(Topic ID: 62108)

GORGAR CLUB: Members Only! *THE EVIL PINBALL THAT EATS SOULS*

By Jared

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by dscapo
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There are 1,643 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 33.
#1401 1 year ago

Pretty sure it was caused by replacing a bad coil with a brand new replacement coil that turned out to be bad as well.

History: Game was working fine and then GAR drops stopped resetting. Fixed a lose wire in target assembly. All good. Then, a few days later had fluttering right flipper. Could see coil wires in middle lug had separated from lug and so I ordered two new replacement coils. Switched bad coil to one of the new ones and game was working again. A day or two later I encountered the issue with the right flipper causing “Gorgar” to be spoken each time I released the flipper button. Spent way too much time diagnosing the target assemblies, boards, and looking for possible spilled solder on the wires. Finally, I thought could this be a problem with the brand new coil as I was desperate. Switched to the other new flipper coil and now game is working again. Two days later, and still working, but I am not yet past the “nervous” stage.

#1402 1 year ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

Pretty sure it was caused by replacing a bad coil with a brand new replacement coil that turned out to be bad as well.
History: Game was working fine and then GAR drops stopped resetting. Fixed a lose wire in target assembly. All good. Then, a few days later had fluttering right flipper. Could see coil wires in middle lug had separated from lug and so I ordered two new replacement coils. Switched bad coil to one of the new ones and game was working again. A day or two later I encountered the issue with the right flipper causing “Gorgar” to be spoken each time I released the flipper button. Spent way too much time diagnosing the target assemblies, boards, and looking for possible spilled solder on the wires. Finally, I thought could this be a problem with the brand new coil as I was desperate. Switched to the other new flipper coil and now game is working again. Two days later, and still working, but I am not yet past the “nervous” stage.

lol I know exactly that feeling Hoping for the best for you!

#1403 1 year ago

Have 2 very nice examples. I wound up with 5 and sold 3.

#1404 1 year ago

Having a weird issue with my Gorgar. First, everything tests perfectly. All switches and lamps behaving as they should in test mode. However, when I start a game there will be lamps randomly lit, and turning on and off. The lamps that are lit don't correspond at all to what I know should be happening. Scoring and sounds seem fine though. This behavior seems to correlate with heat -- when i first fire up a game it seems normal, but after it's been on a while it starts acting bizarro.

I should note that the MPU had pretty substantial alkaline damage when I purchased it. I went through it pretty deeply, removed all corroded parts, cleaned up traces, neutralized, ect. all sockets were replaced, as was the 40pin. I do recall the legs on some of the chips being very black. I cleaned them off, but I wonder if they were damaged? I don't remember which chips it was unfortunately.

Edit: Created a separate thread on this issue if you want to chime in there. Thanks https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-strange-controlled-lamp-issue#post-6469583

3 weeks later
#1405 1 year ago

Link to video walk thru of mods and resto on OG Gorgar https://www.facebook.com/groups/pinballenthusiasts/permalink/4679223615443862/

61DCEC59-F716-4E9A-A8B7-4481AC24E5E1 (resized).jpeg
#1406 1 year ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

STRANGE PROBLEM WITH GORGAR EGO...
He keeps telling me his name is "Gorgar".
A few days ago I did the following work (a) replaced the right flipper coil (b) re-soldered two of the wires on the lower (Gar) target board as the game was not resetting the 3 targets when completed. Yes, I did all this with the machine off!
The game worked fine for a few days.
Now, just about every time I engage the right flipper, button, the game says "Gorgar" like it does when both target sets have been completed. However, the game plays fine in all other respects including the right flipper working fine and both target sets scoring and resetting properly. I am just getting quite annoyed by Gorgar's constant shouting of his name out loud during game play!
So, I am at a loss as to the cause of this. Not sure whether this is a problem with one of the target assemblies, crossed wiring of the flipper wires with target wires (possibly initiated by sloppy solder droppings while working on the coil or GAR targets) , an issue with connections into a specific board in the backbox, a specific board that has an issue with drivers or something else?
Any guidance as to how to proceed and what to check on would be appreciated. Thanks.

It's likely the driver board is signalling the sound board whenever there is a power fluctuation. Check the gaps on the leaf switches for the right flipper to ensure optimal play. Also replace the two diodes on the flipper coil. Make sure you put the new ones in the same orientation as the old ones. Diodes prevent electricity flowing back into the transistors on the driver board when the coil is released.

