(Topic ID: 304236)

Gorgar with NMP Sensor drop targets reset issue

By Curt7284

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 14 days ago by frenchmarky
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There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 1 year ago

First and foremost I've been working through this issue with Bob Parvin the creator of the NMP sensors. I have to say he has fantastic customer service, replies fast to my emails and has been very helpful. I also believe in his product and unless I find concrete proof, I don't believe it's his sensor system thats causing this issue. I'm not one hundred percent sure if this issue existed when I still had the original horseshoe style drop target sensors but regardless the issue exists now. I just wanted to make a topic in an attempt to bring more minds into this and help me along the way. I've done a small amount of troubleshooting, but am relatively new and I want to learn as much as I can/do things myself.

I installed his sensors in both GOR and GAR drop target banks, The GOR bank operates 100% as it should. The GAR drop target bank is reseting prematurely activated by the lowest pop bumper. The problem seems to lie with G/A targets. If either one is up by itself or both up with the R down and the lowest pop bumper is activated then the drop target bank will reset.

I went through solenoid test mode and all the solenoids activate independently as they should and correspond to their number designation. I went through switch test mode and all switches register to their correct corresponding number. Then soon after that the GAR reset solenoid no longer activated. I went back into solenoid test and still the GAR solenoid is dead. I then went further into the diagnostic mode to 03 where I discovered the following stuck switches 44-GAR series, 21-GAR series, 19-O drop target, 41-G drop target, 42-A drop target 18-G drop target.

For information sake I just recently had the boards gone through, and in addition my drop target banks are removeable via molex connectors.

#2 1 year ago

Instruction Booklet Link https://www.ipdb.org/files/1062/Williams_1979_Gorgar_Instruction_Booklet.pdf

Manual with Schematics Link https://www.ipdb.org/files/1062/Gorgar_Manual.pdf

Pictures of the GAR Sensors

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#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Curt7284:

I then went further into the diagnostic mode to 03 where I discovered the following stuck switches 44-GAR series, 21-GAR series, 19-O drop target, 41-G drop target, 42-A drop target 18-G drop target.

Were the GO and GA drop targets infact down when you got this result?
If you do a continuity test of the blue reeds on the NMP board sitting on the bench, do any show zero ohms continuity? i.e. like they're reading as a closed switch?

On the lowest pop bumper, what switch(es) are reported in switch test mode when you close the pop bumper point score switch (not the spoon switch but the switch above it that the pop bumper activates for scoring)?

#4 1 year ago

I had this issue with my time warp. I had the wiring wrong. They would register but would not reset.

3 months later
#5 9 months ago

I have the same problem. GOR is fine.
But GAR works fine until you activate the lower pop bumper.
The lower pop bumper causes the GAR to reset every time...??? ODD.

Any further status update with this?
Can the original poster send a pic of the front of his GAR board with the Green/blue sensor strips?

#6 9 months ago

The problem is that the reed switches are activated by the magnetic field around the jet bumper solenoid when the bumper is activated. I replaced old drops in Gorgar (GAR was falsing,) and Flash, same result as OP. False scoring, false reset sometimes. I sent Bob video, but didn't hear anything back.

I cleaned up the old mechs, and installed new horseshoe contacts, so now these machines have reed switch (NMP Sensor) drops wherever they aren't near any solenoids, and they work great. Nice product, reasonable price, but does have that flaw.

Also had trouble keeping the magnets glued on (superglue), until I started using Gorilla Glue cyanoacrylate.

Rod

.

#7 9 months ago
Quoted from catvilledoorman:

The problem is that the reed switches are activated by the magnetic field around the jet bumper solenoid when the bumper is activated.

Is there any space to try and put a magnetic shield (metal plate) between the two as a test?

#8 8 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Is there any space to try and put a magnetic shield (metal plate) between the two as a test?

