I already have a Dremel, and I added those linked items into my Amazon cart. I don't anticipate getting started on the hardtop for another month, but it's good to have everything on hand ahead of time.

I believe that you have the strength backwards. The more windings the stronger. So you would want a coil with 900 windings.

Nope!
The more windings means more resistance which means less amp draw (current). Basic ohm's law V/IR.
If you remove windings you make it stronger, but the concern is blowing something on the driver board if the amp draw is too great. But you can always fuse it.
V = voltage
I = current (amps)
R = resistance (ohms)

What-is-Ohms-Law (resized).png

I sadly left the club this weekend. Gorgar: me got you…

OK, if you increase the number of windings and use larger wire with less resistance, then you would increase the current flow and the magnetic field generated. But we are operating within the pinball spec.

Thanks for this—wanted to issue an update!

I've got relatively-new NVRAM at the 5101, so I didn't think this would be the issue; but sure enough, all I did was follow your instructions, and re-seat the 5101, and it seems to be working now. If it persists, I'll pull the board off and see if maybe I didn't solder the chip-holder pins properly, but for now, seems I'm in business.

Thanks!

Still working though my non functioning Gorgar! Replaced the original boards with rottendog mpu/driver and power supply-and am fixing to install new combo sound board and speech board this afternoon. Game still wont function correctly, when i turn on the bottom pop bumper cycles in one second intervals, and there is a hum-so I shut down not to overheat anything. When I got machine, it had been sitting outside in sub zero weather for 8 hours-thus the connectors to get back box separated were frozen, brittle, and super difficult to get apart. I think my next step will be to replace all of those connectors, and then keep working my way forwards to playfield. No question I am throwing more money than logic or skill at the problem-but with it being a basically free game, in better than average condition, I am hopeful in the end it will be a good decision.

Don't worry about it. It's a 1979 machine. All new electronics is a good idea. Just sell the old boards on eBay. Someone will rebuild them. But I would recommend installing a special solenoid saver board before you blow something on your new board. Also, make sure all your fuses are the correct ones!
See post # 1489 and #1491 this thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-back-from-the-dead-and-terrifying/page/30

Help!! Ok, I’m Fine. Anyone have a Scan of the Gorgar Slings PDF.

Thanks.

I just joined the club last Thursday! My first pinball machine. Wanted GORGAR since 1981 when I was 12 years old.

Love seein' all the awesome GORGAR machines in this club! ...and thank you Upkick Pinball for the awesome coin inserts!

281159277_10209578215209405_6045493307293102139_n (resized).jpg

280844284_10209578416214430_2533404404263370469_n (resized).jpg

281145547_10209578416134428_5955370545416637600_n (resized).jpg

281213325_10209578416054426_2178930980746587845_n (resized).jpg

I just joined the club last Thursday! My first pinball machine. Wanted GORGAR since 1981 when I was 12 years old.
Love seein' all the awesome GORGAR machines in this club! ...and thank you Upkick Pinball for the awesome coin inserts![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]</blockquot

Welcome to the club. I put the same inserts in my Gorgar, did you get the apron cards too?

I did!

Here is an interesting post for alternative NMP drop target installation. Great idea for permanent magnet installation that uses rivets rather than glue!
See post #62

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system3-6-drop-target-replacement-bords-nmp-sensors-vids-review/page/2#post-6935502

Sweet! Always good to hear when the problems are solved, too I'm glad I could help

Ok my magnet is holding the ball tooo loonnnggg…..

Sometimes works fine.

Hardtop conversion done. Most things on the top side are new. I replaced a bunch of burned coils, damaged mechs and light sockets on the bottom. I added the following-
LEDs
Blue inserts under the stars
Light for saucer
Black and white colored target faces
Clear red pop bodies
NMP magnetic drop target sensors
Connectors on drop banks for ease of service
Fire effect leds under “gor” and “gar” inserts
I turned off the heartbeat and added demonically themed songs to play via the NW7’s jukebox feature. I only had to swap two coil drive pins to get this running in my 3-6 multi-pin cabinet(originally a Flash). I sanded and repainted the apron. The red on the apron decal from Planetary went super dark when I applied it. Other than that, I was super stoked on how it came out.

2EAAF68F-77A5-4CDA-8AC5-A8026529684A (resized).jpeg

Looks Great.

Having good progress on the gorgar-considering I have no idea what I am doing! Got all the boards replaced, and gorgar speaks in test mode! When I start machine it does not go into attract mode- but shows credits and will start a game. Most all the lights work, as well as the targets slings and bumpers-but some bumpers will kill flippers etc when activated. Displays are working-but will need replaced if i want to mint it out. Many of the targets have a little delay before sound effects and score triggered- so will be cleaning and gapping those. The two things I really want to see happen is getting it into attract mode-and getting gorgars voice and heartbeat during game play and not just the scoring sounds. One question- will the game go into attract mode with credits on machine? or should I get rid of credits to get there? Going to replace lock and check wiring to coin door tonight as I feel there may be some issue there as well.

