(Topic ID: 62108)

GORGAR CLUB: Members Only! *THE EVIL PINBALL THAT EATS SOULS*


By Jared

6 years ago



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There are 1143 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 23.
#701 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I've only had the game a month and can't stop playing it. Get's 10x more plays than any other game in my collection now... I suspect some of that is the newness, but I really can't see it wearing off anytime soon.
The reason I quoted the CPR question is that I also put my interest in via email to CPR (does anyone know if you are supposed to get an acknowledgement? because I didn’t). Anyway... game was clean when I set it up and didn't have to do a single thing to it (thanks fatpanda for keeping everything in top notch shape). Finally got around to doing a quick cleaning and waxing and wow does the ball zip now. Of course, slower than my newer games, but much faster for a Gorgar than it was before. I could maybe get 10-15 spins on an average spinner rip before, but now can easily get 25+ on a solid hit. I'm crediting this to a faster ball with a freshly waxed playfield since that's all I did. Didn't have my teflon lube handy, so no lube on the spinner rod... but thinking that maybe a small drop would make it even better. How many spins are people typically getting? And I can hardly even imagine how much smoother that ball will be zipping around on a brand new clear coated playfield... come on CPR!!

I took fine grit sandpaper to the legs of the spinner and just the thinnest of coating of super lube when i first got it. After a fresh wax and clean, i could get a couple dozen spins on a "weak" shot. I think if you got some fresh lube on it, you could probably get that spinner going on a strong shot for sure. Glad to hear you're enjoying it! I miss it indeed.

#702 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I took fine grit sandpaper to the legs of the spinner and just the thinnest of coating of super lube when i first got it. After a fresh wax and clean, i could get a couple dozen spins on a "weak" shot. I think if you got some fresh lube on it, you could probably get that spinner going on a strong shot for sure. Glad to hear you're enjoying it! I miss it indeed.

A solid hit gets 35-40 on my spinner.
I just clean the rods and use a light oil on the contacting surfaces.
A good clean switch is important too..

1 week later
#703 2 years ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

audio to go in and out

fascinating. I might have to try that with firepower...

#704 2 years ago

I am looking for a little help with a Gorgar Service Bulletin #SS 20. The bulletin pertains to the solenoid ground wire in Gorgar. The intermittent problems I am having with my pin I believe is with this ground wire issue.

First, the bulletin states if the ground wire a 3j3 is 22 gauge, disconnect and directly solder to the negative terminal of 6C1 (I believe that is a typo and should be c16). Indeed my ground wire connection is 22 gauge wire. So this is an easy enough issue to address

Second, and this is where I think the problem is, are the ground wires at the magnet relay. The service bulletin states:

1) separate and remove the black wires connected to the contacts of the magnet relay
2) determine which wire is connected to the terminal strip and reconnect this lead to the relay contact
3) cut the other lead back to the harness and insulate with electrical tape
4) take 18 gauge wire and terminate one end with a spade lug
5)solder the other end of this wire to the terminal with the black lead on the magnet lamp terminal strip
6) connect the spade lug under the wing nut in the backbox with the ground braid from the cabinet.

Below is a pictre of the contacts on the magnet relay. Indeed the contacts appear soldered together. From the picture it is also easy to tell which black wire is connected back to the terminal strip.

I have two questions. First, where or what is the "magnet lamp terminal strip" mentioned in point 5 above? I see no black wires connected to any lamps associate with the magnet. Second, point 1 states that I should remove the black wires connected to the contacts on the magnet relay. These are the only wires connected to that switch. They also have a diode connected to an orange wire coming from an underneath PF fuse. Do I leave the diode connected via the orange wire? In point 2, to which relay contact do I reconnect the black wire coming from the terminal strip - since the contacts are originally soldered together do I resolder those two contacts and connect the wire to both?

IMG_3550 (resized).JPG

#705 2 years ago

In the club, but frustrated with the flakiness of this game.

Game was working correctly. Had lost sound, found out speaker wire connection separated. Resoldered, played fine. Played several games and then the sound went out again. Thought perhaps my solder joint failed, but it was ok.

In diagnostic sound test, after pressing the test button, I hear 3 thump thump thump laser sounds, (which is typical when properly working) then a high pitched siren rather than the remaining sounds and speech. Speaker is working.

