Hey guys, been looking for a cyclone for a few years, finally found one at a decent price, good shape (cosmetically) and reasonable distance.

The good:
The playfield is in good condition, so is the cabinet.
Pretty much all switches register when depressed.
All boards are present, no acid damage to cpu.
Lighting all works, so does the mystery wheel thing.
Music and sounds work fine.

The Bad:

The ramps are a little busted up, still usable, but hopefully the repros will be available soon. I ordered protectors.

Top 2 displays are missing alot of segments.

Flipper coils are totally rigged.

No coils fire other than to put the little spook house target back up, that works fine.
But no other works, period.
Pop bumpers register, but don't pop, same with the slingshots.

I'm pretty sure the board has to go out for repair, which is ok, i budgeted in for that, but i'd prefer not to send it out, only to have it come back and get fried from poor wiring again.
Previous owner got it in a package deal, suggested the flipper coil was shot.

If i give the relay for the ferris wheel a little whack it starts turning.

Judging by a few of the rubbers and the ferris wheel belt, i'd say this machine hasn't been played in a long time.

I'm still learning how to read the manual diagrams, but i do have them.

Any help is appreciated.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/9779216766_9778969317_o.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7305/9779213806_76404a7715_b.jpg

I tried to upload a couple pics, let me know if it works right, not familiar with the pic posting method here.

_{Post edited by jcar302}

Thanks steve.

I checked all fuses for continuity (i'm an electrician), all where good. I will have to check to see if all the proper ones are in there.

Ordered new coils from marcos when i got the ramp protectors, did check part numbers though, just went by what marcos web page said they were.

Went through all the connectors already too.

Thanks for the replys,
I was hoping you seen the post viper, as for it would appear cyclone is your favorite, judging by all the posts i have read that you are involved in.
Cyclone is the game i really wanted, but when i got frustrated looking for one, i bought high speed to keep me busy.

Quick update.

After messing with the display connectors, it appear that the ribbon cable was the problem, i pulled it off slowly while watching the display, sure enough it lit up 100%, so i forced the cable back into the connector (not the board) and when it reseated, it is fully working, think i'll get a new cable, but for now, it's all good.

So i ran the tests.
All lights work.
Music works 100%
So do flashers
knocker in cabinet works, solenoid that kicks ball out to start game works, and spook house guy pops up.

I can start a game with the start button and depress switches imitating a game, just that nothing that needs to kick a ball out works, like the spook house ramp or slingshot lane, pop bumpers no work either.

During the self tests, i can feel a couple of them try and work (they are all free and smooth), but they don't really pop, more like just a short vibration.

I didn't test the power supply yet or aux driver, your terminology is still a bit ahead of my paygrade, Not sure what BR1 and BR2 is, didn't see them in schematics or on a board.

Which part of the power supply board is the output?

If i'm reading voltage right, the coils have 38 volts, not sure how to ground them out yet, don't want to make more problems.

I really do appreciate the help, my first game high speed was mostly board issues, so other than general maintenance and a few coil and switch repairs, i'm still kinda a newb.

Thanks Btw,
I found them, they are behind the speaker panel on the aux board, too tired to pull it out and test them tonight.

On another note, i realized why one of the relays on the aux board keep clicking, the computer must think the ball is in the shuttle and needs to be kicked out, i can feel the coil try over and over to kick it out, but no nearly enough power. If i trip a switch on the playfield it stops, i guess thinking the ball is in play.

I also tested all the coils, 3 of which register 13+ ohms, the rest are all under 5.
They are 26-1500. I even tried disconnecting them to test to make sure i wasn't mistaken.

Little by little, i'm starting to understand how this thing works.

Thanks mrjamma,
I actually got the display working by messing with the cable.

Thank you for dumbing it down for me, made a huge difference.

Ok, here's where i'm at:

During the tests you suggested, i decided to check voltage at both sides of all the fuses, turns out, f7 and f3 were blown. Still had continuity with my Meter, but no voltage on other side. When i knocked them around a bit, continuity went away. Probably should of gotten my real electrical continuity tester out of my van, never liked checking it with my MM.

So, i went and replaced f7 first, and bam, the boomerang kicker (in the spookhouse) and the one that kicks the ball out when it falls through the blue thing (sorry for description), both work now.

F5 is at 73v
F1 is at 38v
F7 (when fixed) had 27v
Didn't test F3, i was afraid to let it run that long, since it seem like it was going to short out.

Tested with 2 different testers, one that is auto and the other isn't. Numbers identical, only reason i said that is because it would appear these numbers are quite different from what you suggested so i wanted to be accurate, the auto tester is kinda complicated so i don't use it often.

Then i put the f3 fuse in.
When i turn the machine on, I can physically see the right side slingshot is firing and staying on and so is the lower pop bumper. I quickly turned it off, since i could tell it was going to blow the fuse again and even after a second or 2 i could smell the coils.

So everything works except:
Flippers (i know you said we will get to that)
Slingshots
Pop bumpers
When i add a fuse at f3, right slingshot comes on and stays on, so does lower pop bumper.
Checked continuity at all switches and it's fine (also scores fine if i manually depress each one)

I really appreciate the help, feels like i'm getting somewhere.

Oh and i reseated all the connectors on the aux board and all fuses appear to be of correct value (little more time consuming than i expected, really appreciate plug in colored fuses now)
Ordered a system 11 fuse kit, probably overpaid, but driving around to get these things gets old quick.

