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(Topic ID: 62108)

GORGAR CLUB: Members Only! *THE EVIL PINBALL THAT EATS SOULS*


By Jared

7 years ago



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  • 1,292 posts
  • 178 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by BallyKISS1978
  • Topic is favorited by 74 Pinsiders

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There are 1292 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 26.
#1251 31 days ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Awesome news about the hardtops. I added one to my Christmas list.
I do wish the companies licensing Williams stuff were more upfront about what's coming. I asked some time ago in a hardtop thread when CPR had Gorgar on the pipeline if there could be a Gorgar hardtop. The response from the company was that there would never be a hardtop for a title being produced (or planned) by another pf manufacturer, but this Gorgar release is in direct contradiction to that statement.
Someone who had read that prior to the Gorgar hardtop would think the recent pf release was going to be the only option. Personally, I think hardtop is more in line with the overall value of a Gorgar, so I'm glad I didn't jump on a pf when those came out.

While this is true, I don't regret buying and installing a whole new playfield. It was a great learning experience and made it easy for me to work on my drop targets and do the flipper swap.

Then again I wasn't looking to it from a value proposition standpoint :p Considering the playfield is over half the price of most machines, I can understand people not being too eager.

Personally I think I'd be more intimidated trying to do a hardtop properly by sanding, trying to line it up, make sure it adheres, and doesn't lift over cupped inserts, etc. Plus I get some nice wall art as a bonus. Maybe I'll do one on another machine someday, I think it's a great option for people though and glad to see it!

#1252 31 days ago

I would have been super happy to do the hardtop instead. My new playfield was a mess of a project. But the sanding does seem tricky.

#1253 30 days ago

Removed old warped inserts
Cleaned out old adhesive
Touched up edges
About to glue new jeweled inserts

20201025_174427 (resized).jpg20201025_174446 (resized).jpg20201025_174502 (resized).jpg
#1254 30 days ago

New

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#1255 30 days ago
Quoted from danczaz:

I know you don’t have to convince Outside Edge that there should be a hardtop for any pin that a “hardtop is more in line with the overall value” of said machine... Hopefully people continue to buy Firepower and Gorgar and show that there is a market for hardtops and repro playfields and this leads for more licensing opportunities of Williams titles. I would love a Flash hardtop!!!

I will be a Gorgar buyer as soon as I can find a populated playfield.

2 weeks later
#1256 15 days ago

Does anyone have a pic of their GOR drop target wiring if you used new updated drop target slider boards? can you please post a pic for me please?

I bought a Gorgar I am trying to finish the restoration on and when the G drop target is hit it resets pops back up and scores even if the O and R drop targets are still up.

Also the magnet is not working. It came with the Rottendog mpu driver combo board that I just got back from being repaired. Magnet doesn’t come on with switch. Will test magnet resistance and continuity and switch contacts. It has a new coil for the magnet. Everything else works ok on Gorgar. Thanks for any help.

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#1257 15 days ago

Sorry...I've only got the old wiring on mine. I'm not the best with colors so this image didn't help me much, but maybe it'll be useful to you?
https://www.siegecraft.us/pinball/images/AK-02-010.JPG

#1258 15 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Sorry...I've only got the old wiring on mine. I'm not the best with colors so this image didn't help me much, but maybe it'll be useful to you?
https://www.siegecraft.us/pinball/images/AK-02-010.JPG

Awesome!! Do I still need to use the original diodes or no? Thanks so much!

#1259 14 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Awesome!! Do I still need to use the original diodes or no? Thanks so much!

I'm not sure where you bought yours or how you happened upon them. I personally don't have them, but siegecraft says they use all surface mount parts and if you order from them it says to let them know what game it's for. I assume to set up the diodes properly before you get them as you wouldn't be able to reuse the originals well.

#1260 14 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

GOR drop target wiring

The instructions I found for the wiring ->
Gorgar (resized).JPG

#1261 14 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

the magnet is not working. It came with the Rottendog mpu driver

I have a Rottendog board and the magnet works as it should in Gorgar.

