Warm white if anything. Inserts are pretty small, so supers aren't necessary.

I would go with cointakers supers they are the best at spreading the light it gives off. I think they are a must for every back box
And color match the inserts. For example red led for a red insert.

Buy two or three of each and try them out for yourself....

Don't use colors under plastics. Plastics have their own colors on them, which are illuminated by white light. Color just turns it monochrome & limits the brightness that would be spread to the playfield as well.

Not saying that you are wrong but I have used green under plastics in the GIs that the plastics are trees. Think it looks awesome. So Chochi_ca don't be afraid to try color in some of the GIs under plastics. Just experiment with and see what you like

This is the only way to do it right in my opinion.

I bought 1 of each color of each type and socket from both cointaker and pinball life, and its my LED "fitting" kit.

Lets me play with different colors and types of bulbs to make sure the lighting makes artistic sense with the rest of the game's art and action.

It was a little pricey, but it's such a small fraction of the total cost of pin ownership, it was worth it to me.

Yeah, that...that's horrible. The tree plastics are green already, and will be green with a white light. Green light just makes the game darker and monochrome and weird.

I guess we will agree to disagree

Mine is probably too colorful for most of you then.

I've got blue LEDs in the back inserts (because they came like that, they brighten up the playfield, and I kinda like them.) The raptor pit is red, the lights behind the mosquito and under the Danger Raptor sign are orange (to match the amber,) the front inserts are green, the tricera slings are white, and the bumpers are color-changing red/blue/green. I also have about 5 extra dinos and 2 palm trees inside. I'm a girl... I like color and decorating.

I also color-coded the backboard, because to me the pure white just diluted it. Orange in the sky to the right, red on the sky to the left, white for the text and below, and 3 super brights for accents on the eye (yellow,) t-rex at bottom left (orange,) and I made the open white area on the bottom right bright red like an explosion to hide a little translite damage that showed up too much when white.

(You should have seen it before I got those colors in and all I had was the sample sets that I ordered incorrectly for the playfield. Ordered bayonette, needed wedge, they only fit the backbox so got bored and made it rainbow. lol)

I will tell you that white looks best on all underneath color inserts. I ordered from Pinball Life and used the regular flats on everything small, and the concave/180 degree with the larger ones like the jackpots.

I took pics and sent them from my phone to my computer, but they aren't going through right now. I've put a lot of JP pics and info on the post below though, so maybe there will be something helpful for you there. This is before I changed the backbox, red/orange raptor pit, and color-changing bumpers.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-dinosaurs-have-taken-over-jurassic-park

Funny, cuz to me- what you did diluted it. You monochromed out the natural color and texture. White bulbs would have made it look perfect.

I know I'm like the lone voice of dissent on this topic, but I feel its my duty to offer a counter opinion to those who feel pressured to make every pinball look like clown puke. WHITE LIGHT IS OK!

The whites were very very spotty and haloed badly in the sky. I'm new at this and may have gotten the wrong kind (frosted) but they don't do it behind the text so I'm not sure. The colors are softer and don't halo in real life, but I'll readily admit they look like crap in pictures. The pics I just took of the color coded version still haven't shown up from my phone to my computer, but I'll post if/when they do.

It won't matter though, you already have your opinion on the matter. Husband is just glad I got rid of the rainbow effect. That did actually look like a clown exploded behind it.

JP_rainbow.jpg

I definitely want to see pics when it's done. I have enough lights to swap mine out occasionally just for fun.

I do want to warn you that if you go directly from the owner's manual, you'll order the wrong lights. I had the book and the Pinball Life website both open and ordered exactly what it said, but when they got here I needed wedge lights for most of the top playfield and only had bayonettes. I'm blonde so I could definitely have read it wrong, but just wanted to warn you to double check so you don't have to order twice. There's also nothing in the manual showing what you need for the backbox that I could find. If you change out the posts over the bunkers, you may want the non-ghosting as mine ghost pretty bad.

Good luck, and have fun!

