(Topic ID: 5947)

Gorgar help!

By justjoe13

12 years ago


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  • 51 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by Prmailers
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There are 51 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 12 years ago

Hello all,
I am new to pins.. and 1979 Williams Gorgar is my first.. Pics are posted in the "All Pinball" section if interested here:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hello-all-first-pinball-gorgar

Now to my problems, after replacing a couple of fuses on my machine.. I have the machine almost working.. but the problem I am having now is with the Solenoids..

After looking at the fuses.. I noticed that there is a 2.5A fuse for the Solenoids.. it "Looked" OK.. but I ran a continuity tester on it, and it was blown! .. answering why the Solenoids are not working.. now, I replaced the fuse, not once, but twice with a 3A fuse.. and it still blew just after being turned on for a couple of seconds.

So, now the question is.. Why is it still blowing? is there something like a faulty bridge that is causing this? Please help! What do I need to do to get this working?

#2 12 years ago
Quoted from justjoe13:

What do I need to do to get this working?

Find out why the fuse is blowing, and fix it.

First, disconnect everything on that fuse from the board, put a new fuse in, and turn it on. If it blows when you do that, the problem is on the power board (could be a number of things, this is beyond my expertise).

If it doesn't blow when you have the solonoids disconnected, then there's a short in the wiring or within a solonoid that it's trying to fire on startup (not sure of Gorgar is supposed to do that - some pins will do that on start up, and many will do that if a switch is broken and tells the game the ball is somewhere it shouldn't be).
Depending on how the wiring is done in gorgar, it might be possible to reconnect the wiring harness, but disconnect all the solonoids from it (to tell you if the problem is with a solonoid or with the wiring harness).

#3 12 years ago

Second that about disconnecting wires and trying again. Take a good look and see if there is any wires touching that you can see. I have missed wires several times before I found the problem. Double check, do not assume something you looked at before is still good.

#4 12 years ago

You could have several things happening.

Did you replace that 40 pin interconnect yet?

Did you Ohm out your coils to see if there is one that is a direct short (less than 3 ohms)

Solenoids that lock on immediately upon startup is usually a bad signal path from the CPU to the driver board along that 40 pin interconnect. It could also be a bad capacitor on a coil, but if you haven't addressed that 40 pin yet we really can't drill down and figure out what the problem(s) is/are.

Also do not over fuse that solenoid circuit. Buy the proper 2.5 amp fuses, you'll do even more damage by over fusing and letting it blow.

#5 12 years ago

I will see about checking the coils.. I know that it has a "coin knocker" coil.. and who knows what else.. I know it has that Large Magnet at the top of the playfield.
I have the wiring diagrams and the operators manual now, those should help.
There are a couple of resistors that look "Burnt" and other questionable things.. I will try to check them and all of the wiring for past repairs.. which there might be some.

The 40 Pin Interconnect? that is the connection between the CPU and the Driver board?
Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

#6 12 years ago

Big Daddy or Great Plains Electronics have the 40 Pin interconnect parts.

#7 12 years ago

Should you replace the 40 pin just to replace? Mine in my gorgar seems fine. Is there any real benefit to replacing if it's working fine and there are no issues?

#8 12 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Should you replace the 40 pin just to replace? Mine in my gorgar seems fine. Is there any real benefit to replacing if it's working fine and there are no issues?

justjoe is having issues with his Gorgar and yes there are major benefits to replacing the 40 connector. I picked up a doa Gorgar and when I replaced the 40 pin connector most of the game started to work. Williams system 3-7 are widely known to have a major downfall...the 40 pin connector. Usually your problems will dissapear with a new male and female 40 pin connector. Just my experience and humble opinion.

#9 12 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Should you replace the 40 pin just to replace? Mine in my gorgar seems fine. Is there any real benefit to replacing if it's working fine and there are no issues?

If the machine is working without problems, of course not. Replacing it if the machine is OK is just poking a hornet nest. However, if you're having problems with the machine, it sounds like that 40-pin interconnect is the first thing to change out if it starts to look like a board issue.

#10 12 years ago

I've read that you can re-flow the 40 pin with a soldering iron and am about to do this on my Gorgar but perhaps new parts would be the better course to take?