1 week later
#1407 1 year ago

It has been a few weeks since I did the flipper coil replacement and Gorgar has continued to play well without any sound issues. Probably testing date by posting this update, but looks like the bad brand new flipper coil was indeed the cause of the repeating “Gorgar” issue.

#1408 1 year ago

Painted a cabinet for a friend. The right red color is everything.

16342546278872717788298650754871 (resized).jpg
#1409 1 year ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Painted a cabinet for a friend. The right red color is everything.
[quoted image]

Man, that looks great.

1 week later
#1410 1 year ago

Can someone take a picture of this so I can see how the wire and diode goes?

20211024_103044 (resized).jpg
#1411 1 year ago

Come to the Dark side Gorgar Fans! All pinball is acceptable!!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3498499426859515/

4 weeks later
#1412 1 year ago

Just added Topper to my game. It's really cool but the only thing I don't like is you can't turn off the red led strip in front with the remote, only the back lights in the mountains. I added a switch to the power transformer to remedy that.

20211122_163643 (resized).jpg
#1413 1 year ago

Would someone mind posting a picture of where the ground in the upper right corner of the back box connects? I picked one up where the previous owner cut it where it comes out from under the shielding.

Thanks!

#1414 12 months ago
Quoted from Sean:

Would someone mind posting a picture of where the ground in the upper right corner of the back box connects? I picked one up where the previous owner cut it where it comes out from under the shielding.
Thanks!

let me know if you still need this!
i can do this tomorrow

#1415 12 months ago

Yes, please!

Quoted from Randy_G:

let me know if you still need this!
i can do this tomorrow

#1416 12 months ago

Looks like I'm getting a Gorgar this weekend!

A vocabulary of seven words: Gorgar, Speaks, Beat, You, Me, Hurt, Got for different phrases."

.. Now, just imagine the fun we could have if you could add just one more word like ""Butt" to the mix!

#1417 12 months ago
Quoted from Sean:

Yes, please!

Here ya go!

image (resized).jpg
#1418 11 months ago

Well, I'm missing the pedestal on which the back box rests (part between cab and back box). I'll have to build a new one. Can anyone give me the dimensions of one side of the pedestal? I just need the front and rear height to get the angle right.
Thanks!

#1419 11 months ago

Also, I need a new coin door lock. Anyone know what size?

#1420 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Well, I'm missing the pedestal on which the back box rests (part between cab and back box). I'll have to build a new one. Can anyone give me the dimensions of one side of the pedestal? I just need the front and rear height to get the angle right.
Thanks!

Give me a few min.

#1421 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Well, I'm missing the pedestal on which the back box rests (part between cab and back box). I'll have to build a new one. Can anyone give me the dimensions of one side of the pedestal? I just need the front and rear height to get the angle right.
Thanks!

2 1/4” high in front, 2” rear.

#1422 11 months ago

Crude but you get the idea.

Base.pdf
#1423 11 months ago

I have a Gorgar that is driving my nuts. Everything works but the right flipper. We have tested the coils, they are fine. We have traced the wires for continuity all the way back to the back box, they are fine. We have tested the flipper switches and continuity from them and they are fine.

The PCB and Drive board are brand new from PinballPCB.

Anyone other ideas on what would make the right flipper not fire?

Thanks

#1424 11 months ago
Quoted from iamdrunker:

Crude but you get the idea.
[quoted image]

WOW! Thank you so much!!

#1425 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Also, I need a new coin door lock. Anyone know what size?

LOCK AND CAM - 7/8 INCH KEYED-ALIKE
#LKA78

This is what I bought.

#1426 11 months ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

I have a Gorgar that is driving my nuts. Everything works but the right flipper. We have tested the coils, they are fine. We have traced the wires for continuity all the way back to the back box, they are fine. We have tested the flipper switches and continuity from them and they are fine.
The PCB and Drive board are brand new from PinballPCB.
Anyone other ideas on what would make the right flipper not fire?
Thanks

Did you talk to them at pinballpcb yet? I had issues with my flippers on the new board they supplied. Different problem… mine would flip ALL THE TIME… even after tilt or when a game wasn’t even started. Never seen such a thing. Sent board back and they replaced it (or fixed it, not sure which). Works perfect now. Wish it had better QC leaving their shop, but in the end they provided excellent customer service.

