machine of this era, it will go into tilt mode and the lights would be on in the backbox and the coin door. Playfield lights would be off. With credits on the machine and pressing the credit/start button, the playfield lights would turn on and the score reels would start to reset. What you're describing is a "no start" issue when pressing the credit/start button. Do you have a schematic for the machine?

#4 6 years ago

May need to revise above... my Super Spin which is the two player version starts with lights on. No need to puch button or coin up. Thats older games so far as I know. Maybe 4 player is diff??

#5 6 years ago

It could have been a engineering change during the production of the machine. I had a Jet Spin many year ago, and when the machine was powered on, it woulld be in tilt mode with lights off on the playfield. Also, there could have been wiring modification by the operator. Hopefully, the OP will give us more details about the issue...

#6 6 years ago

When I power up my JS it shows "Game Over" and all lights are on, but as noted by fredsmythson, the game has to be together to troubleshoot. Here is the start up sequence:

JS (resized).jpgJS (resized).jpg

#7 6 years ago

Thanks to those who replied to my question. I did dawn on me the next day the the game probably needed to be together in order to accurately troubleshoot it. I'm new at this, but I do have a decent background in electricity and mechanics. I finally found the problem. The one of the switches on the score motor was just making contact with one of the metal disks. I found it by poking around the switches with a continuity tester. I figured something had to be shorted because these relays would energize as soon as I turned on the power switch. After making a few minor adjustments everything started working, almost. I can't get the ball count to go past 1. I have a Bally machine as well and it has a stepper unit for the ball count. For the life of me, I can't find a similar unit on the Gotleib machine. I don't have a manual or schematic and I plan on getting them, but for now, how do I troubleshoot a ball count problem?

#8 6 years ago

That’s a stepper that’s in the head if I remember right! Good on you for fixing it!

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from Jbelleville:

I can't get the ball count to go past 1. I have a Bally machine as well and it has a stepper unit for the ball count. For the life of me, I can't find a similar unit on the Gotleib machine. I don't have a manual or schematic and I plan on getting them, but for now, how do I troubleshoot a ball count problem?

Ball count and Player up are controlled by the Player unit. See the bottom right of this picture.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1290&picno=31136&zoom=1

You can diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires.

Pinball (resized).pngPinball (resized).png

#10 6 years ago

Those PUs are a bit tetchy. Make sure the rivets and contacts are nice and clean.

#11 6 years ago

A special thanks to those who uploaded some pics. I think they will be very helpful. I played around with it today and figured out how the ball count works. Now with the picture of a piece of the schematic and the operating instruction I may be able to trace the circuit down to which switch is not working properly. I definitely will be getting a full copy of the schematics soon. Trying to troubleshoot without it is very challenging. I have cleaned and polished every switch contact and rivet in this entire machine thinking that should clear up any electrical issues. Since dirty switch contacts are no longer an issue, the problem is finding which switch is not behaving and that has me stymied because I really inspected every switch after I cleaned it to make sure it was set to open or close properly. It was labor intensive but I figured once I got it done I shouldn't have electrical problems for some time. So much for that idea! By the way, there are several relays that make a lot of buzzing noise when energized. I'm pretty sure that's a sign of a weak solenoid. Anyone with advice on that?

#12 6 years ago

Buzzing solenoids can be maddening. Loose springs, not anchored solid in the plywood, mis-adjustment, loose/crooked coil, burnt coil. Mess on the face of the plate makes it pull in crooked when the coil is activated. Corroded/dirty coil sleeves. Weak connections on the coil.
Thats all I know about that.

#13 6 years ago

I think that covers it .... but maybe one addition. Probably not in this situation, but slightly mushroomed plungers or worn coil stops will do this to, but thats more of a flipper thing. Basically, they buzz because they cannot fully pull in, so basically anything holding it slightly open will cause it to buzz... this could be low supply or weak supply voltage/current... so seriously bad up stream switches could theoretically do this, but its not the first place I would look... depending on the game condition I suppose.

