I've owned my Gorgar for over 15 years with no problems. About 3 months ago each time we turn the game on the solenoid 2.5 fuse burns out within seconds. I've checked every solenoid and they are working. What should I be looking at now?

LTG - I pulled the connector 2J9 that covers solenoids 9-16, put a new fuse in and turned on the machine and the fuse blew about 20 seconds after which is slower than when its in. I then put 2J9 back in and pulled out 2J11 and the fuse burned out faster. Now I have 2J9 and 2J11 pulled out and the fuse has not burned, but that just shows its a solenoid problem, or is it? Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks in advance.

Cody, the fuse blows seconds after the game is turned on, usually right when the knocker hits. I checked that solenoid with my OHM meter and it is working.

Cody, you are right about that. If I cut the wires to the knocker will that effect the rest of the solenoids? I'm concerned, this solenoid has two reds attached as well as the blue brown wire.

Thanks all, I'll try tonight after work. Can I leave the reds on the solenoid or should I cut them off and tie together?

I cut the blue brown wire from the knocker and kept the two reds attached to the coil. It didn't work, burned through the fuse immediately. Should i have disconnected the two reds from the coil? I don't think its the knocker that goes off when I start the machine, its the ball release. I don't think I am tech savoy enough to get this working. One thing that is also happening when the fuse burns is half the display numbers go out. I've attached some pictures of the mechanics of the machine.

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Thanks Mof, I ordered the solenoid saver board, its scheduled to arrive on Friday. I'll let you know if it works.

Help!!!!

I received the solenoid saver bridge one day early and installed it, the 2.5sb solenoid fuse still blew, but the fuses on the bridge were fine. My son and I went through everything again and when we disconnect the 2J9 connector the 2.5sb fuse blows. When we disconnected the 2J11 connector (with the 2J9 back in place) the fuse does not blow. I thought the other night it blew under this condition, but it didn't tonight and we left it on. I tested all the solenoids on 2J11 except the magnet relay. That would be both sets of drop targets, the eject hole and ball eject. They all were reading about 4.5 ohms. I do not know how to test the magnet. For one its so far back and the wire connections are facing away I cannot get the multimeter leads to touch. The only other "solenoid" listed on 2J11 is the magnet lamps. How do I test the magnet and/or the magnet lamps to see if there is a short there?

Also, I have a really stupid question (hopefully I don't get a stupid response). Can I use the solenoid saver on 2J11? I wish I could, it seems that would solve the problem. The 2J11 connector doesn't have the same wire lineup as the special solenoid connector.

Any replies tonight would be greatly appreciated!

Schwaggs, thanks for the reply, after I can confirm that its not a solenoid on 2J11 I try your steps, but I don't know how to test transistors. Do I use a multimeter?

Thanks in advance to all.

UPDATE!

Schwaggs, last night I took off the driver board and re-seated the 40 pin connector and it WORKED!!! I was able to inspect and clean the whole board, something I would never have tried before. No more battery acid anywhere. My next project will be replacing the battery holder, I always wanted to do that an even purchased a new battery holder a couple of years ago. Thank you so much for the info!

GORGAR HURT NO MORE