#11 12 years ago

All I can tell you is is that it was a bitch getting the two boards separated via that 40 pin connector.. and the same when reattaching it. Go slow and be careful.

#12 12 years ago

The connector is rated for 25 matings. Vibration and age take its toll so yes if you are having odd problems, solenoid lockups, game resets, etc. It is better to replace the female side at a minimum. If the male pins do not have any acid damage from the batteries you can reflow the solder. Best practice is to remove all the old solder and apply 100% fresh. Then gently clean the male pins with 600 grit sandpaper to get them shiny again.

#13 12 years ago

OK.. just an update..
I was able to OHM out the solenoids.. and all checked out except for the credit knocker.. came out at like 1 ohm.. so I think it is pretty nasty.. You can see in the pic..

Then I went ahead and replaced the solenoid fuse with the 2.5a slow blow fuse.. and then unplugged the solenoids and then powered it up.. and nothing blew.. So.. it has to do with the solenoid(s)..
So, I just clipped the wires to the credit knocker, and will plug everything in and see what happens.. I will let you guys know.

DSC09359.JPGDSC09359.JPG

#14 12 years ago

That is one sweet ball holder. If you ever need to store a spare what other place would be better...oh, and yes, cut that thing out of there. Even it it wasn't burnt it sure is ugly...replace immediately.

#15 12 years ago

Good News Everyone!
Well, after clipping off the credit knocker coil (see pic above) and plugging in all of the connectors (I think).. I powered it up, and it did NOT pop a breaker.. which means that it was that nasty coil to make it flip out. I thought that it looked quite susspect.. but now I know for sure.
So.. Once I am able to get this bad boy all cleaned up and replace that coil.. will cross my fingers that it all works.. I did have some of the things on the right side of the playfield not "respond" during my testing.. but it looked like everything else worked, including the pop-bumpers and the drop targets reset.. etc. Which is great to have.
The ONE thing that I am really having a hard time with is with the "ball" switch when the ball is "out of play" at the bottom of the playfield.. HOW am I to get this to hit the switch and notify the CPU the ball is there?? It is soo sensitive, and I do not know how that little guy us to be wired.. if anyone could give me a pic or anything, it would be appreciated.
I will continue to keep everyone up to date on Gorgar's status.

#16 12 years ago

you want a photo of the ball outhole Sw?
showing contact ?

#17 12 years ago

I was cleaning Gorgar tonight.. and I looked at the "isles" and how they were triggered.. well, I figured it out.. somehow the "trigger" to engage the outhole was on the outside instead of inside.. once I positioned the "arm" to be closest to the underside of the playing field.. then pulling down to enable the switch.. That made sense.. just still learning these pinball things I tell ya..
Thanks for the offer for help!

On a positive note, I was able to clean up the legs.. and they look almost BRAND NEW!

#18 12 years ago

yeah you wont believe how legs can clean up until you try,
save yourself some dough

#19 12 years ago

I cannot believe how bad that coil looks. Did it smell burnt? It looks like it almost started a fire.

#20 12 years ago

Well, the thing is.. I think that this happened well before I got it.
So, good or bad, it did not look like it damaged anything around..

I will get a replacement coil soon.
Also, right about there on the machine (towards the coin door), it would appear that someone had a coke on the machine, and it spilled out onto the coin door area, and around that coil.. it looks REALLY NASTY.. I have cleaned almost all from above.. but this probably only happened about 14 years ago.. so it will be fun to deal with..
I wonder how many other pins people have acquired over the years have nasty stuff spilled on it??

#21 12 years ago

In the Knocker Coil pic , the bottom ball, isn't that where the tilt pendulum should be?

#22 12 years ago

I do not know.. but it wouldn't surprise me.. no tellin on a lot of this stuff..
I will have to look around and see if there are any loose wires or anthing that are hanging out.

#23 12 years ago

Yes, the tilt pendulum should be right there. That ball that's there shouldn't be there. But since it's disconnected, shouldn't cause any problems. I still need to connect the tilt pendulum which was totally missing on my machine.

#24 12 years ago

Two comments here...

