(Topic ID: 62108)

GORGAR CLUB: Members Only! *THE EVIL PINBALL THAT EATS SOULS*

By Jared

10 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ballykiss1978.
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#1115 3 years ago

Finally found my grail pin. Started repairs on cabinet and stripping playfield. I will give a thorough cleaning and clear coat. Will paint cabinet also. Seller brought it from San Diego to me in Arizona.

He has family 14 minutes from me and was really cool to do it free of charge. Soundboard rebuilt and he repaired all drop target boards. Will get new ones from Marco since cheap. It also has a new backglass and Comet LEDs.

Couple questions. What’s a good speaker upgrade for it? I was thinking about this one, but don’t want to risk damaging soundboard. Found this newer version from post here 6 years ago. Pyramid 8” 8ohm 200 watt subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEP1C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1

It came with a Rottendog combo MPU/Driver board. Seller says when the magnet is released the pop bumpers and slings activate. Is this a normal quirk? He tried to figure out a fix but no luck?

Appreciate any help and can’t wait to finish Gorgar and get playing. Will go next to my Stern Dracula.
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#1118 3 years ago

Couple questions. What’s a good speaker upgrade for it? I was thinking about this one, but don’t want to risk damaging soundboard. Found this newer version from post here 6 years ago. Pyramid 8” 8ohm 200 watt subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEP1C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1

It came with a Rottendog combo MPU/Driver board. Seller says when the magnet is released the pop bumpers and slings activate. Is this a normal quirk? He tried to figure out a fix but no luck?

Appreciate any help

#1121 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Or does anyone know how to repair plastics? That tiny little ear broke off.

Use gorilla glue

#1122 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Not a normal quirk that I know of!
I think that’s the same (newer version) speaker I put in Gorgar. Sounds amazing.

The board in it is the 374-4 from 2018. I emailed Jim at Rottendog and hopefully he has an answer. Don’t want to buy another board since I just bought Gorgar. Not a huge problem, but it will really annoy me.

Thanks for your input on the speaker. Will go ahead and pick it up. Thanks so much!

#1123 3 years ago

Going through my Gorgar and found 2 wires that were not soldered on. Both red wires, one for pop bumper and one for a sling shot coil. Hopefully that may be the culprit of pop bumpers and sling shots triggering when magnet is released.

Cleaning and getting playfield ready for clear coat. Will update.

1 week later
#1131 3 years ago

Started restoration. Playfield clear coated.Pinball Pimp Stencils should arrive on Monday hopefully, but priority mail has sucked as of late. Pinball Life order will be here Monday also.Can’t wait to get Gorgar done and finally play my grail pin.

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#1134 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Super excited for you!

Thanks! Me to!! Too bad it’s been on average 115 degrees here in Arizona

#1139 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Isn’t Gorgar Mono sound? How can you add the 2nd Woofer. I’ll do it! Please explain...

I will run the sub and mid speaker a parallel circuit or chained together.

#1140 3 years ago

Playfield all done. Just have one drop target to adjust that isn’t going down well. Pinball Pimp stencils due to arrive tomorrow.

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#1143 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Stripped down the whole front of the playfield today.
Big props to the people who recommended insulation foam board. I have no idea where I would've put everything otherwise.
[quoted image]
Only thing I couldn't figure out...how the hell do you remove these?!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Otherwise...ready to start transferring:
[quoted image]
Any recommendations on how to approach it next? The ground strap on the other one looks REALLY_ tight. Such that I would think I need to get that down first, but it looks very dependent on the final positioning of everything.

I would buy new wire.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball/00662-18ga-stranded-tinned-bare-wire

Put the new wire down and then do a direct transfer. Take plenty of pics for reference. Do not trust your memory or finding pics on line. When labeling I used different colors of 1/4 electrical tape I had or painters tape and then numbered the wires when I used painters tape.

I would transfer one wire harness and all connected to it, disconnect it and transferred to the new playfield. I did that on my wife’s cyclone. I just got into pinball last year and it was our 2nd pin and my first pinball task.

Goodluck

3 weeks later
#1174 3 years ago

Started stencils today. White all done today on cabinet.

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#1183 3 years ago

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#1196 3 years ago

Assembly time. Can’t wait to finally play it. Haven’t played it since I bought it in July. Went right into the restoration.

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1 month later
#1256 3 years ago

Does anyone have a pic of their GOR drop target wiring if you used new updated drop target slider boards? can you please post a pic for me please?

I bought a Gorgar I am trying to finish the restoration on and when the G drop target is hit it resets pops back up and scores even if the O and R drop targets are still up.