I just solved this with Mu Metal paper folded many times to block the magnetic field from the pop bumper. So far working fine for 4 days.
I placed it against the NMP board and wire tied it in. Not the prettiest, but it works. If I come up with a cleaner way, I would, but after hours of driving me nuts and finally figuring this out, I wanted to play it and do my playfield swap this week.
link to paper I bought:

amazon.com link »

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#9 8 months ago
Quoted from GameVault:

I just solved this with Mu Metal paper folded many times to block the magnetic field from the pop bumper. So far working fine for 4 days.

Great to hear! I see you did some research on the material to use
At least we know the concept of disturbing the magnetic field works.

#10 8 months ago
Quoted from catvilledoorman:I sent Bob video, but didn't hear anything back.

catvilledoorman, Did you send the video to Facebook or [email protected]? Facebook messages suck. Either way I didn’t get the message. Sorry.

I first became aware of this problem through Troxel who messaged me about the problem from GameVault. I don’t have a Gorgar game to test on but I’m happy to hear GameVault found a solution.

I just purchased some MuMetal and will be conducting some tests shortly. Perhaps wrapping the shield around the coil may be easier. I’d be interested to see if that works.

The strange part is I’m using the same sensors from the same manufacturer and the same vendor that I always have. I’ve sold at least two dozen sensors for Gorgar games and this is the first problem I’ve run across. I wonder if the newer coils are stronger. I’ll also check the sensors.

Please keep in touch and I’ll do the same.

Thank you.

#11 8 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

catvilledoorman, Did you send the video to Facebook or [email protected]? Facebook messages suck. Either way I didn’t get the message. Sorry.
I first became aware of this problem through Troxel who messaged me about the problem from GameVault. I don’t have a Gorgar game to test on but I’m happy to hear GameVault found a solution.
I just purchased some MuMetal and will be conducting some tests shortly. Perhaps wrapping the shield around the coil may be easier. I’d be interested to see if that works.
The strange part is I’m using the same sensors from the same manufacturer and the same vendor that I always have. I’ve sold at least two dozen sensors for Gorgar games and this is the first problem I’ve run across. I wonder if the newer coils are stronger. I’ll also check the sensors.
Please keep in touch and I’ll do the same.
Thank you.

Bob, if you can make a clean fix to mount mu metal to the sensors, I would like and buy it. Mine works, but is messy.

#12 8 months ago
Quoted from GameVault:

Bob, if you can make a clean fix to mount mu metal to the sensors, I would like and buy it. Mine works, but is messy.

Hey folks....so what GameVault did is correct...we deal in this phenomenon as part of our business....typically you don't have to go the extremes as GameVault did as generally a simple single layer will suffice (but can require 2 layers)....that said, proper magnetic shielding material is EXPENSIVE (as he found out) we sell EMR's MCF5 product (which is fantastic) by the inch if anyone requires some....this way 4in ($8.50) is a heck of a lot cheaper than 3ft ($33)... oldschoolbob drop me a line if you'd like to talk about this subject...

Matt
M&M Creations

#13 8 months ago

GameVault, I’m glad you said that. I’m still in the development stage but once I get something that I think will work I’d like to send it to you for beta testing (no charge).

Can you do me a favor and measure the distance from the pop bumper coil and the sensor board?

Here’s some shielding ideas I’ve come up with so far. The last photo is a shield for the coil.

I’ll keep you posted on my experiments.

shield 2 photo (resized).pngshield 1 photo (resized).pngshield 3 photo (resized).pngshield 4 photo (resized).png
#14 8 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

GameVault, I’m glad you said that. I’m still in the development stage but once I get something that I think will work I’d like to send it to you for beta testing (no charge).
Can you do me a favor and measure the distance from the pop bumper coil and the sensor board?
Here’s some shielding ideas I’ve come up with so far. The last photo is a shield for the coil.
I’ll keep you posted on my experiments.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

All 4 should work (though I suspect the coil one may be least likely)- thus it'll come down to simplest to cut and uses the least amount of material...remember there is no such thing as 'shielding' magnetism - that is actually impossible - you are simply diffusing it via the material.....I suspect the first should be your winner....just make sure it's a nice big rectangle....
Matt
M&M Creations

#15 8 months ago

Thanks Matt, I appreciate your input on this. I’m no expert with magnets and always learning something.

