Gorgar
Williams, 1979Well, I thought I had this problem eliminated *twice* by lengthy test periods but letting the game sit a few days and try again, the reset is back.
I tried some search terms but found nothing specifically for System 6 resets. Does this boardset have a couple of primary weak spots that cause dual flipper resets to check?
I have swapped the power supply from my firepower and the game still resets with flipX2. Any experienced advice?
THANKS!
Thanks for all the suggestions 
but the GG is now getting worse.
It wont even give you the time to hit the flippers. Now it says "Gorgar Speaks" and immediately resets by to attract. I have swapped the power supply from my firepower that had no issues resets (it just wouldn't boot at all).
The power cable has all trifurcons. The solenoid fuse is out. The flipper fuse is out. Same thing, resets.
Am I missing a trick somewhere?
Thanks for clicking.
You swapped the power supply and it wouldn't even boot?
What happened when you put the GG Power Supply in Firepower? Would it work just fine?
Just curious.
Had the same problem with my Firepower. If i hit both flippers it would almost always reset the game. I could hit the left flipper or right flipper individually many times with no reset.
Swapped in a spare working driver board and the problem went away. So in my case it was isolated to the driver board.
Replaced D1 (1N4001) and Q13 (2N4401) on the faulty driver board and that fixed my problem. No more resets. Its been running solid for over a month now.
p.s. both components tested good out of circuit on diode test. I guess one of them was failing under load.
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:You swapped the power supply and it wouldn't even boot?
What happened when you put the GG Power Supply in Firepower? Would it work just fine?
Just curious.
Thanks for the response. I swapped the power supplies maybe a couple of weeks ago. Firepower remained locked up tight with GG's PS and GG did the same start game hit both flippers to reset deal. Today it got worse just stepping through that scenario.
First, it started resetting after "Gorgar Speaks" about time when it fires the drop target reset coils. Now it barely finishes the quote before resets and after the reset the playfield lights are gone.
Pressing the diag button results in X2 BLINK X2 BLINK.
Quoted from tonyd2084:Had the same problem with my Firepower. If i hit both flippers it would almost always reset the game. I could hit the left flipper or right flipper individually many times with no reset.
Swapped in a spare working driver board and the problem went away. So in my case it was isolated to the driver board.
Replaced D1 (1N4001) and Q13 (2N4401) on the faulty driver board and that fixed my problem. No more resets. Its been running solid for over a month now.
p.s. both components tested good out of circuit on diode test. I guess one of them was failing under load.
Thanks for the info and diagram. Interesting...I looked at that relay because the resets "seemed" to coincide with it firing. And it is associated with the flippers that began the whole mess. You may be on to something here...
Well, D1/Q13 was a bust. It did get the game back to start game quote, reset targets and eject ball. Then you might get several flips with the right flipper, but the left is almost always 1-flip-reset.
For sure, both at the same time is a guaranteed reset.
I'm gonna put a new +5V filter cap in tomorrow night.
In the meantime...any ideas?
Test the two rectifying diodes on the power supply (these are the two large diodes on the lower right corner of the supply by the fuse.) Just fixed a Gorgar that was resetting, and one of those two diodes was shorted.
On williams s3-6, they only half wave rectified the AC power with two 4a1 diodes. (opposed to using a bridge rectiifer with full wave rectification.) If one of the diodes shorts, they you only get 1/4 wave rectification! there's no way the 18000 mfd cap can filter that enough, and though the game will boot and run, any flipper action will reset the CPU.
i know you said you changed the power supply, but that's where i would start. After checking those two diodes, i would replace the 18000 mfd filter cap (you can use 15000 mfd, but don't go lower than that.) Also of course check the flipper coils. Tug on the coil diodes and make sure they are not cracked/broken/missing. Also inspect the large square connector on the power supply, and the long .156" molex power supply connector at the top.
By the way, that post about the driver board flipper relay diode/transistor. That would be really weird if that had an effect. Yes the relay does run at 5 volts, but the relay coil is very high ohms, and it seems unlikely that would effect anything here. A more convincing idea may be that the bottom +5/ground connector on the driver board got reseated in the driver board removal, and that had an effect on the game's resets. Anyway, that's how it looks from the cheap seats...
Quoted from cfh:Test the two rectifying diodes on the power supply (these are the two large diodes on the lower left corner of the supply by the fuse.) Just fixed a Gorgar that was resetting, and one of those two diodes was shorted.
On williams s3-6, they only half wave rectified the AC power with two 4a1 diodes. (opposed to using a bridge rectiifer with full wave rectification.) If one of the diodes shorts, they you only get 1/4 wave rectification! there's no way the 18000 mfd cap can filter that enough, and though the game will boot and run, any flipper action will reset the CPU.
i know you said you changed the power supply, but that's where i would start. After checking those two diodes, i would replace the 18000 mfd filter cap (you can use 15000 mfd, but don't go lower than that.) Also of course check the flipper coils. Tug on the coil diodes and make sure they are not cracked/broken/missing. Also inspect the large square connector on the power supply, and the long .156" molex power supply connector at the top.
By the way, that post about the driver board flipper relay diode/transistor. That would be really weird if that had an effect. Yes the relay does run at 5 volts, but the relay coil is very high ohms, and it seems unlikely that would effect anything here. A more convincing idea may be that the bottom +5/ground connector on the driver board got reseated in the driver board removal, and that had an effect on the game's resets. Anyway, that's how it looks from the cheap seats...
Thanks for weighing in Clay. I am installing the filter cap tonight and will check what you suggest.
When I was fiddling last night I noticed at the instant of reboot, both CPU LEDs flashed once in unison.
Well, it looks like Clay wins the stuffed panda. Those rectifier diodes are trixy. The one on the right tested as a short...for a few seconds, until a cap started charging or discharging. Then the meter went to a voltage drop. Reverse the leads and again a short...for a few seconds then a climbing or dropping drop. Are you sure that diode was shorted? I got the same readings across C15.
Speaking of C15, I replaced it a few years ago with this guy
I didn't think it would be bad this soon, but it was suspect, so I pulled one lead and jumpered this beast in there
and no more resets! I remember buying the caps especially for these two games, but I didn't check their size when I bought them and boy was I surprised when I opened the box! They were so big I just put them aside and ordered these others. I guess all I can do is tie-wrap that sucker to the transformer grille. I don't care as long as my resets are eliminated.
Played a test game...300K+ 
OH! THAK YOU, CLAY!
Ok, my story was the same symptoms with a Blackout that I brought back from the dead.
In my case, the capacitor was fine, but on the power supply board, the two output connectors - nine and twelve pin, I believe, closest to F4, male end (on the power supply board) needed to be replaced. Got the parts from Great Plains Electronics.
I am pretty sure I re-flowed the solder joints on those guys before, but maybe it was just the age of the solder? Maybe the connectors just had it? I'm not sure. But putting them in completely fixed the double-flipper reset on my system 6.
In case anyone's wondering, I have a RottenDog MPU327 driver + MPU combo board, original sound board, original PSU board (reworked + 8A fuses from bridge rectifiers).
Thanks for this post!
@cody_chunn @cfh @tonyd2084 @meurah
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