Call me crazy but I make clear protective plastics for specifically damage prone areas on my older games from 1/8" plexiglass virgin window scrap. It's not really difficult, just takes a little time. Where I have a complete screened plastic section, I trace that piece over the plexiglass, deliberately oversizing by 1/16" to 1/8" depending on the ball contact risk. Dremel cut the form, followed by a few runs over a belt sander to contour. Before removing the protective cover on either plexi facing I run a sharp knife edge over both edge facings to remove any "burrs". I guess I enjoy the custom fabrication more than the hunt for suppliers half the time. Good luck!

Yeah, well of course they could be custom-fabbed, but there's no way my time is worth less than buying a done set (the purpose of my post). This is why I went through the work of scanning the plastics to PDF for PinBits. (We had worked together on several of the more rare titles. i.e. I provided scans and then test-fit to the following titles: Capcom Pinball Magic, Stern Playboy 2002, Judge Dredd, Johnny mneumonic, Popeye, Champion Pub and Dr. Dude).

I'd also add that I am aware that the CPR product is printed on PETG, which should handle impact better without breaking, however, they're still prone to rub-wear at the contact points under them from kickers, posts and screws under them. All my games have plastic protectors. It seems like GI might be the only one that doesn't... That is if PinBits is shuttered and no one else is making them...

I choose yellow for my t-moulding. It made the cabinet pop, and is an eye catcher for sure.

Hoping there's someone who can help me with a problem I'm having with my Gilligan's Island. I'm getting 73v on my Rottendog power driver board 50v circuit (all other voltages are within spec and transformer output is consistently 8% over spec). The hi/low voltage LED #3 is on (should normally be off). Could this be an on-pc board issue? I've repeatedly scrutinized the pf lines to see if any cross feed.

Unrelated to the above, can someone pls send a photo of their J106 and J105 Power Driver Board connections? I've got a red/wht wire in J106 p5 that doesn't appear in any table/list in the manual and I'm wondering if somewhere in time this wire/connection got mixed up.

While a hobbyist and no professional, I've studied the manual and tested away but these two issues (believed to be unrelated) have me stumped. I'm feeling beaten down on this one. Thanks.

Hope this helps little buddy!!

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Ive never had luck with Rotten Dog, but have you checked at the test points.
Can you post a pic of RD board?

unlockpinball THANKS! I really appreciate your help. I'm impressed with your marking of connectors, very thorough. I too have resorted to marking every connector in an attempt to avoid the possible error pinning. Still have to closely review your pics against my machine (at 1st glance I didn't see any red/wht lead to J106 - very interesting...). Color/clarity of wires a little hard to differentiate when I magnify the image so I want to be careful. Thanks again! The hunt goes on!

Post script: After closer inspection of your pic and my board, it appears you have J124 (5 pin) with a red striped wire and no J106 (which also happens to be a 5 pin). May have a "pin of interest"... I traced my red/wht wire from Pwr Driver board to the insert board (aka back glass flashers circ). I'm going to study the circuits more before making the change but leaning toward this change.

@oldschool1969 Here are 2 pics of the RD board. The 1st dead-on has a yellow arrow drawn to show the questionable red/wht lead to J106 p5 and a blue arrow pointing to the LED3 for the hi/low 50v that's reading 73v (board wasn't energized when picture taken obviously). The 2nd pic was taken off center in an attempt to make connectors and wires easier to view. Any suggestions would be appreciated and explored. Thanks for initially engaging on my general plea...

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Hello, the Gilligan's Island I picked up recently has differant length rear legs and front legs... should the legs all be the same length? Where is the best place to pick up new legs?

Yes 4 standard 28.5
Bally Williams ribbed chrome legs

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ribbed-chrome-legs-set-of-4.html

TheCnyPinGuy you are absolutely correct: Of course, if you are so fortunate to have a low ceiling that just fits 76" you can elect to go my route and cut 4" off each leg of a bare metal set, so a non-standard 24.5" allows the darn game fit in the "cave". That leaves only my A13 (with 2 different leg lengths by-the-way) cinched between the ceiling joists! lol...

