I have a Gottlieb Genie I acquired with issues. Have everything fixed up except the GI fuse is blowing. I also have one insert that won't light but I'm chalking that up to a bad socket. Plan to change it.

What I'm wondering is... what's the easiest way to track down the cause of a short in your GI circuit? I've checked all the lights for bent tabs and no sign of them. I have noticed there seems to be some corrosion or rust on some sockets including inserts which for the most part are working fine.

Maybe there isn't a short cut.... but I'm a little unsure of how to got about it.

Thanks

Coin door is good. Thanks though... I've removed all the bulbs but the coin door didn't even enter my brain. I unhooked the coin door plug and tested the doors sockets... no short. Connected the plug... tested again... short. Coin door is fine. Small victory.

OK... So I think I found it. Unfortunately it wasn't until I'd disconnected damn near every string. Got to the point where I was running out of strings to disconnect. Then I started thinking... Pop bumpers have GI lights too! Pulled the "ground" lead off one of the pops and bingo. Lights are testing at 5ohms. So I'm working on getting everything else reconnected now. But while I do that I thought I'd throw it out there.

How should these pops on this machine be wired? Is there polarity in the leads coming out the bottom of the pops? Cause I noticed the other two are grounded opposite.

Thoughts?

EDIT==== Worked my way around to the other side and the other pop lights are shorted too. I believe the problem is the 2 metal prongs that stick out of the bottom of the pop for the wires to attach are shorting on the side of the metal bracket Should those leads be insulated? Cut short and wire fed in to the pop?? How do they wire up right? I bought this machine from someone who was attempting to restore it and gave up after problems. This is all I have left. The pops look brand new so it appears all but confirmed they were replaced and wired incorrectly. But I've never taken the pop bumpers apart on any machine I own so I'm a little clueless on how they're wired.

That's what I figured. I have some shrink wrap too so that'll be this weekends project. Then it's 100% except one insert light isn't working. Either a bad solder or a bad socket. Will try to fix that this weekend too. Thanks guy.

Few gremlins with this machine. I used heat shrink and the pop bumpers are good to go. Lights are all working. Only the "C" insert at the top refuses to work still.

But, since repairing the pop GI situation... I fired it up for my first fully lit game. Noticed early on during gameplay that I was getting a tilt warning when hitting the left flipper. and if you hit it 3 or 4 times quickly it slam tilts. WTH?

I took the tilt weight off so it's not ACTUALLY tilting. Any thoughts?

P.S. Although the circuits are now working I'm finding it nearly impossible to twist the lights in to the pops? Sockets are WAY too tight. Is there a way to fix these with everything installed or do I need to take it apart and bend the bracket. Managed to fight the top to in place but the lower pop can't be done.

Hmmm... no problems with voltage leaking as near as I can tell. And I'm not sure about the switch matrix.

Not sure what to do about the switch matrix issue if that's the problem. All I know is this... pushing the left flipper gives a single tone which I assume is a tilt warning. Sometimes you can play an entire game with no trouble other than listening to the tone the whole time. Other times, it will slam tilt mid game. The 10,000 and 20,000 point bonus lights are also flicking when I push the left flipper button. Anything other thoughts?

The only thing I can think of is... while trying to find the short I disconnected the coin door plug which includes the flippers and the tilt bobber. I did this to eliminate them as a cause for the short. I simply unplugged it, tested it and plugged it back in. The plug only fits one way so it's impossible to screw up. I've tried unplugging it a few times and have tried checking the connections... looks ok to me.

If it is a diode problem on the switch matrix, Where is the diode. Is it one of those ones in the bank of diodes mounted under the play field?

This link talks about disabling the tilt but with my 10,000 and 20,000 point bonus light flickering when the left flipper is pushed, and the lights on the my Ni-Wumpf driver board I probably should find out the real reason that's causing this rather than take the easy way out no?

Bump

PROBLEM SOLVED! Ended up being something I should have OBVIOUSLY checked the moment I realized the left flipper was causing the problem and didn't. The Diode was broken off on the left flipper coil. Not sure how I managed that since I didn't touch that area but regardless... Re-attached and problem solved. Pin is now 100%! Thanks for all your help guys.

Must say thank you to the chap at Ni-Wumpf. I phoned there over lunch and chatted with him. Discovered online doing a search that there was actually a revision done to their boards to fix a slam tilt problem. We quickly determined over the phone that the board wasn't the problem and he quickly pointed me to the direction of the left flipper coil. Best 10 minute long distance phone call I've made in a while. great service.