Start a game and sometimes it starts off with “ you beat me”, but most of the time, almost every switch says Gorgar very faintly with no heartbeat sound. Other times the heartbeat does run and after the game ends the heartbeat keep running in attract mode.

It’s weird. What suddenly failed?

Thanks in advance for help.

#706 2 years ago

That's a crazy problem. I had on off sound, some incorrect noises and a host of other really bizarre intermittent issues and nearly everything was resolved by reflowing solder on every single board's connectors. I replaced sound board caps at the same time but I'm not convinced that was it.

#707 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballcorpse:

What suddenly failed?

Did you replace the ROM socket?

#708 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballcorpse:

What suddenly failed?

Sound board CPU or ROM sockets.

Cold solder joint on sound card or driver board.

Bad wiring connector on sound card or driver board.

1 month later
#709 2 years ago

Big announcement from CPR that should allow for getting Gorgar playfields sooner than the current business model. Time will tell...

#711 2 years ago

I saw that but until it happens.

#712 2 years ago

Going to start restoring my Gorgar , Displays and all the boards.Who should I buy from ? Thanks

#713 2 years ago

My take on the CPR announcement as it relates to the Gorgar PF is that nothing is changing that will impact the current PF process for new runs. Initial runs of PFs will still be silk screened, and then future orders of previously screened pfs can be run as one-offs. Assuming they keep with the original process, and assuming they don't downgrade Gorgar PF to boutique made-to-order level because of low number of interested buyers, I think we're still going to be waiting a while.

#714 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

... I think we're still going to be waiting a while.

That’s what I’m afraid of too. What we need is a good restore thread by HEP or similar with a restored or NOS playfield for this title. That would push up interest and maybe more people out there would commit to a preorder? Or is there one out there already that we can all start posting to in order to generate interest.

Me love Gorgar. Gorgar need playfield.

#715 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

That’s what I’m afraid of too. What we need is a good restore thread by HEP or similar with a restored or NOS playfield for this title. That would push up interest and maybe more people out there would commit to a preorder? Or is there one out there already that we can all start posting to in order to generate interest.
Me love Gorgar. Gorgar need playfield.

In rereading all the cpr stuff, I’m afraid you guys are correct. I believe this is a first run for cpr, therefore nothing changes. Ugh.

#716 2 years ago

I think Gorgar will have his 50th birthday before we see a playfield.I put in for a couple ,they need a 100 orders and there not there yet. You would think pps,marco, other venders would make it happen.
Gorgar is a classic .come on man !

#717 2 years ago

Gorgar fans and owners ???
Im starting a full restoration on a Gorgar
Nos Hep playfield and everything new top to bottom
Want to do a different trim on cabinet ?
Thinking Black powdercoat all the trim ??

And other thoughts ? Or photos PM me or post

#718 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

In rereading all the cpr stuff, I’m afraid you guys are correct. I believe this is a first run for cpr, therefore nothing changes. Ugh.

Didn't they do a run of 50 playfields a while back?

#719 2 years ago
Quoted from dirkdiggler:

Didn't they do a run of 50 playfields a while back?

I hope so, but I haven’t gotten any word. And it seems that they were waiting till a certain number of preorders came in which leads me to believe they don’t have the art readily available.

#720 2 years ago

If I was doing a full restore I'd have to think about that custom cabinet art from earlier in the thread. Not sure if black or red would be a better hardware accent either way.

#721 2 years ago

Thought about new artwork changed my direction
Starting stripping cab today, my only bummer is
4 kids, my own business limits my work time .What a better way to start ? A zolotone cabinet. But to my surprise to the poplar wood cab sands out like glass !
More photos to follow

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1 week later
#722 2 years ago

Thoughts on the lane change rom for this game? You get a-b-c just two times you are already maxed out at 3x. I don't believe there are any rewards for completing them after that? It doesn't seem it would change ball times any, just potentially higher scores & more fun with the lane change?

#723 2 years ago

Without the lane change feature, it takes more skill to plunge/nudge into the lane you want. It would be too easy to max out the bonus X if you could lane change. If you can do it nearly every time, it no longer matters.

#724 2 years ago
Quoted from robx46:

Thoughts on the lane change rom for this game?

It would make the max bonus too easy for every ball.

#725 2 years ago
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:

Without the lane change feature, it takes more skill to plunge/nudge into the lane you want. It would be too easy to max out the bonus X if you could lane change. If you can do it nearly every time, it no longer matters.

