Scared Stiff
Bally, 1996Quoted from Crash:I honestly can't imagine why anyone would use LED flashers.
I use them for color in a few select spots. They can be pretty darn overwhelming and tend to work better if they are behind a colored dome or set back deep so that they're obsured by playfield parts.
Quoted from Crash:I honestly can't imagine why anyone would use LED flashers.
I use them all the time, colored LED flashers are an awesome way to bring color into a game without making it look like Skittle puke.
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:Yeah, the effort the designers put into light shows on games in the mid 90s is substantial. I love how the dimming is all cued up to what's going on the game. It really enhances the experience, which is why I could never bring myself to put LEDs in the GI.
Just wanted to say thanks to manic and Jam_Burglar for the posts they made about the dimming effects. I first bought an MM way back in 98 and one of the things I remembered about it was the effects the machine made when you got to the King of Payne (basically dimming effects of the GI and flashers around the castle area). Sold that machine in 2002 and bought another MM in 07. On the new machine it didn't do that effect on the King of Payne. Wasn't sure why but didn't put much thought into it. Read these couple of posts and made me think about it. Pulled out my manual and looked through the adjustments and sure enough one is there for the dimming. I'm sure I've seen it before when I toggled through the adjustments on the machine, but never thought about what it did. Mine had # 25 set to NO. Changed it to YES and played a game, got to the King of Payne and those awesome effects are there.
Feel like such a dummy, had this machine all this time but never put two and two together. Thanks fellas!
With effects such as these I can easily see how this board will be beneficial for the GI (and I've got the board for the inserts in a couple of machines and that's awesome as well). You're the man Herg!
Quoted from kevinleedrum:I may fiddle with the brightness a little, but it looks really good right now with defaults.
After playing with the settings on my own TZ, I found that the default Fade Delay Max was a bit high. There really weren't any slow fades that I saw, so I set that to 3 on mine. I also dropped the intermediate brightness values so that there was more difference from full brightness to the dimmed states to make them stand out more.
Between the new LEDs and a ColorDMD in Sigma mode, I'm falling in love with TZ all over again.
Quoted from herg:After playing with the settings on my own TZ, I found that the default Fade Delay Max was a bit high. There really weren't any slow fades that I saw, so I set that to 3 on mine. I also dropped the intermediate brightness values so that there was more difference from full brightness to the dimmed states to make them stand out more.
Between the new LEDs and a ColorDMD in Sigma mode, I'm falling in love with TZ all over again.
I'm running these settings now, and everything looks great. All my connectors arrived today, so I was finally able to connect my topper. Works beautifully with it tied to String 5 (Playfield Right), max brightness at 60, and the two lowest values set to zero. Attached is a pic of the additional 0.1" connectors and IRL540 transistor installed.
Kevin, That's very cool to see that bonus feature actually getting some use. I populated the parts on one of mine and tested it using a short LED strip, but actually using it to fade a topper is much more satisfying. Thanks, Mike, it was a really good idea.
I think for the most part, it should work, but I do know that if the control input goes to 0 brightness, the output will go off. Of course, with firmware work, that could be fixed, but I'm not making any promises. 
I'm busy enough as it is.
Farg, trying to install this now and mounting is a little bit of a bitch to give clearance to that USB plug, as stated, lol...
I'm in a STTNG with a CDMD and LED OCD already... will post a pic once I get it up and running...it's tiiiiight. =P
You can do it! You can do it!
I agree it's not much fun to squeeze in there. I have some right-angle USB adapters on order to evaluate. I thought about vertical mount USB on the PCB, but I'm afraid of having the cable stick out that direction and getting broken.
My TZ has GI OCD, LED OCD, and CDMD, so I know it's possible.
Okay, I got the board mounted...no problemo. Something wierd though, and It may be a few hours before I can get a laptop to hook up to the board to see what the software settings on my GI OCD board are at, but I don't think this is config issue..I guess it could be? You tell me..
Inserts 1 - Works great.
Inserts 2 - Works great.
Shield GI - Works great.
Playfield 1 and 2 - Stays lit at "full" power. Haven't checked the voltage on that, but I'm assuming it's not 9v. Didn't look any brighter than before I had put in the board. I guess I should check it before I potentially kill 40$ worth of GI LEDs and it's a major PITA to replace them on STTNG....
They don't ever turn off or fade at *all*. I'll admit I had a 'hack' connector on the ones that work, and the connector isn't the full 12-pin size, but it has all the wires present that are on that connector and those are the three working correctly, go figure. I don't see how it would have anything to do with the other connector either, as it's the right size, and DID turn off for Borg Multiball start previously, but now won't.
Hoping it's just a config thing and this board was used for testing something else briefly.