#1427 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Did you talk to them at pinballpcb yet? I had issues with my flippers on the new board they supplied. Different problem… mine would flip ALL THE TIME… even after tilt or when a game wasn’t even started. Never seen such a thing. Sent board back and they replaced it (or fixed it, not sure which). Works perfect now. Wish it had better QC leaving their shop, but in the end they provided excellent customer service.

Thanks, I emailed them

#1428 11 months ago

So

Quoted from pyrotech:

LOCK AND CAM - 7/8 INCH KEYED-ALIKE
#LKA78
This is what I bought.

Thanks!
The same size as the back glass lock. Which I also need replaced.

#1429 11 months ago

Does anyone know where I can get the side playfield glass plastic trim for Gorgar?

What is the right one to get?

Thanks

#1430 11 months ago

Anyone know where to get new service menu button switches for Gorgar? Mine are no longer original or mounted to the coin door plate? From this picture, it appears they are mounted from the top with a threaded housing and nut?

WMSSystem3-7CoinDoorSwitches (resized).jpg Added 11 months ago:

See solution below.

#1431 11 months ago

Looks like a complete retro fit will be required as these threaded button switches appear to be unobtainium!

Added 11 months ago:

The new button sets will Not fit in this panel just so you know.

#1432 11 months ago
0125C9D6-E873-46E8-824A-7C65E124125E (resized).jpeg
#1433 11 months ago

Has anyone experienced the outlines on Gorgar increase in value? The 3000 lane initially scores 3000 but as game play goes on I have seen mine score 4000, then 5000 and so on. Does something in the play advance this value? Some one check your game and see if yours does this same thing. Please post any advice on this.

#1434 11 months ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Has anyone experienced the outlines on Gorgar increase in value? The 3000 lane initially scores 3000 but as game play goes on I have seen mine score 4000, then 5000 and so on. Does something in the play advance this value? Some one check your game and see if yours does this same thing. Please post any advice on this.

I have done further checks and found that the D lane gives 9000 not 3000 initially. Sometimes it scores correctly and occasionally the E lane will score wrong. What is the problem here?

#1435 11 months ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

I have done further checks and found that the D lane gives 9000 not 3000 initially. Sometimes it scores correctly and occasionally the E lane will score wrong. What is the problem here?

After more research found that the points were to far apart, closed gap a little and BINGO. Scoring perfectly now.

1 week later
#1436 10 months ago

Well, I drilled out the panel holes to 1/2 inch and used wire and liquid steel to fasten the new triple service switch button assembly to the underside of existing panel. Then I made my own labels for it. I recommend that you solder some 6 inch long pieces of 20 gauge wire to the switches to splice onto later, before you install the switch assembly, or it's a real PITA to do it after it's installed. Ya, I spelled MANUAL wrong!

DSCN0270 (resized).JPGDSCN0272 (resized).JPG

#1437 10 months ago

Here's the restored back box. Original had bottom falling off when I got it home!
Also, the rebuilt back box apron installed.
01 (resized).jpg02 (resized).jpg03 (resized).jpg04 (resized).jpg

It's hard to see at rear of pic, but I used a piece of angle iron for the interlock bracket for back box. I had to grind down the depth of it to allow for proper clearance.

Added 10 months ago:

I meant back box pedestal.. Not apron duh!

#1438 10 months ago

And the CPU/Driver boards are getting the full Vid Bullet Proofing... This also includes all sound board caps, even the tiny .01uF ones, as they are problematic as well. No need for power source as it's a new one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Anyone here done a Hard Top? Any advice?

#1439 10 months ago

Nice job.

#1440 10 months ago

Thanks!

#1441 10 months ago

FYI, be careful if installing Pinball Life steel cabinet protectors with cabinet decals as they are too thin for some games. The ribbed legs on my F-14 with these protectors cut my cab decals! Use the Mantis steel protectors as they are supposedly thicker from what I have read on this forum.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-leg-protector-hidden/

Added 10 months ago:

Or better yet (due to price), just order two sets of the Pinball Life cab protectors and double them up. Will need longer screws through.

Added 10 months ago:

https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html

Added 32 days ago:

So, the Pinball Life steel protectors and proper Williams era (non ribbed) legs worked well. Plenty of clearance between legs and decals.

2 weeks later
#1442 10 months ago

Took a few hours today and changed all lights underneath the playfield to led's. Well worth the time and effort. Backbox was changed by previous owner.

#1443 10 months ago

Nice job.

