I remember reading on here once a good source of GI wire (staple wire on the bottom side of the playfield)

what are good places to source this? part numbers?

update:
http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Fastener-Corp-121110-Picture/dp/B001PNHUEA

takes a solder and its dead nuts on to two units I compared against OEM

yea I was hoping for a non pinball reseller.. is this used anywhere else.. 75c a foot is sort of silly.

a local reseller vetco had a bunch but just checked today and they are out.

I found the perfect source its for hanging pictures anchor wire. frame shop had it 100' for 20 bucks.. that will set me for life.
its the exact stuff on two playfields I saw..and hell of a lot more reasonable prices then any pinstore. (likely its what they are using)

I saw some in ACE hardware as well in the screw isle.

http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Fastener-Corp-121110-Picture/dp/B001PNHUEA

takes a solder and its dead nuts on to two units I compared against OEM

Well I can tell you its not galvinized and looks the exact same wire.
I can also tell you that there is no such thing as "pinball wire" they just buy what works

I refuse to pay $1 - .75 a foot for wire that is common hardware store part.

Vid yes it took fine wire solder with flux core (didn't add extra flux and it took)

Photo attached for your pleasureimage.jpg

also just found out wallmart sells the same stuff for $2 for 25ft

you are kidding, right?

well to get detailed this fancy tin coating is about 10x and steel is about 13-16x that of pure copper so ignore any skin effect and solder resistance. but that is getting into weeds.

sure not debating the point you raised from science ... but the statement that "it matters" in voltage drop in application here..
to be clear..yes to state a clear fact you are correct mathematically and in terms of physics..
AND to further just show that I am not insane.. with my home 'spectroscope' testing OEM wire shows copper in the wire where this "cheap" stuff is well just iron looking core.

but to suggest that it gives one hoot of a difference in practical application we speak of here ..is a waste of cash. (and laughable IMO)

the standard pinball Gi track is no longer then 4ft. there happens to be (with my test gear) .7ohm resistance on 4ft of "fancy" vs "cheap" so we are at a wash there.. (I had a win to the new wire at .5ohm likely because its not oxidized and this was far from an official test - just holding a probe tip ..mind you this isnt copper core probe tip either .. I didnt upgrade to 'monster' silver plated probe tips yet)

now that GI AC 6v and with mathematical voltage drop of less then 3%.. even if that mattered for most pinball GI that is typically incandescent which wouldn't matter on voltage in the first place! (for the roughly .2v loss) as the lamp will light with proper amperage under most any case (lets say 1v, but delivering 6A at 1volt is problematic for other reasons) lets pretend its LED's (where voltage is more important) then we have less amps and the voltage suffers less so again.. waste of cash. (IMO)

not even delving into the topic that the connection from the lamp base to the lamp, and the lamp in the base is just friction contact! (except for 555 which only has one friction contact)

that is why I wondered if your joking.. sure for a college classroom your correct but practical application is insanity. (IMO)

So .75c a foot or .005c a foot, your money your game your choice. the orginal post here was looking for budget GI wire.. people who choose to pay high prices for wire.. why look here? just pay your price and look down on us who did it cheaper.

AND as mentioned going to a lamp store will find you "lamp grounding wire" they have spools of it.. however it wasn't the same size (and its not tinned) and cost a little more.. so you can have pure copper gold under your playfield. hell get a solder bath and tin it yourself!