I guess I'm confused ...is this an old picture then? Because there's still a rainbow effect...why are the characters pink and blue and green? Why is the dinosaur's face blue and red? This type of use of colored bulbs makes absolutely zero sense.

But all my friends like clown puke.

Why not replace the kitchen lighting with green LED's? Or how about blue for the backsplash and green for the spotlights?

We need an LED intervention for Pinside... Leave the LEDs for aquariums and sushi bars.

Yes... old pic. I ordered sample sets to see what was what, as this is my first pin and I didn't know the different types of lights. (Flat, 180, wedge, bayonette, etc.) I only ordered bayonette, which didn't fit the playfield... but fit the backbox. While waiting on my big order with all the correct colors and styles, I got bored and put the samples (1 of each color in 3 different styles... frosted, 180, flat top) in the backbox. Temporarily. Like I said...

My pic finally showed up in email. This is what it looks like now. Phone camera makes it look harsh, but is really isn't in person.

Go ahead, disapprove.

jp_back.jpg

I hate to agree with Rarehero on the "clown puke" comment, sorry blondetall! What is most important is that you love it, though

I've played with a few LEDs on my JP and in my opinion it makes it worse. This was just white LEDs. Coloured LEDs would be exponentially worse. It goes against what the artist intended with the artwork. In my opinion the only valuable mods are those that advance or accentuate the original vision of the artist. Coloured LEDs modify the colours that the artist used for a reason.

I like the warm glow that incandescent bulbs have and it suits the theme of JP. Some games really benefit from LEDs, but JP isn't one of them in my opinion.

Jaundice T-Rex?

To each his own of course but I prefer this look.

image-5.jpg

That looks like it has potential.

The damage on my translite is from being burnt with incandescent bulbs. The whole area of white "explosion" in the bottom right is burnt on the back. That's the main reason I switched. Not that we leave it on for extended periods of time, but now I'm paranoid it will burn or get worse with the hotter lights. But I've got a whole tool box of LEDs and regulars now so I can swap them out as the mood hits.

Hey... just be glad that when I was helping my dad shop out his old Twin Win this weekend that I kept it original and didn't put in all the LEDs that I had. I was tempted, but did not do it. It needed to stay a classic. As for my JP? I'm still waiting to see if it can cause someone to have a seizure while playing it in the dark and all the LEDs plus the under cabinet lighting flashing to sound.

twinwin3.jpg twinwin4.jpg

LEDs are not a bad thing.

I think some "veterans" here who have done everything from flipper rebuilds, to VUK rebuilds, to full playfield shop jobs, to thorough troubleshooting diagnostics above and under the playfield forget that some of us are new to the hobby of pinball, and here's what happens: some new people (myself included) get LEDs and try to show off their first "upgrade." Then people that have been in this hobby 10+ years who have all wiring diagrams of their entire playfield memorized get all bent out of shape cause some new person is trying something different and can REALLY come off as condescending and rude. I've seen it in a number of threads on Pinside, and I wonder why people are so rude about LEDs.

** Warning - incoming rant **

I think it's the same "Doing something new is sin" attitude as what I see at car shows when someone puts in an upgraded motor and EFI in something like a 57 BelAir - people talk crap because they're stubborn and say mean things just to cast their disdain on younger people's new ideas for no reason other than "These youngins aren't doing it right; back when color TV had just come out we we're doing it THIS way, and now these youngins who think they know it all are poopooing all over our hobby...". Annoys the hell out of me.

These machines are 20+ years old - minus Stern machines of the 2000's - and they have easily passed their prime in terms of operation and low maintainability. The way I see it - ANYTHING I can do to help preserve the machine and stretch out the life of the machine - I'll definitely do it.

LEDs minimize the current draw to a fraction of what incads demand, LEDs keep the strain on the wiring of the machine to a minimum and in turn and effect, cut back on the strain of the power boards behind the translites, LEDs keep the heat down on the inserts which help keep inserts from raising and bubbling on the playfield and in effect, keeping playfield insert damage to a minimum, and LEDs are brighter with more full color, and now there are "warm white" LEDs that give off nearly the exact same light as incads without the heat and current draw.