My first thought was to shield (diffuse) the coil but looking into this it would be the most difficult to build. The easiest to make is obviously the flat plate.

The way I understand a coils strongest magnetic field is from top to bottom. Therefore would curving or bending the metal on top and bottom help?

Thanks

Bob

#16 8 months ago

As for mounting a plate over the reed switches, maybe try regular old steel first and see if it does the job.

Perhaps this problem is made worse because that pop bumper coil is mounted facing the drop bank, instead of the pop bumper's frame. Or would that not really make much difference?

#17 8 months ago

Just installed a set of boards on my Gorgar and found this thread while searching for a solution to the same pop bumper reset issue.

I’d be interested in beta testing potential fixes as well Bob.

In the meantime I have some ideas I plan on testing out on my machine.

#18 8 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

As for mounting a plate over the reed switches, maybe try regular old steel first and see if it does the job.
Perhaps this problem is made worse because that pop bumper coil is mounted facing the drop bank, instead of the pop bumper's frame. Or would that not really make much difference?

Austenitic steel can at a proper thickness - but it's heavy and not necessarily cheap - the Ultraperm and MCF5 are easy to work with and micron's thin and do the job admirably....Bob's on the right track after some conversation - it'll be a relatively simple fix with the Ultraperm....

Matt
M&M Creations

#19 8 months ago

Guess it depends on how close the switches actually are to not being activated vs. activated by the pop coil. Is the magnetism totally overwhelming them, or is it just enough to always close them.

#20 8 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Is the magnetism totally overwhelming them, or is it just enough to always close them.

I’d guess just enough to always close some of them. The switches are in a line and the scoring ones aren’t all triggered by the pop, mostly the right most series (all down) switch.

Got a quick and dirty test done at lunch today. Tin can shield worked flawlessly, no pop induced resets. Proof of concept for Bob’s coil cover design? I plan on trying a simple strip of the same material over just the switches. Should be easier to mount and won’t trap heat in the coil if that’s a problem.

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#21 8 months ago

Here's a dumb magnetism question - would putting magnetic shielding around the pop coil, even just a tin can, affect it's stroke power in any way? None, some, negligible? Like, you know, could it suck up some of the magnetism that woulda gone to the solenoid?

#22 8 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Here's a dumb magnetism question - would putting magnetic shielding around the pop coil, even just a tin can, affect it's stroke power in any way? None, some, negligible? Like, you know, could it suck up some of the magnetism that woulda gone to the solenoid?

Nope...not at all...heat would be a bigger factor.

Matt

#23 8 months ago

Wow – talk about a nomination for the “Worst hack/repair you ever saw”. I LOVE IT!!!
Be careful with the edges of the metal – they can easily cut through the insulation of the wire and cause a short. I see you have covered the edges with electrical tape but it still worries me.

I’ve been collecting data with my gaussmeter. A single layer of .005 Ultraperm will reduce the magnetic strength by 28 percent. That’s probably all we need. Remember the magnet is only 1 inch from the sensor when in the up position and has no effect on the sensor. At the sensor I get a reading of .32 with the target up – and 9.76 with the target down. Just 1 inch makes a lot of difference.

At the center line of the coil I read 9.9 at 1/2 inch from the coil, 1.16 at 1 inch from the coil – and 0.33 at 1 ½ inches from the coil. The further from the coil the magnetic strength falls off rapidly. I don’t have a Gorgar to test and I don’t know the distance from the coil to the sensors. I’m guessing it’s over 1 ½ inch. Also I’ve been using a Stern game to test – the coil is the standard J26 – 1200.

Tomorrow I’m try a few more tests but I think what Matt suggested was the best idea yet. A single layer of Ultraperm held onto the sensors with double sided foam tape will probably work fine.