Also the magnet is not working. It came with the Rottendog mpu driver combo board that I just got back from being repaired. Magnet doesn’t come on with switch. Will test magnet resistance and continuity and switch contacts. It has a new coil for the magnet. Everything else works ok on Gorgar. Thanks for any help.

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#1258 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Sorry...I've only got the old wiring on mine. I'm not the best with colors so this image didn't help me much, but maybe it'll be useful to you?
https://www.siegecraft.us/pinball/images/AK-02-010.JPG

Awesome!! Do I still need to use the original diodes or no? Thanks so much!

#1262 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I'm not sure where you bought yours or how you happened upon them. I personally don't have them, but siegecraft says they use all surface mount parts and if you order from them it says to let them know what game it's for. I assume to set up the diodes properly before you get them as you wouldn't be able to reuse the originals well.

It came already with Gorgar when I bought it. I looked at mine and the boards for GOR are out of order when compared to the illustration. Previous owner kept the original diodes on when he put the new boards on.

#1263 3 years ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

The instructions I found for the wiring ->
[quoted image]

Thank you!

#1264 3 years ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

I have a Rottendog board and the magnet works as it should in Gorgar.

Going to check the magnet for continuity and make sure it’s still good. Also going to check the switch.

#1270 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Then as long as the surface mount ones are in the right places, you can probably just remove the through hole ones - assuming I'm understanding correctly.

Here’s how it’s wired with the original diodes in. Can I just solder the wires to the board directly without the diodes or just keep them there? Hopefully the photo clarifies it better.

The boards are also in the wrong order so that’s probably why the G drop target resets everything when it drops regardless if the O and R are up.

Also magnet not working. Have continuity but reading zero ohms. Should there be an ohm reading? Thank you so much

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#1271 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Then as long as the surface mount ones are in the right places, you can probably just remove the through hole ones - assuming I'm understanding correctly.

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Here’s how it’s wired with the original diodes in. Can I just solder the wires to the board directly without the diodes or just keep them there? Hopefully the photo clarifies it better.

The boards are also in the wrong order so that’s probably why the G drop target resets everything when it drops regardless if the O and R are up.

Also magnet not working. Have continuity but reading zero ohms. I assume there should be an ohm reading of 4.5

#1273 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I'm honestly a bit confused on the drop target setup, but yeah it's definitely not right. I'd unscrew them from the drop assembly so you can get them a bit more free and easier to see.
As for your magnet have you traced the button press to the solenoid that quickly feathers power to the magnet via the leaf switch reeds (I may be using the wrong terminology)
[quoted image]

I pulled the magnet and getting 0 ohms and it’s black towards the center. Will check the wires on the switch. Will look for some pics online to compare to mine unless you have one? Also will check my manual. Thanks for your help.

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#1275 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

So, I have 1 wire from the leaf switch end just to the magnet. It looks like from the leaf switch, a diode to the red wire and to the end of the fuse. Then the other magnet wire goes straight to the end of the fuse.
Sorry for the weird angles, this was from my playfield disassembly.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks so much! I cleaned the switch contacts for the magnet in the snake pit. When the switch was a hit the magnet relay coil fires now. So looks like all I need to do is get the magnet and that issue will be fixed. Hopefully anyway.

#1277 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I'd imagine. I'd be pretty surprised if the magnet itself were dead.

Getting 0 ohms on the magnet. Should there be any resistance on it? I have continuity though.

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#1279 3 years ago
Quoted from JeffF:

Zero ohms is a short... which isn't good. The black you said you see means it probably overheated and melted the coating off the winding so it shorted.

Put magnet back in and now it’s working oddly enough. Prior before I put magnet back in 20 amp fuse blew for GI and now lost all GI. When I turn game on with another 20 amp fuse it got orange hot. I Turned it off before it blew. Was working fine and so damn close to getting this Gorgar 100%. This is the hardest restoration for me to get going and working fully. Thanks for the help

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#1281 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I can sympathize just went through the same GI issue. These were the things I did
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-back-from-the-dead-and-terrifying/page/25#post-5866138
If I were to guess it was either a connector issue from my playfield swap or an exposed wire short through the insulation that I never found. Has been going well ever since however. I would recommend some mini circuit breakers. I forget where I bought mine, but those with some alligator clips will save a lot of fuses.

thank you so very much! I will go through and remove each bulb on the Playfield after I pull the harness and turn it on and see if the fuse blows or not. Then same for the back box. It’s crazy it worked and then stopped.

Definitely has to be a wire on the Playfield since it’s been up and down a few times. Need to go Sherlock Holmes and do some detective work. So damn close to being done. Did full restoration with pinball Pimp stencils and just want to finally enjoy the game.

Would you bother to replace the magnet? Mine is working but I am reading 0 ohms on it. I assume it’s not the strongest magnet regardless. Mine looks like it shorted at some point and is black on the center. See pic I posted. My gut says if it’s working leave it alone.

