(Topic ID: 149213)

Gold Strike Playfield swap begins

By Spanishsilver

8 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 53 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 8 years ago

Started my playfield swap on Gold Strike. About 6 hrs to disassemble. Will post details about how I went about it later. Need to find the right staple gun for the GI wire. So far not a bad job. Going to start assemble today but going to take my time

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#2 8 years ago

I'm in the middle of mine too. The stapler is worth it if you are going to do others in the future. I got mine on Amazon for a reasonable price. I am also leveling the silk screening with a few coats of Varathane. Would be interesting to hear from folks who have put a bunch of plays on one of his fields and if there is wear-esp. around the inserts.

#3 8 years ago

What stapler did you get.

#4 8 years ago

I'd have to dig it out (will need it soon anyway!), pretty sure it's a Porter Cable, maybe $75? Also got the staples there and they look like original. Can check the model tomorrow.

#5 8 years ago

I just used this one to do a Diamond Jack swap, worked very well

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#6 8 years ago

long nose is the key, regular stapler is no help.

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I just used this one to do a Diamond Jack swap, worked very well

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Which one is that. Where did you buy it and what size staples. Thanks

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I just used this one to do a Diamond Jack swap, worked very well

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Which one is that. Where did you buy it and what size staples. Thanks

#9 8 years ago

These guys have it. You can find the same thing on amazon for slightly cheaper. 22 ga staples, I gor with silver color. The staple puller shown is also very handy for removing the old staples

http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html

#10 8 years ago

How long are the staples. 1/4 inch

#11 8 years ago

1/4 is good. I used 3/8s on mine since that is what I had but 1/4 probably better

#12 8 years ago

Factory was only 1/4".

#13 8 years ago

How can you do that without a rotisserie?

I Favorited this thread as I am planning to do an early SS swap in the near future.

Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.

#14 8 years ago

Got the whole thing slid over. Also got the underside half together. Not as bad as I thought almost like a puzzle.

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

How can you do that without a rotisserie?
I Favorited this thread as I am planning to do an early SS swap in the near future.
Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.

Only needs to be flipped twice. Pops go in so the leads can be soldered, then flip (still pretty light) , repopulate the backside. Flip it over and finish on the topside. I do the whole operation in the game cabinet with no problems. (bottom board is out for restore, so bottom can be vacuumed before finishing the inside of the cabinet)

#17 8 years ago

When you do a playfield swap, do you install a new GI wire? Or can you re-use the old one? If new, where does one get this kind of wire, and what kind is it? Sorry for the dumb questions.

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

When you do a playfield swap, do you install a new GI wire? Or can you re-use the old one? If new, where does one get this kind of wire, and what kind is it? Sorry for the dumb questions.

I reuse the existing if it is in good shape. Would rather keep as original as possible, plus the bends where it was stapled are a road map for you when you reinstall.

#19 8 years ago

Getting there. Almost done with underside of playfield. Now have to order stapler and playfield parts

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#20 8 years ago

Keep the old GI if you can. Total time so far about 9.5 hrs.

#21 8 years ago

Looking good!

Should have used the sarcasm font instead of a smiley. There is another thread going in about rotisseries and playfield swaps.

Did you put your harness in the dishwasher? (Another thread)

#22 8 years ago

Hahaha no dishwasher. Just finished backside now waiting for staple gun.

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#23 8 years ago

I like to put the top siderails on first before doing the underside, just found it easier. Also put the wire lane guides as well while its flat.

#24 8 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

Only needs to be flipped twice. Pops go in so the leads can be soldered, then flip (still pretty light) , repopulate the backside.

Couldn't you just do the pops last after bottom is done? Wouldn't think it's any different than replacing the pops in a non playfield swap situation right? As long as you have the wire in the right spot for them.

#25 8 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

Couldn't you just do the pops last after bottom is done? Wouldn't think it's any different than replacing the pops in a non playfield swap situation right? As long as you have the wire in the right spot for them.

Yes thats what I do.

1. Sand and repoly three siderails
2. Attach old side rails to new pf, use masking tape to protect rails
3. add wire lane guides
4. flip, clean and add rollover wires first
5. add most of bottom
6. flip, add pops and posts, rubbers, top arch, apron etc
7. flip finish pops, solder wires etc, tune pops, check gaps on rollovers, replace flipper switches
8. put in game, add pf plastics etc

My rotisserie is qty 4 gallon paint cans on a pingpong table

#26 8 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

Couldn't you just do the pops last after bottom is done? Wouldn't think it's any different than replacing the pops in a non playfield swap situation right? As long as you have the wire in the right spot for them.

Yes, but count the number of flips.......I just finished the top, so do it in that order. Not having to flip it over as many times when it is fully populated and much heavier (some of 60's fields can be quite heavy) A rotisserie would be nice, but I have no room for one at the moment.....

#27 8 years ago

Got my unicatch longnose staple gun today. Any recommendations for setting staple depth. Using 22 gauge 1/4 inch staples.

