(Topic ID: 210492)

Gorgar drop targets are the bane of my existence


By BRW84

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by tullster
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

The lower bank of drop targets (G-A-R) on my Gorgar machine have been a constant, recurring problem. The upper bank (G-O-R) work perfectly (or at least close enough). I’m guessing the lower bank have more issues because they’re hit more often and they’re hit straight-on as opposed to at an angle. Essentially, over time, one or more of the targets will either stop dropping smoothly, stop registering when it does drop, or both. A friend and fellow Pinsider who knows way more about the tech end than I do has been helping me work on them, and I’ve personally taken the drop target assembly apart more times than I can count. The problem seems to be with the horseshoe contacts, which is admittedly a bad design. If you bend the contacts too much, the targets have too much resistance to drop, but if you don’t bend them enough, they don’t register. We can take the assembly apart and re-bend the contacts and it will work perfectly for about 2-3 weeks, and then they’ll start acting up again. I know that one Pinsider was working on a new kind of switch mechanism to replace these horseshoe contacts, but the last I heard the project had stalled out. We’ve even tried shaving down the lip on the front of the targets, which did seem to help, but the problem has started up again. Does anyone have any alternate solutions to suggest? I’m willing to try just about anything at this point.

#2 1 year ago

Patience, and a little Teflon lube. The design sucks butt cheeks, but I’ve found that a very ultra thin layer of Teflon lube gel on the PCB portion will let you get a little more tension on the horseshoes. Make sure you polish the face up as well as you can first though (brasso or Mother’s Mag Polish works well).

Also, make sure that your PCB boards haven’t worn the copper traces away.

Good luck! I’ve pretty much accepted the fact that they won’t always score properly. But as long as they reset when all hit down, I’m ok with that.

#3 1 year ago

What mbaumle said. You can buy new shoes and pcb boards if need be. I did mine this way and have not had to adjust them yet its been over a year now.

#4 1 year ago

Oh no. I’m having the same issue with my G-A-R targets and was just about to break it all apart to clean everything and see what needs tweaking.

Especially the G and R, they sometimes don’t fall all the way and then you need to either kick the ball up in the pops or just flip a lot to cause enough vibration to have them fall and register. Agreed on the horseshoe design being crap. Rebuilding my disco fever drops was a pain and broke two contacts in the process.

Looking forward to this even less now...

#5 1 year ago

Those horseshoe drops are a PITA. I had a Flash and it was a constant struggle to get them to drop, score and reset. There was a guy years back that was looking into a kit or something that would replace the circuit board with a more modern opto arrangement. Not sure whatever happened to that project...

#6 1 year ago

Don't know if this helps, but these were done to replace the System 3 - 6 drop boards:

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=21&controller=product&id_lang=1

#7 1 year ago

mbaumle I appreciate the suggestion! I'll give it a shot. I forgot to mention that we replaced the horseshoes and the PCBs a few months ago. This design really is a nightmare.

#8 1 year ago

To clarify, are you saying to put the Teflon on the copper traces of the board or on the sides of the target?
I just readjusted my targets yesterday so the pain is still fresh in my mind but they are working fine at the moment. Actually had a broken diode on my upper R that was causing the target not to score even though it would give credit for all 3 and reset correctly.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from boscokid:

To clarify, are you saying to put the Teflon on the copper traces of the board or on the sides of the target?

On the copper traces of the PCB--but only a very thin layer. It's kinda the same principle of smearing the same stuff on the stepper units of an EM. Super thin layers just to keep the wear down, and everything operating smoothly. Using teflon lube keeps dirt from sticking and getting everything gunked up.

#10 1 year ago

My drops worked terrible so I applied some of this PBR grease... they have worked flawlessly for the past year. I only added a small amount to each drop. Pinball Resource has it and they recommended it when I was explaining my situation...

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#11 1 year ago

I once heard deoxit could be a help for these targets.
-mof

#12 1 year ago

On my old horsehoe drops (several examples of Gorgar, Alien Poker, Blackout) I always had them working fairly reliably with the following steps:

1. Clean contacts using Wenol metal polish (red tube) - it cuts through any tarnish and crud without having to get rough with the contacts, plus has a preservative effect.
2. Spray circuit board contact paths with DeOxit.
3. Replace damaged sliders with ones pirated from later drop target assemblies - they're the same piece but the screw holes that are used with the horseshoe boards have not been used, so they're pristine.

Richard

#13 1 year ago

A little graphite powder on the mechanisms helps as well. It will not gum up. I also use very fine steel wool to polish the contacts on the horseshoe contacts and the boards.

#14 1 year ago

I'm going to run some experiments this weekend... thanks for the input, everybody!

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Good luck! I’ve pretty much accepted the fact that they won’t always score properly. But as long as they reset when all hit down, I’m ok with that.

Yup. This is the ultimate goal and only hopeful result for these games.

I was pretty proud of myself for making a Stellar Wars where they all scored and all reset!! But for how long....

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

On the copper traces of the PCB--but only a very thin layer. It's kinda the same principle of smearing the same stuff on the stepper units of an EM. Super thin layers just to keep the wear down, and everything operating smoothly. Using teflon lube keeps dirt from sticking and getting everything gunked up.

The lube is the key. A good dielectric synthetic grease and you should be good to go

#17 1 year ago

I installed some brand new Gorgar drop targets that wouldn't drop. Cleaned the contacts, etc, etc, but didn't have any lube I trusted. I did have some little 4mm washers and installed a pair on each screw between the plastic guide and the lower metal bar to give the drops a little slop. Works great so far.

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