(Topic ID: 286030)

Ghostbusters Premium: "9 Node Not Found" was the beginning...

By DruTheFu

9 months ago


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  • Latest reply 8 months ago by DruTheFu
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#1 9 months ago

I am the original owner of my Ghostbusters Premium purchased in October 2016.  I turned the game on last night, and the game would not complete the boot process, displaying "Locating Node Boards, 9 Node Not Found".  I restarted the machine three times, receiving the same message.

After searching Pinside for similar reports, I proceeded to unplug and reseat all Ethernet cable connections in the backbox, in the cabinet, and under the playfield.  The same message displayed when attempting to boot when the machine was turned back on.  This time, after displaying that node 9 is not found for about 20 seconds, the game completed its boot process, but the majority of the lights in the back section of the playfield were dark, and I noticed smoke emitting from under the playfield accompanied by a burning smell.  Looking under the playfield, I saw the smoke coming from the left magna-sling magnet.  The metal bracket holding the magnet in place was extremely hot to the touch, and the black tape-like covering surrounding the magnet looked like it had melted some.  I disconnected the molex connecter of the magnet assembly to remove its power source to prevent any further damage since it appears that the magnet may be locked on.

I have also removed the Node 9 board (520-7017-72A) to check for any damage, and nothing looks burnt/blown and I did not see any solder issues. All transistor legs look to be intact with the board.

I have installed the recommended Service Bulletin kits years ago as they were released (#189 "Core Node Stabilization Kit 502-7061-00", #190 "Capacitor Service Kit 502-7060-00").

Is there anything else I should check? Is my only hope to replace node board 9 and the magna-sling magnet assembly?

#2 9 months ago

I was able to remove the left manga-sling assembly once it cooled off. The good news is that the core, bracket, and core screw all seem unaffected by the heat from the coil locking. The bad news is that the magnet coil will need to be replaced, and even worse, it’s a part that looks to be 3x the price of other magnet coils!

75A458F0-A8C9-4859-B046-B6ADA53067BF (resized).jpeg
#3 9 months ago

Wow that looks like it was toasty!

#4 8 months ago

Bump for any other ideas or confirmations of my suspicions...

#5 8 months ago

Surprised that there has been no response yet.

This is tech flex prime time!

Super curious myself.

#6 8 months ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

Surprised that there has been no response yet.
This is tech flex prime time!
Super curious myself.

It’s a spike game so tough to fix/diagnose. A coil or magnet locked on would typically be a transistor issue caused by a short. If you look in the manual, see if you can identify where the transistor is that protects/drives that magnet. Then get out your meter and start testing the transistor values against the other nearby ones.

#7 8 months ago

So with my original Node 9 board error message I received, and the the Left Sling Magnet burning up, it was pretty easy to confirm in the user manual that this coil was attached to Node Board 9.

I've removed Node 9 board and pulled out my Fluke multimeter. Not sure if I performed the readings correctly, but I placed the meter into Diode mode, with the black lead touching the top of the transistor, and the red lead on each of the legs. From reading on this site and some outside searching, readings should be in the .4 - .6 range. Looking at my readings, not sure if I'm doing this correctly.

Can any of you more knowledgeable board/transistor testers teach me to fish?

SpikeNode9_Dx (resized).jpg

#8 8 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It’s a spike game so tough to fix/diagnose. A coil or magnet locked on would typically be a transistor issue caused by a short. If you look in the manual, see if you can identify where the transistor is that protects/drives that magnet. Then get out your meter and start testing the transistor values against the other nearby ones.

Would this short be on the board itself, or somewhere along the wiring runs that connect to this board, specifically the Orange/Blue or Gray/Brown wire runs that connect to the left magna-sling?

#9 8 months ago

the transistor should be on the Node 9 board itself. the manual will tell you which one drives the magnet coil.

oh, and D9 is a diode that looks like a transistor but isn't actually one.

#10 8 months ago

Making more sense to me after staring at the different pages in the GB user manual for a while.

