GORGAR CLUB: Members Only! *THE EVIL PINBALL THAT EATS SOULS*

I did a similar thing with the coin door inserts.. makes it look much better!

Yeah. Those look great

I ordered some of the coin inserts about a month or 2 ago from UPKICK so I assume they are still selling them. I also got some of the Apron Instruction cards from UPKICK as well.

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Well I finally got the sound working again. There were a lot of issues on the board, but it's hard to pinpoint what the main one was. I think the TDA2002 is still the culprit; I can get the sound to come in and out now by wiggling the heatsink. It's mostly on now, but can cut out if the machine vibrates to much. Sound is great otherwise. So far the Bridge Rectifier, 5v regulator, and all caps have been replaced (just fire-hosed the board with the rebuild kit) . I reflowed solder on all the headers and any loose pins I could find on the board. I also removed the RAM and ROM and cleaned all the pins. Continuity checks were all a success. Given that the amp was re-soldered, I'm assuming it's faulty due to the wiggle issue. Maybe someone with more knowledge can weigh in.

I have a set of replacement boards coming from pinpcb, but it was still a fun project and accomplishment to do my first system 6, and first major board repair (TNG opto board doesn't count). Would be nice to get a scope and dive a little deeper, but it felt good to get it back running with a basic multimeter, soldering iron, and parts.

The next part will lean more mechanical. All the drop targets are getting swapped with new plastic and decals (from Marco), the badly scratched glass is getting replaced, and I have a set of spinner decals coming from Australia thanks to Lee and Pinball Rescue. I've noticed a fairly consistent ball bounce from inlane to flipper, so thinking of getting a Cliffy order going as his wonderful parts are preserving our TNG right now.

And the last thing is to maybe get a good score. I'm loving it, but man I suck at Gorgar.

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3d printed some drink holders over the weekend. Next up, maybe stuff to make a decent topper.

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Put on new playfield protector
Playing with some LEDs for effect

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Gotta finish custom apron

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I am doing my first restore on a Gorgar that has not started up in 7 yrs. I was wondering should I replace the magnet or do you guys believe it is good.

I'm sure it'll be fine. Power going to it is controlled by a coil oscillating power on and off. I doubt it's gone bad just not being in use.

Agreed... The magnet will not go bad just because it has not been used. The likely things that can go bad without use are the Caps on the boards.

I have put in a new power supply and I have ordered a new cpu/driver board from pinball pcb waiting for that to come in.

Thanks for the advice.

On my Gorgar there were zero lights behind the backglass, I know some lights flash but I do not know which ones can someone send a picture or tell which ones do flash? Thanks

Pretty sure any of the controlled lamps are the lower ones and any of the ones with a boxing around them.

You dont have a single light coming on in the Backbox? Is there anything displayed in the Player 1 score display like an error code?

I assumed they meant that the backbox was just missing bulbs, They're controlled by 2 different paths. When my GI shorted there were still controlled lights on in the box. If they're all out, yeah definitely a lot more going on.

There were no lights in the sockets when I bought Gorgar.

Gotchya.

A friend and I just went through the process of completely debugging my Gorgar. Everything was going crazy on it and nothing made sense including some issues with the lights. After cleaning up some wiring, replacing a bad coil and etc. it was still doing weird things. When the ball would go over a "roll over" in the lanes towards the bottom of the playfield the game would automatically tilt. Some of the slingshots weren't working and so on. It ended up being bad 40pin processor chips on the Driver Board. Fortunately I recently won an auction and received 5 bad Driver boards and we were able to move some parts around until we found good working chips.

Hey there fellow gorgar owners,

I'm inheritting my dad's gorgar he's had since I was a kid. It has some links to it still such as the fuse blowing everytime we try to start the game. I did throw a few led bulbs in since I had a few left over from my other games. The backglass was pretty torn up so I attempted to touch it up and feel like I did an ok job compared to what it was. Here are a few pics. Fyi the gorgar is actually neon on mine because I used uv lights and filled in the back with neon uv active fingernail polish,

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Uh...that first fuse from the left in the first picture (Yellow wires) seems to be jumped...the fuse underneath looks ok, but it's hard to tell. Either way I'd pull that one out and replace it with a proper fuse. It should be a 20A 6.3v fuse according to the head sticker.

In your second picture, you seem to be missing the solenoid fuse. It's a 2.5A 28v slow blow. It might keep blowing if you've been putting in non-slow blow fuses.

When I did my playfield swap having a few sets of circuit breakers with alligator clips really helps. Ex. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=56

Backglass touch ups look really good - definitely good enough for a players quality game.

If you can solder I would fix all of those fuse holders - it will be hard to address the actual problem with what's there now. Fuse holders on power supply board are pretty tarnished as well, if you are replacing the broken one might as well do all 4.

While you are in there you should add two fuses for the bridge rectifier as seen here posts on 59-67:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2

my gorgar starts more than 1 game when the ball is ejected into the shooter lane. I checked the credit switch and does not seem to be the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated

You know, I get this every now and then as well...I've never been able to pin it down. Maybe 1 out of every 4 single player games it'll kick in a second player at start.

Check the ICs related to the switch matrix. There are four. Two are for outputs to the switches, two are for inputs. I don't have access to the schematics at the moment and I don't recall the ICxx numbers. Two of the four ICs I'm referring to are 4049s

If you want to know more about troubleshooting the switch matrix you can download these test ROMs:

https://pincoder.ca

Check out the 06-switches.txt file in the Williams/sys346 folder. Just reading it may help you understand how the switch matrix works and may help you narrow things down.

I have had this issue on various early SS Williams games. Try cleaning and playing the gapping of the start switch.

Any ETA for the Pincoder Controller?

Still some issues to work out with the prototype. It's coming along though.. slowly.. but it is coming along

Just came in from upkick man looks goods. The coin inserts were $5 dollars each and the cards were $9. Follow pics will come.

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