(Topic ID: 297182)

Gogar: Smell something burning.

By Brewchap

8 days ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 30 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Brewchap
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 8 days ago

OK....here is what happened. Wife adds credits to Gorgar and went to play. The flippers locked on and a burnt smell filled the room. Then she called out to me to see what was going on and the pin is still on.
So power was on for what I feel was a long time. This is what I can tell so far. Game boots up, light work as they should. No coil is fried and seem to work.

When a game start, the sound is messed up. Hitting the diagnostics switch on the sound boards, all sounds sound good along with voice.
For the life of me, I can not find anything burned. I will know more tomorrow as I swap boards out. I got a working MPU and driver board to test with. Oh and power supply if needed.

Other then swapping out boards, what is the best approach to narrow down this problem?

#2 8 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Other then swapping out boards, what is the best approach to narrow down this problem?

Start by using a DMM/voltmeter to measure all your power supply voltages.

#3 8 days ago

Thats a great suggestion. I did find the source of the burnt smell. Looks like Q14 (knocker) burned up. that coil is not burned up and the plunger moves freely in the coil sleeve.

The power on the power supply looks good.
38v for the flipper/solenoid
17.4v for the lamps
do not use the HV section
10.4v in the 5v section

Sound is still messed up. The heart beat is missing at start up. 3 high tone beeps is all that I hear.

#4 8 days ago

Re-check the 5V. 10.4V sounds impossible if the game still boots. All other voltages are OK. The flippers locking on is also strange, since they are not CPU controlled.

The sound board is controlled by driver board solenoid outputs. You might have some problem in solenoid driver circuitry (bad 7408 or PIA). But swapping boards should make it easy to locate the problem at board level.

Don't put any known good boards into the game until you verify the 5V to be correct (4.75 - 5.25).

#5 8 days ago

I was measuring at the fuse holder F5 to get 10.4v. So I measured at 3J6 this time and found that I have 4.78v. I tested on the 5V test point on the CPU and it had 4.75v.

#6 8 days ago

Flippers were locked on and now they’re not? I’m assuming you checked fuses, including under the cabinet. Along with transistors that lead to your coils. I’m not sure how that would effect sound.

#7 8 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I was measuring at the fuse holder F5 to get 10.4v. So I measured at 3J6 this time and found that I have 4.78v. I tested on the 5V test point on the CPU and it had 4.75v.

So your power supply is OK. The 5V could be a bit higher, but 4.75 is still in specs.

#8 8 days ago

I found Q14 burned up. I have not replaced it yet. For the time being, I cut the wire going to the Knocker.

I "good"back up board, will not get out of the Audit mode. So I am stuck trying to test the original MPU and Driver board. So for now the Pin boots up and plays, all coils but the knocker are working and I have sounds, just not the right sounds in some parts of the game. Also no heart beat that plays continually in the back ground.

As far as the flippers locking on at boot up, I'm guessing that there must have been a power surge at some point causing the flippers to kick on. And maybe some of the other coils kicked on too. Don't know... just a guess.

But I'm stuck on the why I lost certain sounds and how to get them back.

#9 8 days ago

The flippers locking on, wow... I could see controlled coils locking on, but the flippers? Both of them? On an early SS game like this where the power has to go thru the high-power flipper button switches? Yeah they are enabled via a relay by the CPU but that doesn't complete their circuits. Maybe she was mistaken about them actually locking on?

#10 8 days ago

Changing out the CPU and PIA did not make a difference.

#11 8 days ago

Changing out the driver board fixed the issue. Now I need to figure out what is wrong with the driver board.

#12 7 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Changing out the driver board fixed the issue. Now I need to figure out what is wrong with the driver board.

Flip it over. You probably fried the trace.

#13 7 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Flip it over. You probably fried the trace.

I just found it, IC4 got burned up. I didn't see it until I got the magnifier got. Replace it and it is working now. Something really shorted out. I don't think that I'm going to repair the knocker. It had a very low dud sound and besides Gorgar tells you when you win.

#14 7 days ago

Still have one more problem. Lamp column drive #5 is not working. Checked Q70 and Q71 and it did not test bad. Makes me wonder if IC14 is bad.

#15 7 days ago

Lamp column drive #5 still not working after checking Q54 and Q55. Even swapped IC17 and IC18 with no change.

#16 7 days ago

Ok, Out of frustration, I install the other Driver Board. It had the same problem with Column #5. Either I got the same problem with both Driver Boards or I got a playfield problem.

#17 7 days ago

Well, I thought that I would close this thread with what I found. I found that all the bulbs in column #5 had blown or melted.

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#18 7 days ago

Wow, this is getting deep

#19 7 days ago

Good catch! That's the kind of problem where I would have tried every other possible thing first...then discovered all the bulbs were bad, lol. Sometimes you just gotta start with the easy stuff, but I know I'll make similar mistakes in the future

#20 7 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

Good catch! That's the kind of problem where I would have tried every other possible thing first...then discovered all the bulbs were bad, lol. Sometimes you just gotta start with the easy stuff, but I know I'll make similar mistakes in the future
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But why are they melted?

#21 7 days ago

Appears to be excessive voltage to the lamps.
What is the voltage rating of those lamps?

#22 7 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

But why are they melted?

I would like to know that myself!

Quoted from G-P-E:

Appears to be excessive voltage to the lamps.
What is the voltage rating of those lamps?

6.3v

#23 7 days ago

Is there any history to this machine? Did you have a power surge, change wall sockets or on generator?

#24 7 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Is there any history to this machine? Did you have a power surge, change wall sockets or on generator?

No history on the machine. it was dead when I got it over a month ago. No power surge, change of wall socket or generator. Been playing great since I got it working....till the other night when something shorted out.

#25 6 days ago

What did you do to get it working?

You could have a short within that light string, under the play field.

Possibly someone resoldered the board under one of the connectors and you have 2 solder joints touching each other. This can potentially damage one of your chips. Are any of your lamp driver board connectors burnt

#26 6 days ago

What did you do to get it working?

You could have a short within that light string, under the play field.

Possibly someone resoldered the board under one of the connectors and you have 2 solder joints touching each other. This can potentially damage one of your chips. Are any of your lamp driver board connectors burnt

#27 6 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

But why are they melted?

Controlled lighting on Williams System 6 games is from an 18 volt supply that is switched through the lamp matrix at a specific rate so that the lamps see an average of 6 volts. If something happens to cause that strobing to stop, the lamps will see the full 18 volts.

#28 6 days ago
Quoted from jscaptura:

Controlled lighting on Williams System 6 games is from an 18 volt supply that is switched through the lamp matrix at a specific rate so that the lamps see an average of 6 volts. If something happens to cause that strobing to stop, the lamps will see the full 18 volts.

Just chatting,
Could this happen because of a bad bridge rectifier that wasn’t fused? Which in addition could fry a lot more then a string of lights

#29 6 days ago

Or a bad capacitor on the power supply

#30 6 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

What did you do to get it working?
You could have a short within that light string, under the play field.
Possibly someone resoldered the board under one of the connectors and you have 2 solder joints touching each other. This can potentially damage one of your chips. Are any of your lamp driver board connectors burnt

I had to rebuild a small section of the board due to battery damage. Replaced all connectors and headers along with the 40 pin connector. Also had to replace IC2 on the MPU board because of a difference solenoid problem.

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