(Topic ID: 118701)

GI power issues CFTBL

By YKpinballer

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

OK so I have a Creature that isn't getting power to some of the GI circuits. The lights underneath the slingshots, some connected flasher bulbs on that same yellow circuit and some of the backglass lighting all have no power. Along with seemingly the coin door.

At first I thought I was dealing with a short circuit, but miraculously when I was installing new ramps and replacing some bulbs, the lights came on perfect! Under the slingshots and even in the backglass - seems like all of the GI strings were fine and the machine looked beautiful! Turned the machine off and back on to see what would happen, and the GI circuits were back off, never to be seen again. Most of the GI works fine. I think it was GI circuit 2 and 3 that were out? I blew two fuses when i connected a bulb by jumper cable but I can't remember off the top of my head which ones right now as I'm at work.

On a seemingly unrelated note, I had to reflow some cracked solder points on one of the signs so that the bulbs would stay lit. That got me thinking, maybe there is a similarly damaged connection for those GI strings and I managed to jostle the machine just right for the connectors to touch the solder points but now it's rattled back out.

Long story short, if anybody knows where the connection points are for these particular GI circuits, it would save me some trouble trying to find out myself. And I'm not even certain I'm on the right track. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, along with specifics about where these things are connected.

#2 9 years ago

All GI is powered through connectors J120 and J121 on the power driver board. One goes to the backglass, one goes to the playfield. (And I guess J119 goes to the coin door, too.)

If you've got a problem affecting both, that might suggest a problem on the board, like a broken trace somewhere.

You're number one resource for diagnosing the problem is PinWiki. I've become quite familiar with the General Illumination Problems section of that page (not by choice, of course), and they information there and the procedures they recommend are spot on. You've gotta start with the easy stuff first, as well as the things that are most likely to be the cause. Luckily, they've got it all laid out in the order you should do it.

#3 9 years ago

Thanks mot, that gives me a great starting point.

#4 9 years ago

Ok so lo and behold at all of the connections you mentioned it looks like the board has been resoldered. All of the other pins on the board look good. Take a look at the picture and let me know if it might be something else, but I think I just have to clean up the solder points a bit and make sure they aren't touching.

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#5 9 years ago

I scraped away some excess solder from between the pins, I think that might have been causing a short. I can see visible gaps now so hopefully I can go put the board back in and pray. Didn't need to fire up the soldering iron so far, just used a little metal brooch that was lying around. There is some excess glare in the picture from camera flash but the gaps all look dark green, not silver like they appear.

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#6 9 years ago

Hm... No change still no lights in the slingshots or power to the coin door. Looking for more ideas

#7 9 years ago

Well this may or may not be related but....I've had various issues with mine. First 2 were related to an IC and bridge rectifier on the flipper control board, even though the problems were not flipper related.
Just recently I lost the FILM and PAID lights. No bad fuses, went to lamp test mode and when I activated those dead lights the CREATURE lights came on??? Did some digging around and it looks like my DMD board needs a HV rebuild kit ( just ordered the parts from GPE).
Try unplugging the ribbon cable from each board (flipper, audio, DMD) individually and see if the problem persists. If the lights come with 1 board out of the loop you narrowed it. It's how I found the DMD issue.

#8 9 years ago

The problem isn't a short.
You have an open somewhere in the circuit.
Study this. Get out your DMM. Everything you need to know to fix this is in this article.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

Let us know what you find.m

BTW...the lack of coin door illumination means that the proble is with the purple/white-purple wire circuit.

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from YKpinballer:

hopefully I can go put the board back in

Without checking across and through board continuity ?

LTG : )™

#10 9 years ago

My dmm is still in the package, time to bust it out I guess. As I said before when I had the playfield tilted up to service the machine, everything came on once. So maybe it's a single disconnected wire or something causing this? Maybe because it runs power through the triac board? At any rate I will do some sleuthing tomorrow night and update you on what I find.

#11 9 years ago

J120 and J121 are wired identically. Try the GI connector to the backbox and the connector to the playfield one at a time on both J120 and J121.

GI strands 2, 3, and 5 go to both the playfield and backglass, so you should be able to rule out playfield wiring problem for those strands.

Here are two relevant snippets from the manual on IPDB.

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gi2.pnggi2.png

#13 9 years ago

Did you figure out your issue? I am having a very similar issue with White Water. The upper portion of the GI is out (brown and white brown wires). I replaced the fuse, and strangely, it worked for a couple games, but then just stopped in mid game. Checked the fuse with multimeter and it has continuity. I am a noob, and when I try to follow the pinwiki steps, I get confused:

How do I use the multimeter on connectors? In other words - I don't see how you can get the probe good contact on a wire when the connector is seated on the pins (step 4 in the pinwiki directions). Should I stick the probe down into the female portion of the connector to check voltage while the connector is off the pins?

Should I take out the power driver board and inspect the soldering? Being new to pinball, I have never taken a board out. It seems relatively simple to get out (just label then remove connectors and loosen screws?). Or should I call a tech?

Would love to know if/how the OP solved his issue because sounds almost identical to mine. Thanks for any help!

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I am having a very similar issue with White Water. The upper portion of the GI is out (brown and white brown wires).

Take a look at connectors J120 and J121. Do they look brown and crispy? If you wiggle them, does the GI come on?

#15 9 years ago

Yeah sorry, haven't gotten around to the fix yet, I came down with a cold and have been laid up a couple days. Will update when I get a chance to check it out. Definitely go through the advice posted in the thread so far in the mean time. I would suggest mot's jiggle suggestion first, because if it is a bad solder point you should be able to jiggle the connection and make the lights come on.

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