Hairball, I’ll get in touch with you shortly about beta testing. I’ll send you the materials.

Thanks

Bob

#24 8 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Wow – talk about a nomination for the “Worst hack/repair you ever saw”. I LOVE IT!!!
Be careful with the edges of the metal – they can easily cut through the insulation of the wire and cause a short. I see you have covered the edges with electrical tape but it still worries me.
I’ve been collecting data with my gaussmeter. A single layer of .005 Ultraperm will reduce the magnetic strength by 28 percent. That’s probably all we need. Remember the magnet is only 1 inch from the sensor when in the up position and has no effect on the sensor. At the sensor I get a reading of .32 with the target up – and 9.76 with the target down. Just 1 inch makes a lot of difference.
At the center line of the coil I read 9.9 at 1/2 inch from the coil, 1.16 at 1 inch from the coil – and 0.33 at 1 ½ inches from the coil. The further from the coil the magnetic strength falls off rapidly. I don’t have a Gorgar to test and I don’t know the distance from the coil to the sensors. I’m guessing it’s over 1 ½ inch. Also I’ve been using a Stern game to test – the coil is the standard J26 – 1200.
Tomorrow I’m try a few more tests but I think what Matt suggested was the best idea yet. A single layer of Ultraperm held onto the sensors with double sided foam tape will probably work fine.
Hairball, I’ll get in touch with you shortly about beta testing. I’ll send you the materials.
Thanks
Bob

Bingo!

Matt

#25 8 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Wow – talk about a nomination for the “Worst hack/repair you ever saw”. I LOVE IT!!!
Be careful with the edges of the metal – they can easily cut through the insulation of the wire and cause a short. I see you have covered the edges with electrical tape but it still worries me.

Hairball, I’ll get in touch with you shortly about beta testing. I’ll send you the materials.
Thanks
Bob

Hah! That’s the “fail fast and learn something” mentality I use on the job. Thanks for the concern but the can was only in the pin for a quick test to prove standard steel can do the job.

I’d be thrilled to test your solution as well.

After I get done with work for the day I can take some pics and measurements under the playfield if you are still looking for them.

#26 8 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Perhaps this problem is made worse because that pop bumper coil is mounted facing the drop bank, instead of the pop bumper's frame. Or would that not really make much difference?

The coil facing the sensors IS made worse. If they would have reversed the pop bumper bracket we probably would not be having this problem. I took some readings today and found tight to the back of the mounting bracket I got 1.03 – at ½ inch from the back I got .44 – at 1 inch I got .25. Compared to yesterdays reading there is much less magnetic pull on the back on the pop bumper. The metal bracket DOES shield the magnetic strength.

I attached a piece of Ultraperm (1 inch X 4 inches) to the sensors with double sided foam tape. I used a NMP5 so I could test the protected sensors and the unprotected sensors. When I passed the magnet over the protected sensors I had to get the magnet closer than 1/16 inch before the sensor would connect. Over the unprotected sensors I had to be above 5/8 inch before the sensor would disconnect.

Next I tested single and double layers of Ultraperm. It seems to have little to no difference. Even with a space between the layers of metal. I’m thinking a single layer would be sufficient. Of course size matters but I worry about the metal coming in contact with the wiring. I conducted my tests with the metal slightly above the wiring connections. See photo.

The next step will be “in game” testing. We’ll keep you posted.

IMG_8521 (resized).JPGIMG_8525 (resized).JPG
#27 8 months ago

As for the metal strip possibly shorting anything, how about sandwiching it between two strips of wide mylar clear shipping tape first, then trim off most of the edges of the tape so it's sealed beyond the edges. Sort of laminatin' it. Maybe two more layers of tape, but the stuff is pretty damn tough. Then use the foam tape or whatever you're using to apply it. No worry about shorting or wire rubbing or size/positioning of the strip.