First off, why was the game firing the credit knocker at start up? Does Gorgar fire all it's solonoids on startup or something? I didn't think any game did that - which means that the credit knocker drive transistor is stuck on, and needs to be replaced. It looks like that coil has spent a lot of time with that shorted on drive transistor, judging from that charring. In fact, the two problems are probably related - since it couldn't have kept the coil on after it was blowing hte fuse, the transistor must have failed first, and the coil sat there cooking until the insulation inside the coil failed.

Your tilt plumbob is missing. The wiring is intact, you just need the conical weight and the arm it swings from (then just take out the horribly weathered ball and hang the conical weight + arm from it, and you'll have a tilt, assuming there isn't a problem elsewhere with it)

#25 12 years ago

I just put the ball there to keep it out of the way.. perfect for it I think.. shame it shouldn't be there.. in fact, whomever was "playing" with the pin before I got it took the smaller pinball and tried to have it to be used on the playfield.. go figure.
Anyhow, I may just run without it.. unless I "NEED" it.

#26 12 years ago

technically speaking, you don't need it.

#27 12 years ago

You always need the tilt
even your best friend will have one too many and start abusing your pin
let him tilt and the rest of the gang bury his dumb ass for the victory

#28 12 years ago

Do you guys know if anyone sells that?
I have only been through a couple of sites with parts..
While I am at it, does anyone know what the part # is for the coil (credit knocker) and or the part # for the pendulum tilt?

#30 12 years ago

I'm pretty sure when I credit up a game, my gorgar fires all solenoids, including the knocker to start things up.

Makes sense too.. all drops have to be up, etc. Probably easier to just fire all coils instead of programming just the actual ones needed. Old system 6.

#31 12 years ago

So I finally got around to hooking up the tilt mech I bought for the Shuttle a while back (since we're talking about tilt mechs anyway), pretty much the last thing I wanted to do since it wasn't really "necessary" for gameplay. Hooked it up tonight.. and had a "wow" moment. When you tilt the machine it spells T-I-L-T on the white playfield inserts where it usually spells Space Shuttle in attract mode. Sweet. Just thought I'd share, totally wasn't expecting that.

#32 12 years ago

Yeah people forget that tilt is part of the game and designers put some time into it.
-that sounds cool Mystic

10 months later
#33 11 years ago

Since several Gorgar fans have given great advice I will throw my scenario I am having with my Gorgar. When I startup Gorgar speaks but I have no playfield lights or solenoids. Credit adds from 1 to 4 but then just sits there. If I take a ball and shoot it the scoring and sounds work but no playfield lights or solenoids. I turned the game on and with lifted playfield I tried all of the solenoids and I get a slight humm. HOWEVER on the top left jet bumper when I pulled it down (as if a ball hit it) it stayed down electrically. Could that be my problem? Any solutions? Thanks for the help. I am looking forward to hear the heartbeat!

#34 11 years ago
Quoted from justjoe13:

The ONE thing that I am really having a hard time with is with the "ball" switch when the ball is "out of play" at the bottom of the playfield.. HOW am I to get this to hit the switch and notify the CPU the ball is there?? It is soo sensitive, and I do not know how that little guy us to be wired.. if anyone could give me a pic or anything, it would be appreciated.
I will continue to keep everyone up to date on Gorgar's status.

Im having this exact problem, but it seems to happen after the game has been on and in play for a while. Is there such a thing as something warming up and causing the switch to not work? Intermittent problems are the worst.

#35 11 years ago
Quoted from Golgotha:

Since several Gorgar fans have given great advice I will throw my scenario I am having with my Gorgar. When I startup Gorgar speaks but I have no playfield lights or solenoids. Credit adds from 1 to 4 but then just sits there. If I take a ball and shoot it the scoring and sounds work but no playfield lights or solenoids. I turned the game on and with lifted playfield I tried all of the solenoids and I get a slight humm. HOWEVER on the top left jet bumper when I pulled it down (as if a ball hit it) it stayed down electrically. Could that be my problem? Any solutions? Thanks for the help. I am looking forward to hear the heartbeat!

First you have to check fuse F3 (lamps - 8A FB) on the power supply. If this fuse is blown you won't get lamps. If you put a new fuse in and it blows again (likely) then you have a problem you need to track down. For example, if you have a shorted lamp it will blow the lamp fuse.

