(Topic ID: 348895)

Goodbye Oil Based Cabinet Paints. Hello Water Based Acrylic Enamel.

By wrd1972_PinDoc

6 months ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 85 days ago by Dono
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 months ago

    Okay I have painted cabinets with oil based paints over the years and its worked well, but it certainly comes with some annoyances and baggage like messy as shit, long dry times, atomized cloud of death, difficult to fix the oopsies, etc. So after talking to some experts at a local paint shop, they steered in my in the direction of water-based acrylic enamel. So I know what your thinking because I thought it too, its not gonna lay down smooth and is not gonna be durable. This could NOT be further from the truth.

    So I have now painted four cabinets with Black Coronado branded Multapply (semi-gloss) with a flow additive mixed in, and words just dont do it justice how fantastic this finish is.

    Here are the Pros:
    -goes on smooth and flows out perfectly
    -drys fast. Second coat goes on in 5 minutes and is dry to the touch in 30 minutes
    -versatile enough to wipe off the unexpected oopsies with a wet rag, or sand out runs in 15 minutes
    -mixes with straight water
    -super easy clean-up
    -very little cloud of death when using a HVLP gravity gun
    -gallon costs less than $30
    -best of all, -INSANELY scratch resistant

    Cons:
    -none

    I basically reduce the paint by 50% with water and shoot it through a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gravity gun. First, I simply apply a few medium coats and let dry for 30 minutes. Then I lightly sand it all with 400 grit on a DA sander do knock the raised grain back down, apply a couple more final coats and its smooth as silk, DONE! Lastly, the gun and cups clean up in less than 5 minutes.

    I am just so overall impressed by this paint that I want to offer a review and opinions. As mentioned, it is very scratch resistant and even after countless removals of the backglasses and translites in the back boxes, there are no visible scuff or scratches on those inside walls.

    This is the product I am using:
    https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/product-catalog/cmwae/coronado-multapply
    Dont forget to have the flow additive added in.

    Adios oil based paints. Your history just like Diamond Plate.

    PinDoc.

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    #2 6 months ago

    I've had some issues with water based enamel, the main one being the 2-4 months you have to wait between stenciling first and second colors, this is after 2 months, not fun.

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    #3 6 months ago

    To be fair, I have not done any stencil jobs with it yet. Everything has been SS cabinets with vinyl decals.

    Why are you waiting that amount of time? Im done with a stencil job in 2 days.

    #4 6 months ago

    Because the stencil pulls off the paint, obviously.
    I thought 2 months was a reasonable amount of time to wait, not so. I'd guess at least 4 months between colors for water based paints.
    I'll be using oil based for stencils from now on.
    B

    #5 6 months ago

    The absolute best paint I've used on a cabinet is this PPG acrylic enamel https://www.ppgpaints.com/products/interior-paint-and-exterior-paint/break-through-50-interior-exterior-wb-acrylic

    It's dirt, stain, and oil resistant. You can recoat in an hour and dries super fast to reduce dust. It flows and levels really well with HVLP. I recommend a much better sprayer than a harbor freight one though. It adheres really well and I've done stencils after 48 hours. You can even roller or brush it on and it levels out well. Full cure is 7 days so none of that long term waiting game. I mean you can really just roller this on all your layers and not deal with the whole spray gun thing at all. I'd reduce it a little so it doesn't go on too thick. It also takes a clear coat if you want to make it matte because the dullest it comes in is satin.

    #6 6 months ago

    Use automotive paint. Single stage. Super durable, recoat in 30 min.

    #7 6 months ago

    They been saying that about oil base for years now I still use oil base paints its way better for me ,I have used water base before but still like the oil better

    #8 6 months ago
    Quoted from Jjsmooth:

    Use automotive paint. Single stage. Super durable, recoat in 30 min.

    Let's see your spray booth! Plus, auto paint is lacquer based correct? Thin with acetone? Doesn't this eat the stencils? Pinball pimp specifically states no lacquer, do you cut your own stencils? If so what materials do you use?
    B

    #9 6 months ago

    Colored vinyl sealer & pre-catalyzed lacquer topcoats are my finish of choice. These must be sprayed. The finish isn't quite as durable as automotive urethanes, but it's about as durable as polyurethane. The advantages are that a lacquer finish is quick, pretty durable, easily repairable & flows out smooth. It's basically an industry standard furniture finish (which is my area of expertise). With proper cabinet prep, you can have your finish complete in a couple hours & assemble the next day.