Node 9 board, Transistor Q7 is associated with the left magna-sling.

The GI lights that I instantly noticed out on the playfield are using Q15-17.

The readings in my pic look to correlate to what I'm seeing, and with Q8's readings, it looks like I caught the right magna-sling locking on in time before it burned up that coil too.

Turning the board over, locating the labeled solders and following the traces, and inspecting the board even closer, I see that there looks to be some irregularity to the areas of the above-mentioned transistor solder connections.

It looks like I've located the blown transistors, and it seems like they were blowing in some kind of a lined order.

Now it looks like I need to trace some wires and look for any exposed copper, any bare wires crossing/touching, pinches.... Would a bad bulb be a culprit?

What else should I look for that would lead to transistors blowing on a board? I'd hate to install new parts only for them to suffer the same fate.

Is there a way f guessing/knowing wish transistor was the first to blow and concentrate on those wires?

Thanks for all the tips and help!

#11 8 months ago

Was the “tsb” done for the board where the Ethernet looking cable was pulled too tight?

Edit:
Node stabilization
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB189.pdf

Capacitor
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB190revB.pdf

#12 8 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Was the “tsb” done for the board where the Ethernet looking cable was pulled too tight?

I don't think I've seen that service bulletin. Is there a link to this, or something to verify with my machine?

I've installed
#189 "Core Node Stabilization Kit 502-7061-00" (that classy looking zip-tie in my picture)
#190 "Capacitor Service Kit 502-7060-00"
... (and #187 Ecto Goggles Shield)

#13 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Making more sense to me after staring at the different pages in the GB user manual for a while.
Node 9 board, Transistor Q7 is associated with the left magna-sling.
The GI lights that I instantly noticed out on the playfield are using Q15-17.
The readings in my pic look to correlate to what I'm seeing, and with Q8's readings, it looks like I caught the right magna-sling locking on in time before it burned up that coil too.
Turning the board over, locating the labeled solders and following the traces, and inspecting the board even closer, I see that there looks to be some irregularity to the areas of the above-mentioned transistor solder connections.
It looks like I've located the blown transistors, and it seems like they were blowing in some kind of a lined order.
Now it looks like I need to trace some wires and look for any exposed copper, any bare wires crossing/touching, pinches.... Would a bad bulb be a culprit?
What else should I look for that would lead to transistors blowing on a board? I'd hate to install new parts only for them to suffer the same fate.
Is there a way f guessing/knowing wish transistor was the first to blow and concentrate on those wires?
Thanks for all the tips and help!

If your gi lights are out, there have been a few threads recently where the socket was causing a short so I’d start there.

I’m not sure what could have blown the magnet, maybe it just failed internally and blew the transistor. Maybe use a meter and compare readings with the other magnet/wiring to the magnet for clues.

Spike is a tough system to troubleshoot.

Have you done any work on the game prior to this happening?

#14 8 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

If your gi lights are out, there have been a few threads recently where the socket was causing a short so I’d start there.
I’m not sure what could have blown the magnet, maybe it just failed internally and blew the transistor. Maybe use a meter and compare readings with the other magnet/wiring to the magnet for clues.
Spike is a tough system to troubleshoot.
Have you done any work on the game prior to this happening?

Does this flasher live on node board 9?

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB188.pdf

#15 8 months ago

I thought the same, and with the play field up and peaking through the captive ball area, i verified the Mylar fix is installed.

#16 8 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

If your gi lights are out, there have been a few threads recently where the socket was causing a short so I’d start there.
I’m not sure what could have blown the magnet, maybe it just failed internally and blew the transistor. Maybe use a meter and compare readings with the other magnet/wiring to the magnet for clues.
Spike is a tough system to troubleshoot.
Have you done any work on the game prior to this happening?

I’ll poke around the opposing magnet coil wiring, see if any clues.

This has been my first real “gotcha” moment with my GB after 4 years NIB. I’ve never added any mods, so no alligator clips or out of factory soldering jobs.