Yep, it will - credits just kind of accumulate on the game as they’re awarded, even if you’ve got it set to free play, and they do not affect the game’s ability to go into attract mode.

Well shucks! Looks like I will have to think a little more! Thanks!

Sorry I couldn't help more! I'm curious to learn what's going on—I've never heard of the game *not* going into attract mode, but you can still start a game, but maybe that's because I've never tried to start a game when it's not in attract...

What's shown on the score displays when you start up? If it says "1496 1" (I think that's the number...), that is showing you the current version of code that the game is running. If the game doesn't go into attract mode, but shows you that, then I believe your issue could with settings being saved. Check the batteries, and the 5101 chip.

...but then again, if that's the case, then I wouldn't think it could save the credits or your free-play setting...? So I'm not sure what's up! Hoping someone who's much more knowledgable will be able to give some ideas.

The score when I start it up flashes between 0s and 150k- then scores normally as I hit the various targets-until i hit one that kills flippers and additional scoring. would think it was tilting, but no sound effect. The attract could be dead bulbs,or relay issues. None of the red 1-20 bulbs light so that make have something to do with it. The only flasher on backbox is upper left corner.

Having an issue with the A-B-C rollovers at the top of the playfield.

The normal rollover score when triggered is 1000 for each the ABC rollovers.
The A and B rollovers are scoring (A) 3000 and (B) 4000 each time the ball rolls those lanes. The C rollover scores the correct 1000.

When the A-B-C rollovers are triggered (as per game rules), it advances the multiplier to 2X. This works fine. Here is where the problem is ...If either the B or C rollover is triggered very quickly after the multiplier advances (a second or two) it triggers the multiplier to advance again and resets the ABC lights as if the A-B-C were all triggered again, when in reality, just one rollover is triggered but acts as if all 3 were triggered. (hard to explain, but doing my best).

This does not happen if there is more than a few seconds after the multiplier is triggered, in that case, it does not trip an advance of the multiplier and just lights the respective lane as normal.

I also notice that randomly the LED in the C rollover light socket stays very dimly lit. I replaced. Same thing.

Like I said, I am new to pinball, but learning, ...this doesn't seem to be a switch issue, it rather seems like the ABC rollovers have phantom current that doesn't dissipate as it should.

Does any of this make sense to anyone? ...and lurking this Gorgar club forum since beginning of the pandemic is what made me decide to take the leap and start collecting. Thank you guys.

Is the bulb a LED? Try a non ghosting LED or an incandescent bulb and see if it's still dimly lit.
- My bottom pop bumper scores excessively high as well. I don't know why. Switches are gapped correctly. It's not triggering from playfield vibrations. Brand new Rottendog board and new power supply installed.

Mine does the same. Often awarding 2 advances of the bonus on one trip thru a lane and has advanced me from no multiplier to 3x a couple times after completing ABC. I tried cleaning and adjusting the switches but it still happens sometimes.

I thought about replacing the switches but never did and just treat this as a scoring quirk of a 43yo game

Replaced LED with another one from cointaker and the ghosting stopped could have been just the specific LED. Brand new Rottendog in mine as well. Weird quirky scoring issues like your bumper and my rollover lane, maybe this is just something we have to live with, with a pin this old? ..idk. It doesn't really detract from the game. I just want it to be perfect.

After a good nights sleep I am starting to think like you. I was stressed over it yesterday, but this morning I believe I can live with it if it is indeed just a weird/random quirk of an old game. Going to clean the contacts this morning and adjust - if that doesn't solve the issue, I'll buy new switches and replace, and see where that gets me. I'll report my findings later this evening.

Stress free holiday weekend in honor of our fallen service members <3

I tried to recreate this issue on my Gorgar, and could not reproduce it. Everything is scoring as it should. I have original system 6 boards, but have bulletproofed them per the guide.

I’d check your diodes to make sure there isn’t an issue in the switch matrix, particularly in column 4 and rows 2 & 3.

Will do and thank you! ...Just such a weird issue, the game is pretty much flawless, except for this scoring quirk.

Would be interesting to have others test this issue as well and see what side their machines fall on.

Does your lowest pop bumper score higher than the others? Mine is all over the place.

Update: excessive score value on A-B-C lanes resolved (now scores the correct 1000 points per rollover). multiplier advancing issue resolved (quickly passing thru a single lane right after advancing the multiplier does not advance the multiplier a second time).

I cleaned the contacts with a business card (they did not appear soiled) and adjusted the 3 rollover lane switches with an adjuster tool.(kinda just guessed at the gap specs, I am new) and for now issue is 100 percent resolved. if it returns again later today, tomorrow, or whenever, I will adjust the switches -again- as I believe this was the exact culprit.

I am learning, and thank you guys!