#1262 14 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I'm not sure where you bought yours or how you happened upon them. I personally don't have them, but siegecraft says they use all surface mount parts and if you order from them it says to let them know what game it's for. I assume to set up the diodes properly before you get them as you wouldn't be able to reuse the originals well.

It came already with Gorgar when I bought it. I looked at mine and the boards for GOR are out of order when compared to the illustration. Previous owner kept the original diodes on when he put the new boards on.

#1263 14 days ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

The instructions I found for the wiring ->
[quoted image]

Thank you!

#1264 14 days ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

I have a Rottendog board and the magnet works as it should in Gorgar.

Going to check the magnet for continuity and make sure it’s still good. Also going to check the switch.

#1265 14 days ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

The instructions I found for the wiring ->
[quoted image]

Nice find.

#1266 14 days ago

Does anyone have the original Magnet Part # to replace the whole magnet?
Thank you

#1267 14 days ago
Quoted from Cudasales:

Does anyone have the original Magnet Part # to replace the whole magnet?
Thank you

This is the one I used on our Gorgar. Perfect fit.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9247

#1268 13 days ago

Awesome... Thank You

Quoted from JeffF:

This is the one I used on our Gorgar. Perfect fit.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9247

#1269 13 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

It came already with Gorgar when I bought it. I looked at mine and the boards for GOR are out of order when compared to the illustration. Previous owner kept the original diodes on when he put the new boards on.

Then as long as the surface mount ones are in the right places, you can probably just remove the through hole ones - assuming I'm understanding correctly.

#1270 13 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Then as long as the surface mount ones are in the right places, you can probably just remove the through hole ones - assuming I'm understanding correctly.

Here’s how it’s wired with the original diodes in. Can I just solder the wires to the board directly without the diodes or just keep them there? Hopefully the photo clarifies it better.

The boards are also in the wrong order so that’s probably why the G drop target resets everything when it drops regardless if the O and R are up.

Also magnet not working. Have continuity but reading zero ohms. Should there be an ohm reading? Thank you so much

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#1271 12 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Then as long as the surface mount ones are in the right places, you can probably just remove the through hole ones - assuming I'm understanding correctly.

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Here’s how it’s wired with the original diodes in. Can I just solder the wires to the board directly without the diodes or just keep them there? Hopefully the photo clarifies it better.

The boards are also in the wrong order so that’s probably why the G drop target resets everything when it drops regardless if the O and R are up.

Also magnet not working. Have continuity but reading zero ohms. I assume there should be an ohm reading of 4.5

#1272 12 days ago

I'm honestly a bit confused on the drop target setup, but yeah it's definitely not right. I'd unscrew them from the drop assembly so you can get them a bit more free and easier to see.

As for your magnet have you traced the button press to the solenoid that quickly feathers power to the magnet via the leaf switch reeds (I may be using the wrong terminology)

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#1273 12 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I'm honestly a bit confused on the drop target setup, but yeah it's definitely not right. I'd unscrew them from the drop assembly so you can get them a bit more free and easier to see.
As for your magnet have you traced the button press to the solenoid that quickly feathers power to the magnet via the leaf switch reeds (I may be using the wrong terminology)
[quoted image]

I pulled the magnet and getting 0 ohms and it’s black towards the center. Will check the wires on the switch. Will look for some pics online to compare to mine unless you have one? Also will check my manual. Thanks for your help.

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#1274 12 days ago

So, I have 1 wire from the leaf switch end just to the magnet. It looks like from the leaf switch, a diode to the red wire and to the end of the fuse. Then the other magnet wire goes straight to the end of the fuse.

Sorry for the weird angles, this was from my playfield disassembly.

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#1275 11 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

So, I have 1 wire from the leaf switch end just to the magnet. It looks like from the leaf switch, a diode to the red wire and to the end of the fuse. Then the other magnet wire goes straight to the end of the fuse.
Sorry for the weird angles, this was from my playfield disassembly.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks so much! I cleaned the switch contacts for the magnet in the snake pit. When the switch was a hit the magnet relay coil fires now. So looks like all I need to do is get the magnet and that issue will be fixed. Hopefully anyway.

