(Topic ID: 62108)

GORGAR CLUB: Members Only! *THE EVIL PINBALL THAT EATS SOULS*


By Jared

6 years ago



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  • 154 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by turbo20lbs
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There are 990 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 20.
#551 2 years ago

I didn't do anything to the switch in years and when all I did was swap boards it was instantly 1000% better. Here it is now.

#552 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I'd think it would do more with the mechanics of the actual switch than anything else.

I just adjusted my switch and now it registers the points more often, but the magnet doesn't always grab the ball in time. So yes it is the switch to register the shot but I guess it's the the boards / capacitor / other issues that influence the responsiveness of the magnet.

#553 2 years ago

Mine was very easy to get to register with solid hits or barely glancing blows.

I don't remember there being a capacitor on the pit switch on mine. I thought it was simply a switch in the switch matrix.

Thorough cleaning of the switch contacts, adjusting it really tight and cleaning/polishing the plunger mechanism is all it should take. The plunger needs to move effortlessly without binding.

#554 2 years ago

Mine triggers and holds pretty easily. Fast hits that rebound off quickly sometimes dont grab, but anything solid and firm to barley touching and the magnet grabs fine.

#555 2 years ago

travish just received the capacitor, thanks a bunch!

Couldn't send this picture in the PM's - just wanted to make sure its going to replace the light blue one seen in my Gorgar now.

Due to my inexperience just thought I should double-check to avoid frying anything thanks!

IMG_0994 (resized).JPG

#556 2 years ago
Quoted from subruckus:

travish just received the capacitor, thanks a bunch!
Couldn't send this picture in the PM's - just wanted to make sure its going to replace the light blue one seen in my Gorgar now.
Due to my inexperience just thought I should double-check to avoid frying anything thanks!

Those are resistors in that picture. They are the warming resistors for the flash lamps. FYI, if you ever want to install a LED flasher in the pit, you need to remove the "light blue", larger resistor or else the LED will stay lit all the time.

#557 2 years ago

That's so funny. I just talked to a friend about this very thing this morning. My larger resistor is fried. The incandescent flasher still works in the Pit which I was a little surprised. I got a replacement resistor but put LEDs in the playfield and GI. I just got LED flashers, and remembered something about having to disconnect that resistor to allow the LED Pit flasher to work. I guess I won't solder in the resistor after all...just swap out the incandescent flasher for the LED flasher and I should be good. Fingers crossed.

#558 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Those are resistors in that picture. They are the warming resistors for the flash lamps. FYI, if you ever want to install a LED flasher in the pit, you need to remove the "light blue", larger resistor or else the LED will stay lit all the time.

Ah okay. Where is the capacitor for the snake pit magnet located? That's what I'm trying to replace. Thanks!

#559 2 years ago
Quoted from subruckus:

Ah okay. Where is the capacitor for the snake pit magnet located? That's what I'm trying to replace. Thanks!

You will have to let Travish or someone else point it out to you. Mine didn't have a capacitor on the pit switch.

Remove the plastic above the pit area and look at the switch that is behind the pit switch above the playfield.

#560 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

You will have to let Travish or someone else point it out to you. Mine didn't have a capacitor on the pit switch.
Remove the plastic above the pit area and look at the switch that is behind the pit switch above the playfield.

Ok odd mine doesn't have one behind the switch either...

#561 2 years ago
Quoted from Mank:

That's so funny. I just talked to a friend about this very thing this morning. My larger resistor is fried. The incandescent flasher still works in the Pit which I was a little surprised. I got a replacement resistor but put LEDs in the playfield and GI. I just got LED flashers, and remembered something about having to disconnect that resistor to allow the LED Pit flasher to work. I guess I won't solder in the resistor after all...just swap out the incandescent flasher for the LED flasher and I should be good. Fingers crossed.

Cool! The warming resistor is there to warm up the incandescent filament to make the bulb flash brighter and last longer. It will still flash without it. As you said, no need to replace it if you are installing LED flashers!

#562 2 years ago
Quoted from subruckus:

Ok odd mine doesn't have one behind the switch either...

