Pretty sure it was caused by replacing a bad coil with a brand new replacement coil that turned out to be bad as well.

History: Game was working fine and then GAR drops stopped resetting. Fixed a lose wire in target assembly. All good. Then, a few days later had fluttering right flipper. Could see coil wires in middle lug had separated from lug and so I ordered two new replacement coils. Switched bad coil to one of the new ones and game was working again. A day or two later I encountered the issue with the right flipper causing “Gorgar” to be spoken each time I released the flipper button. Spent way too much time diagnosing the target assemblies, boards, and looking for possible spilled solder on the wires. Finally, I thought could this be a problem with the brand new coil as I was desperate. Switched to the other new flipper coil and now game is working again. Two days later, and still working, but I am not yet past the “nervous” stage.

lol I know exactly that feeling Hoping for the best for you!

Have 2 very nice examples. I wound up with 5 and sold 3.

Having a weird issue with my Gorgar. First, everything tests perfectly. All switches and lamps behaving as they should in test mode. However, when I start a game there will be lamps randomly lit, and turning on and off. The lamps that are lit don't correspond at all to what I know should be happening. Scoring and sounds seem fine though. This behavior seems to correlate with heat -- when i first fire up a game it seems normal, but after it's been on a while it starts acting bizarro.

I should note that the MPU had pretty substantial alkaline damage when I purchased it. I went through it pretty deeply, removed all corroded parts, cleaned up traces, neutralized, ect. all sockets were replaced, as was the 40pin. I do recall the legs on some of the chips being very black. I cleaned them off, but I wonder if they were damaged? I don't remember which chips it was unfortunately.

Edit: Created a separate thread on this issue if you want to chime in there. Thanks https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-strange-controlled-lamp-issue#post-6469583

Link to video walk thru of mods and resto on OG Gorgar https://www.facebook.com/groups/pinballenthusiasts/permalink/4679223615443862/

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It's likely the driver board is signalling the sound board whenever there is a power fluctuation. Check the gaps on the leaf switches for the right flipper to ensure optimal play. Also replace the two diodes on the flipper coil. Make sure you put the new ones in the same orientation as the old ones. Diodes prevent electricity flowing back into the transistors on the driver board when the coil is released.

It has been a few weeks since I did the flipper coil replacement and Gorgar has continued to play well without any sound issues. Probably testing date by posting this update, but looks like the bad brand new flipper coil was indeed the cause of the repeating “Gorgar” issue.

Painted a cabinet for a friend. The right red color is everything.

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Man, that looks great.

Can someone take a picture of this so I can see how the wire and diode goes?

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Come to the Dark side Gorgar Fans! All pinball is acceptable!!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3498499426859515/

Just added Topper to my game. It's really cool but the only thing I don't like is you can't turn off the red led strip in front with the remote, only the back lights in the mountains. I added a switch to the power transformer to remedy that.

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Would someone mind posting a picture of where the ground in the upper right corner of the back box connects? I picked one up where the previous owner cut it where it comes out from under the shielding.

Thanks!

let me know if you still need this!
i can do this tomorrow

Yes, please!

Looks like I'm getting a Gorgar this weekend!

A vocabulary of seven words: Gorgar, Speaks, Beat, You, Me, Hurt, Got for different phrases."

.. Now, just imagine the fun we could have if you could add just one more word like ""Butt" to the mix!

Here ya go!

image (resized).jpg

Well, I'm missing the pedestal on which the back box rests (part between cab and back box). I'll have to build a new one. Can anyone give me the dimensions of one side of the pedestal? I just need the front and rear height to get the angle right.
Thanks!

Also, I need a new coin door lock. Anyone know what size?

2 1/4” high in front, 2” rear.

I have a Gorgar that is driving my nuts. Everything works but the right flipper. We have tested the coils, they are fine. We have traced the wires for continuity all the way back to the back box, they are fine. We have tested the flipper switches and continuity from them and they are fine.

The PCB and Drive board are brand new from PinballPCB.

Anyone other ideas on what would make the right flipper not fire?

Thanks

WOW! Thank you so much!!

LOCK AND CAM - 7/8 INCH KEYED-ALIKE
#LKA78

This is what I bought.

Did you talk to them at pinballpcb yet? I had issues with my flippers on the new board they supplied. Different problem… mine would flip ALL THE TIME… even after tilt or when a game wasn’t even started. Never seen such a thing. Sent board back and they replaced it (or fixed it, not sure which). Works perfect now. Wish it had better QC leaving their shop, but in the end they provided excellent customer service.

