(Topic ID: 261627)

Gorgar keeps burning out bulbs

By nosmr2

4 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by nosmr2
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

I picked up a Gorgar in pretty good shape a few weeks ago. A handful of lights at the bottom of the playfield were not working; the shoot again, bonus when lit and the multipliers just above the flippers. I replaced all with LEDs and they burnt out in a few minutes. You could see the brightness in these fluctuating prior to sizzling and burning out.

I've cleaned the sockets, replaced the sockets, tested the diodes, tested voltage to those sockets (the same as the sockets that don't kill bulbs) and replaced with incandescent bulbs (those did last about 5 minutes.)

Any suggestions where to look at this point?

#2 4 years ago
Quoted from nosmr2:

Any suggestions where to look at this point?

Something shorting higher power to those sockets occasionally ? Might be hard to do, but get a meter on it when brightness sizzling happens and see what is going on.

LTG : )

#3 4 years ago

It takes a lot longer for a bulb to burn out while you're waiting for it. But it fluctuated between 7.2 and 9.2, sometimes spiking as high as 10 volts, then was 9.3 when it burnt out.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from nosmr2:

But it fluctuated between 7.2 and 9.2, sometimes spiking as high as 10 volts, then was 9.3 when it burnt out.

If you can't figure out where the spike is coming from, stick 12 volt leds in there.

LTG : )

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from nosmr2:

It takes a lot longer for a bulb to burn out while you're waiting for it.

If you could measure voltage at the board going to those sockets. Would help sort out board issue or something in the wiring to the sockets causing it.

LTG : )

#6 4 years ago

I removed the connector from the board and measured. Zero volts from the pin the yellow wire with brown stripe plugs in to. The other pins were around 5.5-6.

The PO installed the Rottendog board.

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#7 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If you can't figure out where the spike is coming from, stick 12 volt leds in there.
LTG : )

No luck with 12v LEDs, no light at all

#8 4 years ago

How do #44 and #47 incandescent lamps behave in the game with the Rottendog board?

#9 4 years ago

I’ve only put #47 bulbs in the sockets that I’m having issues with, not totally functional ones. The PO replaced everything with LEDs. So I’m not sure how they should perform.

3 burnt out in a couple of days, the others work intermittently in the sockets I’m trying to trouble shoot.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from MrBally:

How do #44 and #47 incandescent lamps behave in the game with the Rottendog board?

No issues at all on my Firepower.

#11 4 years ago

That voltage is too high. What is the voltage on your power supply at fuse F3?

-Hans

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

That voltage is too high. What is the voltage on your power supply at fuse F3?
-Hans

A steady 9.7

1 week later
#13 4 years ago

Spent a couple of hours today messing with this, but no luck.

Guess it’s time to call a professional.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

That voltage is too high. What is the voltage on your power supply at fuse F3?
-Hans

Schematic shows that's the +18v line which should be pulsed down by the lamp routines to about 6 volts.

9 volts out of it indicates to me perhaps that the bridge supplying this circuit is failing, or the connectors to it is.

#15 4 years ago

overly bright lamps that burn out quickly usually means a blown locked on column driver circuit. They strobe the 18v quickly to get a nominal 6v. When the column is locked on the lamp gets the full voltage.

On an original board I think it goes PIA -> 7408 (blanking)-> 2 transistor cascade -> lamp. Rottendog using mosfets the circuit may be much simpler. From the picture it looks like the PIA may be turning on the mosfet directly through a series resistor.

When I would fix I would pull the lamp fuse and go into lamp test. With a logic probe check the PIA port is pulsing. Check the 7408 output gate is pulsing. If either of those are not working right, replace the part not pulsing. If both the logic stuff looks good I replace both transistors.

Before powering back up inspect the playfield closely for things like a solenoid lug and GI lamp leaning onto a feature lamp. Also I have see a dangling ground braid flopping around in the head touch lamp sockets on the backbox door.

#16 4 years ago

Thanks for taking the time to write a thorough explanation. Unfortunately, those items are well above my skill set with electronics. I will be sure to pass those on to my repair guy.

Anyone know a repair guy in the Houston area?

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