Quoted from Impzilla:

It would make the max bonus too easy for every ball.

Agreed. It does feel like it’s missing the lane change after becoming so used to it with many other games but I like my Gorgar challenging....and that just wouldn’t be Gorgar.

#726 2 years ago

Right. Might make more sense if you could build past 3x.

#727 2 years ago
Quoted from robx46:

lane change rom

Or better yet, remove the one-way gate, and increase the difficulty.
-mof

#728 2 years ago

I need it tougher! I'm an average player at best & after a handful of games on this machine I've already neared 800k. Thinking maybe set 1-4 targets to need hit in order. I'm sure that will do it.

#729 2 years ago
Quoted from robx46:

I've already neared 800k

Max on my gorgar is 825k I think with the one-way out.
-mof

#730 2 years ago

I've got it maxed out on pitch, tight tilt and haven't rolled it over yet. Somewhere in the 800k range I think. Such brutal outlanes on the machine. Any time it neers the right side, down it goes

#731 2 years ago

If your gorgar is easy adjust your slings so that if a ball even grazes em they fire. The outlanes are brutal.

#732 2 years ago

I've found that having to hit 1-4 in sequence really balances out both the scores & the rules. & I set specials to just award credits, as well as high score threshold to credits. That way I can only get the EB through the drops.
Now I've reset my high scores & away I go!

#733 2 years ago

I do the special for 50k but no extra balls except the saucer. Works well and gives you an extra incentive to get the stars & hit the roving arrow. I think there's another special in an outlane but I must have it turned off as I don't think it's ever been lit.

1 week later
#734 2 years ago

Hey folks! Just bought my first pin - it's a non-working Gorgar. On start up it has what I've been told by someone, is an error msg that means the batteries or Ram is bad. I'm a total newb with zero tech experience but my pinsider buddy and I are gonna try and figure that out this week some time. Just wanted to pop in and say hi. So Hi!

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#735 2 years ago

Congrats! I’m sure it will fire right up. Seems like that ram error had more to do with coin door interlock or something like that. I can’t remember where I think I heard that from though...

#736 2 years ago
Quoted from WinstonH:

Hey folks! Just bought my first pin - it's a non-working Gorgar. On start up it has what I've been told by someone, is an error msg that means the batteries or Ram is bad. I'm a total newb with zero tech experience but my pinsider buddy and I are gonna try and figure that out this week some time. Just wanted to pop in and say hi. So Hi!
[quoted image]

Hopefully the batteries haven't taken a crap on your board. Try rapidly flipping the power switch on/off/on and see if it boots. I think the coin door needs to be open. If it does replace the batteries on the main board. You should check vids guide on system 6. Don't forget to add fuses to the rectifiers. Gorgar is a great game.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

#737 2 years ago

I finally got around to reattaching the head on Gorgar and playing a few rounds. Some switches weren't working, and the front drop targets are dragging on the new rubber. Oh, and the speech board is not connected. I haven't found the time to solder in a new 40 pin connector.
But, aside from that, it played ok.

#738 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Congrats! I’m sure it will fire right up. Seems like that ram error had more to do with coin door interlock or something like that. I can’t remember where I think I heard that from though...

I tried that to no avail but I ordered a new remote battery pack and will install that this weekend. The board where the original is mounted looks good but like I said, I'm a bit of a dummy when it comes to this stuff.

#739 2 years ago

Joined the Gorgar Club - Glass is off getting Triple Thicked (not terrible, but less than great). Picked this up non-working for an unbeatable price... Guy said they moved it one day and it 'just stopped working'.

Power cord must have been sandwiched between the head and the body and was split. New $8 power cord and it works like a charm. Needs a cleaning and some switch adjustment, but great cab art and a very solid playfield with minimal insert wear and planking for its age may make this my easiest DOA pickup ever. It is missing one display if anyone has replaced with LED and has an extra scoring board/glass laying around.

Gorgar Glass (resized).jpgGorgar Right (resized).jpeg
#740 2 years ago

Awesome pickup! Mine was bought not working as it had the dead battery code

#741 2 years ago

I pulled the batteries before I even left the guy's driveway. Luckily, they hadn't leaked and I knew the on then off/on trick from my Firepower Now to order a 5101 NVRAM cause I'm out.

#742 2 years ago

Anybody in the Northeast have a very nice to collector quaility Gorgar they want to sell? Thank you!!