The GI OCD board is configured for WPC95 use by default, and strings 4 and 5 will be always on. You need to connect a PC and set them to use input 4 and input 5. This is stated near the end of the WPC89 instructions, but maybe I need to make it more clear.
The GI strings are controlled using N-channel MOSFETs as a low side switch. That means the 9V is always connected, and the GND is switched on and off. A DMM set to DC and connected across any bulb will show an average value.
OK I know JM definitely needs this. Does Shadow or Corvette dim the GI? I don't remember seeing anything like that. I know the lights go out but I don't remember any cool light shows with the GI. I am a few thousand miles away from my machines to check and I would like to have this waiting for me when I return.
Quoted from herg:The GI OCD board is configured for WPC95 use by default, and strings 4 and 5 will be always on. You need to connect a PC and set them to use input 4 and input 5.
The GI strings are controlled using N-channel MOSFETs as a low side switch. That means the 9V is always connected, and the GND is switched on and off. A DMM set to DC and connected across any bulb will show an average value.
Awesome. My wife just got home so I will have her dig up the laptop and we'll get it fixed. Thanks for the crash course in electronics too.
Quoted from molspin:Anyone put one of these into an Iron Man? Does IM need it? Is it easy plug and play? ...is there anything I need to do out of the box?
I'm getting an IM in a couple of weeks and was debating whether or not to get one of these.
The GI one is just for WPC games, Sterns don't do any fading and effects, unless you have a pre-LED'd game like Metallica. The LED insert version works great though, super happy with what it did to my Tron.
Quoted from Aurich:The GI one is just for WPC games, Sterns don't do any fading and effects, unless you have a pre-LED'd game like Metallica. The LED insert version works great though, super happy with what it did to my Tron.
Got it. Thanks, Aurich. I guess I was confusing this thread with this product:
http://www.cometpinball.com/Stern-LED-OCD-Board-p/ledocdstern.htm
Anyone used one of those in an IM?
That product is the first one I came out with, and it is for insert lamps. This is for the GI (WPC only).
Jints (from Warrenton VA) had an LED OCD in his Iron Man before he sold it. I thought it was one of the best looking games I have seen with one, probably even better than my Tron. BTW, I work in Fairfax, so if you're interested in seeing one in person before buying, we could easily work something out, even a test drive in your Iron Man.
Quoted from molspin:Got it. Thanks, Aurich. I guess I was confusing this thread with this product:
http://www.cometpinball.com/Stern-LED-OCD-Board-p/ledocdstern.htm
Anyone used one of those in an IM?
If you end up buying it, get it straight from the source. Will save you ten bucks and shipping will probably be cheaper. 
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2
IMO, it's a must-buy for ANY machine with LEDs in it. I am sure it will make your Iron Man look even more amazing than it already is, even without tweaking any of the settings.
Quoted from herg:That product is the first one I came out with, and it is for insert lamps. This is for the GI (WPC only).
Jints (from Warrenton VA) had an LED OCD in his Iron Man before he sold it. I thought it was one of the best looking games I have seen with one, probably even better than my Tron. BTW, I work in Fairfax, so if you're interested in seeing one in person before buying, we could easily work something out, even a test drive in your Iron Man.
That's great news. Thanks very much for the response. You've convinced me. I'm going to buy one. I'm sure in due time I'll have one for all of my eligible machines.
Quoted from akm:If you end up buying it, get it straight from the source. Will save you ten bucks and shipping will probably be cheaper. http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2
IMO, it's a must-buy for ANY machine with LEDs in it. I am sure it will make your Iron Man look even more amazing than it already is, even without tweaking any of the settings.
Yeah, I went there first, but they appear to be sold out. herg, akm, any timeframe on when they'll be back in stock? Thanks for all of the responses.
Quoted from molspin:Yeah, I went there first, but they appear to be sold out. herg, akm, any timeframe on when they'll be back in stock? Thanks for all of the responses.
Whoops! I totally didn't see that big, red "SOLD OUT" icon at the bottom of the page. Sorry about that! 
Quoted from akm:Whoops! I totally didn't see that big, red "SOLD OUT" icon at the bottom of the page. Sorry about that!
That's because I bought the last one! 
I'm trying to get to the point where I can keep these stocked or at least reduce the waiting. Managing the waiting list has gotten be a real pain.
Right now, however, I'm still waiting on cables for the WPC LED OCD kits, and I don't want to place another order from those guys (for the Stern) until they prove themselves.
Quoted from herg:I'm trying to get to the point where I can keep these stocked or at least reduce the waiting. Managing the waiting list has gotten be a real pain.
Right now, however, I'm still waiting on cables for the WPC LED OCD kits, and I don't want to place another order from those guys (for the Stern) until they prove themselves.
How can I get some WPC GI OCD & WPC LED OCD kits in the UK?
