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(Topic ID: 174997)

Giving a Hardbody a workout to remove the "fat"


By Atari_Daze

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 57 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by cad-kid
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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There are 57 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 3 years ago

So, I picked up this pin a little over a month ago to save it from becoming a possible donor. Glass was gone, MDF cabinet was shot (it was held together with a ratchet strap), multiple switches were beyond cleaning with a burnishing tool, cracked plastics, duct tape ramp repairs and the list goes one.
The first thing I did was just start the disassembly process, I did not even bother energizing the machine to check it out first.
I'll post more of the progress as it gets done, and welcome any and all tips, tricks & the like. I know this title may not be worth all the work, but hey, it gives me something to do and again keeps it from becoming a donor.

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#2 3 years ago

yowzers... the back of that cabinet! I would not have junked it either, if that's any consolation. Love the rubber band solution, classic! Hardbody is a very fun single ball game.

#3 3 years ago

It looks like a very elaborate playfield, I can't wait to actually be able to play it.
Yes, the cabinet is being painted, could not find any Repop "generic" Bally / Midway decals.

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#4 3 years ago

Hardbody is well worth saving. If you need any pictures, let me know. I have a Hardbody and those in-line drop targets are fun to try to knock down to get to the extra ball. It's just a fast and fun game overall in spite of or because of the theme and translite.

I also have some instructions somewhere for partially removing the upper playfield that might help in your quest. Just ask and I will dig them up for you.

#5 3 years ago

Thanks Pecos, I'll let you know if I need you to dig out the instructions!

#6 3 years ago

Good progress, did you make a new cab or get a donor?

#7 3 years ago

It is an entirely new cabinet, I figured it would be less costly than paying for shipping on a donor. Both the cabinet and back box were re-constructed from 3/4" and 1/2" plywood, for the lumber, screws, glue etc, less than $150 for a cabinet that should be solid for years to come.
While I was at work on re-construction of parts, I took the liberty of making some color adjustments when I made the plastics, I'd appreciate opinions... You can see the original vs the new color matching scheme. I matched the station color of inserts and targets, of course color matching LEDs will replace the incandescent bulbs, what do ya think?

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#8 3 years ago

To give credit where credit is due, here are the resources I used for the plastic reproductions:

and this post by Jeff Hecht.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-i-recreate-plastics#post-1289147

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

While I was at work on re-construction of parts, I took the liberty of making some color adjustments when I made the plastics, I'd appreciate opinions... You can see the original vs the new color matching scheme. I matched the station color of inserts and targets, of course color matching LEDs will replace the incandescent bulbs, what do ya think?

I like the new version you created to match the standup targets/inserts. Nice work

#10 3 years ago

So after giving the playfield a new home, here she is for the first attempt at power up, (had to replace the 750mA and 187mA fuses on the power board) there is life! I will begin working to track down the illumination issues as one phase works fine but the other has many bulbs that fail to illuminate. The display also takes a few moments to turn on, signs of a failing power cap? Should be relatively easy to track down that problem as well. I should have the parts to rebuild the upper playfield ramps today so that will be one more item off the check list. Thus far I am very happy with the progress in this machine. Everyday brings more surprises and required fixes but isn't that part of the fun?!

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#11 3 years ago

The new plastic colors are a nice improvement. How would it look if you copied the playfield style with the first letter of the text a light color w/dark background? Just an idea...

#12 3 years ago

Kid, something like this rendering?
Would look cool I think if I had not already made all new plastics, DOH

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#13 3 years ago

I would try wiggling the display connectors to the MPU to see if it's just a poor connection at the plug(s). On my 6803 I ended up repinning most of the connectors due to flaky and inconsistent connections.

Also verify that your MPU is working properly via the power-on flashes from the MPU LED. You should get 9 flashes. You can also test the sound board with the on-board button.

I can't tell by the pics but make sure you clip that battery off the board and install an NVRAM. The ram is already socketed so it's a simple no-solder install.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Kid, something like this rendering?
Would look cool I think if I had not already made all new plastics, DOH

What you made looks great. The alternate is cool, thanks for posting it. I'm enjoying the thread,
keep up the good work

#15 3 years ago

Snake, any particular NVRAM chip I should source? This machine still has a coin type battery holder in use.

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#16 3 years ago

I suspect this may be the next game Farsight releases for Pinball Arcade, going by the "next game hint picture" in the latest newsletter.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Snake, any particular NVRAM chip I should source? This machine still has a coin type battery holder in use.