#14 6 years ago

I should have been more specific. The buzzing solenoids are Q,U, and R in particular. These are to relays in the bottom of the unit. Using the circuit diagram and the operating instruction someone provided I was able to trace the entire circuit and there are no problems with any of the switches, so I'm left with nothing other than these solenoids that maybe causing poor connections. I can get the player and ball count to work intermittently with no consistency. I'll have only one player up and when the ball drops back down it may advance to player 3 or to ball 2, random stuff that sort of thing, which could all be related to weak of fuzzy connections causing the motor to over-run. Literally, I can't find anything wrong with the switches/wiring. I'm going to next pull out one of the solenoids and do and Ohm's check and see what it is. If anyone has dealt with similar issues and has any advice, I'd be grateful to hear from you. Thanks.

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from Jbelleville:

I should have been more specific. The buzzing solenoids are Q,U, and R in particular. These are to relays in the bottom of the unit. Using the circuit diagram and the operating instruction someone provided I was able to trace the entire circuit and there are no problems with any of the switches, so I'm left with nothing other than these solenoids that maybe causing poor connections. I can get the player and ball count to work intermittently with no consistency. I'll have only one player up and when the ball drops back down it may advance to player 3 or to ball 2, random stuff that sort of thing, which could all be related to weak of fuzzy connections causing the motor to over-run. Literally, I can't find anything wrong with the switches/wiring. I'm going to next pull out one of the solenoids and do and Ohm's check and see what it is. If anyone has dealt with similar issues and has any advice, I'd be grateful to hear from you. Thanks.

Isnt Q the 1st ball relay? Like the hold relays these are on for extended periods and I always replace...

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from Jbelleville:

If anyone has dealt with similar issues and has any advice, I'd be grateful to hear from you. Thanks.

Pick one symptom at a time and work on that. Until you have more experience, only work on what's broken.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from Jbelleville:

The buzzing solenoids are Q,U, and R in particular. These are to relays in the bottom of the unit. Using the circuit diagram and the operating instruction someone provided I was able to trace the entire circuit and there are no problems with any of the switches, so I'm left with nothing other than these solenoids that maybe causing poor connections.

According to the schematic HowardR provided in reply #9 above the Q, U and R relays are not part of the Player Unit circuit so I don't think the buzzing relays are affecting it. While it's annoying, it's possible and maybe even likely that the buzzing relays are working just fine.

Quoted from Jbelleville:

I can get the player and ball count to work intermittently with no consistency. I'll have only one player up and when the ball drops back down it may advance to player 3 or to ball 2, random stuff that sort of thing, which could all be related to weak of fuzzy connections causing the motor to over-run. Literally, I can't find anything wrong with the switches/wiring.

How have you checked the switches and wiring? Visually? Continuity test on a meter? Resistance measurement on a meter?

An intermittently advancing Player Unit sounds like you have one or more switch issues in the circuit HowardR highlighted earlier. I'd be most suspicious of the highlighted circuit from the Coin Unit to the Motor 1A switch. For the Player Unit to advance from Player 1 ball 1 to Player 1 ball 2 for example, it needs to receive a pulse through each of the four switches between the Coin Unit and the P relay switch (Motor 2C, P4F, P3F and P2F). Issues in any of those four switches alone could explain what you're seeing.

#18 6 years ago

Thanks for everyone's help. The issues I'm finding now are switches that just need adjustment. I've been fixing them and clearing up some of the problems, but this problem with the ball count unit continues to elude me. I will check more switches later, but being I don't have schematics yet, does anyone know where to find P4F, P3F and P2F? Are they associated with the P relay? I have checked many switches with a continuity tester, however that can be tricky interpreting the reading when current can flow back through another closed switch to the other side of the switch I'm testing. I ran across a website with a lot of great information on repairing EM machines. There is a section on converting these noisy relays from AC to DC using diodes. This sounds like a good idea and it's supposed to quiet the buzzing. They may not be related to the problem I'm having, but I have almost everything else fixed at this point. I'm sure I'll get there eventually. This has been a great learning experience.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from Jbelleville:

does anyone know where to find P4F, P3F and P2F?

Pinball (resized).pngPinball (resized).png

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from Jbelleville:

I have checked many switches with a continuity tester, however that can be tricky interpreting the reading when current can flow back through another closed switch to the other side of the switch I'm testing.

Checking for continuity can be problematic as you described. Measuring resistance on your lowest range however should be more reliable. The resistance through a switch is usually just an ohm or two. The resistance through a coil is higher, more likely from 7-8 ohms to over 100. Assuming your probes are making good connections, perhaps with an alligator or spring clip, you should be able to probe across a switch and always see a different measurement between the open and closed positions.

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