(Topic ID: 353060)

Gilligans Island Flipper assembly question

By Scullymcgee

6 months ago


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#1 6 months ago

Im replacing an incorrected flipper assembly in a Gilligans Island. The old assembly had the wrong solenoid with 2 terminals and no EOS switch… the new assembly has 3 terminals with the switch.. wanted to be sure that i am wiring them correctly.. where should the old wires go on the new assembly and is the extra wire (not used and was taped off with the old assembly)
Needed with the new assembly?

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#2 6 months ago

See if these pictures help you.

flip1 (resized).jpgflip1 (resized).jpgflip2 (resized).jpgflip2 (resized).jpg
#3 6 months ago
Quoted from Scullymcgee:

The old assembly had the wrong solenoid with 2 terminals and no EOS switch

If the solenoid is a single winding then there's probably some software controlling the energization of the winding. Be careful when restoring the flipper solenoid to parallel windings that you understand what the current (presumably hacked) wiring is doing. Flipper voltage is nominally 50V (typically 70V) so if you get something incorrect then you could cause more issues than you resolve.

#4 6 months ago
Quoted from lou:

See if these pictures help you.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks!
Would you mind taking a pic of the flipper buttons and switches for me?

#5 6 months ago

Sorry these are my old pictures from shopping it out and I don't have access to the game for a few weeks.

#6 6 months ago

The pics helped and the flippers assembly work as they should, the only thing is i cant enter initials for a hi score… but my flipper switches are cherry switches instead of leaf switches and im wondering if that could be the problem.. on boot up i get a message and when i press enter it says to check the left and right flipper switches, but they work fine as is.. just curious if changing them to original leaf switches will solve both issues and allow me to enter initials?

#7 6 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

there's probably some software controlling the energization of the winding

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gi-flippers-switches#post-7149151

déjà vu

#8 6 months ago

Damn that was a rookie mistake… chemo brain got me forgetting that i had posted about the flipper already..smh.
I had just seen my other post about the other issues I had and just now picked back up figuring this thing out after a year of it sitting
Thanks for the link!

#9 6 months ago

So how does the lane change work on Gilligans island? I have put the proper single leaf switches in for the flippers but no lane change nor am i able to enter initials… what am i missing?

#10 6 months ago

Yeah. That's what I was thinking was happening.

The hardest thing to fix is sabotage, and this is going to be a fair job restoring this pinball to original condition.

#11 6 months ago
Quoted from Scullymcgee:

So how does the lane change work on Gilligans island? I have put the proper single leaf switches in for the flippers but no lane change nor am i able to enter initials… what am i missing?

This is a manual for Gilligan's Island:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/1004/Bally_1991_Gilligan_s_Island_Manual.pdf

Look on PDF page 102 for the lane change/enter initials circuit.

Given the modifications to the flipper system that this game has had, the optoisolators might not even be connected, but if they are, it's not uncommon to need to replace them.

This is a schematic manual for your power driver board:

PDF page 5 shows the wiring for U7 and U8.

I've replaced a couple 4n25 optoisolators, so it's possible they are bad.

#12 6 months ago

Ok this may be a easy fix to bypass that import board all together..
-Left flipper button ..orange/grey wire go down to spliced blue wire that goes to import board.
Grey solid wire from left flipper button directly to import board
2 unknown cut wires were taped off by left flipper button.. blue/black and blue/grey

(Yes they are temporarily nut connected till i figure it out to solder)

-Right flipper button..orange/violet wire goes down to spliced black wire to import board
Grey solid wire from right flipper button direct to import board

2 unknown cut wires were taped off by right flipper button.. blue/violet and black/yellow

Left flipper coil.. brown and orange wire direct from coil lugs 1/2 to import board
Grey/yellow is factory from what i can tell
Unknown taped blue/grey cut wire

Right flipper coil…Red and yellow direct from coil lugs 1/2 to import board
Blue /Yellow is factory from what i can tell
Unknown taped blue/violet cut wire

I assume the cut wires are factory wires that were bypassed and replaced by the import board wires?
If so, i can desolder the coil lugs and unsplice the button wires easily.. but any idea which wires go to replace?

I tried to be as detailed as possible as this is the last of the import hack to disable to have back to factory so i can finally put this baby to rest.

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#13 6 months ago

Ok, import board is now removed and everything(?) is wired back to factory!

Still getting check left /right flipper on bootup
And no lane change or initial entry

Looks like that extra wire needs to be connected also to flipper buttons or it there supposed to be a lane change switch ?

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#14 6 months ago

Success! It looks like after rebooting again, the lane change and initial entry works and now everything is back to factory

Thanks to everyone that helped get this back to its original stare from all the crazy hacks!!

#15 6 months ago
Quoted from Scullymcgee:

Success! It looks like after rebooting again, the lane change and initial entry works and now everything is back to factory
Thanks to everyone that helped get this back to its original stare from all the crazy hacks!!

This was a formidable project...

Well done.

One thing that came to mind (should you ever need to do something this hard again) is that wirebot sells the exact colored wires by the foot for a 'factory original' look.

Nice!

#16 6 months ago
Quoted from PinRetail:

This was a formidable project...
Well done.
One thing that came to mind (should you ever need to do something this hard again) is that wirebot sells the exact colored wires by the foot for a 'factory original' look.
Nice!

Luckily for me all the factory wires were there and just taped off to the side! Didnt end up having rewire anything since the “hacks” were basically band-aided in. Just had to remove the hacks and resolder the factory wires in place.
Thought it was gonna be more formidable than it was, but once i really dug in.. it ended up being about a 1/2 hour job to get the import board out and completely back to factory.
Thanks again for all the help and pics from everyone!

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