Just wish I could chalk it up to the board living a good life and move on, waiting for replacement order to install. But the “why” in me wants to keep searching for the cause so I don’t have to have another $300+ Pinball Life order on my hands.

I hate to say that working on my former TZ seemed a little easier to pinpoint than this Spike on-board scheme.

#17 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

I’ll poke around the opposing magnet coil wiring, see if any clues.
This has been my first real “gotcha” moment with my GB after 4 years NIB. I’ve never added any mods, so no alligator clips or out of factory soldering jobs.
Just wish I could chalk it up to the board living a good life and move on, waiting for replacement order to install. But the “why” in me wants to keep searching for the cause so I don’t have to have another $300+ Pinball Life order on my hands.
I hate to say that working on my former TZ seemed a little easier to pinpoint than this Spike on-board scheme.

I also got the gb prem as a pre order and haven’t had issues but I barely play. I don’t even think I’ve done the above tsbs... hmm

#18 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

I’ll poke around the opposing magnet coil wiring, see if any clues.
This has been my first real “gotcha” moment with my GB after 4 years NIB. I’ve never added any mods, so no alligator clips or out of factory soldering jobs.
Just wish I could chalk it up to the board living a good life and move on, waiting for replacement order to install. But the “why” in me wants to keep searching for the cause so I don’t have to have another $300+ Pinball Life order on my hands.
I hate to say that working on my former TZ seemed a little easier to pinpoint than this Spike on-board scheme.

The problem with spike, or at least one of them, is few people have experience fixing and diagnosing, unlike your tz where there is a huge knowledge base. I wish I could be more help, but I don’t have much experience fixing spike either. I’d try replacing the transistor but not hooking the magnet back up. See if things improve. The gi issue sounds like a shorted socket or bad bulb. Inspect the sockets inside and out, remove all bulbs and add them back one by one.

You can always call stern, they have good tech support.

I wouldnt hook the new board up until you identify the problem.

#19 8 months ago

Thanks for your input. It's helped get me closer.

I wish it were as easy as going light by light down the wire strand checking diodes. With this Spike, it looks all wires are directly connected to each socket without a protective diode. Each light socket is screwed into the playfield underneath, so unscrewing all of them lights per strand to remove the bulb to troubleshoot is going to be a process requiring some time and effort. Going one by one per socket, per board connection, until I get to the short.

Time to start my search on troubleshooting Spike.

I've visually inspected all the wire strands connected to the affected 5 blown transistors, all look fine. The soldiers from each wire to socket looks clean. I didn't see and exposed wires touching along the search.

#20 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Thanks for your input. It's helped get me closer.
I wish it were as easy as going light by light down the wire strand checking diodes. With this Spike, it looks all wires are directly connected to each socket without a protective diode. Each light socket is screwed into the playfield underneath, so unscrewing all of them lights per strand to remove the bulb to troubleshoot is going to be a process requiring some time and effort. Going one by one per socket, per board connection, until I get to the short.
Time to start my search on troubleshooting Spike.
I've visually inspected all the wire strands connected to the affected 5 blown transistors, all look fine. The soldiers from each wire to socket looks clean. I didn't see and exposed wires touching along the search.

Someone in another thread reported a wire inside the socket causing a short, another showed a blob of solder if I recall. Unfortunately, if you don’t see anything from under the playfield, you’ll have to remove the sockets to inspect them.

Use your meter to test for shorts, visually doesn’t work unless you see something obvious.

#21 8 months ago

Following up from a previous comment of mine regarding the underside of the Node 9 board...

5552C947-4D58-4763-BE11-420C3AF40E5A (resized).jpeg

From reading the "thoughts on Spike" thread, one would think that the board has the logic to shut down the affected source of the issue/short. (I think I even read that you said similar). It doesn't look like that occurred, and it looks like the board started getting burnt up where I tested failed transistors.

