I just filled them in, found the best position, drilled pilot holes and tightened them down. Works fine so I haven’t made time to remove them, inspect and touch up yet.

Picked up a Gorgar that has been sitting in a storage unit for the last 20 years. An operator must of used it for parts as a bunch of stuff is missing. Logic would say to part it out since it's missing all the boards except the power supply, displays, apron, sling assemblies and other PF parts. I'm going to fix it, the PF is pretty nice with minimal missing ink and the BG is decent enough. The world needs more Gorgar's.

One issue that concerns me is someone cut the wires and removed the fuse holder under the power supply. A friend has a spare fuse holder but my concern is which wires go where since they are mostly the same colors. If anyone can help out which transformer wires go where and the yellow ones off the loom, I would appreciate it.

Already located most of the PF parts, still need an apron. A pinsider has all the boards I need fully upgraded and tested and I'll just install a set of LED displays.

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If nobody else jumps at the opportunity then I can pull the transformer cover off and trace those wires back for you and send some pics.

Might as well add fuses for the bridge rectifiers while you are working in this area

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2

Excellent idea will do. Thanks.

"The world needs more Gorgars." I just got mine about a month ago. I'm still learning and, forgive me, I'm afraid to open anything.

I just joined the club this week as well. It has been gone through electronics wise although I think I will probably get some NMP drop target kits at the first sign of the horseshoes acting up.

Only had one issue so far which made me think I would be rebuilding drop targets the first week. Turned out to be crappy old drop target stickers had peeled off partially and were getting jammed each time a drop went down. Does anyone else feel this machine would have been more fitting with the drop target decals either being little demon pictures instead of the good guy? Or G,O,R and G,A,R stickers?

Cosmetically the only weak point is the of itself. Someone mylared it but didn't clean up the yellow flames very well and it kind of bothers me. If the wife ends up digging this one longer term maybe I will look into a repro pf.

Other upgrade I'm considering making myself is some plasma pop bumper caps since nobody else makes them anymore. Again I feel some red plasma caps would fit this machine especially with those top right plastics compared to white good guy caps.

I have been toying with the idea of having custom stickers me of a closeup of gorgars face from the playfield. I think it would look cool.

Happy New Year! Started working on a concept here- worlds worst photo included! I decided to make a full length infinity mirror to go under machine- kind of a portal to hell. Cant get a good photo due to angles at this point- but at least here is concept.IMG_20221231_092849955 (resized).jpg

Now that is an original idea and as cool as hell frozen over!!

I'm going to work on a 3D printed solution today that will be unnoticable and hopefully still work. I don't like the idea of drilling holes in a playfield.

Nice! I was thinking of something similar--perhaps a structure with slots running perpendicular to the length of the guide. Structure replaces existing spacers, screws into current holes and then use small machine screws and nuts to fasten ball guide to structure...Something like that.

I'm interested in what you come up with.

Can someone tell me (maybe a link) what bulbs to replace with? I remember reading it but I'm hoping someone can tell me.

I know they come with a standard but we are recommended using a different..

Which? The standard playfield bulbs?

If so, you want #44/#47 "bayonet-style" bulbs. You can buy them from any pinball parts supplier. The original game used incandescent lights, but lots of people will replace them with LED bulbs for brightness, color options, etc. (think old-style filament bulbs, like you had in your house, vs. new LEDs that last longer).

If you go the LED route, I'd recommend warm white 1SMD bulbs from Comet Pinball. That's the "non-ghosting" version (sometimes LEDs will be kind of barely lit, "ghosting," when they're not supposed to be on). Non-ghosting bulbs are a bit pricier, but it's not a huge difference; for any controlled lamp (something that is sometimes on/sometimes off), you're best going with a non-ghosting bulb.

Some folks will have a purist view on using LEDs, and will insist that incandescents are the only way to go...or that you need the fancy Yopsicle LEDs instead. Personally, I think LEDs are absolutely the way to go, but everyone's perception is different.

Try some different looks to figure out what you like best. Comet actually sells a mix of their different types of bulbs, so you can try them out.

The only difference on Gorgar that I can think of is the flashing lamps up top by the A B C rollover lanes. Those are #89 bulbs. You can get LED version of them from Comet, too.

Hope a) that was what you were asking, and b) that the response helped!

I'd be curious to see what you come up with! I had flipper hop on mine, too, and I've mostly gotten rid of it through constant pushing and pulling and jiggering of the lane guide.

Was flipper-hop a common issue on Gorgars? The shape of the guide suggests to me the answer is "yes."

Thank you very much. I'm going to look more I to it. Very helpful.

I printed a bracket that slopes 2mm to the flipper. I was hoping the tension would hold it in place but I will have to use some double sided tape or glue. It is barely noticable underneath. I will report back after a week and see how it holds up.

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Cleaver, I'm sure you thought of clear or maybe a cool design and top mount it?

Another Gorgar fighter in the building. Quick shot of ours. Definitely a "player's condition." We like early SS games (hit me up if you're in Central FL and have one to sell) and though our Gorgar is not fancy, it gets used almost daily.

