While this is true, I don't regret buying and installing a whole new playfield. It was a great learning experience and made it easy for me to work on my drop targets and do the flipper swap.

Then again I wasn't looking to it from a value proposition standpoint :p Considering the playfield is over half the price of most machines, I can understand people not being too eager.

Personally I think I'd be more intimidated trying to do a hardtop properly by sanding, trying to line it up, make sure it adheres, and doesn't lift over cupped inserts, etc. Plus I get some nice wall art as a bonus. Maybe I'll do one on another machine someday, I think it's a great option for people though and glad to see it!

I would have been super happy to do the hardtop instead. My new playfield was a mess of a project. But the sanding does seem tricky.

Removed old warped inserts
Cleaned out old adhesive
Touched up edges
About to glue new jeweled inserts

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New

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I will be a Gorgar buyer as soon as I can find a populated playfield.

Does anyone have a pic of their GOR drop target wiring if you used new updated drop target slider boards? can you please post a pic for me please?

I bought a Gorgar I am trying to finish the restoration on and when the G drop target is hit it resets pops back up and scores even if the O and R drop targets are still up.

Also the magnet is not working. It came with the Rottendog mpu driver combo board that I just got back from being repaired. Magnet doesn’t come on with switch. Will test magnet resistance and continuity and switch contacts. It has a new coil for the magnet. Everything else works ok on Gorgar. Thanks for any help.

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Sorry...I've only got the old wiring on mine. I'm not the best with colors so this image didn't help me much, but maybe it'll be useful to you?
https://www.siegecraft.us/pinball/images/AK-02-010.JPG

Awesome!! Do I still need to use the original diodes or no? Thanks so much!

I'm not sure where you bought yours or how you happened upon them. I personally don't have them, but siegecraft says they use all surface mount parts and if you order from them it says to let them know what game it's for. I assume to set up the diodes properly before you get them as you wouldn't be able to reuse the originals well.

The instructions I found for the wiring ->
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I have a Rottendog board and the magnet works as it should in Gorgar.

It came already with Gorgar when I bought it. I looked at mine and the boards for GOR are out of order when compared to the illustration. Previous owner kept the original diodes on when he put the new boards on.

Thank you!

Going to check the magnet for continuity and make sure it’s still good. Also going to check the switch.

Does anyone have the original Magnet Part # to replace the whole magnet?
Thank you

This is the one I used on our Gorgar. Perfect fit.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9247

Awesome... Thank You

Then as long as the surface mount ones are in the right places, you can probably just remove the through hole ones - assuming I'm understanding correctly.

Here’s how it’s wired with the original diodes in. Can I just solder the wires to the board directly without the diodes or just keep them there? Hopefully the photo clarifies it better.

The boards are also in the wrong order so that’s probably why the G drop target resets everything when it drops regardless if the O and R are up.

Also magnet not working. Have continuity but reading zero ohms. Should there be an ohm reading? Thank you so much

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Here’s how it’s wired with the original diodes in. Can I just solder the wires to the board directly without the diodes or just keep them there? Hopefully the photo clarifies it better.

The boards are also in the wrong order so that’s probably why the G drop target resets everything when it drops regardless if the O and R are up.

Also magnet not working. Have continuity but reading zero ohms. I assume there should be an ohm reading of 4.5

I'm honestly a bit confused on the drop target setup, but yeah it's definitely not right. I'd unscrew them from the drop assembly so you can get them a bit more free and easier to see.

As for your magnet have you traced the button press to the solenoid that quickly feathers power to the magnet via the leaf switch reeds (I may be using the wrong terminology)

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I pulled the magnet and getting 0 ohms and it’s black towards the center. Will check the wires on the switch. Will look for some pics online to compare to mine unless you have one? Also will check my manual. Thanks for your help.

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So, I have 1 wire from the leaf switch end just to the magnet. It looks like from the leaf switch, a diode to the red wire and to the end of the fuse. Then the other magnet wire goes straight to the end of the fuse.

Sorry for the weird angles, this was from my playfield disassembly.

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Thanks so much! I cleaned the switch contacts for the magnet in the snake pit. When the switch was a hit the magnet relay coil fires now. So looks like all I need to do is get the magnet and that issue will be fixed. Hopefully anyway.

