I doubt 2 Amps will be enough..... Make sure it is slow-blown.....otherwise you will be buying a lot of these.
Yves
Attach a multimeter to the coil, set it for Amps, and play a game. That should give you an idea of the current the coil normally pulls.
Thanks guys, the value 2A I have estimated roughly, should measure the way ForcelFlow described.
But the main question still is, does it make sense, to upgrade all of my system 1 machines with these fuses for saftey reasons? Problem is, that these coils are not CPU-controlled and if the contacts are pitted and this causes the contacts to "weld" together for a long enough time, the coil will blow and burn.
So what do you think, does that make sense, at least for the pop-bumpers?
For the pop bumper, it would make sense since those could have the potential to get locked on if the switch got stuck or the ball got jammed on the skirt. In system 80 games, fuses were added.
I don't think fuses were added for the slingshots--at least, I don't ever remember needing to troubleshoot slingshots where the coils locked on.
[edit]: I just checked one of the later system 80 games. Fuses on the coils, no fuse for the slingshots.
That is a very good idea. I will modify my Buck Rogers and introduce two fuses to protect the Pop-Bumpers.
The playfield is out and it will be very easy to modify.
Thanks
Yves
Didn't Gottlieb send out a service bulletin at one point during the early System 80 era to add fuses to select uncontrolled solenoids? Not sure if I'm remembering that correctly.
Alternatively, I've seen people go so far as to add in a pop bumper driver board to System 1 slings and pops. That would add another layer of protection (and give more responsive gameplay). Still, it'd be wise to add a fuse along those as well.
Quoted from Arcane:... I will modify my Buck Rogers and introduce two fuses to protect the Pop-Bumpers. ...
I will also do this now on all my system 1 machines and try with a 2 Ampere SB fuse.
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