Quoted from Moeman65:

Took a few hours today and changed all lights underneath the playfield to led's. Well worth the time and effort. Backbox was changed by previous owner.

Sweet

#1444 10 months ago

LED vs Incandescent.

LED Pros...... Better color, brighter, less heat and amp draw, better for plastics.
LED Cons..... Jagged harsh behavior without the use of a LED OCD.
I always do back box and GI with LEDs, but only certain playfield inserts as the liquid smooth action of incandescent bulbs is too nice to destroy. You can always downsize 44's to 47's to reduce amp draw and heat. But, they're dimmer.

**See spec chart here... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/44-vs-47-miniature-pinball-lamps/

#1445 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

LED vs Incandescent.
LED Pros...... Better color, brighter, less heat and amp draw, better for plastics.
LED Cons..... Jagged harsh behavior without the use of a LED OCD.
I always do back box and GI with LEDs, but only certain playfield inserts as the liquid smooth action of incandescent bulbs is too nice to destroy. You can always downsize 44's to 47's to reduce amp draw and heat. But, they're dimmer.
**See spec chart here... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/44-vs-47-miniature-pinball-lamps/

Could you please provide a site that would show current draw of a 6.3v led? Thank you.

#1446 10 months ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Could you please provide a site that would show current draw of a 6.3v led? Thank you.

Don't know off hand, but with incandescent bulbs, the vast majority of light produced is infra red spectrum light which you can't see and why they get so hot. They are incredibly inefficient! LED lights produce no infra red light and only visible light so the current draw is greatly reduced as is the heat generated! With LED's, amp draw is insignificant as far as your wiring is concerned.
It's strange, but I can't find any specs on LED pinball lighting that tell you the amp draw! But here is a helpful illustration of bulb brightness...
https://www.cometpinball.com/pages/pinball-led-brightness-chart
* Notice that the 2SMD is brighter than the 4SMD.

#1447 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Don't know off hand, but with incandescent bulbs, the vast majority of light produced is infra red spectrum light which you can't see and why they get so hot. They are incredibly inefficient! LED lights produce no infra red light and only visible light so the current draw is greatly reduced as is the heat generated! With LED's, amp draw is insignificant as far as your wiring is concerned.
It's strange, but I can't find any specs on LED pinball lighting that tell you the amp draw! But here is a helpful illustration of bulb brightness...
https://www.cometpinball.com/pages/pinball-led-brightness-chart
* Notice that the 2SMD is brighter than the 4SMD.

Thank you Sir. I was told that comparing leds to incandescent is a 10 to 1 ratio.

#1448 10 months ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Thank you Sir. I was told that comparing leds to incandescent is a 10 to 1 ratio.

I doubt that, but it's still huge!
Also, remember to use warm white if you want the same look as incandescent bulbs. The new sunlight are nice too. They are a halfway between warm white and cool white. They are brighter and work good for GI if you want your playfield brighter. The only drawback to LED's is they don't ramp up and down in brightness nicely like incandescent (which looks much nicer especially in attract mode) unless you install a LED OCD. If you do this, make sure NOT to use non ghosting LED's as it will mostly defeat the purpose of the LED OCD.
* As far as Williams pins, LED OCD is only available for System 9 on up.

Added 9 months ago:

Also, don't buy warm white form pinball life. They are more like sun light white. I compared them side by side. Way too high temp and not remotely similar to incandescent.

#1449 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I doubt that, but it's still huge!
Also, remember to use warm white if you want the same look as incandescent bulbs. The new sunlight are nice too. They are a halfway between warm white and cool white. They are brighter and work good for GI if you want your playfield brighter. The only drawback to LED's is they don't ramp up and down in brightness nicely like incandescent (which looks much nicer especially in attract mode) unless you install a LED OCD. If you do this, make sure NOT to use non ghosting LED's as it will mostly defeat the purpose of the LED OCD.

My friend just told me a 44 bulb draws 200 ma. and a 2 md draws 30ma. Comes out to about a 7 to 1 ratio. I appreciate all this information. Thanks again for all your input.

#1450 10 months ago

I have some gorgar parts that i'm trying to get rid of:

- new CPR plastic set
- new pop bumper caps
- new drop target decals
- new spinner decal
- vinyl playfield overlay

I'll sell the whole set for $100. I can ship it to you (you pay) or deliver to INDISC next week, or TPF in march.

Added 10 months ago:

Spoken for

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