I experienced scoring problem on the out lanes and found the points were gapped to far apart. Once I adjusted them closer problem was gone and haven't seen it again. Try setting points closer.

No big news on the project- but getting closer! Figured I would post a pic to help revive thread! Virtually everything is working-but a few slow switches, doesnt go into attract on playfield and when you hit a pop bumper- save one, it kills the ball. If I dont have progress this weekend will likely call in someone who knows what they are doing

IMG_20220121_185938363 (resized).jpg

Run Gorgs through the Ampeg for extra boom!

I wondered who would know what some of those items in background were! How about Gorgar-through the SVT tube head into the leslie on the left hand side?

I just joined the club. Picked up a Gorgar that the seller said recently stopped working for $400. Playfield has a little wear but is pretty decent and backglass is nice. Has nvram and solenoid fuse board. Someone had added fuses on the two bridge rectifiers but put them on the DC output side instead of on one of the inputs so I fixed that.

When I got it home and turned it on the Board would boot and it would call out Gorgar but nothing on the displays and couldn’t start a game. After flipping the power twice with the coin door open it booted up and I could start a game but the displays showed a few 8’s and zeros but didn’t change as the game went on. Got it into audit mode but the display test only cycled through a few random numbers rather than counting up and some coils don’t fire.

I’m currently doing all the things in the system 3-7 bulletproofing guide, reflowing all other connectors and replacing both drop target coil transistors that were visibly blown on the driver board. I’ve Ordered the NMP drop target boards. Still waiting for a digikey order but hoping it will play correctly once I do the board work and put it back together.

Nice find!!

You can use these test ROMs to help you get your game up and running again:

https://pincoder.ca

If you dont have a chip programmer and spare chips you can use buy an adapter that has all of the test ROMs for system 3 through 7 all on one board:

It's available from the main menu on the pincoder site, and you can also hit this link for more information:

https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/

I can usually have one at your door in about 5-6 days.

Sounds like you have quite a few issues going on. To find out more about how to run the tests just download the software from the main menu. The documentation for each test is included.

Hope that helps get you on your way

Sounds like switch matrix issues. See my previous post to @noopy. It will likely help you too

Well I finished the bulletproofing and everything seems to be working except some solenoid issues. The kicker and saucer solenoids are locked on and the drop target solenoids don’t fire. No switches are stuck on and I replaced Q14-Q21 hoping that would resolve the issue but no such luck.

Pincoder I don’t have a rom burner so I would have to buy your diagnostic board and chip with all of the tests on it. Can you explain to me which test I would use in this situation and what would it be able to tell me? I might be interested in buying one if I understood it a bit better.

I went and disconnected connector 2J11 from the driver board so that I could turn the machine on without the outhole and saucer locking on and noticed the wire going to pin 1 is cut. If I’m reading the wiring diagram correctly this goes to solenoid 8 which is unused on Gorgar? So it being cut doesn’t effect anything?

4304D513-0026-4448-A673-6D223FE53F12 (resized).jpeg

Absolutely. You're definitely into the later teats.. driver board stuff for sure.

The best way to solve the problems is to run all tests in order and fix things when a test fails. The first tests you'll breeze through in just a few minutes as it seems your MPU board is okay. Run the tests anyway just to be sure. This will also give you confidence in the areas that do pass.

Then run the switches, lamps, and solenoids tests. I think you will find much here. Running these in game is also easy and because everything is connected on the driver board you will be testing playfield components too.

If you want to test the driver board independently of the playfield you can read and adhere to all of the warnings and follow all of the instructions for the flippers test. This will tell you if the problems are on the driver board, independent of the in-game components.

You should also check out the items under the Support menu of the https://pincoder.ca website. There are two links to pinside threads where you can see previous questions and answers. There is also a link to community usage videos where using the adapter is demonstrated..

Hope that helps

Craig

I cant verify that information at the moment. I can say that if it's there it should be connected. Though it being disconnected won't be causing your solenoid issues.

Please join Dave and George as they explore and review Gorgar on their #89 podcast.

The Classic Pinball Podcast

Downloadable here:
http://pinballdoctor.com/the-classic-pinball-podcast/
https://podbay.fm/podcast/1469743456
Accessible to stream via any of the links below:
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-classic-pinball-podcast/id1469743456
https://www.breaker.audio/the-classic-pinball-podcast
https://open.spotify.com/show/6JGvAzDFwCSJUwwWgBMCDd
https://radiopublic.com/the-classic-pinball-podcast-WR95kj
https://overcast.fm/itunes1469743456/the-classic-pinball-podcast

Just listed a nice Gorgar if anyone's interested: ebay.com link: itm

What can I replace the Snake Pit stand up with? My switch isn't dependable to fire the magnet.

On my Gorgar, the grounding cable that goes from the backbox wing to under the playfield has come loose from the under playfield location and is just sitting on the cabinet bottom. Can someone describe for me precisely where the cable should be attached under the cabinet?