Thanks, I emailed them

So

Thanks!
The same size as the back glass lock. Which I also need replaced.

Does anyone know where I can get the side playfield glass plastic trim for Gorgar?

What is the right one to get?

Thanks

Anyone know where to get new service menu button switches for Gorgar? Mine are no longer original or mounted to the coin door plate? From this picture, it appears they are mounted from the top with a threaded housing and nut?

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See solution below.

Looks like a complete retro fit will be required as these threaded button switches appear to be unobtainium!

The new button sets will Not fit in this panel just so you know.

Has anyone experienced the outlines on Gorgar increase in value? The 3000 lane initially scores 3000 but as game play goes on I have seen mine score 4000, then 5000 and so on. Does something in the play advance this value? Some one check your game and see if yours does this same thing. Please post any advice on this.

I have done further checks and found that the D lane gives 9000 not 3000 initially. Sometimes it scores correctly and occasionally the E lane will score wrong. What is the problem here?

Well, I drilled out the panel holes to 1/2 inch and used wire and liquid steel to fasten the new triple service switch button assembly to the underside of existing panel. Then I made my own labels for it. I recommend that you solder some 6 inch long pieces of 20 gauge wire to the switches to splice onto later, before you install the switch assembly, or it's a real PITA to do it after it's installed. Ya, I spelled MANUAL wrong!

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Here's the restored back box. Original had bottom falling off when I got it home!
Also, the rebuilt back box apron installed.
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It's hard to see at rear of pic, but I used a piece of angle iron for the interlock bracket for back box. I had to grind down the depth of it to allow for proper clearance.

I meant back box pedestal.. Not apron duh!

And the CPU/Driver boards are getting the full Vid Bullet Proofing... This also includes all sound board caps, even the tiny .01uF ones, as they are problematic as well. No need for power source as it's a new one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Anyone here done a Hard Top? Any advice?

Nice job.

Thanks!

So, the Pinball Life steel protectors and proper Williams era (non ribbed) legs worked well. Plenty of clearance between legs and decals.

Took a few hours today and changed all lights underneath the playfield to led's. Well worth the time and effort. Backbox was changed by previous owner.

Nice job.

Sweet

LED vs Incandescent.

LED Pros...... Better color, brighter, less heat and amp draw, better for plastics.
LED Cons..... Jagged harsh behavior without the use of a LED OCD.
I always do back box and GI with LEDs, but only certain playfield inserts as the liquid smooth action of incandescent bulbs is too nice to destroy. You can always downsize 44's to 47's to reduce amp draw and heat. But, they're dimmer.

**See spec chart here... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/44-vs-47-miniature-pinball-lamps/

Could you please provide a site that would show current draw of a 6.3v led? Thank you.

Don't know off hand, but with incandescent bulbs, the vast majority of light produced is infra red spectrum light which you can't see and why they get so hot. They are incredibly inefficient! LED lights produce no infra red light and only visible light so the current draw is greatly reduced as is the heat generated! With LED's, amp draw is insignificant as far as your wiring is concerned.
It's strange, but I can't find any specs on LED pinball lighting that tell you the amp draw! But here is a helpful illustration of bulb brightness...
https://www.cometpinball.com/pages/pinball-led-brightness-chart
* Notice that the 2SMD is brighter than the 4SMD.

Thank you Sir. I was told that comparing leds to incandescent is a 10 to 1 ratio.

I doubt that, but it's still huge!
Also, remember to use warm white if you want the same look as incandescent bulbs. The new sunlight are nice too. They are a halfway between warm white and cool white. They are brighter and work good for GI if you want your playfield brighter. The only drawback to LED's is they don't ramp up and down in brightness nicely like incandescent (which looks much nicer especially in attract mode) unless you install a LED OCD. If you do this, make sure NOT to use non ghosting LED's as it will mostly defeat the purpose of the LED OCD.
* As far as Williams pins, LED OCD is only available for System 9 on up.

Also, don't buy warm white form pinball life. They are more like sun light white. I compared them side by side. Way too high temp and not remotely similar to incandescent.

My friend just told me a 44 bulb draws 200 ma. and a 2 md draws 30ma. Comes out to about a 7 to 1 ratio. I appreciate all this information. Thanks again for all your input.

Spoken for