Fort Walton Beach, FL
Not on power up but on game up my top pop number locks on. The wire is off now any help would be great
(Topic ID: 269038)
Linked Games
Gorgar
Williams, 1979
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A photo might be helpful. You mentioned via PM the other bumpers have multiple white wires and the top bumper only has one.
Quoted from BRIANPG:What am I checking in the switch 38?..
Checking to see if it’s stuck closed. It’s the switch that tells the pop bumper to activate.
Quoted from BRIANPG:Not on power up but on game up my top pop number locks on. The wire is off now any help would be great
Reconnect Coil and remove switch inputs at upper left driverboard connector.
Turn power on start a game check if coil still comes on
Yes? then there is a short on the driverboard.
s-l640 (resized).jpgIf it locks on only once you've started a game, it has something to do with the pop bumper switch as PINTEC is alluding to. Bad transistors will lock the coil on when you turn the game on, so your transistors should be ok. Continue following PINTEC's advice and you'll be up and flipping soon!
Quoted from BRIANPG:Ok I did just that. And yes it still locked on
Locks on after starting up game with disconnected special switch input:
Check Logic Signal IC 6 Pin 1 must be high.
Quoted from BRIANPG:Are you saying it should be high? What should I be reading on this. Thanks
This is confirmed using a Logic probe High should be very close around 5V of using a volt meter.
Looks like a fun, different enough version of Borg’s 3rd flipper Tron layout, which I thought was a must from John. I think another Borg fan would’ve gotten major flak from the community. I prefer the pro and premium art packages. The way the noses are drawn on the art packages is not my favorite animated style of the turtles; but overall it’s good with only the playfield a little underwhelming compared to Deadpool. Can’t wait to hear the sound package on Deadflip tonight. Hope it’s Jerry Thompson on sound, his sound effects are always stellar. Cowabunga to the TMNT fans, who should be psyched.
5 months later
Hi! I’m having the same issue at the moment.. maybe you can give me a hand.. if I do disconnect that top left molex for the switches my top bumper won’t lock on.. what would be my next step? The switch looks fine both contacts are open but still locking.. Thanks!
F3C5C561-FC83-434B-A24A-8768E793D13B (resized).jpeg 1 year later
Quoted from PINTEC:Reconnect Coil and remove switch inputs at upper left driverboard connector.
Turn power on start a game check if coil still comes on
Yes? then there is a short on the driverboard. [quoted image]
Gonna try this today.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Same problem. Top left.
Left Jet Bumper is switch 37. Does your switch test show switch 37 is closed?
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_3_-_7#Testing_the_Switch_Matrix
Quoted from PINTEC:Reconnect Coil and remove switch inputs at upper left driverboard connector.
Turn power on start a game check if coil still comes on
Yes? then there is a short on the driverboard. [quoted image]
OK I did this and it doesn’t lock on on game start. What next.
Gaborone
Quoted from Gorgar666:OK I did this and it doesn’t lock on on game start. What next.
Slide a business card or similar between the pop contacts and reconnect things - still OK?
In any case you have either a switch or wiring harness issue going by your results.
Quoted from pins4u:Slide a business card or similar between the pop contacts and reconnect things - still OK?
In any case you have either a switch or wiring harness issue going by your results.
Solenoid test fired good, switch test revealed 37 switch stuck. Snipped one leg off the Cap on the stack. Now everything is working perfectly. What’s the purpose of it anyway. I do feel like that Pop is a hair underpowered compared to the other two… thanks everyone! Solved!
Quoted from Gorgar666:Solenoid test fired good, switch test revealed 37 switch stuck. Snipped one leg off the Cap on the stack. Now everything is working perfectly. What’s the purpose of it anyway. I do feel like that Pop is a hair underpowered compared to the other two… thanks everyone! Solved!
The cap and resistor give a known length pulse to fire the coil. Without them you get a weak pop, fires only as long as the switch leaves are closed instead of the intended minimum. Unsolved! 
Time to replace them. Seems like the reason it locked on was the cap was shorted.
Quoted from slochar:The cap and resistor give a known length pulse to fire the coil. Without them you get a weak pop, fires only as long as the switch leaves are closed instead of the intended minimum. Unsolved!
Time to replace them. Seems like the reason it locked on was the cap was shorted.
Definitely will replace it. Thanks! 22uF looks like.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Definitely will replace it. Thanks! 22uF looks like.
22 uF 10v. I just ordered a bunch to redo my pops and slings.
Quoted from MisterScappy:22 uF 10v. I just ordered a bunch to redo my pops and slings.
Nice.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/3498499426859515/
Any pin post welcome! ….
10 months later
Calgary, AB
I am having some similar problems with my GorGar. I have restored most of the machine, I did send the boards out to be done. When I first reconnected everything it looked like I just had some switch tweaking to do as all was working well. Then the top right pop bumper locked on game start, I followed some of the recommendations on this an another thread. I removed that top left plug on the driver board, the pop bumper still locks on game up, I checked the switch on the pop bumper it seems fine (I did take the capacitor out of the equation as well) but the bumper is still locked on. Since its locking on game up and not power up can it still be a transistor issue? And If so how can I test the transistors to find out which one is faulty.
Quoted from LangdonFan:Since its locking on game up and not power up can it still be a transistor issue?
Not likely. Go into switch test and see if the switch is working there before you dig into further board work.
6 months later
Quoted from PINTEC:Reconnect Coil and remove switch inputs at upper left driverboard connector.
Turn power on start a game check if coil still comes on
Yes? then there is a short on the driverboard. [quoted image]
Sorry to bump an old post yet again, although it already has been resurrected a few times including recently from people having this issue.
I took this step to diagnose and after unplugging this and trying to start a game instead of starting a game normally it made two loud beeps and then starts a game in a weird state, ball in play says ball 2, has some points on the display already, and starts making strange noises. The bumper also still gets stuck on. Plugged it back in, same thing now happens every time I try to start a game. I double and triple checked to make sure I unplugged the correct thing, and I did. When it's unplugged the other bumpers don't work implying I did indeed unplug those switches, it just made all this other stuff happen too.
What could have happened here? I don't even know where to start.
Thanks!
Try these free test roms:
To get you running diagnostics right away you can buy this adapter as it comes preloaded with tests for all Williams system 3 through 7 games:
https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/
You can download the software and documentation from the top menu and read how to use it.
The board and included ROMs will help you diagnose everything, including faulty RAM and CMOS chips.
It was also designed and tested using a Gorgar
Craig
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