Quoted from Aurich:Well I for one am glad you're thinking about it.
FWIW: This is a cool project. I wish I was working on it too
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dkpinball.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from Aurich:Well I for one am glad you're thinking about it.
FWIW: This is a cool project. I wish I was working on it too
I am a little confused as to where all of the heat is coming from. The game has GI being controlled by transistors currently right? Aren't you using the signal and then altering it to control the PWM through mosfets or transistors on your board? Why would yours be any hotter than those on the power board?
It's interesting when you get to this point. There are a lot of ways to get it done, you try hard to find the way it's going to be the most cost effective and easiest on the user. There was already talk of running out of room in the head. Adding a power supply or a bunch of heat sinks makes it that much harder to implement.
A commercial power supply is going to run $30 - $40. If he added that to the design, someone would be asking why he didn't just rectify the 9v AC and use that instead.
Page 2 (I never get to do that..)
Ahhhh... I remember seeing these not long ago and thinking, "I'll file that away for later". The problem is my mental file is just a giant pile of stuff that I'm rarely able to pull things from.
This is awesome, I actually laughed out loud when he pulled out the heat sink.
This isn't an open source project?!?
Seriously, anyone stealing this idea - I will help you with the ball kicking if it happens!
On another note and not to derail the thread, but I'm planning on starting some open source pinball projects. Little circuits guys can build and learn from that apply to pinball. I'm hoping for this exact kind of interaction.
Quoted from herg:is now running at around 32C with the LT4320 rectifier.
This is really cool. The whole project is, but this part is a gem. I wish I had one of the machines to test with.
Herg: This may be too late in the process, but what are the chances of getting a 12v header that's PWM controlled like the rest of the output? This would allow guys to connect their toppers, undercab lighting, and other popular 12v mods to the GI and get the nice effects when using the dimmed GI.
My boards will do "on and off" but it wouldn't be as clean or cheap as having your board control the 12v output directly.
I don't know what power rails you have on the board right now. I figured if you had 12v on there already you could maybe just add an additional mosfet that would switch 12v at the same rate as it's doing the rest of the strings.
I'm not sure the SSR on the GI Buddy is fast enough to keep up with the PWM from the GI OCD. The data sheet shows
Turn On - Typical - .8 ms Max 2 ms
Turn Off - Typcial - .1 ms Max .5 ms
I'm just spitballing but that seems slow.
Yea, I'm not really talking about the straight forward GI "ON is ON and OFF is OFF". The GI Buddy will work OK with that. It's the GI Dimming that some games use that the GI OCD does such a great job with.
The "dimming" is being achieved through PWM. The GI Buddy is fast enough for GI turning on and off, but not fast enough to read and reproduce the PWM coming down the line. My guess is that with the GI dimmed to half brightness (or whatever the steps are) the output of the GI Buddy would be fully on. Even if we removed the 10uf cap.
When you're engineering something, people always have, "Hey, can we add [x]?" suggestions. This was just mine
I guess I was anticipating people asking if the GI Buddy or the PIG 2 would follow the dimming and the reality is that their "reaction time" is fast enough for blinking lights but is too slow to follow PWM.
Edit: Also, I'm sorry I didn't mean to derail this thread. My intent wasn't to divert attention to the GI buddy. It was to point out that it would be cool for the GI OCD to also control mods.
Polarity, hmmm. The only mod I had that used that connector was the Flynn's sign and that was purely because it was small and would fit through a hole in the playfield easily. It came with an adapter to fit the .093 molex connector on Stern machines. Honestly, I wouldn't make any special accommodations for that.
I used it on the GI Buddy because it was small too. And there's really no polarity on there. One line is straight through and the other switches. It's up to the user to decide if they want to switch ground or power.
You set the standard with the polarity there.
So are you saying you'll put the traces on the board but leave them unpopulated? That seems fair.
Ah, I see. Again, you take the lead there. Those adapters were specific for the Flynn's sign and I never really kept polarity consistent through the whole run.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dkpinball.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gi-ocd-active-smoothing-for-gi-work-in-progress?tu=dkpinball and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.