#28 8 years ago
Quoted from Spanishsilver:

Got my unicatch longnose staple gun today. Any recommendations for setting staple depth. Using 22 gauge 1/4 inch staples.

Test on the old playfield to get the hang of your new tool!

#29 8 years ago
Quoted from leckmeck:

Test on the old playfield to get the hang of your new tool!

I hafta read the instructions?

#30 8 years ago

Not to hijack this thread, rather add to it. I just finished my GS swap. A few things I learned. Overall, very, very happy with Wade's latest effort. A couple screw holes were missing, but easy to add. The pre-drilled holes are a better match for the common screw diameters. Side rails and those top posts for the tent lane dividers need to be enlarged a bit. I use a slotted driver bit in a battery drill to save time. Top side is still mostly hand work. I must be slow here because I estimate it took about 24 hours to tear down the old, organize, and repopulate the new. Not counting all the cleaning and rebuild time for all equipment.

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#31 8 years ago

Complete

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#32 8 years ago

that looks really nice. good work!

#33 8 years ago

Always bothered me they didn't light the cowboy with his arms up above the lower drops. (can be done if you move the flipper stop underneath) Looks good Spanishsilver, dial that baby in!

#34 8 years ago

Thanks guys. Next playfield swap is Dimension.

#35 8 years ago

You guys make it look so easy!

One day need someone to do a stage by stage video for those of us who can't do them

#36 8 years ago

Was any additional clearcoat applied to the playfield? Can't decide whether to apply auto clearcoat when I get my Atlantis playfield.

#37 8 years ago

Just apply a few coats of paste wax such as Johnson's Paste Wax or Staples Crystal Clear Paste Wax and that's all it should need for home usage. Just be sure the wax you use does not contain silicone.

#38 8 years ago

Nothing applied. Be careful with paste wax make sure no petroleum bi products are in the wax.

#39 8 years ago
Quoted from ElectroMagnetic:

Was any additional clearcoat applied to the playfield? Can't decide whether to apply auto clearcoat when I get my Atlantis playfield.

I'm a bit more proactive than wax. Consulting with Wade, he approves of my method of leveling/protecting the black key lines.I apply several coats of Varathane, sanding after the second/third. Not a thick layer, so doesn't really dull the vibrant colors.

#40 8 years ago

I may do that with my dimension. Got to level inserts too.

#41 8 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

I'm a bit more proactive than wax. Consulting with Wade, he approves of my method of leveling/protecting the black key lines.I apply several coats of Varathane, sanding after the second/third. Not a thick layer, so doesn't really dull the vibrant colors.

Rattle can or brush on? Satin or hi gloss?

#42 8 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

I'm a bit more proactive than wax. Consulting with Wade, he approves of my method of leveling/protecting the black key lines.I apply several coats of Varathane, sanding after the second/third. Not a thick layer, so doesn't really dull the vibrant colors.

Seems to result in kind of a matte/hazy finish though? That would be my main concern.

#43 8 years ago

I had a Wade Krause Wizard! playfield auto clearcoated and it is so nice and smooth. It is currently being swapped out. My only concern is how much different it will play. Good or bad, not sure. Guess I'll know soon. If I like it, I'll probably have it done to Atlantis as well.

#44 8 years ago

Tough decision.

I saw a Kings and Queens repro that was already showing signs of wear at KO holes.

#45 8 years ago

That's why I have 2 Sing Alongs. One to play and the other to basically look at and play occasionally. It wasn't clearcoated.

#46 8 years ago
Quoted from ElectroMagnetic:

I had a Wade Krause Wizard! playfield auto clearcoated and it is so nice and smooth. It is currently being swapped out. My only concern is how much different it will play.

Once coated with 2PAC (two part auto clear), you can raise or lower the sheen to match the desired play.

Traditional matte finish can be obtained with Swirl Remover.

High mirror finish can be obtained by using Machine Glaze.

The best part is, you can go back and forth between different glosses. If you don't like the high speed play of mirror finish, you simply knock it down with Swirl Remover.

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#47 8 years ago

Good info vid1900' thank you

#48 8 years ago
Quoted from ElectroMagnetic:

I had a Wade Krause Wizard! playfield auto clearcoated and it is so nice and smooth. It is currently being swapped out. My only concern is how much different it will play. Good or bad, not sure. Guess I'll know soon. If I like it, I'll probably have it done to Atlantis as well.

Who did you have Auto clear coat.

#49 8 years ago

Brady at pinballshark. He's also doing the swap.

#50 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Seems to result in kind of a matte/hazy finish though? That would be my main concern.

I won't argue it is not as clear as automotive clear,but I work out of my living room currently, so I know it is a compromise. As I said, I limit the thickness as much as possible. I use rattle cans with decent results. I have sold my work to many folks who are happy as far as I know! We don't need to debate this subject again for the umpteenth time, but it works for me. I do use their gloss product as satin finishes are made by additional ingredients that will cloud the finish slightly.

There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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