Also ordered a new ferris wheel motor, i could see it physically trying to start a few times (if i give it a push it will go) and seems like it has issues that burned a lead on the relay board.

One last thing, all three coils that read around 14ohms are 26-1500's.
Thanks,
Joe

Thanks viper,
I've been following that page he linked.
Not really trusting either of my testers, the craftsman does little to nothing when checking diodes (not sure if it really even can test diodes) and the autoranging meter takes so long to settle that my arm is worn out) i'll buy a new one today. Using 2 testers that give different readings is making me insane.

I did do the part where you jump Q8 to ground and nothing happened.

I have left the f3 fuse out since i can clearly tell with it in those coils are locked on and i can tell buy the playfield hum it's not good.

Any way to easily figure out what the proper wiring is for the flippers? They should come today or tomorrow so i can set them up. I usually can figure out how to read the schematics by comparing the drawing to the real thing, and work my way backwards, but the coils are so screwed up none of it makes sense to me. Is one upside down in my pic?

Lower jet is 4.1 ohms
Both slings are 14.xx

Thanks again,
Joe

Awesome, thanks for the pics, my coils will be here today, just wish i had some tip102's.
Radioshack only has 120's, i don't think i can get 102's locally.

Ya, i ordered some 102's, not going to rush it, i waited years for a cyclone, a few more days isn't much more.

Ok, Flippers rewired. Thanks for the pics, between the pics and the schematics i'm alot closer to understanding how they work. As an electrician, IMO it's not only important as to how something is wired, it's also important to know why it's wired, this way in the future i don't need so much help.

For simplicity's sake, the two wires that were junctioned i pulled out of the straps to get more wire and ran them directly to the coils.
Right side flipper coil (one that was upsidedown) was missing a ton of screws and was close to being frozen. All fixed.

Changed ferris wheel motor and added a jumper on the relay board because one trace was burnt to no continuity.
Been good so far.

Didn't get a new tester yet, but i did order tip102's, should be here tomorrow.

Things left to do:
Flippers still don't work
Slingshots don't work
Pop bumpers don't pop

Almost there, thanks for all the help.

Ok,
No clicks in game or diagnostic mode.
Did you want me to do more, or wait for the transistors to arrive?

I hope it's not one of the U chips, those look a litter tougher to solder.

The q67 looks to be available at radioshack.

The relay i'm pretty confused on what the replacement part is. Could you link me to one?
Appears to be 5amp, 6v, 4 pole (correct me if i'm wrong).
When i goto marco's, they have 2 that are close to that.

thanks,
Joe

Ok, here's the update.

While looking for a tester online (for reviews) i found the craftsman i have, so i downloaded the manual.

Now i understand diode testing, should of read the directions to begin with, because this tester does it, basically on the continuity setting.

So here's where i'm at.

Tested most of the tip's on the board, q77 appears to be good, but q79 does not. q79 is cleary cracked visibly.
Got to run out for a while, not totally understanding how to test q67 yet, but so far i put the ground to ground wiring on cabinet, and tested across, one leg gives continuity, one voltage and one nothing.

Sorry for not reading the manual,
Thanks for help,
Joe

Well, been screwing with this thing for a few hours.

Replaced q79 which was cracked, also replaced q67.

The others appear to test fine. My soldering skills aren't perfect so i'd rather not do unecessary soldering on the board if i can avoid it.

Couple things i notice:

With the game on (any mode), if i have the tester set to continuity, ground to strap, put lead on q67 between the top two prongs (essentially joining them), i can hear the relay come on and flippers work fine. I'm guessing q67 turns on the relay, so the issue is before q67?

Tester on continuity again, also on ground strap, if i touch it to q69 and q71 or the transistors above them on the left most lead, it will fire the slingshots.
Wouldn't this suggest that the problem is after the tip102's and 2n4401's?

Still when i put the fuse back in, the right slingshot and lower pop bumper lock up.

edit: After further inspection, the only coil still locked on when i put the fuse back in is the lower pop bumper.

Well, i gave up, sorta.
After changing all tips and 24401's that tested bad, and only getting the sling shot to stop being stuck on, i came up with a new plan.

Took my spare high speed original board that i had k's fix, put it back in high speed.
I then took the converted 11a out of high speed, swapped in the cyclone roms and i now have a 100% working cyclone.

Why didn't i come up with this plan originally? I thought you could go backwards with system 11 boards, not forward.

Thanks for all the help, it was a learning experience, i now know 1000 times more than a week ago.

BTW, with brand new rebuilt flippers, i can see how that ramp gets busted up. I also had the ball fly off the table multiple times from ricochets, even had it jump off the ramp into the top section.

I will send k's the original cyclone board to be fixed, this way i still have a spare (which obviously comes in handy).

Thanks again,
Joe

I had always thought that 11a was the most flexible, but i read that whole pin repair page and it says 11b is the most flexible.

My soldering has gotten better, but IMO, it wouldn't be wise for me to tackle those U chips just yet. The 2440's are pretty easy, the tip102's a bit tougher for me, i think because you have to get the hole really clean to fit those wide legs in there.

Having a spare board with system 11's seems to be key if you aren't an expert in board repair. This way there is no down time with broken machines.
Not that i "have" to have working machines, it's just that non working weighs on me to borderline obsession.