If the jet bumper is firing, fuse F2 on the PS is good - the other jet bumpers should do the same thing when you press down on the wafer. The problem you have with the other solenoids not working is a wiring/driver board/interconnect issue. You can try reseating all the connectors in the backbox and see if that does the trick. Regardless you will likely need to reflow the solder to all the pins on the driver/CPU boards and perhaps replace the connectors on the wiring harness as well - it's the nature of the beast.

viperrwk

#36 11 years ago
Quoted from Acampero:

Im having this exact problem, but it seems to happen after the game has been on and in play for a while. Is there such a thing as something warming up and causing the switch to not work? Intermittent problems are the worst.

You could have a burnt/bad connector that as the game is on gets hot, builds more impedence and then eventually can't read the switch. When the machine isn't reading the switch, run the switch test, drop the ball into the outhole and see if it registers. If it doesn't turn the game off, let it sit for an hour, turn it on and run the same switch test again. If it reads the switch that time, you are probably in for a lot of connector rework...

viperrwk

#37 11 years ago

Reflowed solder on the board and all seems well. Looks like a cracked solder point was the culprit.

Gorgar back in business.

#38 11 years ago

My fuses are all good. If I short the solenoids to ground they fire but one jet bumper locks once it is energized. The other weird thing is that when I short the ball release kicker it energizes the funky jet bumper that locks on. What the heck. I did take the MPU and reflow. I have not yet done that to the driver board. I will try that now.

#39 11 years ago
Quoted from Golgotha:

I did take the MPU and reflow. I have not yet done that to the driver board. I will try that now.

Hope that's the culprit Golgotha. I'm still learning the ropes here so I don't have much to offer other than I can't believe how many intermittent problems seem to occur with cracked solder joints.

#40 11 years ago
Quoted from Golgotha:

My fuses are all good. If I short the solenoids to ground they fire but one jet bumper locks once it is energized. The other weird thing is that when I short the ball release kicker it energizes the funky jet bumper that locks on. What the heck. I did take the MPU and reflow. I have not yet done that to the driver board. I will try that now.

You need to also check the switch for that specific jet bumper and make sure it's adjusted properly since it's a special solenoid and not computer controlled. If it's locking on either on its own or when another coil fires it sounds like a switch problem.

viperrwk

1 month later
#41 11 years ago

OK. Time to revive an older thread..

Short version.. Gorgar is still not working properly.. and it is frustrating the #### out of me.

You see what the original problem was.. Solenoids.. thought that the credit knocker being shot was causing all of the problems.. well.. same thing.
All of the solenoids in the machine do not work.. other than the flipeprs.
Every time I replace the fuse for solenoids, it pops the fuse when I turn it on.
Oh yeah, and the sound has started to mess up also.

I will explain what we have done:
- Replaced that nasty Credit knocker coil with a brand new one
- Replaced the Main and driver boards with a Rotten Dog MPU/Driver combo board.. now we no longer have to worry about the 40 pin interconnect!!
- Repinned 160+ pins on the connectors.. fearing that the connections/connectors were at fault
- Just replaced the power supply with a Rotten dog Power supply.. again, fearing problems with the power supply..
- I went through, and checked the Ohm readings on the solenoids.. but they all test out at 0 ohms
- I tried following every wire on the machine.. looking for a short or something else. But other than 2 wires with some wire exposed.. (which I covered with electrical tape to not touch anything)..

- In the mean time I have rebuilt the flippers and the wife has cleaned up and waxed the playfield, and we have put 80% of the things back on the playfield.. but since it is not working and we want to replace all of the lamps with LED's the machine is waiting until all of the electronics are working again.

I am soo lost. I cannot see what is wrong.. I am soo close, and am tired it replaciing all the boards to still have the same issue..

Please help!!

#42 11 years ago

No help here, but I'm loving the fact you have Vash as you picture.

Trigun is one of my all time favorites

#43 11 years ago

Well if all your coils test at ZERO then they are all bad. Doubt that is it. Are you sure you are measuring them properly? You should see a reading of over 3 Ohms for a good coil.
Have you checked the switches for the pop bumpers. If they (or one of them) is installed improperly it can blow the fuse. The steel yoke on the pop bumper assy. can also crack in half and short a coil.
I have found these issues on a Flash and Blackout,one blew the fuse,othyer burned coil because it was overfused. 2.5 Amp SLOW BLOW(3 Amp(non slow blow) is completely different design) should be correct.