I'd imagine. I'd be pretty surprised if the magnet itself were dead.

Getting 0 ohms on the magnet. Should there be any resistance on it? I have continuity though.

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Zero ohms is a short... which isn't good. The black you said you see means it probably overheated and melted the coating off the winding so it shorted.

Put magnet back in and now it’s working oddly enough. Prior before I put magnet back in 20 amp fuse blew for GI and now lost all GI. When I turn game on with another 20 amp fuse it got orange hot. I Turned it off before it blew. Was working fine and so damn close to getting this Gorgar 100%. This is the hardest restoration for me to get going and working fully. Thanks for the help

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I can sympathize just went through the same GI issue. These were the things I did

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-back-from-the-dead-and-terrifying/page/25#post-5866138

If I were to guess it was either a connector issue from my playfield swap or an exposed wire short through the insulation that I never found. Has been going well ever since however. I would recommend some mini circuit breakers. I forget where I bought mine, but those with some alligator clips will save a lot of fuses.

thank you so very much! I will go through and remove each bulb on the Playfield after I pull the harness and turn it on and see if the fuse blows or not. Then same for the back box. It’s crazy it worked and then stopped.

Definitely has to be a wire on the Playfield since it’s been up and down a few times. Need to go Sherlock Holmes and do some detective work. So damn close to being done. Did full restoration with pinball Pimp stencils and just want to finally enjoy the game.

Would you bother to replace the magnet? Mine is working but I am reading 0 ohms on it. I assume it’s not the strongest magnet regardless. Mine looks like it shorted at some point and is black on the center. See pic I posted. My gut says if it’s working leave it alone.

Thanks again for the reply, really appreciate it!

Ok here’s what is going on with my GI fuse blowing. I unsoldered all the wires and isolated which one was blowing the fuse. It’s the yellow wire for the play field GI.
I soldered just that wire back to the fuse and I Pulled all the lights out with the playfield propped up resting where the lock down bar goes. Put one light in at a time and all the GI lights worked and fuse didn’t blow.
When I go to put the playfield down near to the down position, it starts to short the GI fuse and lights go out. I raise it up and it’s ok. So at this point not sure what it’s coming in contact with to cause it to short out. Can’t see any wires being pinched or anything obvious.
Got the magnet to work and the GOR drop target. Only thing I did prior to 20 amp GI fuse blowing was to screw the C upper play field roll over light socket to the play field.

Found out what was causing the short. The GI braided wire was coming in contact with one of the screws that screw into the wood trim.

Now I lost lights on row 5 and found bad resistor at R134 2J7 on Rottendog MPU/Driver combo board. Changed out resistor and swapped out working resistor to R134 to verify and lights work now. Anyone have idea what resistor this is? According to resistor calculator it’s a 0.62 ohm 5% but can’t find one or the schematics to confirm.

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Yeah...this is my problem too. Partial colorblindness and resistor value identification are not my forte let alone wattage value identification. I forget the company that just bought out rottendog's stuff but I know he has a ton of unpopulated boards, so the schematics are somewhere.

Had the guy who does my board work verify the resistor for me. Definitely 0.62 ohm. Wasn’t sure if band was silver or grey

Master display went out and found a burnt resistor and some other bad ones. Would you repair 41 year old board or buy a new xpin display kit and no worries about the board going out?

Have to put in new magnet and wait for Rottendog mpu driver board resistor to arrive. This Gorgar restoration will hopefully get finished at some point. Fix one problem then a new one pops up. Taking forever.

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I had a similar problem and decided to go with the XPIN kit. I was able to get it for $179.99 NEW on ebay from BIG DADDY! I sold my original displays and was able to get $35 + shipping for each of the Player displays which paid for a big chunk of the New kit. I have not sold my Master Display yet but plan on doing that soon.

I ordered the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like them? Thanks for your reply.

I ordered the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like the xpin displays? Thanks for your reply

I sold the Slave Displays individually and they all sold within 3 weeks. My Master works but it is having issues with it's own display so I will have to try and sell that AS-IS. I am not sure what I can get for that. It works and sends the correct signal to all of the Slave Displays but the display on itself flickers and does a few goofy things. I didn't want to mess with it and figured LED is the way to go now days. I like the XPIN setup. Very very easy install. The owner of the company is absolutely incredible to deal with. If I remember correctly his name is Brett. The guy talked to me on the phone for an hour just chatting about the Pinball world. Really Cool individual.