#28 8 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

As for the metal strip possibly shorting anything, how about sandwiching it between two strips of wide mylar clear shipping tape first, then trim off most of the edges of the tape so it's sealed beyond the edges. Sort of laminatin' it. Maybe two more layers of tape, but the stuff is pretty damn tough. Then use the foam tape or whatever you're using to apply it. No worry about shorting or wire rubbing or size/positioning of the strip.

Yep. Use some readily available Kapton tape (found at Amazon)... lay the Ultraperm down on the Kapton- then the double sided tape atop the ultraperm...and trim...and voila' a tasty and nutritional magnetically shielded sandwich!

Matt
M&M Creations

#29 8 months ago

I have installed these on both a Flash and a Blackout. No issues.

I see that not everyone has the issue, was wondering if flipping the magnet over (changing N/S poles) would make a difference. was thinking the coil and the magnet may be amplifying the magnetic field

magic-how-do-they-work[1].gif
#30 8 months ago
Quoted from Chuck_Sherman:

I have installed these on both a Flash and a Blackout. No issues.
I see that not everyone has the issue, was wondering if flipping the magnet over (changing N/S poles) would make a difference. was thinking the coil and the magnet may be amplifying the magnetic field[quoted image]

Maybe not having problems in general but for this one bumper in Gorgar, looks to be a common issue reading above.

#31 8 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Maybe not having problems in general but for this one bumper in Gorgar, looks to be a common issue reading above.

Chuck may be on to something. I did check my database and I have sold 25 sensors for Gorgar. Gorgar is a very popular game. So far I am only aware of these three issues. Three issues in 25 games don’t seem to be a common problem. Also I’m wondering if a newer coil has any effect on the sensor.

#32 8 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Chuck may be on to something. I did check my database and I have sold 25 sensors for Gorgar. Gorgar is a very popular game. So far I am only aware of these three issues. Three issues in 25 games don’t seem to be a common problem. Also I’m wondering if a newer coil has any effect on the sensor.

All the above Bob.....sometimes people don't notice (but they will eventually), but primarily coils magnetic fields vary greatly ....when dealing with magnetism - you'll learn quickly that everything is possible- a lack of consistency is consistent....we have spent 3 years now running around driving ourselves mad with them....here's an example...we ran into a person (whom wasn't a customer) that has an original Cactus...which came with 4 or 5 OEM MRS'....it has an MRS that is in a location unlike any other pin (of the 7 they were stock in) - it was a wonder to us how it worked properly due to the metal and coils in proximity...needless to say - he bought the pin and noticed the MRS was false triggering (it wasn't apparent right away)...any way - no matter what MRS he put in there it triggered when the coils triggered....it is likely it had been that way for years...maybe always - but unless he changed out all his coils - we helped him shield it...but how was it of the 900 pins - his was the only one that did this....hard to say.....and so it goes!

Matt

1 week later
#33 8 months ago

Interesting/good thread. Appreciate the testing of potential solutions and I'm looking forward to seeing what works best.

#34 8 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

catvilledoorman, Did you send the video to Facebook or [email protected]? Facebook messages suck. Either way I didn’t get the message. Sorry.
I first became aware of this problem through Troxel who messaged me about the problem from GameVault. I don’t have a Gorgar game to test on but I’m happy to hear GameVault found a solution.
I just purchased some MuMetal and will be conducting some tests shortly. Perhaps wrapping the shield around the coil may be easier. I’d be interested to see if that works.
The strange part is I’m using the same sensors from the same manufacturer and the same vendor that I always have. I’ve sold at least two dozen sensors for Gorgar games and this is the first problem I’ve run across. I wonder if the newer coils are stronger. I’ll also check the sensors.
Please keep in touch and I’ll do the same.
Thank you.

I'm sorry for a disconnect in our messages. I tried several steel peices around the solenoid without any difference. The video should be in your rap4trains inbox; it was too big to send via email. Surely meant no negative critique of you or your product, just, for some reason we lost touch.
I am using the NMPs wherever I can, and happily.
Note to others, use good glue! Bob tipped me to Gorilla isocyanate, the "superglue" I used gave up and released the magets.