I just don't see the justification for the hostility.

** /end rant **

Anyways, in terms of JP LEDs, get 170 degree concave LEDs from CT at $0.59 a pop for the inserts. For the translite, get cool white frosted LEDs. For the GI, there's two routes you can go - all cool white or all warm whites for one option, or "colorize" the GI LEDs. Red for the rapto pit, green for the trees, white for up front.

Bottom line - experiment - try new stuff. Do what YOU think you'll like. Take an hour, raise your playfield, find out what you need for the inserts, and then rationalize what you think you'll need for the GI. Order 2-3 extra of each - JUST in case one fails as a "broken new part" or it turns out there's more lights than you originally though and now you have the extra lights you didn't think you'd need to do the job right the first time.

Here's my JP translite - all white frosted LEDs from CT:

100_4558.JPG

NPO:

Like you said, this was my first pin and basically the only thing I was comfortable doing to it at first was changing the bulbs out. Plus I wanted it all sexy and cool, since husband and I refer to the blue LEDs on all the electronics in our house as SBLs: sexy blue lights. The really cool part about all my mods is... I can undo them. Dinos come out easily, lights go back to incandescent, and it's back to stock. So, not that I'm ever selling it, but if something happens and I have to, it can be changed to please the next person's taste. To each his own.

Exactly, and I commend you jumping right in and trying some new ideas. I mean, you at least TRIED, and that's the right direction. Hell, I didn't even have the nuts to move any plastics around that TREX, no way dude. I got all of them as loose as I could around the TREX, and then I lifted the plastics with some nuts still holding some edges of the plastics on the playfield down while Jessica got in there with itty, bitty hands and was able to change out the bulbs - particularly the Raptor pit to red - omgoodness - no thank you!

Keep rocking it out, BT. You're doing great!

I'm a new pin owner and I didn't like the LEDs. For me it wasn't a purist thing but a preference thing. I didn't have any warm white LEDs to try though.

Thanks!

Those raptor pit lights did suck. lol I don't have itty bitty hands, and skinned my knuckles pretty good trying to get those darn bolts off in that area. That's another reason the blue LEDs are still in the back instead of trying the green or white like I intended... I don't want to take that much stuff apart.

Accidental: My next trial is going to be to find the retro LEDs that look like incandescent. I think they probably would look better in the backbox. The regular white LED is spotty looking, hence my using the colors instead. I didn't see them at Pinball Life when I was ordering, but then again I don't really know where to look for them.

I'm glad we've now totally confused the OP.

Here's a video of my JP that was once for sale, and I have colored LEDs in my playfield. Remember, this video was shot during the day - I can do one at night too.

I notice the T-rex doesn't move left/right in your vid. Did you turn it off or was this broken? Mine isn't moving left/right and I haven't got round to figuring out why yet.

I turned mine off. I also turned off my shaker motor. I'm all about preventative maintenance. My roms are 5.13 - it's just me being a perfectionist.

Fair enough! I'm the polar opposite. I like to get full enjoyment out of something even if it means it is worth less when I'm done with it. My mantra is: monetary gain for protecting something isn't worth the loss of pleasure in the pursuit of protecting it. Don't get me wrong, I look after my stuff, but I like to experience something fully the way it was intended. I also don't keep my portable devices in cases or screen protectors. Nor do I use car seat covers, permanent table cloths, or any kind of furniture covers.

Sorry OP! Way off topic!

Does it still eat the ball or did you turn that part off too? I might switch off the left/right motion if it will still eat the ball.

Wow.

Hey, you should also take out the balls and disconnect the flippers...and never turn it on...and put it under a tarp....and don't let anyone within 50 feet of it.

It will still eat the ball with left/right turned off.

Here is a tip.. you can unplug the connectors to the lights so you dont have to worry about *ANY* power draw whatsoever! Then, you can buy spotlights and shine them on the game from different angles. I recommend a disco ball also, it really changes the mood of the pin. If you are uncomfortable removing the connector for the lights, you can try unplugging the game instead from the wall outlet. That would have a dramatic affect on game play but really will help with the maintenance.