Well, since you have it apart, clean the contacts on the switch, clean the plunger and mounting bracket to ensure it operates smoothly and adjust the contact points so the leaf closest to the plunger is just touching the plunger and the other contact is gaped really tight (1/16 of an inch or so).

#563 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Well, since you have it apart, clean the contacts on the switch, clean the plunger and mounting bracket to ensure it operates smoothly and adjust the contact points so the leaf closest to the plunger is just touching the plunger and the other contact is gaped really tight (1/16 of an inch or so).

I did all of that last time I had the plastics off, and now the switch registers the points much easier. The switch gap was more like 1/2" before I adjusted it! My fault for not checking. Huge improvement.

But the problem still persists where it registers points but the magnet doesn't kick in fast enough to grab the ball. This is not all that often so I might just let it go, I'd say 1/10 hard hits and never happens on a medium or soft hit. Maybe its just a natural part of the game unless I was to replace the magnet and the whole mechanism?

#564 2 years ago

I think it is just a natural part of the game and the technology used in that era. My game did the same, fast hits sometimes escaped the magnet. Since they used the switch matrix for the Pit switch, the CPU has to recognize the hit, then turn on the solenoid. It seems this takes too long for fast hits in this situation.

It is also why the slings and pops don't work the same way. The switches directly (not in the switch matrix) turn on the solenoid transistor on those eliminating the relatively long switch matrix/CPU processing time. This also nessecitates dual switches on those items, one to activate them (not in the switch matrix) and one to score the hit (this one is in the switch matrix).

#565 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I think it is just a natural part of the game and the technology used in that era. My game did the same, fast hits sometimes escaped the magnet. Since they used the switch matrix for the Pit switch, the CPU has to recognize the hit, then turn on the solenoid. It seems this takes too long for fast hits in this situation.
It is also why the slings and pops don't work the same way. The switches directly (not in the switch matrix) turn on the solenoid transistor on those eliminating the relatively long switch matrix/CPU processing time. This also nessecitates dual switches on those items, one to activate them (not in the switch matrix) and one to score the hit (this one is in the switch matrix).

Whew, that's good to hear. Thanks for the explanation.

Now that you mention the separate switches for the solenoid and the switch matrix on the slings I need to go check mine out... they don't always flip the outlane special on every hit.

Appreciate the input! Glad my Pit isn't abnormal.

#566 2 years ago

My issues with Gorgar continue... My sound had been off and on for a while, then after resoldering the cabinet pot it was working fine until a few days ago. So I bought a replacement pot, and just put that in. Unforunately that's not the culprit - the speaker hum gets softer/louder so I know the new pot is in and working fine.

I've attached some pictures of the sound board, where should I look for issues? The red and black audio wires seem to be seated fine. Any input would be great,
Thanks in advance!

IMG_1006 (resized).JPG

IMG_1007 (resized).JPG

IMG_1008 (resized).JPG

#567 2 years ago

Also, don't know if this means anything, but occasionally after turning the machine on and starting a new game there are two loud 'beeps'. Couldn't find any info on pinside or elsewhere as to what that might mean.

#568 2 years ago
Quoted from subruckus:

My issues with Gorgar continue... My sound had been off and on for a while, then after resoldering the cabinet pot it was working fine until a few days ago. So I bought a replacement pot, and just put that in. Unforunately that's not the culprit - the speaker hum gets softer/louder so I know the new pot is in and working fine.
I've attached some pictures of the sound board, where should I look for issues? The red and black audio wires seem to be seated fine. Any input would be great,
Thanks in advance!

Couple things:

Reflow solder on the sound board header pins (all of them).

Check the balance pot on the voice card. Move it from limit to limit several times and settle it somewhere in the middle.

#569 2 years ago

Found this neat shooter rod which matches the thme perfectly.

20171203_121347 (resized).jpg

#570 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Couple things:
Reflow solder on the sound board header pins (all of them).
Check the balance pot on the voice card. Move it from limit to limit several times and settle it somewhere in the middle.

