(Topic ID: 212726)

GI issue has me perplexed...

By Djshakes

6 years ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Djshakes
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#1 6 years ago

Working on a NGG and having issues with the GI. Only one side of the playfield lights up. The other side doesn't. I measured the voltage at the pins J105 and J106 a couple different ways and got the same results on both. First method: Ground black lead of DMM to ground test point, red lead touching each pin. From right to left I don't receive any reading on the two pins with the red line. The other pins I get 7.6 volts DC. Second method: Touch black lead to first (right side) pin, then red to pins 6-10 and get 7.6 at each pin. Same is true for the other four pins on the right???!?!?! I thought maybe it was the molex connector so I snipped the wires for the GI section not working and touched them to their respective pin. No luck. However, I touch them to the pins for the working GI section and the lights work. So I know it is not a wiring issue but a board issue. I just don't understand why when I touch my black DMM lead on those two pins not working and touch the other pins on the left I get a reading? I guess I can pull off the board and check for a cracked solder joint. Any help?

#2 6 years ago

It's a very common problem.

However, I believe that NGG still used AC voltage for all GI lights. Why are you measuring for DC voltage?

Regarding voltage, AC doesn't really have a "ground". It's more like a "unique path to the end of the circuit".

Besides that, you probably have a cold pin or plated through hole "PTH" on your driver board.

Does wiggling the GI connectors get any life?

Also remember to check the mains plugs at the transformer in lower cabinet for blackened pins/crispy brown molex.

You'll find the problem, it's always a connection of some sort.

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

It's a very common problem.
However, I believe that NGG still used AC voltage for all GI lights. Why are you measuring for DC voltage?
Regarding voltage, AC doesn't really have a "ground". It's more like a "unique path to the end of the circuit".
Besides that, you probably have a cold pin or plated through hole "PTH" on your driver board.
Does wiggling the GI connectors get any life?
Also remember to check the mains plugs at the transformer in lower cabinet for blackened pins/crispy brown molex.
You'll find the problem, it's always a connection of some sort.

I'll try this tonight. Honestly, I don't remember if I used AC of DC. Either way, I was getting 7.6 and nothing on the other measurement so I must have been doing it correctly. Lol.

#4 6 years ago

Be careful so you don't over think it. Grab your meter, set to AC. Measure power to the board and power off, hot to common. It all happens on the lower left area of your driver board.

If correct power is going in on each pin, and not out on each pin. Then I'd pull the board and check continuity of each pin going out, to an area away from where the pin is soldered on. Follow the trace to the next solder joint. That way you can check across and through board continuity.

This is assuming you have pulled GI fuses and checked with an ohm meter to see if they are good, and not partially blown and drawing ohms.

LTG : )

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

This is assuming you have pulled GI fuses and checked with an ohm meter to see if they are good, and not partially blown and drawing ohms.
LTG : )

Yes, did this with a meter. All good.

#6 6 years ago

GI is AC in NGG. you tested needed on your placement of period as DC. DC hot side to getting to test. AC one side to the other to test. Put meter in correct setting of course.

#7 6 years ago

Just to be sure, the left side is out, correct? So that should be 7.6 ac. The right side pins are in? Use AC to test those? What should measurements be? Or am I just testing continuity at those pins to the nearest board component? I'd love to make sure it isn't the board.

#9 6 years ago

Okay, did some additional testing. Voltage IN is good. Here is the perplexing issue. As stated, I feel there is an issue with the two pins I marked in red (2,3). It isn't a crack solder joint because I am having the same issue on the back box connector above. When I put my DMM meter on pins 2 and 8 I get 7.2 volts. Same with pins 3 and 9. Okay, voltage seems good. However, touching the bare wires to the pins won't illuminate the lights. However, if I run a jumper from the ground test point to the wire meant for pin 2 and touch the respective tracer wire to pin 8 the lights fire. Same with wires for 3 and 9. WTF. Has to be a board issue and I am assuming an amperage issue because the volts are reading correctly?

I'm assuming I need to check continuity between the J103 in to Q4 and Q3. Then check continuity from Q4 and Q3 to J105 and J106. If there is continuity it must be the triacs. Maybe I just run a jumper from J103 to J105?

20180320_073453 (resized).jpg20180320_073453 (resized).jpg

#10 6 years ago

I had a similar issue once with my Star Wars DE 1992. Turned out to be a bad fuse. Not saying this will fix your issue but worth a look.

#11 6 years ago

Screw off autocorrect:

GI is AC in NGG. you tested, based on your placement of probes, as DC. DC, hot side to ground to test. AC, one side to the other to test. Put meter in correct setting of course.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

Screw off autocorrect:
GI is AC in NGG. you tested, based on your placement of probes, as DC. DC, hot side to ground to test. AC, one side to the other to test. Put meter in correct setting of course.

I'm getting 7.2 when I put my probe on pin 2 and 8. Each lead to a pin. No ground.

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