Good Stuff
- Rottendog
- New drop target boards (though GOR is sometimes slow to reset)
- LEDs

Mods
- zip-tied out-lanes ha! tech told me about doing that to his Addams Family

To-Do
- fix the snake pit (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-snakepit-won-t-grab-hard-shots)
- add some playfield protectors/maybe do some touchup painting prior
- diagnose iffy ABC lane guide bulb
- keep beating on it!

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Picked up a Gorgar today, I’ve had a few. This one looked to be the worst I’ve had. I love a big project. Here are some pics of what I’m working with. Got it home and did a super quick wipe down of the playfield and it’s pretty nice. Had a long list of parts ordered. So it starts.

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For your lungs sake, please tell me that wasn't mold.

Good luck bringing a classic back to life!

There is some mold. I’ve restored a few dozen machines like this. So I’m well aware how to handle and treat mold. Plus it help to have someone in the family that does that for a business. Really it’s mainly dirt. There is a little mold on the back of the light board and on the very bottom of the head. That’s it. Machine is being cleaned with a solution that will kill and remove any mold. Plus any cleaning was done outside in well ventilated area. Treated that first

I hope you got for free or close to free.

I'm trying to bring a Gorgar that an operator had used as a parts machine. I need the part number or a vendor who sell this unusual lamp socket. It's the Shoot again socket. From a picture on this thread it looks to have 4 tabs and diode. Can anyone help?

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Aside from the mounting piece, you are looking for a three tab socket, and the middle one (red wires and diode attached) is only there to support the red wires and diode. If you can't find a 3 tab replacement, just wire a two tab socket as you see there (yellow and diode tabs), and just solder the red wires to the diode, cover, and secure them to the playfield.

Very common lamp socket.

https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html

Also need diode. Make sure diode band is correct direction.

https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html

Yes it was very close to free. But almost finished, waiting on a few parts. New backglass, plastics, flipper mech’s, etc. even resin printed a bunch of parts.

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Lookes Great. what kind of led lights did you put into it?

Comet smd2 leds. I did experiment for the first time and added 4 clear posts with the fire boards underneath. They are bright and not totally sure yet.

Very, very nice. You can be very proud of this one.

Is that shooter rod plate done in resin? Looks neat but does it hold up to the abuse? Typically printer resin is somewhat brittle.

There are different resins. And yes holds up to normal abuse. Could a kid hang on it, no. But you can play with no worries

It’s about finished, scrubbed from top to bottom. Fixed the bottom that was hanging low. Playfield cleaned up nice. I had to replace the displays. Went with Wolffpac red. It’s all playing now. Got one defective coil from pinball life on the new mech’s. So waiting in that. And I have the soundboard apart getting new parts. The bridge melted down

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Major-Havoc , where did you get those bottom lane guides and matching flipper covers? Those are sick.

Playfield looks great, btw.

They come with the cpr plastic set

Do they help minimize bumping the ball?

No. When the playfield was drilled to mount the out lane and flipper assembly the outl lane sets just below the flipper and adding to that is the thickness of the band, at least that is the condition on my game.

I bought Cliffy's and they didn't fix the isssue either. I have just decided to play it as is. Don't know what else I could do.

Somehow this didnt post to the thread last month? The 3D printed Lane Saver has been working perfectly. I can now rip the spinner to eternity! It is so refreshing after 10 years. I have it available https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/williams-gorgar-pinball-lane-saver-adjustment-flipper
So far the epoxy has held up, if not I will add a support underneath it. I can't tell it is even there. It's on the left side and sticks out about 2mm.

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As a reminder for some of you who may not know this, Gorgar has a cool feature not see in newer games where you can start a new game after the 1st or 2nd ball drains. This is great if you're going for a high score game and get shit drains early on.
Cheers!

For all you Gorgar experts… I took a pic of two different Gorgars…what part number for the broken resistor replacement is this back bottom back center area of playfield. Any help would be appreciated…. Pics attached…

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Hi, I'm working on bringing a Gorgar back to life at the moment.

The backbox bolts are missing, can anyone tell me the correct bolts for these machines?

I'm assuming they are some imperial size, everything I've tried is either the wrong length or the threads are wrong.

Thanks!

Originally, it's a 330 ohm, 2watt resistor.
If you install an LED flasher in the snake pit instead, you can just clip out the blown resistor (not needed with LED).
If you stick with incandesent #89 flasher, you need the resistor. (and maybe go with a 5 watt sand resistor instead of the 2 watt.)

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/R5W330

I am looking to replace my stand-up targets. Does anyone know what color is the original one and a part number? Thanks

Haha. Just got a new high score, baby!!

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Hi Everyone. Does anyone know how to set the game to 1 play 50c, 2 plays 75c, 3 plays $1.00?

Thank you!

My son and I brought this home a week or so ago. The first time I started working on this machine it drew blood. Oddly it was a minor cut on my finger, but it would not stop bleeding and it blead a lot! So much so that it dripped onto the machine... Not a joke...

Gorgar thirsty, Gorgar will drink

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I took a coil bracket to the back of the head once while working on my Gorgar that drew blood - all I could think was 'Me Got You'