(Topic ID: 334157)

Help: Ghostbusters Subway Lock -- All Optos Out

By marioparty34

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

No errors (resized).jpg
Node 10- no flickering (resized).jpg
bottom center- no flickering (resized).jpg
Bottom left - no flickering (resized).jpg
center- no flickering (resized).jpg
Top left.  This does flicker (resized).jpg
PIC 3 (resized).jpg
PIC 2 (resized).jpg
PIC 1 (resized).jpg
2395FA8C-C6CA-4AD7-93CB-699907907413 (resized).jpeg
020B3DC4-B70F-49C3-879D-C9A192B8FC96 (resized).jpeg
CC78539C-21A2-4D8D-B006-79728FC9E8E9 (resized).jpeg
336646773_6077630652319264_6729314109909346921_n (resized).jpg
IMG_1195 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1194 (resized).jpeg
#1 1 year ago

I noticed today when I turned on GB that the kickout subway coil fired roughly 10 times in a row. Then when I played a game, every time I would shoot into the subway the game lost track of the ball until it did a ball search.

So I first did all the coil tests. All of them are good. Then I went into switch tests to see if my subway optos were working. All three are out. Previous pinsiders who have had the same issue were able to resolve it by reseating some loose cables. However no such luck for me. So I am looking for advice on which specific cable location I should try to reseat or if its a fuse or what? I can't believe that all 3 optos would go out at the same. So it must be something else.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks!

#2 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

I noticed today when I turned on GB that the kickout subway coil fired roughly 10 times in a row. Then when I played a game, every time I would shoot into the subway the game lost track of the ball until it did a ball search.
So I first did all the coil tests. All of them are good. Then I went into switch tests to see if my subway optos were working. All three are out. Previous pinsiders who have had the same issue were able to resolve it by reseating some loose cables. However no such luck for me. So I am looking for advice on which specific cable location I should try to reseat or if its a fuse or what? I can't believe that all 3 optos would go out at the same. So it must be something else.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks!

Trace the wires back from the optos. IIRC, it’s on the harness closest to the kick out. Will have to take pics tomorrow. It’s not the connector itself, but the wires inside. They slide backwards and don’t connect inside the connector.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

Trace the wires back from the optos. IIRC, it’s on the harness closest to the kick out. Will have to take pics tomorrow. It’s not the connector itself, but the wires inside. They slide backwards and don’t connect inside the connector.

Thanks for the quick reply. Pictures of exactly what/where you are talking about would be awesome! It's a wiring mess around there and I don't want to mess it up even more.

Thanks!

#4 1 year ago

I am looking at the manual trying to trace where the optos plug in.

I think I am deciphering it correctly that the optos go into CN15 on Node board 10? And Node board 10 is closest to the back of the pin (when the pf is down).

Can someone please confirm?

Thanks!

#5 1 year ago

I completely forgot to get pics. Been a long day. Sorry.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

I completely forgot to get pics. Been a long day. Sorry.

No worries. Please just send them when you get a chance. Thanks!

#7 1 year ago

Check these connections, make sure to push them all the way in.

IMG_1194 (resized).jpegIMG_1194 (resized).jpeg
#8 1 year ago

My diverter was my main issue, check this connection as well.

IMG_1195 (resized).jpegIMG_1195 (resized).jpeg
#9 1 year ago

Also, follow the wires of the solenoid for the post that holds the balls in. Mine was ok, but I was able to push in the pins in several mm still. I turned down my shaker to minimal as well. Seems to have solved a lot of the issues I was having with reseating connectors.

#10 1 year ago

I pushed everything in as best I could. Sadly, it still doesn't work. I may try posting in the GB thread.

Thanks for your help!

#11 1 year ago

I think you are right on track - Node 10 is where the subway optos are controlled and CN15 (14 pin connector) is where they are connected. Since none of them work, I would suspect that:

The 5V and or ground pins (Pin 1 and 14) on CN15 have come loose
or
The 5V supply on that node board is not working
or
The fuse on the board has blown (not sure this is valid but there is a fuse on this board - without a schematic it is impossible to tell what it is for)

It is board 5 in the diagram on page 33 of the manual. Lower right as you look at the playfield in the upright position from the players position.