Messing with the voice card pot helped. Now works 80% of the time. As I have no clue how to reflow solder I might just settle for this or ask a friend to do it. Thanks for the advice.

#571 2 years ago
Quoted from subruckus:

Messing with the voice card pot helped. Now works 80% of the time. As I have no clue how to reflow solder I might just settle for this or ask a friend to do it. Thanks for the advice.

If you can solder a new volume pot in, you can reflow solder on the header pins. All you do is heat up each pin and add a little fresh solder. I usually try and make sure the header pin is hot enough to melt solder by putting the new solder on the header pin.

#572 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

If you can solder a new volume pot in, you can reflow solder on the header pins. All you do is heat up each pin and add a little fresh solder. I usually try and make sure the header pin is hot enough to melt solder by putting the new solder on the header pin.

Reflowing solder is a big culprit for pinball machines. I grabbed old boards large and small from garbage electronics and practiced a bit before touching the beloved pinball machine lol. A decent soldering gun helps as well.

#573 2 years ago
Quoted from svendmute:

Found this neat shooter rod which matches the thme perfectly.

Very cool! Where did you get it and how much?

#574 2 years ago

Don't be scared, if you're alright with a soldering iron you'll be fine. Have a little solder wick around in case you accidentally bridge something but I was able to do the mpu and sound boards large molex connections with no problems they're all spaced pretty far out.

#575 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Don't be scared, if you're alright with a soldering iron you'll be fine. Have a little solder wick around in case you accidentally bridge something but I was able to do the mpu and sound boards large molex connections with no problems they're all spaced pretty far out.

Ok I think I'll give it a shot. But still not 100% sure what I'm reflowing, sorry for the obvious questions. It's just the underside of the three connectors at the top of the board correct? thanks!

#576 2 years ago

Where the male pins are soldered on the back of the board, if I recall correctly they are all along the outside.

#577 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Where the male pins are soldered on the back of the board, if I recall correctly they are all along the outside.

Ok great thanks.

#578 2 years ago

There are videos on YouTube showing you how to do it and how to use a soldering gun

#579 2 years ago
Quoted from leckylove:

There are videos on YouTube showing you how to do it and how to use a soldering gun

I think it was the terminology confusing me- I know how to solder but thought reflow soldering had to involve an oven etc and was more of an ordeal - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering

#580 2 years ago

Thanks for the advice y'all! Had a minor heart attack the whole time I was soldering, but the sound's been working for the last hour with no fail! Stoked! Appreciate the advice on where to look.

#581 2 years ago
Quoted from subruckus:

Thanks for the advice y'all! Had a minor heart attack the whole time I was soldering, but the sound's been working for the last hour with no fail! Stoked! Appreciate the advice on where to look.

Cold solder connections are the biggest culprits to many many problems. It can be menacing but sometimes necessary. I'm glad it worked out for you.

#582 2 years ago
Quoted from subruckus:

Thanks for the advice y'all! Had a minor heart attack the whole time I was soldering, but the sound's been working for the last hour with no fail! Stoked! Appreciate the advice on where to look.

Awesome! Congrats on the fix!

#583 2 years ago

Hate to come back with more questions/problems... But the sound has died again!! After running 95% smoothly for the last 3 days, its now back to only working 50 odd percent of the time.

On top of that, theres two new issues The game's main power switch doesn't work, so it's always on unless you pull the plug out of the wall. Second of all, the p2&4 displays are flickering and almost always missing the X00,000 digit. I know that the 1&3 and 2&4 displays are linked together, so hopefully there's only one root to the issue behind both the displays?

I know this is a lot to fix / ask for advice about, but your guys' help would be greatly appreciated. Just want to get the game up and running 100% so I can keep playing! Thanks.

#584 2 years ago

Here's some pictures of the displays, and all the boards if that helps. I know I need to get an external battery holder! But doubt that would cause all these issues. Thanks.

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#585 2 years ago

I'd start by trying to re seat all the connectors and socketed ICs on the sound board. If it fixes your issue you may need new sockets or connectors. Check especially that you don't have "scanbe" brand sockets in there.