Sorry, could not help myself.

Now gotta go chase some kids off my lawn.

Yes, it still does eat the ball .

Only if you ever come over, I'll put it in a box too and sharpie-mark "Stern" all over the box .

I do that in case lightning strikes. Laugh if you want, but Jessica's home got hit by lightning last week and lost a good number of electronics D: ...

Seriously though, a shaker won't damage your game. I have many shaker games (A13, Road Show, Avatar, Spider-Man, X-Men, Tron, LOTR, etc) and have never had shaker related damage. The moving dino is supposed to move and won't damage your game. You're just depriving yourself of the full game experience...the dino and shaker are enjoyable features!

Hey Rare ,

My theory/understanding is the shaking could loosen the solder joints. It's just one of those "here-say" things, and it made sense to me. As far as the moving TREX, with 5.13 roms, my understanding is the strain on the motor would be minimal and no where near as bad as the old roms. I mean, why do solder joints give out...? Do they honestly just wither away with time and crack naturally? I ask only because I don't know. Both my shaker motors on TFTC and JP are disabled just because of this idea that excessive shaking will damage the solder joints.

I guess I disabled the TREX because my first machine I paid $2200 for was a boatload of crap, and the TREX didnt work almost at all, and yeah - those kinds of experiences make me "protect your investment." If the movement to left and right will truly cause no damage at all whatsoever with the updated roms, I'll consider enabling the left to right motion.

So convince me .

Love my shaker motor. Especially "Feed T-Rex." Rawwrr.

When my mom was playing my JP and in the process of looking for her TAF, she wanted to know if hers would have a vibrator in it too.

NewPin - A pinball machine is meant to move, shake, and take abuse. That's why I said you might as well disable your flippers. All the mechanical parts COULD fail or need repair. No use worrying about it. Solder is more likely to crack from temp changes than movement. Keep in mind your flippers are constantly violently moving....are the solder joints breaking on your flipper coils? Of course not. My Road Show has been shaking for 4 years in my house, and almost 20 years total. No issues with solder because of it. Enjoy it, dude!!!!

As for the Dino, it'll be fine with your roms. Again, it's pinball....it's all about mechanical moving parts. Maybe it will have issues down the line....maybe it won't. No use worrying about one part failing when ANY part can fail. Buy a new motor if that happens...enjoy it!

Fair enough. I'll consider it . I wonder how much I'll enjoy it once I enable the shaker motor - it'll be like a new HappyMeal toy at McD's .

Feed T-Rex is INSANE with the shaker motor. Without the shaker it would be nothing. The shaker is used really well in JP. The game would feel flat without it.

DOOOO ITTT!!!!

Just another example. A soldered wire on one of my Iron Man's pop bumpers came loose. Do you think it was from the bumper coil constantly firing RAT-TAT-TAT-TAT ...or the low rumble of the shaker up in the front of the cabinet?

My vote goes to bumper coil...but in reality it probably just wasn't soldered well to begin with. It took 2 seconds to resolder the wire, so who cares...nothing damaged.

yea, what he said newpin.. you are good to go, enjoy your game.. and if something DID happen (believe me it will regardless of whether you hook up your shaker and T-Rex) when you fix your game you will get a sense of accomplishment that is more satisfying then playing your game!

We all start out somewhere.

Good call guys, I'll enable it the next game I play .

Per Chochi_ca's request, here is the video of my JP with all LEDS - every single last bulb with the exception of the flashers.

So pretty. Very very similar to mine, except mine glows blue in the back.(And has more dinos/trees all over the place. lol) There's just too much to take off to switch out my blue ones but eventually I want to try green like you have. I also see your left bumper doesn't cycle on attract mode either. Must be in the program. Mine have the color-changing lights in them and the effect is cool but almost not bright enough. I have super bright yellows to switch out to. I approve this LED JP.