Have a look and tell us what LEDs you see lit/flashing on that board.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I think you are right on track - Node 10 is where the subway optos are controlled and CN15 (14 pin connector) is where they are connected. Since none of them work, I would suspect that:
The 5V and or ground pins (Pin 1 and 14) on CN15 have come loose
or
The 5V supply on that node board is not working
or
The fuse on the board has blown (not sure this is valid but there is a fuse on this board - without a schematic it is impossible to tell what it is for)
It is board 5 in the diagram on page 33 of the manual. Lower right as you look at the playfield in the upright position from the players position.
Have a look and tell us what LEDs you see lit/flashing on that board.

Hi Schwaggs,

Thanks for the pointers on where to find the board. I tried to reseat all the connectors to it and it didn't help. I also replaced the 7A fuse with a brand new one and that didn't help. I did some more research and found that board also controls the opto underneath the Ecto Goggles. And when I tested that, the Ecto Goggles opto doesn't work either. So I am assuming it has to be the node 10 board or something related to it and not the optos.

Here is a pic of it powered on. Does it tell you anything?

Thanks!

336646773_6077630652319264_6729314109909346921_n (resized).jpg336646773_6077630652319264_6729314109909346921_n (resized).jpg
#13 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Hi Schwaggs,
Thanks for the pointers on where to find the board. I tried to reseat all the connectors to it and it didn't help. I also replaced the 7A fuse with a brand new one and that didn't help. I did some more research and found that board also controls the opto underneath the Ecto Goggles. And when I tested that, the Ecto Goggles opto doesn't work either. So I am assuming it has to be the node 10 board or something related to it and not the optos.
Here is a pic of it powered on. Does it tell you anything?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Pull J15 and take a careful look at all the pins installed in the housing. There should be one at each end (a black with white and a red wire). Carefully inspect these to make sure they are installed in the housing properly. Give the red and the black with white wire a gentle tug to make sure they are solidly installed.

#14 1 year ago

There is one light controlled by Node 10 and one Ecto GI string.

Ecto backlight is on CN16 and is called lamp 113 (you could flash this lamp in lamp test to see if it is working)
Ecto GI on CN13 lamp 123

Can you check to see if they are lighting?

Those would be powered by the same 5v powers supply on the node board. If those lights are not working, you probably have a node board power problem.

If they are working, I suspect you have a wiring problem.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Pull J15 and take a careful look at all the pins installed in the housing. There should be one at each end (a black with white and a red wire). Carefully inspect these to make sure they are installed in the housing properly. Give the red and the black with white wire a gentle tug to make sure they are solidly installed.

Done. The red wire was a bit loose but I pushed it back in. I don't have the tools nor experience to try and repin the wire to the housing.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

There is one light controlled by Node 10 and one Ecto GI string.
Ecto backlight is on CN16 and is called lamp 113 (you could flash this lamp in lamp test to see if it is working)
Ecto GI on CN13 lamp 123
Can you check to see if they are lighting?
Those would be powered by the same 5v powers supply on the node board. If those lights are not working, you probably have a node board power problem.
If they are working, I suspect you have a wiring problem.

So lamp 113 is lighting my "nunzio scoleri" insert and it works just fine.

But my 123 does not work at all.

I guess we were hoping for both working or both not working. So CN16 works but not CN13. I did check CN13 for loose wires. And those were all pretty good.

Thank you again for helping me troubleshoot. I really am at a loss of what is going on.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

So lamp 113 is lighting my "nunzio scoleri" insert and it works just fine.
But my 123 does not work at all.
I guess we were hoping for both working or both not working. So CN16 works but not CN13. I did check CN13 for loose wires. And those were all pretty good.
Thank you again for helping me troubleshoot. I really am at a loss of what is going on.

I’m not convinced the manual is correct on the lamp numbering. 113 is supposed to be something with the ecto goggles and 123 a GI string. I’ll run some tests on my game today to see if I can determine some next steps for you.

Do you have a volt meter?

#18 1 year ago

Yes, I have a volt meter, but I may need some help using it.

If you can help me figure out what the heck it wrong, I will definitely owe you one.

Thanks for your continued help.

#19 1 year ago

123 from the manual isn’t what I thought it was. I tested this on my machine so I know this is the right procedure to test “123”.

Go into diagnostics / GI test. Cycle through until you get to this test (pictured). It should blink a red led and some white ones around the ecto goggles.