#22 8 months ago

Looking at the schematic for the RevD board (which i assume is similar to your RevA) we can see that the circuit for Q1 through Q9 are similar, therefore we can expect your meter test readings to be exactly the same on each. Since Q7 and Q8 are not, we can assume the driver transistor and/or the suppression diode on those circuits is bad.

Driver MOSFET - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nexperia/PSMN027-100PS127?qs=5DYmZrWuUEqupow7jHI3kg%3D%3D
Diode - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Micro-Commercial-Components-MCC/SK510A-LTP/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadug4ucAn58i43aqQjoM8bBvCQz5%252Bh5smqP1hT0Elza8mug%3D%3D

The MOSFET is easy enough to replace (through hole) but the diodes will be a bit more tricky as they are SMD. Shouldn't be too tough if you have a fine point soldering iron since it is only 2 leads (not as hard as replacing a SMD IC).

#23 8 months ago

The GI driver transistors look good to me from your readings. However of you want to order some just in case they are here:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/FQP20N06L/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadujhaj0xBReI9xUAnlzFOBeKo69xT23Kvbk%3D

#24 8 months ago

Can you CAREFULLY look at D9 (the one with the zip tie through it at the top of your picture) and see if either lead is broken off? These would vibrate until one of the legs would crack, causing an overvoltage to the 6v supply (this includes GI).

If that is broken, you should get a replacement for it as well:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-General-Semiconductor/MBR760-E3-45/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiIANWfweiZVnqRONx8UmAa7nSQK1vptCZzj%252B8lEkARlQ%3D%3D

#25 8 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The GI driver transistors look good to me from your readings. However of you want to order some just in case they are here:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/FQP20N06L/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadujhaj0xBReI9xUAnlzFOBeKo69xT23Kvbk%3D

Thank you for the part number. I don't have much experience with board repair, and my soldering skills may do more damage to this board than fixing it.

I have a new board and magnet coil on the way from Pinball Life (yay $315 ). I'm hanging on to this current board and will attempt to repair it at a later time.

My focus now is to understand diagnosing the cause, and finding any short that would have caused this, if this is indeed the cause. The Spike diagnosis that appeared on the screen was very uninformative, reading that it couldn't find Node 9. I wish it would have pinpointed better like "transistor X detected...", or point me in a direction to look.

#26 8 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Can you CAREFULLY look at D9 (the one with the zip tie through it at the top of your picture) and see if either lead is broken off? These would vibrate until one of the legs would crack, causing an overvoltage to the 6v section (this includes GI).
If that is broken, you should get a replacement for it as well:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-General-Semiconductor/MBR760-E3-45/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiIANWfweiZVnqRONx8UmAa7nSQK1vptCZzj%252B8lEkARlQ%3D%3D

The D9 diode that has the zip-tie service bulletin "fix" looks like it is still solid, with each of the two legs soldiered into their respective connection points.

#27 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

The D9 diode that has the zip-tie service bulletin "fix" looks like it is still solid, with each of the two legs soldiered into their respective connection points.

Look at the leads not at the board but as they enter the black body of the Diode. Push on it side to side to see if one of the legs is broken off.

#28 8 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Look at the leads not at the board but as they enter the black body of the Diode. Push on it side to side to see if one of the legs is broken off.

Gotcha. Thanks!

The leads connecting to the black body of the diode appear intact, and has no wiggle or movement to it while gently trying to do so.

#29 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Gotcha. Thanks!
The leads connecting to the black body of the diode appear intact, and has no wiggle or movement to it while gently trying to do so.

Hmmm, OK then I really have no idea what caused the meltdown. It could have been any number of things.

Maybe the suppression diode failed which caused the driver MOSFET to fail which failed shorted, which caused 2 things: the coil to melt and the voltage be pulled down on the rest of the board causing other functions to fail like the GI.

Really impossible to tell for sure without repairing the board.