#35 8 months ago

Correction: The Invitation to view the video on my dropbox should be in your inbox!
My coil is a ways from the NMP switches, as you can see. If you wish, I can measure, and can check the solenoid spec, but think it's OEM.

#36 8 months ago

As for the superglue coming loose on the magnets - are you guys roughing up the surface of the magnet and the area on the target first before gluing?

#37 8 months ago

I don’t have a Gorgar game for testing but I sent off some samples to someone to test in his game. Early reports show a single layer of Ultraperm attached with double sided foam tape is working great. Full report and photos coming soon.

As for attaching magnets – the first game I used magnets and sensors was Disco Fever – that was about five years ago. I used epoxy to attach the magnets and they are still holding today. Followed by Flash and Blackout. All still holding fine. When I set up my test rig I used Gorilla super glue. I thought I could change magnets easier than epoxy. I broke the target trying to remove a magnet. Most super glues are too thin but Gorilla brand works great. Also I have never sanded or cleaned the surface before gluing.

#38 8 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

As for the superglue coming loose on the magnets - are you guys roughing up the surface of the magnet and the area on the target first before gluing?

I didn't, the glue was sticking to the target, but releasing from the magnets. I cleaned it all off, washed both pieces with alcohol, and reglued with Gorilla isocyanate, as Bob suggested. Works great. If you have the patience I'm sure epoxy would work as well. I highly recommend these boards.

#39 8 months ago
Quoted from Hairball:

Hah! That’s the “fail fast and learn something” mentality I use on the job. Thanks for the concern but the can was only in the pin for a quick test to prove standard steel can do the job.
I’d be thrilled to test your solution as well.
After I get done with work for the day I can take some pics and measurements under the playfield if you are still looking for them.

Hairball, did you have time to do your test with Gorgar?
I had the same problem on Flash and Gorgar- would love to hear how it works.
And have you wrapped the bumper coil instead of putting the shield on the board? I would worry about the close spacing of the drop and the switches, but I haven't tried the Ultraperm, (yet-soon!) so dunno, maybe it's too thin to interfere.

#40 8 months ago

catvilledoorman oldschoolbob

Full report as promised…

Bob was kind enough to send me two widths of ultraperm, cut to length with double sided foam tape attached.

I started with the narrowest one, holding it in place temporarily with electrical tape. Did some “glass off” testing trying to get the pop to reset the drop bank a dozen or so times. I wasn’t able to get the issue to occur so I buttoned the game up and played around 40 games with zero issues so I never even tried the wider Ultraperm piece. I suspect it would be fine but overkill. It was super simple using the adhesive foam to attach it permanently.

Looks like a simple and easy fix! Only thing I can see that may be a (very minor) issue is the shield covers the two board mounting holes in the top center. See yellow circled areas in the top pic for approximate locations. IMO those two screws could eliminated since the board is one piece and secured well enough by the remaining screws.

Thanks again for letting me be a Guinea pig (and get my game fixed sooner)

72712059-6667-4473-9FA1-5BB98E09331D (resized).jpeg8C9730C6-AB3B-4250-A577-4C856C30C935 (resized).jpeg

#41 8 months ago
Quoted from Hairball:

catvilledoorman oldschoolbob
Full report as promised…
Bob was kind enough to send me two widths of ultraperm, cut to length with double sided foam tape attached.
I started with the narrowest one, holding it in place temporarily with electrical tape. Did some “glass off” testing trying to get the pop to reset the drop bank a dozen or so times. I wasn’t able to get the issue to occur so I buttoned the game up and played around 40 games with zero issues so I never even tried the wider Ultraperm piece. I suspect it would be fine but overkill. It was super simple using the adhesive foam to attach it permanently.
Looks like a simple and easy fix! Only thing I can see that may be a (very minor) issue is the shield covers the two board mounting holes in the top center. See yellow circled areas in the top pic for approximate locations. IMO those two screws could eliminated since the board is one piece and secured well enough by the remaining screws.
Thanks again for letting me be a Guinea pig (and get my game fixed sooner)
[quoted image][quoted image]

As predicted....congrats Bob on a simple solution using the proper technique and materials....this is the way when it comes to magnetics....now adhesives and magnets - oh man, that is another facet to discuss - done quite a bit of testing there too!