You need a 6116 NVRAM, $15 here: http://nvram.weebly.com/

#18 3 years ago

So here are some screen shots of this pin as the machine alternates between phases A & B, also an image of the spreadsheet I used to document all the bulbs that will not illuminate. (sorry for the picture quality they are still shots from a video so I could slow it down and catch the phases). I checked continuity of the wires between the holder and the connector, found only one that seems to be bad. After all this, I'm thinking bad 4514 chips? I've got connectors and new 4514 chips on order to hopefully arrive tomorrow which will give me plenty to do this weekend. Hopefully Monday I can report some illuminating improvements.

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#19 3 years ago

I was going through your pics again and noticed that the upper right corner of your playfield looked exactly like mine - falling into the cabinet. The composite side rails holding up the playfield had been so worn that the playfield wouldn't stay where it should. So I made some new side rails of some hard wood flooring I had and some iron metal that I cut to size. No more playfield problems!

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Original

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Fabricated replacement

This should last for the life of the machine.

Of course, completely rebuilding the cabinet and side rails will work too! Nice work!

#20 3 years ago

yes Pecos, I felt the cab was just too far gone, so I bit the big one and built a new one. I'm pretty happy with the result, it should put new life into this pin even if it is not a highly sought after game. Thanks for the compliments!

#21 3 years ago

So I replaced the three 4514 boards this weekend in hopes it would solve my illumination issues, alas it did not.
I've checked all the SCRs, all the resistors in the lighting circuits, all the interconnects between the playfield and the board, and naturally all the fuses and power test points on the CPU board and the LED flashes the proper 9 times.
Anyone have suggestions what other chips could be the cause of having most of the CPU controlled lamps fail to illuminate?

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#22 3 years ago

You've done an incredible job in such a short time. It must be nice when you know what you're doing!

#23 3 years ago

Yesterday the TCS rebuild kit arrived from Marco, got the board updated and voila, SOUND!
Now if I could just figure out the lighting issue

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#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Anyone have suggestions what other chips could be the cause of having most of the CPU controlled lamps fail to illuminate?

Check phase A, B,. For Bights it is phase C, D,.
Check continuity from the power supply to the playfield

#25 3 years ago

Would a logic probe be useful for troubleshooting this issue?

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

Would a logic probe be useful for troubleshooting this issue?

For the IC part on the CPU board, a logic probe is great. Also, the game schematics would help in identifying what is going on. Remember two lamps are driven by one SCR.

#27 3 years ago

Appreciate the advise, I am actually picking up an IC tester at lunch today and I do have the manual with schematics which has been very useful! I also have the Bally 6803 pinrepair.com guide which has helped immensely thus far.

#28 3 years ago

Finally got the "machine gun" flipper issue resolved by 1) diode check - one of the two was bad caused by 2) incorrect wire location terminations. I finally had a few minutes last night to pull the coil off the playfield and just before making the decision just to install a new coil, I clipped one of the diodes and checked it with my DMM and voila the coil value went to 3ohms as it should be, I then used the diode check function of the DMM and confirmed the diode had been killed by my hasty replacement of the old EOS switches. I have got to learn that slow is smooth, smooth is fast, speed is achieved through accuracy. Do it right the first time!

#29 3 years ago

One more thing fixed - RAMPS! After getting in the correct size rivets and replacement spring steel for the upper playfield ramps, I got them installed and got to finally play the machine for a few rounds. Wow, it is a fast paced game, with the double flippers and "flex save" action, it's busy. I've got a logic probe arriving from Amazon today so I can check the ICs to hopefully track down the lighting issues, fine tune the drop targets and switches and replace the power board connections which should correct the issue with the dual display. Once that is done, just some minor detail work like installing the legs, and this machine will be back from the grave. I can't express the joy I felt last night after installing the ramps and getting to run the ball around the playfield with all 4 flippers fully functional, what a sense of accomplishment. I can't wait to be able to post some final pics of the machine at 100%!

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#30 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

replacement spring steel for the upper playfield ramps

Where did you get the blue steel ramp flaps from? or did you make them?
If you made them, what did you use to cut the material?

#31 3 years ago

The steel ramp flaps were made from spring steel purchased from Marco. I used the broken flaps as a template, cut the steel with tin snips and then used a grinding wheel to remove burrs and round the edges. The lower flap on the right ramp was modified slightly to be wider than the oem piece in order to reduce the amount of gap next to the ball guide.

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#32 3 years ago

Nice progress!

#33 3 years ago

Great revival! looks awesome. have you solved the bulb issue?
I had a Future spa with many board problems.
I may suggest if not already done, replace those flat pin sockets with augat sockets on the 6821 pia's ??? is that correct? been years since I cared. that fixed a lot of my intermittent issues.
impressive work you done there!! congrats.