#743 2 years ago

ok - so I'm starting to tear into this Gorgar and I have a question on the Flash Lamp circuit...

I see there's a 2 Watt 330 Ohm resistor and a 1/2 Watt 1 Ohm Resistor. Can anyone advise which is the must have and which is the cut to enable LED lamps? I'm gonna stick green flashers in there, but right now Incandescent or LED aren't working. I opened it up and found the 2 watt one totally torched in half - but the board looks clean, no damage, and transistor measures correctly.

I want to confirm i'm doing the under the hood right first before I start screwing with the driver board since other than this and the knocker - everything else has been totally clean.

#744 2 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

ok - so I'm starting to tear into this Gorgar and I have a question on the Flash Lamp circuit...
I see there's a 2 Watt 330 Ohm resistor and a 1/2 Watt 1 Ohm Resistor. Can anyone advise which is the must have and which is the cut to enable LED lamps? I'm gonna stick green flashers in there, but right now Incandescent or LED aren't working. I opened it up and found the 2 watt one totally torched in half - but the board looks clean, no damage, and transistor measures correctly.
I want to confirm i'm doing the under the hood right first before I start screwing with the driver board since other than this and the knocker - everything else has been totally clean.

The 330 ohm is whats called the warming resistor - it keeps the bulb element warm so it flashes sharper and the element lasts longer.

The smaller resistor is in series with the lamp to limit the current through the bulb.

Both lamp sockets are in series too. Meaning you need to populate both sockets and they both need to make good connection with the lamps or nothing will work.

With the warming resistor in place, the LED should be lit all the time (assuming the sockets are wired up properly). Since they don't light all the time with the warming resistor in place, look at your sockets and wiring.

Once you get that resolved, cut the larger resistor out to get the LEDs to turn off and light only when the solenoid fires.

#745 2 years ago

Hmm, I was just playing my Gorgar earlier today and was having a frankly bad game, only for it to become a bit worse...I played my first 2 balls poorly, but when the pinball hit the drain, my ball never kicked back out, all the displays went out simultaneously, but the heart beat was still playing.

I assume it's probably time to rebuild the power supply board, but figured I'd check in first. I didn't see any burnt components or blown fuses, so it would seem to me some things are getting power and others aren't. I turn the machine off and on again and I have some lights on the back box and play field, but starting or coining up don't do a damn thing.

#746 2 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Hmm, I was just playing my Gorgar earlier today and was having a frankly bad game, only for it to become a bit worse...I played my first 2 balls poorly, but when the pinball hit the drain, my ball never kicked back out, all the displays went out simultaneously, but the heart beat was still playing.
I assume it's probably time to rebuild the power supply board, but figured I'd check in first. I didn't see any burnt components or blown fuses, so it would seem to me some things are getting power and others aren't. I turn the machine off and on again and I have some lights on the back box and play field, but starting or coining up don't do a damn thing.

Hard to say what the real issue is but I can tell you the reason the sound kept playing is the sound board has it's own power supply.

#747 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Hard to say what the real issue is but I can tell you the reason the sound kept playing is the sound board has it's own power supply.

Well that's interesting...I didn't know that. All the other boards have been done over in my machine not too long ago except for that one, so I guess I'll start there. I'll let you guys know what I find.

#748 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The 330 ohm is whats called the warming resistor.

Thanks again - I couldn't figure out which was the warming and which was the in series lamp looking at it. I'd done the change on my Sys 11s, but of course ol' Gorgar is just on that little wafer board. Strangely, I'm not getting anything at the flash lamps, so I'll look into it more tonight. I found the warming torched in half and the wafer board significantly burned, so there may be other repair needed - but at least I know how the circuit should look. Continuity is good between the lamps and I checked out the transistor on the board, so I'm guessing something else is at play. I should know enough to be dangerous and will be back with stupid questions if needed.

Any idea if I need to worry about Polarization with these Sys 6 lamp sockets?

#749 2 years ago
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#750 2 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Any idea if I need to worry about Polarization with these Sys 6 lamp sockets?

With LEDs, polarization is important. Some sockets on these older games have been know to be wired backwards. Doesn't matter for incandescent bulbs but does for LEDs.

Positive side of the circuit needs to be wired to the tip of the socket, negative side wired to the outer part of the socket. For the wire between the sockets, one end will be wired to the tip and the other end to the outer part.

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