As for your displays stay with the same reseating connectors and re flowing solder. I was amazed how many cold solder joints my gorgar had and how many issues reflowing resolved.

Edit: just noticed the connectors in the bottom of your last pic with wires run under the connector to the board. You should probably just redo all your female molex connectors as somebody has already tried to half ass fix them for some reason.

#586 2 years ago
Quoted from leckylove:

Very cool! Where did you get it and how much?

A german store :
https://shop.thepinwitch.com/product_info.php?info=p4614_skull-custom---abschusstange.html

26 eur eaquals to 31 usd.

Shop has a english section.

#587 2 years ago

My restore is coming along here are a few before and a couple after pictures.

Mine had a bad head lots of dents scratches and chunks out of it.

I will post more when complete I am assembling the playfield now and the coin door lots of stuff to polish and clean up.

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#588 2 years ago

Head is on boards are in, dragging on playfield, coin door polished but have some work to do on it.

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#589 2 years ago

I am upgrading the flipper assemblies, drop targets with the new board things, Bulletproofing the machine with Bridge Rectifier fuses and a solenoid fuse block.

Lots to do still.

It will be wired to finally turn it on.

#590 2 years ago

Weird not wired

#591 2 years ago

Wow! Looks amazing! Please keep us updated with your progress!

#592 2 years ago

I’m trying to take advantage of Christmas sales and wondered if anyone has put in anything to light up the center of the playing field. My Gorgar does have standard leds but the center is still dark. I don’t think spotlights will fit due to the low glass profile. Am I wrong? Has anyone done anything?

-Rev

#593 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I am upgrading the flipper assemblies, drop targets with the new board things, Bulletproofing the machine with Bridge Rectifier fuses and a solenoid fuse block.
Lots to do still.
It will be wired to finally turn it on.

Looking good! Keep up the good work.

#594 2 years ago

https://gamerwraps.com/shop/gorgar-cabinet-vinyl-set/

Has anyone ever used these?

I am not a purist by any stretch - kind of pissed I did not see these before I redid the cabinet on my Gorgar. It would have been easier than the stencil, painting, etc.

Even at $200 the stencil and the paint and prep was about the same after it all. Slightly more still but way easier.

Knowing Pinside most people prefer original and few changes. My opinion is Gorgar is an abundant pin and a one off is no big deal. This is a more modern decal.

I won’t do it since I just stenciled my Gorgar but I feel it would have been so much easier.

Hindsight is 20 20 right?

316A221E-5E20-4470-8760-1CC49D0E53BC (resized).png

#595 2 years ago

That's pretty cool but I would stick to the original style and I'm glad you did as well. Something about it is slightly awkward. I can't quite say what but it is not sitting right with me. Just my opinion.

#596 2 years ago

I like the original stencils better too though I don't think the new vinyl is bad, just a little too 90's skater style for me, but I do love the red powder coat, even better if it was a closer match to the cab red.

#597 2 years ago
Quoted from bkbirge:

I've got original boards, with supposedly "the magnet ground mod" whatever that means.

The magnet ground mod is from service bulletin SS 20 (check the downloads). I did this change and it cured my fuse blows and any other performance issues I had with the pit. The switch adjustment info was vital for me as the magnet had been fried/replaced just prior to my buying this machine.

#599 2 years ago

I worked on Gorgar over the weekend - upgraded the flipper mechanisms and the drop targets started to populate more of the playfield. Started the install of LED’s lots done and lots to do.

The drop targets were a lesson after the first one I figured it out.

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1 week later
#600 2 years ago

My Gorgar has a rather noisy fan that appears to have been added by someone. Like a 12v computer case fan mounted to the bottom of the cabinet.
I'm thinking must be for incandescent lamp heat since there's really not much in the cabinet that should be generating heat with the power supply and everything in the head.

Any other Gogars have a fan like this? Since I'm guessing the fan is operator installed I'm also guessing it would be safe to unplug the fan if I go LED or turn the game off when not in use. Could even add a switch to turn the fan off when I don't want to hear it. Thoughts?

Gorgar fan (resized).JPG

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