#30 8 months ago

You could test to see if the rest of the node board works by mounting it in your game and connecting ONLY CN1 (the ethernet looking cable) and CN6 (the main power input). Do not connect the solenoid outputs. See if the game boots without the Node 9 not found error.

Technically you should be able to connect everything BUT CN7 and CN8 (those are the solenoid output connectors with the shorted MOSFETS).

The game will not be playable (those solenoids outputs are critical) but you can see if the node board works. This should give you a good indication if the board is easily repairable.

Also, when you get the new node board, make sure to set the switches on the new board, just like on the old board. This sets the board to respond to the Node 9 address. Without it, the game will not know where to "find" the new board.

#31 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Making more sense to me after staring at the different pages in the GB user manual for a while.
Node 9 board, Transistor Q7 is associated with the left magna-sling.
The GI lights that I instantly noticed out on the playfield are using Q15-17.
The readings in my pic look to correlate to what I'm seeing, and with Q8's readings, it looks like I caught the right magna-sling locking on in time before it burned up that coil too.
Turning the board over, locating the labeled solders and following the traces, and inspecting the board even closer, I see that there looks to be some irregularity to the areas of the above-mentioned transistor solder connections.
It looks like I've located the blown transistors, and it seems like they were blowing in some kind of a lined order.
Now it looks like I need to trace some wires and look for any exposed copper, any bare wires crossing/touching, pinches.... Would a bad bulb be a culprit?

Sometimes the coating on the wires in a magnet coil get too soft from heat, forming just enough of a hole for wires to touch and that shorts out and blows the coil, then almost immediately the transistor, too. It looks like your magnet coil melted and blew the transistor. I'd replace the transistor first and make sure that doesn't blow right away on power up before plugging in another magnet coil. I'm actually surprised these magna slings aren't fused for this very reason.

#32 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sometimes the coating on the wires in a magnet coil get too soft from heat, forming just enough of a hole for wires to touch and that shorts out and blows the coil, then almost immediately the transistor, too. It looks like your magnet coil melted and blew the transistor. I'd replace the transistor first and make sure that doesn't blow right away on power up before plugging in another magnet coil. I'm actually surprised these magna slings aren't fused for this very reason.

I was thinking the same thing about fuses. I just might add them as a preventative.

#33 8 months ago

I had the same thing happen on my Stranger Things Pro, it was the shaker motor that fried the board.

Do you have a shaker in this game?

#34 8 months ago
Quoted from dsmoke1986:

I had the same thing happen on my Stranger Things Pro, it was the shaker motor that fried the board.
Do you have a shaker in this game?

"How" did the shaker motor fry the board. Was it some obvious vibration related failure or ?

#35 8 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

"How" did the shaker motor fry the board. Was it some obvious vibration related failure or ?

No idea, I just smelled smoke, lifted up playfield and the wire leading from the shaker to the board had fried the board.

#36 8 months ago
Quoted from dsmoke1986:

I had the same thing happen on my Stranger Things Pro, it was the shaker motor that fried the board.
Do you have a shaker in this game?

I DO have a shaker motor on this game, and it is connected to the Node 8 board. Would that affect Node 9?

#37 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

I DO have a shaker motor on this game, and it is connected to the Node 8 board. Would that affect Node 9?

Very unlikely. Your melted magnet is pretty much the clue. It probably failed and took out the transistor.

#38 8 months ago

Reporting back with some more findings.

Using my multimeter, I did some continuity testing with all of the GI (CN15) connected to this Node 9 board, as well as the drivers connected on CN7 (blown transistors Q7 and Q8). My testing sourced from the molex connector that attaches directly to the board, and the destination was each individual end-point connection. I did this for both the source power (+) wires and the return (-) wires.

