Anyone got pictures of J120/121 on the WPC Power Driver board? I'm trying to rescue a severely hacked one and having issues rebuilding the connectors. Wire colors/pin numbers don't seem to match up to the schematic.
Thanks
Anyone got pictures of J120/121 on the WPC Power Driver board? I'm trying to rescue a severely hacked one and having issues rebuilding the connectors. Wire colors/pin numbers don't seem to match up to the schematic.
Thanks
Quoted from zaza:Can't tell it's 100% correct, made this notes long time ago.
Thanks. I had one wire off. Manual says pin 10 in one spot and 11 in another. i chose wrong.
Still having all kinds of issues with multiple locking coils. Next step is to pull the PDB again and test on a rig.
I also currently have no connector on J123. The manual shows that's flashers but i don;t see any dangling connector or wires here.
Quoted from zaza:Maybe coming from the insert panel in the backbox ?, or wrong plugged on J131 ?!
I owe you a beer, sir.
Spot on correct. Was plugged at J131. Answered quite a few other issues I had. Still have no flashers but at least I'm further along now.
Thank you.
Yes, a beer
When plugged like this, the 20 Volt and 70 Volt are only separated by a coil and a flasher making both active all the time.
This can result in a failing capacitor C11 on PDB and fuse F111.
Check for 20 Volt on J106-5.
Quoted from cranie:upper GI fuse blowing
F108 ? that would be string #3, Yellow only used on the playfield.
Remove all lamps in that string and check sockets + lamps , pinched wires etc.
Yeah I started checking all the sockets in that string. So far nothing. I measured across the fuseholder and I'm seeing 5.2 amps. I pulled all the bulbs in the backbox that are on that string (about 1/2 of it).
Now the GI on the PF and 1/2 the backbox stays lit for about 2 minutes and the draw is 3.5 amps (I've only got a 3 amp breaker)
If it was a short wouldn't the amps stay the same and the fuse go just as quickly?
Can you pull Wht-Brn from J120-9 and put it on J120-7.
The way it is now, Wht-Brn and Wht-Yel are on the same fuse and possible pulling too much current.
I moved it over and now that string is pulling about 3.2 amps with incandescents. I'm planning and switching to warm white LED's to reduce heat and that should cut a bit more off.
I appreciate the help. Also thank you for all the great info and diagrams you contributed to Pin Wiki.
My pleasure,
And good to see you found the articles in PinWiki. I still keep those pictures within reach when doing board repair, very handy.
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