Wondering if anyone that has upgraded the CPU Rom to version 9 has suffered machine resets? My game has no resets when using version 7, but when upgraded to version 9 it has random resets. Brand new Rottendog driver board so no 5 volt issues.

I did put back the original rom and the resets stopped. Ordered another rom chip from someone else as it could be the rom chip brand that was used.

Hey There,
Hoping for some help please. My Gilligan has been misbehaving today. Half way through a game the bottom inlane/ outlane lights go out.
They work during idol and tests, but for some reason not during play. It tends to be during Kona especially.
Thanks for any help.
Gav

When the ball goes through the kickback lane it turns off the inlane/outlane lights. To get them working again you need to relight the kickback. If they are going out without the ball going through the kickback then check the kickback switch to make sure it is working correctly and not activating through vibration or something like that.

All fixed, seems to have been the kickback switch. Thanks for your help mate

Greetings, glad to join the club. I have a issue that is perplexing me however and hoped this was the spot to seek guidance.

My ramp leading to KONA will not come down during game play or during the test. I've physically moved the ramp up and down and the switch that is triggered when the ramp is UP works in the switch test. There are two solenoids below that I believe are part of the Ramp. A larger one which I believe is the UP and a smaller one which I believe controls the down.

I'm looking for suggestions as to what to try other than poking around underneath and hoping for the best, because that hasnt yielded results.

Bad magnet coil? I know my board set goes through both transistors for the ramp pretty often. Maybe every few months I have to replace.

Thanks for the reply!

I was thinking that, but how do I know it its the coil or transistors or both? Replace and check?

Looks like you have a few other things to work out:
- backbox bulbs aren't all working
- pla

Wow, that doesn’t sound right. You have something weird going on

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Parts Lot - Gilligan’s Island Archived

Used, fair condition - “Listed for everything in the photos for $300 with free shipping 1 Kona 2 lift Ramps 1 lift ramp guide 1 Island Assembly 1 New Luvy plastic All the plastics you see Moving i...”

2022-01-08

Sherrill, NY

TheCnyPinGuy

300 (OBO)

Archived after: 13 days

Viewed: 342 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Gilligan’s Parts Lot For Sale

This is a lonely thread...time to inject some needed energy. Shout out to Tim Crowley @ lasvegasplayfields.com for the beautiful restoration of my GI playfield. Pictures do not do it justice. The clearcoat is frigging sick. My next endeavor is to do the swap. I'm gonna pull the existing PF and send it in to Tim as well.

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Just picked up a gorgeous gi in Indiana.

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Damn. Looks fresh. Tell us about this gem. How'd you come across it?

Wish my decals worked like this one.
My fault as I let them way too long till being applied. Crinkled like potato ship.

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Im in! Had some battery acid but not too bad. Replaced with remote battery pack. 1column was out, mpu trace was bad, soldered a jumper now everything works. Typical burnt GI connector needed fixed. Very happy its better than I remembered.

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BEST CLUB EVER

Ok guys who is in for this real life adventure….

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Hello fellow Seamen. I recently got one of these and worked through some issues. Game is playing solid now however about half the time when the ball goes into Kona on the top left, the upkick solenoid doesnt make it out of the volcano and it keeps scoring...multiple times until it finally makes it up to the top ramp and returns the ball to the PF. Sometimes it works great, sometimes it takes up to 6 times to make the ramp. I ordered a new set of rubbers and plan on tearing it down and cleaning and hopefully addressing the hidden solenoid kicker issue. (BTW...should I add colored LED's or stick with white? The game is actually very well lit with the incandescents but melted the GI connector per usual so I plan on adding LEDs...but I digress) Upon inspection of the top left upkicker coil it seems that when the ball doesnt make it up it is coming off the plunger on an angle and hitting (rattling) the side lanes, taking the velocity out of the ball so it cant make it up the ramp. When it does make it up the ramp it is a smooth, straight plunge. Im hoping its a loose coil stop or something easy. It also has trouble coming up out of the (Underneath by Coconuts) playfield into the wireform. Same issue, wobbly trajectory causes it to hang and fall back down under the PF. I tried changing the angle of the table to no avail. Wonder if anyone else has had these same issues? Finally, my PF is beautiful but I noticed a dent where the ball comes out of the wireform hamster trail into the right inlane. It drops right on the switch and is wearing the wood slit down! Stupid place to dump the ball IMO. On my other games I have added a small Mylar circle where the ball drops to protect the PF but obviously cant when it drops on a switch!