If they blink, I bet your node board is good

CC78539C-21A2-4D8D-B006-79728FC9E8E9 (resized).jpegCC78539C-21A2-4D8D-B006-79728FC9E8E9 (resized).jpeg

#20 1 year ago

Assuming the GI blinks, that means the node board power supply is likely not the problem. You are now looking for a wiring problem. The power for these optos comes from the black with white and the red wire on CN16. They daisy chain from one connector to the other. I suspect a wire broke or was cut somehow along the chain. You just need to find the needle in the haystack.

Look for connectors in that area with dual red and black with white. I’m guessing one of those wires had a bad crimp connector installed or has been cut.

020B3DC4-B70F-49C3-879D-C9A192B8FC96 (resized).jpeg020B3DC4-B70F-49C3-879D-C9A192B8FC96 (resized).jpeg2395FA8C-C6CA-4AD7-93CB-699907907413 (resized).jpeg2395FA8C-C6CA-4AD7-93CB-699907907413 (resized).jpeg

#21 1 year ago

I did exactly what you asked. And tested 123. Nothing happens. No lights come on or blink.

I have searched all around and no one has a node board 10 to sell. So it's a double edged sword. Either the node board works and I have to find a needle in a haystack for the broken wire or its the node board which is an easy swap but I can't find one.

Is there another way to test if it's the node board?

#22 1 year ago

Can always swap boards. Only catch with that is if it’s a wire short you could toast a good board.

#23 1 year ago

Any mods hooked to those ecto lights by chance?

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

Any mods hooked to those ecto lights by chance?

Yes. I had this ecto goggles plugged in at light 123. I have had it for over a year with no issues. Could this have caused my board to go bad?

https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p105/Ghostbusters-Ecto-Goggles-Interactive-Pinball-Mod.html#/

But during my testing, I removed the mod completely. So as of right now, the mod is no longer installed since we were testing light 123.

#25 1 year ago

Was the mod still working? I’d check the wires to make sure they didn’t short out on anything metal.

#26 1 year ago

The mod was no longer working. However, I haven't tried connecting the mod in a different location to see if it works. I am going to try that and report back.

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

The mod was no longer working. However, I haven't tried connecting the mod in a different location to see if it works. I am going to try that and report back.

I wouldn’t.

#28 1 year ago

I saw your message too late. It works fine though. I got lucky. But at least we eliminated the mod as the culprit.

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

I saw your message too late. It works fine though. I got lucky. But at least we eliminated the mod as the culprit.

Not really. I’d check to make sure the wires are not worn through from contact with metal. Also, these node boards are notorious for failing from the slightest over current draw.

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

I did exactly what you asked. And tested 123. Nothing happens. No lights come on or blink.
I have searched all around and no one has a node board 10 to sell. So it's a double edged sword. Either the node board works and I have to find a needle in a haystack for the broken wire or its the node board which is an easy swap but I can't find one.
Is there another way to test if it's the node board?

To confirm, you entered GI test in settings and your display looked just like the picture that I posted? During that test - no blinking GI around and below the stock ectogoggles? Do you see the other GI strings flashing as you lead up to the ecto goggle string?

How was this mod connected? Pictures?

Edit - I see the mod connects to the GI - where specifically did you have it connected when it wasn't working? How did you connect it (in the GI socket or with alligator clips?)

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

To confirm, you entered GI test in settings and your display looked just like the picture that I posted? During that test - no blinking GI around and below the stock ectogoggles? Do you see the other GI strings flashing as you lead up to the ecto goggle string?
How was this mod connected? Pictures?
Edit - I see the mod connects to the GI - where specifically did you have it connected when it wasn't working? How did you connect it (in the GI socket or with alligator clips?)

I have attached 3 pics.

1st pic: Screenshot showing I was where you wanted me to go to test it. As I was cycling to get to 123, the lights were blinking (ie sling lights, etc). But nothing blinked when I got to 123.

2nd pic: A pic of the mod that was installed. It was fitted into the GI socket of the light circled in the 3rd pic.

3rd pic: This is where the mod was installed. However, I have since removed the mod and just put in a normal light.

PIC 1 (resized).jpgPIC 1 (resized).jpgPIC 2 (resized).jpgPIC 2 (resized).jpgPIC 3 (resized).jpgPIC 3 (resized).jpg
#32 1 year ago

And just for clarification, the mod has worked for over a year in the same spot. I have never had any issues with it.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

And just for clarification, the mod has worked for over a year in the same spot. I have never had any issues with it.

Is the yellow light on the node board flickering? Make sure it is flickering, not flashing on and off. If you watch it as you boot up the game the yellow LED should be off, then flashing slowly then flickering with no pattern.

