(Topic ID: 24967)

GI string went out - not the fuse

By madcow

11 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by madcow
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 11 years ago

I'm completely new to this stuff, I am actually about to go buy a soldering iron and teach myself how to do that to fix a 4-5 lamps that need to be resoldered, but my GI string 2 is completely out. I'm sure it's not the fuse because I swapped it out with another one and it's still out.

Is there anything I can do without a multimeter? I'm assuming no, but I can't really afford one right now.

If that's the only way to find what I'm assuming is a broken connector or wire (?) then I will try and find one or scrounge together some cash...

Thanks guys!

#2 11 years ago

Did you check each fuse with your meter ?

Did you measure AC GI power and see if it leaving the board ?

That can help you get pointed where power stops and what to do next.

LTG

#3 11 years ago

Go to walmart and buy a sub $10 meter. It will be plenty fine for basic voltage/continuity tests.

However, if you want to make a voltage tester, just take a known good bulb and solder two wire leads to it...One on the bottom and one on the side. Make the leads long. Then ground one of the leads and you can start testing the GI wires with the other lead. If the bulb lights you have voltage. Don't touch it to higher voltage (solenoids) or you'll get a nice bulb flash as it burns out.

Start at the fuse, then the connector and work your way through to the playfield.

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you check each fuse with your meter ?

He no have

#5 11 years ago

which pin? If it's more than 20 years old, my guess is a bad IDC connector (lots of pins in that era over-drove the power, so connectors get stressed). Heck, it might not even be bad, sometimes the pins get loose. GI lighting is usually pretty clearly marked on the CPU

#6 11 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

which pin? If it's more than 20 years old, my guess is a bad IDC connector (lots of pins in that era over-drove the power, so connectors get stressed). Heck, it might not even be bad, sometimes the pins get loose. GI lighting is usually pretty clearly marked on the CPU

+1 on that, I just did this fix, check the GI connectors for any signs of being burnt, check the back of the board for any cold solder joints.

Also you should check ALL of the GI fuses, I thought I checked the right one and I had not.

Also like robertmee said go buy a cheap DMM, I have the cheapo one and works fine, should be less than 20 bucks. Make sure that it tests continuity.

When you check the fuses remove them to do so.

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

LTG said:

Did you check each fuse with your meter ?

He no have []

I misread that, I thought he'd posted "with a multimeter".

LTG

Quoted from madcow:

Is there anything I can do without a multimeter?

Light bulb ( #555 or #44 ) and a couple wires. Two wires to bulb, one wire to hot one wire to common leaving the board.

With your wires and bulb, stick a battery in there and another wire to make a simple circuit to light the bulb and then put a fuse in line with it, if the bulb lights the fuse is good.

LTG

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

With your wires and bulb, stick a battery in there and another wire to make a simple circuit to light the bulb and then put a fuse in line with it, if the bulb lights the fuse is good.

LTG

clever!

#9 11 years ago

Thanks for the tips!

I made sure all the connectors were tight and it came back on... so maybe it was just a loose connection? I'm hoping anyway. I didn't realize I could get a cheap voltage tester I thought they were ~$100+, I'll definitely pick up a cheap one.

Got all of the soldering done and everything is working but one bulb (twist-socket #555)... I will have to do some research and maybe make another post to try and fix that.

Cheers!

#10 11 years ago

Those twist sockets often times the small contacts become distorted or lose their position. Pull the socket and make sure the two small contacts on either side are in position and spread them out a little to make good contact with the board. Same thing with the bulb that goes into them. The bulb has two small wires that make contact with the inside of the socket. Spread them out a little too.

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from madcow:

everything is working but one bulb (twist-socket #555)

Besides robertmee's advice.

Reflow the solder on the pins the connector plugs onto. Common problem vibration and gravity hurt the solder joints.

LTG

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from madcow:

I made sure all the connectors were tight and it came back on... so maybe it was just a loose connection? I'm hoping anyway. I didn't realize I could get a cheap voltage tester I thought they were ~$100+, I'll definitely pick up a cheap one.

could be sounds like you problem is definitely the connector. if it goes out again take a look at those connectors for any dark discoloration that is a sign of being burnt. Also check the back of the board and check the solder joints where those connectors are. Its an easy and cheap fix if either of those things happen.

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Reflow the solder on the pins the connector plugs onto. Common problem vibration and gravity hurt the solder joints.

damn beat me to it by 16 seconds.

#14 11 years ago

Hmm, ok cool I will have to youtube a few soldering videos to learn how to do this without messing it up. Thanks guys!

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