#44 11 years ago

Thanks..
Looks like I was measuring wrong.. Here is an update..

So, I checked the solenoids..(correct setting on the DMM this time).. and all checked out fine except the credit knocker again. I snipped the return wire.. and then it checked out at 4.0 ohms.. So I know it is not the new coil.. but it does have to do with the return path back possibly. So, I may have fried something on the new board.. ??? Gotta keep working on that, try to figure out what I ruined, and then check the bridge rectifiers.. and then see about that sound board..

Also..
I read some good repair guide PDF's.. and after reading those.. one of the "mistakes" was made.. which was, the connectors from the backbox to the cabinet/playfield were swapped.. black connector to whilte and vice versa.. and then the machine was powered on..
According to this guide:
"If these connectors are cross-connected, the solenoid voltage
(28 volts) will be applied to the +5 volt logic. This will instantly fry numerous chips on the CPU and driver boards, and even the sound board."
Uhm.. that happened on mine.. so the question is going to be, what did I fry? and can I "undo" the damage.

OOPS.. Soo I will check stuff out and then see where I am.. More work than I wanted. =(

#45 11 years ago

You should find a local place that repairs pinballs and take it to them some problems are best left to the experts and they usually only charge a couple hundred to get them going just make sure they are reputable some amusement companys will take on a repair just check around

#46 11 years ago

There is a Local person named "Pinsmith" in the area who is pretty reputable. I may just cut to the chase and get him out here to look at it.

#47 11 years ago

kind of sucks that you were so close and a simple mistake caused all this damage...good luck..and keep us updated..

#48 11 years ago

Thanks for the support.. and yeah, it does suck.. don't know how those plugs got swapped.. it is what it is.. will see about gettin someone in soon enough to look at it.. as I want my FIRST pinball machine purchased well over a year ago.. to be workin and enjoyable!.

1 week later
#49 11 years ago

Did you try putting the original boards back?

Might save you some time/$ vs. repurchasing if the new ones are fried.

Just a thought.

1 week later
#50 11 years ago

Good news everyone that posted to help out... Gorgar Speaks again and all of his Solenoids are working again.

I decided to bite the bullet (which I should have done before) and had a local guy named "Even Smith" Aka Pinsmith, come out and look at Gorgar.. and he got it working after spending close to 3 hours on it.
I cannot go through everything.. but here are the highlights..

1. Something had failed as far as a wire to a coil somewhere that was causing it to "flip out", I think it was one of the slingshots.. cable looked OK, but there was a wire strand that was causing a problem, re-soldered that to help. Also part on the MPU needed to be replaced regarding the Credit knocker.
2. The replacement coil I put in place was wired backwards (I didn't look at the resistor and look for the stripe.. + is on the side with the stripe). Hooked it up again properly.
3. Rotten Dog power supply I had gotten did not fit the factory location (or so I thought).. so I moved brackets. Bad idea (Don't do that).. orientation of the board with the old brackets that I moved caused a short! Moved the brackets back to the original location and then turned the power supply board 90 degrees to one side, and 4 holes magically lined up! What a concept. and nothing bad touched.
4. Sound was not working properly, (so much wrong here)..
thought that was because I swapped black and white connectors going to the cabinet.. well,
A.) The sound and additional sound cards were only secured in place with 1 screw (as was stated before, maybe I can find a pic) Anyhow, the way that the bracket (which looked like it was for a system 4 sound card and not a System 6 and voice sound card) was making contact with something it should not have. and B.) When I re-pinned the sound card, I missed a pin. pin#6 was unused, moved it to #7, then created stand off with hollow tubes to raise it up.

There was probably other things.. but after all of that, I did not have to replace and sound or anything. Sheeeeesh. What a day. But Gorgar is working again.

I was going to LED out the GI, but decided that #47's look too nice, and it will never be on long enough to cause an issue, and #47's are cheap enough. But I will place colored Frosted LED's under the playfield, where I think makes the biggest difference, especially for any inserts that appear "faded" like Red ones around Gorgar on the Playfield.

I will try to post pics soon.. but Mystery Solved!

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