Thanks again for the reply, really appreciate it!

#1282 3 years ago

Ok here’s what is going on with my GI fuse blowing. I unsoldered all the wires and isolated which one was blowing the fuse. It’s the yellow wire for the play field GI.
I soldered just that wire back to the fuse and I Pulled all the lights out with the playfield propped up resting where the lock down bar goes. Put one light in at a time and all the GI lights worked and fuse didn’t blow.
When I go to put the playfield down near to the down position, it starts to short the GI fuse and lights go out. I raise it up and it’s ok. So at this point not sure what it’s coming in contact with to cause it to short out. Can’t see any wires being pinched or anything obvious.
Got the magnet to work and the GOR drop target. Only thing I did prior to 20 amp GI fuse blowing was to screw the C upper play field roll over light socket to the play field.

#1283 3 years ago

Found out what was causing the short. The GI braided wire was coming in contact with one of the screws that screw into the wood trim.

Now I lost lights on row 5 and found bad resistor at R134 2J7 on Rottendog MPU/Driver combo board. Changed out resistor and swapped out working resistor to R134 to verify and lights work now. Anyone have idea what resistor this is? According to resistor calculator it’s a 0.62 ohm 5% but can’t find one or the schematics to confirm.

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#1285 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Yeah...this is my problem too. Partial colorblindness and resistor value identification are not my forte let alone wattage value identification. I forget the company that just bought out rottendog's stuff but I know he has a ton of unpopulated boards, so the schematics are somewhere.

Had the guy who does my board work verify the resistor for me. Definitely 0.62 ohm. Wasn’t sure if band was silver or grey

#1286 3 years ago

Master display went out and found a burnt resistor and some other bad ones. Would you repair 41 year old board or buy a new xpin display kit and no worries about the board going out?

Have to put in new magnet and wait for Rottendog mpu driver board resistor to arrive. This Gorgar restoration will hopefully get finished at some point. Fix one problem then a new one pops up. Taking forever.

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#1288 3 years ago
Quoted from Cudasales:

I had a similar problem and decided to go with the XPIN kit. I was able to get it for $179.99 NEW on ebay from BIG DADDY! I sold my original displays and was able to get $35 + shipping for each of the Player displays which paid for a big chunk of the New kit. I have not sold my Master Display yet but plan on doing that soon.

I ordered the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like them? Thanks for your reply.

#1289 3 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

I decided to order the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like them? Thanks for your reply.

#1290 3 years ago
Quoted from Cudasales:

I had a similar problem and decided to go with the XPIN kit. I was able to get it for $179.99 NEW on ebay from BIG DADDY! I sold my original displays and was able to get $35 + shipping for each of the Player displays which paid for a big chunk of the New kit. I have not sold my Master Display yet but plan on doing that soon.

I ordered the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like the xpin displays? Thanks for your reply

#1292 3 years ago
Quoted from Cudasales:

I sold the Slave Displays individually and they all sold within 3 weeks. My Master works but it is having issues with it's own display so I will have to try and sell that AS-IS. I am not sure what I can get for that. It works and sends the correct signal to all of the Slave Displays but the display on itself flickers and does a few goofy things. I didn't want to mess with it and figured LED is the way to go now days. I like the XPIN setup. Very very easy install. The owner of the company is absolutely incredible to deal with. If I remember correctly his name is Brett. The guy talked to me on the phone for an hour just chatting about the Pinball world. Really Cool individual.

That’s so cool that he is so laid back and very approachable and easy to talk to. That definitely is a great plus for me. Can’t wait to get them. Definitely happy I went with the new displays. Thank you.Appreciate the replies and feedback. Will post when I receive them.

4 months later
#1357 2 years ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Has anyone installed one of the new speakers offered by Marco that supposedly has a better frequency response over the spectrum compared to the original speaker. Mine still has the original but at a hundred dollars is it worth it?

Just get this speaker. I installed it and sounds great. No reason to spend crazy money on a game with sound effects and soundboard from 1979. This speaker still gives nice base tone along with nice mids.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K3QUBZU

#1360 2 years ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Thank you for this information and quick response.

You are very welcome. You will be happy with it and save some money.

4 weeks later
#1373 2 years ago
Quoted from Purplecheesemonk:

The devil is in the details. I just ordered custom pentagram pop bumper tops from metal-mods.
[quoted image]

That needs to be on a Motley Crue pin!

2 months later
#1397 2 years ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

I am interested in replacing my worn out coin insert lights with the devil looking ones or something else. It looks like quite a job on the coin door? Is it an easy switch?

It takes sometime. Take pics as you go. I did it on mine

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