Just re build and make sure the correct coil and set up is used. This is where the manual is your best friend.
So many hacks out there on an old machine it probably just installed incorrectly.
Mind you 50Mill every time will soon get you a GC ( ha ha )

Solved ...for now. I got the rubber kit and I have LEDs in stock but waiting on a weekend Im not booked fixing customer pins so I can tear it down and address it correctly but in the meantime I took a door shim, cut it to the correct length and wedged it under the coil (parallel with Playfield) as the problem is the plastic tab (solder connections) on the coil is warped causing the plunger to fire at a SLIGHT angle. Pushing up on the coil and wedging the shim in there fixed it temporarily.

Hi everyone. I started to have 2 problems with my game

1st the rotating island like to skip is seems the motor it turning it but it only goes sofar then it skips back .

2nd i tried a remote battery and a button battery pack on my cpu but nither can keep the time and date after a week. Any suggestions for the 2 problems. I am looking at the new pinsound cpu board. Thanks

Did you try the Motor test function?
Did you verify the set screw is tight?
I have had issues with cheap Battery packs not saving due to poor battery connection. Are your High scores/Credits saving and only the Date/Time not keeping? Are you getting at least 4 volts from the battery pack to the MPU connections?

I have a Kona plastic ill be listing in Market. $50 plus actual shipping costs. Good condition, mounts in tact, one small hairline cracked thats not visible.

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SOLD....that was quick

Wish they would do 3D plastics again

Hi guys,

I'm currently running version L3 on my gilligan's island. Do any of you know where can I check the changelog between versions? I've checked the L9 changelog but it says nothing:

Gilligan's Island Pinball Software Revision Information

U6: Version L-9
Checksum: C409
Date: December 8, 1992

Changes from revision L-8:

Eject hole scoring fixed.

Enhanced coin logic.

Do any of you know if it's worth the ROM change?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14534-1

Hello, Looking for a used/new opto board. Im helping a client repair his game and it has previous repair attempts on this board. Thanks in advance! JR

Hi! just got my first Gilligan's Island after wanting one forever...currently in the process of restoring it.
Was wondering if anyone could get some good pics under the PF of the Ramp relay switch especially the wiring/diode area and some pics of the ramp coils area too if possible
Thanks In advance!

I have a beautifully restored and clear coated Gilligan’s Island playfield by @captainneo. Good base playfield with no chipped or raised inserts edges. I sold the game. If you are interested let me know. Not cheap. I also have cabinet decals if someone really LOVES this pin and is going to do what I had planned for mine

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I may be interested in the cabinet decals if a good price..

Beautiful.

Can you get a complete (or in parts) hi-res scan of the playfield for posterity? Many people need parts of the playfield for touchups.

Dm me with your price on these, i may be interested!

I loooooooove GI.
Would snap up if you were priced right and in Australia
GLWTS

So I’m hoping you guys can help me. I’m getting a stuck ball here from time to time.

Is my game missing something? If so any idea what it’s missing and where to find it.

The ball get stuck in the ball guide/under ramp (AKA the white section)

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That ball guide looks like it is sitting too low, raise it a tad so the wire form sits just above middle of the ball height.

I’ll check from the underside and see if it has some play. Bring it up if i can thanks

Hi Castaways. Any ideas please? Sometimes the ramp doesn't drop down. It drops down first few times then stays up. This applies to both jungle run and Kona.