#42 8 months ago

Great news! Thank you Hairball, great clear pics!
It is important to note that the shield is on the side facing the coil, not on the component side, covering the switches.
This stuff is spendy! I found it for 29 bucks for 8x5 sheets... anyone find a cheaper source?

#43 8 months ago
Quoted from catvilledoorman:

Great news! Thank you Hairball, great clear pics!
It is important to note that the shield is on the side facing the coil, not on the component side, covering the switches.

The component side is facing out in the pics so the shield is directly stuck to the blue reed switches.

Stealing a pic from one of Bob’s posts to illustrate:

3DA34FEB-5099-4585-A06A-84909949234C (resized).jpeg
#44 8 months ago

Ooops, well not the first time I goofed....sorry for the confusion!

Btw, in the old days (back in the last century ) vacuum tubes that were subject to induced hum from transformers or other noise sources were shielded by metal sleeves, that bayoneted onto a base on the chassis, and so grounded...I never thought about what they were made of but they worked.
Maybe a lower gauss field..

#45 8 months ago

Hairball,
Thank you for testing this – good job and great photos. Also thanks to everyone that had suggestions and comments – Especially Sonic. Your suggestions were very helpful. Your suggestion of keep it simple was the best solution.

My biggest concern is if anyone tries this solution to please be careful of the sharp edges of the metal. They will cut through the insulation of the wires and cause a short. They must be insulated. Perhaps a hemmed edge would help.

Catvilledoorman, Your correct, that stuff is expensive. I guess you found the same supplier as I found:

ebay.com link: itm

But talk about price increase – I got mine last month for $22.95. I’m searching for someplace to make these shields but it’s custom work and very small demand. Could be costly.

Capture (resized).png

Thanks again for your help.

2 weeks later
#46 7 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Chuck may be on to something. I did check my database and I have sold 25 sensors for Gorgar. Gorgar is a very popular game. So far I am only aware of these three issues. Three issues in 25 games don’t seem to be a common problem. Also I’m wondering if a newer coil has any effect on the sensor.

You can make it four :p mine only impacts the 'G' in "GAR" still way better than the damn horse shoe even with this annoyance. Anyone have a strip of ultraperm from stuff they've bought? Or should I start hunting for some?

#47 7 months ago

I haven't tried it yet but I wonder if a piece of metal flashing would do the same.
Any home construction going on in your area? Look around their building site for some scraps (1 inch X 4 inches)

#48 7 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

I haven't tried it yet but I wonder if a piece of metal flashing would do the same.
Any home construction going on in your area? Look around their building site for some scraps (1 inch X 4 inches)

I suggested that too, I don't have a Gorgar to test it on. I did once, but it was when Gorgar was only about 5 years old so the horseshoe switches were still pretty fresh.

#49 7 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

I haven't tried it yet but I wonder if a piece of metal flashing would do the same.
Any home construction going on in your area? Look around their building site for some scraps (1 inch X 4 inches)

Unlikely to work...it's all based upon the permeability of the metal...hit or miss...best to just get the right stuff for the job....

sparksterz we sell the stuff in strips if you don't want to buy a whole roll....just hit me up via PM...

Matt
M&M Creations

1 week later
#50 7 months ago

Has anyone tried this stuff by 3M? - 3M™ Flux Field Directional Materials EM80KM.

I noticed they didn't test Mu Metal.

It's expensive - $98.00 for 10 sheets - (8 x 2) inches.

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