#34 3 years ago

Do you so anything after grinding the ramp edges to protect them? I made a new ramp flap using the same method but now I've got this little line with no bluing around the edge

#35 3 years ago

I thank you for the compliments Doc, no, I've not solved the lighting issue as yet, have a logic probe due in today which will hopefully help me out. If I could make heads or tails of the schematics it would help but I've forgotten all I ever knew from my intro to engineering classes back in college as I went into sales!
As far as bluing the raw cut edges of the spring steel, a basic gun bluing kit or just Liquid Gun Blue from Amazon will allow one to touch up the exposed metal.

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#36 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

The steel ramp flaps were made from spring steel purchased from Marco. I used the broken flaps as a template, cut the steel with tin snips and then used a grinding wheel to remove burrs and round the edges. The lower flap on the right ramp was modified slightly to be wider than the oem piece in order to reduce the amount of gap next to the ball guide.

Thanks! Great job!

#37 3 years ago

This past few days, I got some good work done on Hardbody. I started by replacing all old the star posts. The machine was missing a couple and when the new ones arrived, I realized how faded and tired the old ones looked, so I just replaced all of them. While most of them are hidden below plastics, I knew the faded ones would be under there and just decided to swap them all out. To "top" things off for detail work, I dyed the acorn nuts blue to go with the colors of the game, namely the blue. While I know there are colored nuts available, I did not decide to go with color until I saw the replacement nuts compared to the old ones. Like the star posts, a few acorn nuts were missing and I ordered the natural color units. When I saw them together, I decided to simply dye them so they would all look the same! Here are some of the pictures of the process, pretty simple way to make things look more "polished", with out having to order new acorn nuts and wait for them to arrive.
The lighting issue is 90% solved with the installation of a new U11 chip, a CD4011BCN. Overall, a rather productive weekend.
Yesterday the power caps finally arrived from Big Daddy as well as the power board Molex connectors (MLX™ 42002, WM series) from Digikey, so I replaced the old caps and pot, then the on the board the display headers and mating connectors and voila, display issue has been resolved. Last but not least, I burned (in effigy) the old cabinet, I thought about making it a donor, but it was far too gone, I found that out in how fast it was disassembled.
I feel like it has been a productive few days!

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#38 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

The machine was missing a couple and when the new ones arrived, I realized how faded and tired the old ones looked

The star post from that area is lite blue. I had bought new ones
back in the day(1982's). The remake are darker to be more like
Williams/Stern.

#39 3 years ago

Ah, that explains it! i like the news ones better myself.

#40 3 years ago

Wow, that dye seems to work really well.

#41 3 years ago

An old trick I learned from back in the day of RC Cars, the nylon parts could be dyed for effect, figured it would work on the acorn nuts too. It did!

1 week later
#42 3 years ago

The wife, kids and I enjoyed a few games on the HB machine over the holidays, my youngest now has the high score (since it's been resurrected). Now I'm just waiting on some longer leg bolts to arrive and the machine will be ready for sale so I can find another project!

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#43 3 years ago

What does that machine use for backbox lighting? In the last photo the PF looks way better than the BG.

#44 3 years ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

What does that machine use for backbox lighting? In the last photo the PF looks way better than the BG.

I think all these machines use the same single light bulb... which loots terrible.

On my Dungeons & Dragons, I replaced the bulb with a circline florescent bulb, which looks only marginally better.

I keep hoping someone might make a wide, LED panel that would more broadly light up the translite.

#45 3 years ago

A single bulb right in the middle, I installed a 40W LED bulb to try and reduce backbox heat.

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#46 3 years ago

Easiest backbox to LED . Someone could use a few LED strip from Comet and just tap time into the GI. That would probably give a more of an even look.

PS: Good luck with the pending sale. I honestly think Hardbody is one of the best bang for your buck machines right now. I really enjoy it.

#47 3 years ago

Yea, it took all of about 5 seconds to install!! . If I were going to keep the game, I would def invest in some LED backbox mods, but I've already put way too much into this machine as it was supposed to be a fast flip,

1 week later
#48 3 years ago

Well, she is all done and ready for sale!!

Archived after 22 days
1132 views
Sold off Pinside
Machine - For Sale
Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean “For Sale (SS project trades considered) This is a REPAIRED pin as when it was purchased, the cab was in complete shambles. For images of the progress of repair, see the thread (htt...”
2017-03-30
Houston, TX
999

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4 weeks later
#49 3 years ago

Since this machine sits still waiting to be sold, I just ordered NVRAM for it, look forward to giving this game another little upgrade.

1 month later
#50 3 years ago

While still waiting for a buyer for this machine, performed the lighted flipper button and start button mod as described by Vid.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

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