    #10 6 months ago
    Quoted from ZooDude:

    Let's see your spray booth! Plus, auto paint is lacquer based correct? Thin with acetone? Doesn't this eat the stencils? Pinball pimp specifically states no lacquer, do you cut your own stencils? If so what materials do you use?
    B

    Automotive paints are urethane. Not lacquer any longer.

    Lacquer based paints don't eat the stencils. They kind of melt them. Don't ask me how I know...

    #11 6 months ago

    natgreystar...

    I've always sprayed with enamel. I like how it flows and it's durable. I agree there's some extra time in between for drying, but most of the time I'm one and done (3-4 coats).

    With that said... I may try this water based material and see how I like it.

    Thanks for the info.

    Kerry

    #12 6 months ago
    Quoted from ZooDude:

    Let's see your spray booth! Plus, auto paint is lacquer based correct? Thin with acetone? Doesn't this eat the stencils? Pinball pimp specifically states no lacquer, do you cut your own stencils? If so what materials do you use?
    B

    My spray booth is outside, when temp above 50%.
    Auto paint has not been lacquer for 50 years. Maybe more.

    #13 6 months ago
    Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

    natgreystar...
    I've always sprayed with enamel. I like how it flows and it's durable. I agree there's some extra time in between for drying, but most of the time I'm one and done (3-4 coats).
    With that said... I may try this water based material and see how I like it.
    Thanks for the info.
    Kerry

    I haven't tried many brands or types of paint on cabinets. PPG has been pretty reliable and color accurate to the swatches. I like the durability and look of true enamel but it's a pain to paint especially if you don't have a low moisture temp controlled room with a spray booth. I've had a few failures with enamel getting ruined by just slight temp or moisture changes so I had to try something else. Did a beautiful job repainted a Melody including the splattering and then it wrinkled when the weather turned. Even though it wasn't outside, it was enough of a change to crackle the paint.

    #14 6 months ago

    so many choices of paint these days..i still shoot my games in lacquer paint same as the factory for most EM games.i make my own stencils.i use enamel when repainting vending machines as this holds up longer..i finished this gun smoke 3 months ago with lacquer paint but tried a new brand for the base white..not as good quality as old PPG brand.. big advantage is being able to tape and shoot your stencils fast with lacquer and shoot most of the game in a day or two....lacquer,enamel,water base etc etc...your biggest enemy is humidity when painting and try to stick with one brand of paint if using spray cans..i use a spray gun

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    3 months later
    #15 85 days ago

    I used this based off Bill's recommendation in this thread to spray a new cabinet in prep for decals and it really is amazing! I'm by no means a great painter and this stuff is very forgiving.

    One thing though I wanted to mention in case it helps others; make sure you get "Package Black" and not a mixed black. I screwed up at first and the mixed black is more like a dark grey. I went to a different shop that had package black (which is just prepackaged black right from Benjamin Moore) and its the correct color. The 2nd paint shop informed me that Ben Moore's mixed black color code is notoriously inaccurate for black.

    Here's a pic of the correct can with the 1190-2 product number:

    multapply (resized).pngmultapply (resized).png
    #16 85 days ago
    Quoted from mnye82:

    I used this based off Bill's recommendation in this thread to spray a new cabinet in prep for decals and it really is amazing! I'm by no means a great painter and this stuff is very forgiving.
    One thing though I wanted to mention in case it helps others; make sure you get "Package Black" and not a mixed black. I screwed up at first and the mixed black is more like a dark grey. I went to a different shop that had package black (which is just prepackaged black right from Benjamin Moore) and its the correct color. The 2nd paint shop informed me that Ben Moore's mixed black color code is notoriously inaccurate for black.
    Here's a pic of the correct can with the 1190-2 product number:[quoted image]

    Is anyone applying a light coat of clear after allowing this product's topcoat colors to clear? If so what are you using?

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