I have owned a couple system 1's and am well versed in repairing them and making them reliable. However, there is one thing that has puzzled me with my Joker Poker.

When I turn it on, 90% of the time, it plays fine for hours and there are no problems at all.

However, when I put it in test mode, and when getting to test #12 ( the ALL LAMPS test), the Kings drop bank locks on immediately. I know that the drop target bank is controlled by a lamp driver (L17) from the MPU, which in turn powers the under playfiled mounted transistor. This is consistent and happens every single time.

So, does this happen by design?

The reason I ask is because according to all that I have read, the all lamps test would also include that L17 lamp driver which should in turn, power the under playfield transistor, and lock on the kings bank. Why in the hell would they design the game's lamp test to work like this?

If I go in to test my lamps and the kings bank locks as designed, it blows the 2AMP S.B. fuse under the playfield every time. Is there a common mod to keep this from happening besides the pull up resistor (which I have already added)?

Anyone?

I tested the A-18318 coil and got 4 ohms resistance. It is an original Got. coil/part. That reading is in line with the other A-18318 coils on the playfield that I also tested to be at 4 ohms.

Regarding the "game over relay" under the playfield. The coil for the target bank still locks on during lamp test, even though the G.O. relay coil is NOT pulling in. I believe that the test is designed to operate that way.

I got a reading of 32volts DC at all the coil lugs...

Say what?

I understand electrolytic capacitor but how do I connect it to the 24V power rail and what value should I use? There is currently no capacitor in that circuit that I can see.

My apologies but I took the previous readings with an analog meter.

Just now, I took much more accurate readings with a different digital meter and here is where I stand with this wacky system1 crap...

I took a reading of 30.5VDC on the red output wires marked with the (+) sign on the coil bridge.

I also took a reading of 28VAC from the AC transformer wire going in to that bridge.

There is absolutely NO electrolytic capacitor "added" anywhere in the entire game.

I seriously think that the incorrect bridge may be installed, but I don't know if I really care at this point. I put a 3AMP time delay fuse on the bank in question and the fuse no longer trips. No idea if going with a 3AMP is less safe or not but I know that the fuse will blow if the coil or transistor ever becomes shorted for much longer than the 5 second lamp test...