If not, can you turn the machine off and reseat the node bus connectors? The connectors that look like Ethernet cables and try again?

#34 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Is the yellow light on the node board flickering? Make sure it is flickering, not flashing on and off. If you watch it as you boot up the game the yellow LED should be off, then flashing slowly then flickering with no pattern.
If not, can you turn the machine off and reseat the node bus connectors? The connectors that look like Ethernet cables and try again?

I watched it boot up. The yellow light was off, then flashing....then solid. It not does flicker at all once the game has finished booting. I turned it off and reseated the Ethernet cables and nothing changed. It still does not flicker. It just stays solidly lit.

Now having said that, all of my yellow lights stay solidly on with the exception of node 8 (by the trough). That one flickers. Not sure if that info helps at all.

#35 1 year ago

OK, that is a problem. I just watched mine carefully and it is off, then flashing then off for a few seconds then flickering. All 3 node boards on the bottom of the PF do the same.

It seems like that node board isn't getting signals from the CPU even though the bottom node board is the first in the cabling chain (its cable leads to the CPU board). If it can't get a signal the others shouldn't be getting a signal either. I'm not sure why this is happening unless your node board is bad. BUT - if the CPU couldn't find it on startup- it should give you a "node board not found" error or something.

Can you go into diagnostics and try the node board test? I'm not sure this really does much but it might tell us something.

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

OK, that is a problem. I just watched mine carefully and it is off, then flashing then off for a few seconds then flickering. All 3 node boards on the bottom of the PF do the same.
It seems like that node board isn't getting signals from the CPU even though the bottom node board is the first in the cabling chain (its cable leads to the CPU board). If it can't get a signal the others shouldn't be getting a signal either. I'm not sure why this is happening unless your node board is bad. BUT - if the CPU couldn't find it on startup- it should give you a "node board not found" error or something.
Can you go into diagnostics and try the node board test? I'm not sure this really does much but it might tell us something.

I just ran a node diagnostics test for all the boards. They were all no error. I also took a pic of the dip switches. Are my 9 and 10 setup correctly? Maybe something got flipped.

Also attached are pics of all my boards. Perhaps there is something in these that you can see wrong.

When you mentioned flickering lights on the bottom 3 node boards. None of mine flicker. In fact, my bottom left one has no lights that come on at all. Is that normal?

The only one that flickers is by the trough.

No errors (resized).jpgNo errors (resized).jpgBottom left - no flickering (resized).jpgBottom left - no flickering (resized).jpgbottom center- no flickering (resized).jpgbottom center- no flickering (resized).jpgNode 10- no flickering (resized).jpgNode 10- no flickering (resized).jpgcenter- no flickering (resized).jpgcenter- no flickering (resized).jpgTop left.  This does flicker (resized).jpgTop left. This does flicker (resized).jpg
#37 1 year ago

I don't think the switches can be the problem since you really didn't change anything there. looks like the game is recognizing them.

Last 2 things I can think of is reseating the node board cables on the CPU board in the backbox.

You can test replacing the CPU to Node 10 cable if you have a 6 or 10 foot CAT 5 Ethernet cable. The cable from the CPU to the playfield connects to Node 10 at the bottom of the PF (the one you are having troubles with) and then continues on from there. I doubt this is the problem since your trough node board at the end of the string is working.

After that, I think you should contact Stern and tell them your situation to see if they have further diagnostics steps you should take. They can also help you with part numbers for that node board (if there are new ones) and maybe give you an idea of when they should be back in stock.

[email protected] or 1-800-KICKERS

3 weeks later
#38 11 months ago

Thanks everyone for their help. I replaced my node 10 board and everything works great now. Fingers crossed it stays that way!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
12,367
Machine - For Sale
Athens, TX
17,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Temecula, CA
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
 
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 39.95
Playfield - Plastics
Hookedonpinball.com
 
$ 63.99
Cabinet - Other
Cento Creations
 
15,699 (OBO)
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
arcade-cabinets.com
 
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 29.95
Playfield - Protection
ULEKstore
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
 
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
$ 103.00
$ 49.95
$ 24.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
 
$ 28.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
 
€ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Watssapen shop
 
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
 
$ 26.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
 
17,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Carmel Hamlet, NY
$ 63.99
Cabinet - Other
Cento Creations
 
$ 119.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-subway-lock-optos-all-out and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.