CN15
- GI 118 (red/yellow - ) (red/black + ) GOOD
- GI 119 (blue/yellow - ) (blue/black + ) GOOD
- GI 120 (green/yellow - ) (green/black + ) GOOD

CN7 (blown transistors Q7 Left Magna Sling, Q8 Right Magna Sling)
- Left Magna Sling (orange/blue - ) (gray/brown + ) GOOD
- Right Magna Sling (orange/violet - ) (gray/brown + ) GOOD
- Left Pop Bumper (orange/black - ) (gray/brown + ) GOOD

I didn't seem to find any loss in continuity on any of the above (beeeeeep, .3 or .4), so there doesn't look to be any shorts in the wiring. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Out of curiosity, I tested each of the magna sling magnet coils. The left magna sling that burnt up read 1. The right magna sling that looks to be ok read 3.5. I received those same exact numbers on 5 seperate tests. Left magnet coil is dead to me HAHA.

I mounted the Node 9 board back to the underside of the playfield, plugging in ONLY the 2 Ethernet cables (CN4, CN5) for Spike BUS communication, and CN6 for the main power to the board. Powering the game ON, I still received the message "9 NODE NOT FOUND". I went into the Node Test Menu, and there were no errors reported except for Node 9 ("9 NOT RESPONDING"). I attempted the Node BUS Test to no avail on Node 9. I performed the Node BUS Test on all other node boards with no errors reported, and communication present to all.

Not sure what else I can do at this point until I get the new board delivered and installed. This board isn't being recognized even without any load connected.

Being that the GI wires test good for shorts, and the associated transistors do not seem to be blown, is it safe to believe that the GI is not the cause of the Node 9 board failure? If that holds true, it would save me a lot of time unscrewing each and every GI light socket from under the playfield for visual inspection for issues that other Spike users have recently reported. And it would save me even more time not removing each bulb for additional testing.

Is there a chance that the left magna sling lived a good life, and out of nowhere decided to end it all and lock on, resulting in its transistor pulling the cord, and the board making the ultimate sacrifiice in the end?

I'm thinking that once I receive my new board, that I'll reinstall, starting with the smaller loads, one at a time, building up to adding more connectors one at a time. Thoughts?

Any other ideas for testing and diagnosing?

#39 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Very unlikely. Your melted magnet is pretty much the clue. It probably failed and took out the transistor.

This is what I'm thinking too.

#40 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Any other ideas for testing and diagnosing?

What do the LED status lights on the Node 9 line up with on the LED status table here:

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-7017-72D-Core-Node-Hall-3amp.pdf

#41 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Out of curiosity, I tested each of the magna sling magnet coils. The left magna sling that burnt up read 1. The right magna sling that looks to be ok read 3.5. I received those same exact numbers on 5 seperate tests. Left magnet coil is dead to me HAHA.

I'd expect a coil that looks as burned as that one to be shorted internally. You do not know if this occurred first and blew the node board transistor or if the node transistor went first, overheated the coil which resulted in the coil shorting.

#42 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

What do the LED status lights on the Node 9 line up with on the LED status table here:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-7017-72D-Core-Node-Hall-3amp.pdf

The red LED is solid on (48V present).
The green LED is solid on (6V present)
The amber LED is off/dark.

The LED Status Table description: "48V present, 6V present, processor not running: check 5V and 3.3V supplies."

Looking in the GB user manual and the Node 9 pinout on page 25, I see the 48V input power on CN6, but I do not see any pinout for 5V/3.3V inputs. I assumed the board received it's power all from the 48V input and performed the electrical step downs within the board architecture.

Does this indicate that the component(s) on the board that perform this function have failed and unable to do so? AKA my board is shot.

And I appreciate everyone's input and ideas. Thanks

#43 8 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I'd expect a coil that looks as burned as that one to be shorted internally. You do not know if this occurred first and blew the node board transistor or if the node transistor went first, overheated the coil which resulted in the coil shorting.

This is the chicken or the egg question I want to know! Was it the coil that went first or the transistor? Knowing would hopefully help me figure out if I have a bigger issue at hand or it was a simple and inevitable part failure.