Looking to buy say 5 of each
thanks
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:How can I get some WPC GI OCD & WPC LED OCD kits in the UK?
Looking to buy say 5 of each
thanks
Right now, you can't. Sorry.
I am unable to ship internationally myself. Long story.
Comet Pinball had a few Stern kits, but we haven't worked out anything on the WPC kits yet.
I have had UK buyers coordinate with people in the US to place the order then re-ship.
Finally, the GI OCD has not been tested with 50 Hz power. That's not an issue with LED OCD, but it needs to be taken into account for GI.
Quoted from herg:I'm trying to get to the point where I can keep these stocked or at least reduce the waiting. Managing the waiting list has gotten be a real pain.
Tell you what, you get them in stock and I'll sing their praises for people to take them off your hands, this is a wonderful product. Managing pre-orders sucks, and big stockpiles for a hobbyist is the worst, but I really think you could make a bulk order and move them.
Whoops, I completely started this thread in the wrong place: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-gi-ocd-omg-wtfbbq-etc
I have GI OCD installed in my TZ, and have some videos showing it in action. Just got the clock working the way I wanted.
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:How can I get some WPC GI OCD & WPC LED OCD kits in the UK?
Looking to buy say 5 of each
thanks
I asked the same question! UK based too...
Quoted from alveolus:Any updates on how this works with CFTBL and the ramp lights?
Bill still has one of the GI boards, and I think he had a custom chase board made. He has been busy lately, though, and I haven't heard from him in a couple weeks.
Any guesses on when the next batch of GI OCD boards will be available?
My best guess at the moment is early July. Each run takes about a month, and I'm going to build a batch of Stern next, GI shortly following, and still deciding on when to fit in another WPC build. I'll try to keep the dates updated at the bottom of the front page of the website. http://ledocd.com/cart/
Quoted from herg:My best guess at the moment is early July. Each run takes about a month, and I'm going to build a batch of Stern next, GI shortly following, and still deciding on when to fit in another WPC build. I'll try to keep the dates updated at the bottom of the front page of the website. http://ledocd.com/cart/
Much appreciated!
Any possibility of selling kits or (even empty PCBs with a BOM) for those of us electronically inclined? It would save you a lot of labor.
At this point, assembly is turn-key. I tell them I want 50 boards, they buy all the parts, fab the boards, assemble them, and ship them ready to plug ICs and fuses into sockets. I've never even had an empty PCB of the current revision.
Quoted from Crash:The only thing he builds himself is the wiring harnesses.
Mostly true.
The only soldering I'm doing is to touch up the USB port on all of them. I want to make sure that's on there solid, and even though I've mentioned it to them multiple times, they still aren't always up to my standards.
Also, I've finally found a cable manufacturer willing to build the harnesses, and I'm switching over to having them built for me. The newest WPC LED OCD ones with red connectors were built by them.
Programming the MCUs, installing ICs / fuses / standoffs, counting screws into little bags, printing instructions, kitting up all the cables and other small bits, testing the boards, etc. still feels a lot like "building" to me, but there's not really a good way around that.
On my TZ, I am using mostly default settings, with strings 4 & 5 controlled by inputs 4 & 5, as normal for a WPC89 game. For my brightness settings, I have a maximum of 39, and a minimum of 5, letting the software set the intermediate values. This is with Ablaze Ghostbuster warm white frosted LEDs for the entire playfield GI. These settings give me an amazing lighting experience.
Quoted from pezpunk:hey herg, are there risks other than blown LEDs to overdriving the output? I changed the max level from 35 to 70 for a few seconds and liked the look but didn't want to blow anything up.
No, not really, and it depends on the resistor value in the bulbs as to what the real maximum is. I have ran both Comet 1 SMD and CT Frosted at 100% for 8 hours at a time with 1 failed bulb. Since replacing that one, later tests have not had any failed bulbs. The board stays nice and cool, even at those levels, so no issues there. The machine's transformer won't even bat an eye at 100%, and it will be far less load than a machine full of incandescent.
If you're concerned, you could measure the current flowing through a bulb at particular settings, then look at how the bulb is constructed. You typically want to keep the average current through a single diode to 20mA, though the PWM makes this somewhat difficult to calculate.
Anyone have any issues with GI OCD and TAF?
I installed this no problem, hooked it up to usb to switch it over to WPC89 mode and everything worked great. I played it like this for a couple of days with no issues.
I noticed that the #455 bulbs didn't blink. Opened the backbox, played with settings and finally gave up. I had replaced the 455's with coin taker blinker leds so I switched them back to regular 455 bulbs and everything blinked again. Now I am getting a restarting issue.
The game will reset at random times and I can no longer even get through the first ball before it resets. It also resets while sitting in attract mode.
Anyone have the same issue?
I have since unhooked the pcb to see if it resets while hooked up normally...no resets.
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