If everything else continues to work, but the sound died, a good starting point is to look for a blown fuse or loose connector. Don't know if you have a manual for your machine, but if you don't, search for your machine at ipdb.org and you will find a scanned copy of the manual there.

For some reason, people hate when someone adds a credit button to a machine. You could easily rig up the coin reject button to add a credit though, or even the game start button, and that wouldn't require drilling any holes.

Search this site for Vid's guide, and there's a "vids guide to restoring a playfield". Good stuff in there.

Congrats on your first pin!

There's a group deal on a Hakko pin on Pinside and many here really like that brand for soldering and desoldering irons and work. I have no idea what shipping might be like to the Netherlands, however.

For cleaning alone you might get tons of suggestions but Novus 1 for plastics is often suggested and some use it on a clean playfield to add a shine although it's not really a wax or adding much, if any playfield protection. Many good waxes will have Carnauba in it. I like P21S which is a German car wax often marketed to Mercedes, Porches and BMW owners. However it's expensive. But a little goes a long ways. Things you might need to look into would be parts such as switches, coils, and things that could need replacing but switches can come with many differences so don't just buy them w/o doing research on what ate most common or not working in your game. Same with coils. Replace the pinballs often and get good ones and check often for any pitting or scuff marks. Pinballs are cheap compared to damage old ones cause on a playfield.

What's with the upper PF having no artwork?

Forgot to mention pinrepair.com has some great information on repairs and restoration, etc.

Congrats for the game! Some opinions, use as you whish.

Get the game running and play! Replace those rubber rings, ball, burned lamps etc. If there is something broken, fix it, there is plenty of help in here. Just ask. Forget the playfield touchup, lower playfield has full plastic on it so no wear there but upper playfield has lost all of it's graphics? Either source better shape replacement or just clean/wax that and play 24/7. Make the flippers work proprely, rebuild those. Nothing is more annoying than play with pinball which has bad flippers. Also level game with precision. Little bit off to sideways can cause ball to travel in a way that is not intended = game is not playing as it should. Make the game "stand" correctly, weight must be divided to both front legs evenly (easy to test by just lifting game up a little bit from the front and slowly lowering it down to floor. Both front legs must meet the floor at the same time).

I would use Novus 2 as base cleaning prouct, easy to get from any pinball parts seller. But be careful, it can take some old paint with it if used to hard. Then use some wax, prefer hard carnauba-wax. Take the apron off and clean the ball through also, there is usually plenty of dirt under. Basic princible should be that everywhere that ball go touch, must be clean. This way game will survive longer without new overhaul. There are plenty of other chemicals also but novus2 is quite good. That can be used with the plastics also, it takes that nicotine off pretty well from the silkscreens. Novus also contains a little bit of wax so it will protect those parts a bit better than some other products. Also clean all metal-rails that ball is touching, that is the main reason for the black dust that will be found from the playfield after playing, metal ball scrubs that out from other metal parts. To shine those I have used Autosol Chrome Glans - very cheap and effective product to remove even rust from chromed parts (http://www.kgi.dk/product-5454-1512.php). Any auto parts store should have something similiar at their inventory.

Good luck!

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For soldering playfield parts (coils, diodes, etc.) 25 Watt Weller Professional. If you plan on doing board repair the Hakko 888D is a good choice. I would still buy the Weller since it's easier to work with under a playfield.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WP25-Professional-25Watts-Soldering/dp/B000B63BTU/ref=sr_1_5

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1

It's called "wear".

Congrats on your first pin. What a fun time.

Hey skahunter,

I know this is your first pin but a few questions? Have you been on Pinside long or are you new here? One great resource is Lloyd's Olson's tech page for later on as you have questions. He's excellent at tech and game fixes.

Are you skilled at soldering and desoldering?

Are you fairly well versed in basic electronics?

Do you already have many tools such as wire clippers, screwdrivers of various sizes, a multi-meter, a good magnetic device to pick up pesky screws and nuts etc that fall, and other things?

Not trying to scare you and you don't need all of these things right away and perhaps some not ever. It depends on how much work you plan to do on your own and if you get more pins later on.

I have a list of some things I've learned to do and not to do (very important) that I've learned sometimes with pain, angst but also some much help from the site. So that's why I'm asking as I don't want to send you info too basic for you or leave out ideas that could be helpful as you dive into your first pin.

Bulletproofing the electronics:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

Bringing the flippers up to date:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/11#post-1855100

That's not just wear, it's either a whitewood uppper, a proto game with a white wood upper or it was really worn and someone sanded it down to bear wood. Or they made their own upper playfield...

Holy cow, that must be some kind of record! Never seen wear that severe!

Yep, that's a lot of ware. Never seen so much bare wud.