#44 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

The red LED is solid on (48V present).
The green LED is solid on (6V present)
The amber LED is off/dark.
The LED Status Table description: "48V present, 6V present, processor not running: check 5V and 3.3V supplies."
Looking in the GB user manual and the Node 9 pinout on page 25, I see the 48V input power on CN6, but I do not see any pinout for 5V/3.3V inputs. I assumed the board received it's power all from the 48V input and performed the electrical step downs within the board architecture.
Does this indicate that the component(s) on the board that perform this function have failed and unable to do so? AKA my board is shot.
And I appreciate everyone's input and ideas. Thanks

I think that's the way they do it. You might want to PM Borygard for verification. If that's the case, he can likely fix it for you, too.

#45 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

The red LED is solid on (48V present).
The green LED is solid on (6V present)
The amber LED is off/dark.
The LED Status Table description: "48V present, 6V present, processor not running: check 5V and 3.3V supplies."
Looking in the GB user manual and the Node 9 pinout on page 25, I see the 48V input power on CN6, but I do not see any pinout for 5V/3.3V inputs. I assumed the board received it's power all from the 48V input and performed the electrical step downs within the board architecture.
Does this indicate that the component(s) on the board that perform this function have failed and unable to do so? AKA my board is shot.
And I appreciate everyone's input and ideas. Thanks

Yes, there are 5v and 3.3v regulators on the board that make their power from the 6V supply. Seems the damage to your board is more extensive than just the driver transistors. U7 and U8 are the regulators.

1 week later
#46 8 months ago

I wanted to jump back in to add an update and some closure to my issue.

I received a new Spike Node board and magnet coil from my Pinball Life order. I started by installing the new board, only connecting the two ethernet cables for the Spike bus communication (CN4, CN5) and the main 48V power supply (CN6). The game booted without the "9 NODE NOT FOUND" error message, and all of the board's LED status lights were now functioning as anticipated. I then connected all of the CN molex connections with the exception of the CN7 connection powering the magna sling coils. Upon booting up, there was still no report of any errors. I then connected the magna sling coils, and proceeded to connect CN7 to the new board. I powered the machine back up, and still no errors present!

I played a couple of games to test it out, and everything looks to be in good working order now.

Thank you to all that chimed in with ideas and tips to my issue. It's great to have a supportive community when it comes to actual tech troubleshooting and fixing of issues without any of the "noise" that some threads spiral into. I appreciate everyone's help!

#47 8 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

I wanted to jump back in to add an update and some closure to my issue.
I received a new Spike Node board and magnet coil from my Pinball Life order. I started by installing the new board, only connecting the two ethernet cables for the Spike bus communication (CN4, CN5) and the main 48V power supply (CN6). The game booted without the "9 NODE NOT FOUND" error message, and all of the board's LED status lights were now functioning as anticipated. I then connected all of the CN molex connections with the exception of the CN7 connection powering the magna sling coils. Upon booting up, there was still no report of any errors. I then connected the magna sling coils, and proceeded to connect CN7 to the new board. I powered the machine back up, and still no errors present!
I played a couple of games to test it out, and everything looks to be in good working order now.
Thank you to all that chimed in with ideas and tips to my issue. It's great to have a supportive community when it comes to actual tech troubleshooting and fixing of issues without any of the "noise" that some threads spiral into. I appreciate everyone's help!

If you send your old node board out to Borygard for repair, it will be interesting to see what blew out on it.

#48 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you send your old node board out to borygard for repair, it will be interesting to see what blew out on it.

Yeah! Please consider sending off the board to someone that does board work to investigate. No one has done much yet with broken ones

2 weeks later
#49 8 months ago

Late to this thread.. but was it possible that the lead switch in the slings got stuck closed by the rubber, causing the magnet to be ON and burning up?

#50 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Late to this thread.. but was it possible that the lead switch in the slings got stuck closed by the rubber, causing the magnet to be ON and burning up?

I checked the switch and sling rubber, and there didn't appear to be an issue.

Since replacing the magnet coil and Node 9 board, all seems to be good and functioning as expected.

Hey there! Got a moment?

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