#1276 11 days ago

I'd imagine. I'd be pretty surprised if the magnet itself were dead.

#1277 11 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I'd imagine. I'd be pretty surprised if the magnet itself were dead.

Getting 0 ohms on the magnet. Should there be any resistance on it? I have continuity though.

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#1278 11 days ago

Zero ohms is a short... which isn't good. The black you said you see means it probably overheated and melted the coating off the winding so it shorted.

#1279 11 days ago
Quoted from JeffF:

Zero ohms is a short... which isn't good. The black you said you see means it probably overheated and melted the coating off the winding so it shorted.

Put magnet back in and now it’s working oddly enough. Prior before I put magnet back in 20 amp fuse blew for GI and now lost all GI. When I turn game on with another 20 amp fuse it got orange hot. I Turned it off before it blew. Was working fine and so damn close to getting this Gorgar 100%. This is the hardest restoration for me to get going and working fully. Thanks for the help

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#1280 11 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Put magnet back in and now it’s working oddly enough. Prior before I put magnet back in 20 amp fuse blew for GI and now lost all GI. When I turn game on with another 20 amp fuse it got orange hot. I Turned it off before it blew. Was working fine and so damn close to getting this Gorgar 100%. This is the hardest restoration for me to get going and working fully. Thanks for the help
[quoted image]

I can sympathize just went through the same GI issue. These were the things I did

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-back-from-the-dead-and-terrifying/page/25#post-5866138

If I were to guess it was either a connector issue from my playfield swap or an exposed wire short through the insulation that I never found. Has been going well ever since however. I would recommend some mini circuit breakers. I forget where I bought mine, but those with some alligator clips will save a lot of fuses.

#1281 11 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I can sympathize just went through the same GI issue. These were the things I did
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-back-from-the-dead-and-terrifying/page/25#post-5866138
If I were to guess it was either a connector issue from my playfield swap or an exposed wire short through the insulation that I never found. Has been going well ever since however. I would recommend some mini circuit breakers. I forget where I bought mine, but those with some alligator clips will save a lot of fuses.

thank you so very much! I will go through and remove each bulb on the Playfield after I pull the harness and turn it on and see if the fuse blows or not. Then same for the back box. It’s crazy it worked and then stopped.

Definitely has to be a wire on the Playfield since it’s been up and down a few times. Need to go Sherlock Holmes and do some detective work. So damn close to being done. Did full restoration with pinball Pimp stencils and just want to finally enjoy the game.

Would you bother to replace the magnet? Mine is working but I am reading 0 ohms on it. I assume it’s not the strongest magnet regardless. Mine looks like it shorted at some point and is black on the center. See pic I posted. My gut says if it’s working leave it alone.

Thanks again for the reply, really appreciate it!

#1282 10 days ago

Ok here’s what is going on with my GI fuse blowing. I unsoldered all the wires and isolated which one was blowing the fuse. It’s the yellow wire for the play field GI.
I soldered just that wire back to the fuse and I Pulled all the lights out with the playfield propped up resting where the lock down bar goes. Put one light in at a time and all the GI lights worked and fuse didn’t blow.
When I go to put the playfield down near to the down position, it starts to short the GI fuse and lights go out. I raise it up and it’s ok. So at this point not sure what it’s coming in contact with to cause it to short out. Can’t see any wires being pinched or anything obvious.
Got the magnet to work and the GOR drop target. Only thing I did prior to 20 amp GI fuse blowing was to screw the C upper play field roll over light socket to the play field.

#1283 4 days ago

Found out what was causing the short. The GI braided wire was coming in contact with one of the screws that screw into the wood trim.

Now I lost lights on row 5 and found bad resistor at R134 2J7 on Rottendog MPU/Driver combo board. Changed out resistor and swapped out working resistor to R134 to verify and lights work now. Anyone have idea what resistor this is? According to resistor calculator it’s a 0.62 ohm 5% but can’t find one or the schematics to confirm.