That’s so cool that he is so laid back and very approachable and easy to talk to. That definitely is a great plus for me. Can’t wait to get them. Definitely happy I went with the new displays. Thank you.Appreciate the replies and feedback. Will post when I receive them.

Yeah, Brett is pretty easy going. Definitely has a passion for the hobby. He was helping me with a power supply issue on a Firepower. Turned out that the original was totally shot. Took it out of the game and there were 5 wires soldered on the bottom to various points and one of them was between fuse clips. Decided that trying to fix it was not worth it and grabbed one his XP-WMS8345 power supplies instead. A working supply definitely helps finding out what was wrong. Having guys like him working to keep the games going is a great thing for the hobby!

Hello fellow Pinsiders! I just picked up a Gorgar yesterday! It's my second pin this year, and the second total. My GF and I bought a TNG earlier this year, but I've been on the lookout for an early SS with fun art. Got a good deal for a reasonably nice machine; the cab was repainted at some point and the playfield looks good despite some wear (no bad wear-through though). Backglass is okay, good amount of flaking, but it's nice to know there are reproductions for both out there.

Played about 6 games last night before something in the sound system blew. Getting a persistent hum from the speaker when I turn it on and I can hear warbled sounds at high volume, but that's it. I re-soldered the connectors last night (a few were pretty bad) and got consistent power but same issue, and the diagnostic isn't working. I'm getting +7V, -12V, and ~+3V on the sounds board right now (fuses are good), so I suspect it may be a rectifier issue, but I have a lot more reading and troubleshooting to do. Ordered new glass, pop-ups, ball, and a sound card rebuild kit for now. I'll spring for replacement boards if necessary, but figuring this out is half the fun right?

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Congrats on joining the club! You already have me beat on the tech support, but there’s a ton of smart people on here who can help!

Awesome, thanks! I figure I should suffer through a week or two of research and troubleshooting before I bug anyone here. There's a lot of system 6-7 sound threads out there haha. It's also half the reason to own a pin. Glad to be here!

Yeah, the playfield looks pretty good. What's with the button by the eyeball? Someone added a credit button?

Nice Buy!!

While I haven't yet written any sound board test ROMs, I did use my own Gorgar to write these diagnostic ROMs:

https://pincoder.ca

There is a sound test included, but its more about the communication between the MPU board and the sound board. Your game's issue seems to be strictly within the sound card itself.

When you're ready to start checking over everything else (MPU/Driver board, CPU, RAM, CMOS, etc) these ROMs will come in handy. The Williams built-in diagnostics are quite limited and sometimes give false-positives..

The ROM images are free - you can just download them directly. There's also documentation for each test so you'll really get to know your machine

If you are new to the ROM world, this adapter comes with the ROM images already installed so there's no need to buy EPROM chips and a chip burner. You just pop it into the machine and go:

https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/

Congrats again on your Gorgar!

Craig

Oh, you know what? I didn't pay much attention to it, but it's not stock is it? Near as I can tell it doesn't do anything. I'll take a closer look.

Craig (@pincoder), this is amazing! Thanks so much. I'll be sure to dive through this anyway just for fun.

Not sure if these exist in the wild already, but I'm making a go at some coin inserts. I've seen these before, and I believe Upkick did a set at some point, but I can't find them anywhere. Guessing it's probably Williams licensing issues if they can't be bought anywhere?

Anyway, I loved the look and wanted something I could throw in without destroying the coin door functionality or modifying anything. I like the OEM inserts just fine, but mine are a little beat-up. It looks like the original parts were screen printed on a piece of cast or machined acrylic. I imagine these could be laser cut as well, but the coin chute pocket would require engraving or another process. I'm playing with processes I can do myself at the moment, so I have access to SLA (printing a test part now) and a CNC mill if all else fails. The images were drawn up in SolidWorks actually (I'm bad with vector art), but I'm going to try a front adhesive transparent sticker from the backside. For now, I just inkjetted some test pieces and glued them to rough-cut polycarb, but I think the OE red bars are getting canned (too busy looking).

If it doesn't work, no big deal, but fun diversion while I wait for sound board parts.

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