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#1284 3 days ago

Yeah...this is my problem too. Partial colorblindness and resistor value identification are not my forte let alone wattage value identification. I forget the company that just bought out rottendog's stuff but I know he has a ton of unpopulated boards, so the schematics are somewhere.

#1285 3 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Yeah...this is my problem too. Partial colorblindness and resistor value identification are not my forte let alone wattage value identification. I forget the company that just bought out rottendog's stuff but I know he has a ton of unpopulated boards, so the schematics are somewhere.

Had the guy who does my board work verify the resistor for me. Definitely 0.62 ohm. Wasn’t sure if band was silver or grey

#1286 3 days ago

Master display went out and found a burnt resistor and some other bad ones. Would you repair 41 year old board or buy a new xpin display kit and no worries about the board going out?

Have to put in new magnet and wait for Rottendog mpu driver board resistor to arrive. This Gorgar restoration will hopefully get finished at some point. Fix one problem then a new one pops up. Taking forever.

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#1287 2 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Master display went out and found a burnt resistor and some other bad ones. Would you repair 41 year old board or buy a new xpin display kit and no worries about the board going out?
Have to put in new magnet and wait for Rottendog mpu driver board resistor to arrive. This Gorgar restoration will hopefully get finished at some point. Fix one problem then a new one pops up. Taking forever.
[quoted image]

I had a similar problem and decided to go with the XPIN kit. I was able to get it for $179.99 NEW on ebay from BIG DADDY! I sold my original displays and was able to get $35 + shipping for each of the Player displays which paid for a big chunk of the New kit. I have not sold my Master Display yet but plan on doing that soon.

#1288 2 days ago
Quoted from Cudasales:

I had a similar problem and decided to go with the XPIN kit. I was able to get it for $179.99 NEW on ebay from BIG DADDY! I sold my original displays and was able to get $35 + shipping for each of the Player displays which paid for a big chunk of the New kit. I have not sold my Master Display yet but plan on doing that soon.

I ordered the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like them? Thanks for your reply.

#1289 2 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

I decided to order the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like them? Thanks for your reply.

#1290 2 days ago
Quoted from Cudasales:

I had a similar problem and decided to go with the XPIN kit. I was able to get it for $179.99 NEW on ebay from BIG DADDY! I sold my original displays and was able to get $35 + shipping for each of the Player displays which paid for a big chunk of the New kit. I have not sold my Master Display yet but plan on doing that soon.

I ordered the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like the xpin displays? Thanks for your reply

#1291 2 days ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

I ordered the XPIN on eBay from same seller. Had in my cart and he offered it for $179. Glad I did it. You did well on the slave displays. I will do the same. Selling 4 slaves definitely takes a big chunk of the cost from the xpin cost. How do you like the xpin displays? Thanks for your reply

I sold the Slave Displays individually and they all sold within 3 weeks. My Master works but it is having issues with it's own display so I will have to try and sell that AS-IS. I am not sure what I can get for that. It works and sends the correct signal to all of the Slave Displays but the display on itself flickers and does a few goofy things. I didn't want to mess with it and figured LED is the way to go now days. I like the XPIN setup. Very very easy install. The owner of the company is absolutely incredible to deal with. If I remember correctly his name is Brett. The guy talked to me on the phone for an hour just chatting about the Pinball world. Really Cool individual.

#1292 2 days ago
Quoted from Cudasales:

I sold the Slave Displays individually and they all sold within 3 weeks. My Master works but it is having issues with it's own display so I will have to try and sell that AS-IS. I am not sure what I can get for that. It works and sends the correct signal to all of the Slave Displays but the display on itself flickers and does a few goofy things. I didn't want to mess with it and figured LED is the way to go now days. I like the XPIN setup. Very very easy install. The owner of the company is absolutely incredible to deal with. If I remember correctly his name is Brett. The guy talked to me on the phone for an hour just chatting about the Pinball world. Really Cool individual.

That’s so cool that he is so laid back and very approachable and easy to talk to. That definitely is a great plus for me. Can’t wait to get them. Definitely happy I went with the new displays. Thank you.Appreciate the replies and feedback. Will post when I receive them.

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