I'm curious as to where GB will land in the top 100.
BTW - No GB at Flipper's in Grandy,
NC yet. I can't wait to play one.
Premium on order for me.
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I'm curious as to where GB will land in the top 100.
BTW - No GB at Flipper's in Grandy,
NC yet. I can't wait to play one.
Premium on order for me.
I'm a little confused about the PKE skill shot. I guess you choose P,K, or E and try aim for the lane that is lit. Later on if you
have 2 lanes lit do you aim for the unlit lane?
Also, I can't seem to see my score until the very end.
Quoted from 30FathomDave:I've got a 1 5/8" hex post. I'll have to try that right ramp trick. Mine isn't impossible to hit by any stretch, but it's definitely the hardest shot in the game - and I get plenty of rejects. So there's an existing hex under the playfield that I just swap out?
Yeah- Remove one top screw then remove hex spacer. Really easy. If you tiny monkey fingers you can replace hex spacer
without removing gerbil cage but it's only 2 more hex nuts to do that.
It was my gripe too, about not being able to see you score and hence progress. With AS the score is posted a lot and makes team play better - at least you know where you are compared with someone else
My GB is fine. AS is split on left side. Less than 100 plays. Teflon sliders on legs. I've ordered reinforcements for both.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Wow...sorry to hear that is happening to your game. This is BS that this is evening happening on new games. Has your distributor said anything about taking care of the issue?
I just discovered it last night. Stern should at least reinforce the corners
Quoted from abagwell:How exactly would I be able to tell if it isn't factory default? Sorry, new to pin ownership.
Adjusting is easy - just an Allen wrench. But the question becomes should your settings or not. I'd say if you consistently have trouble making a certain shot then try moving the flippers. You can always move them back. But there's always a give and take to a certain degree when messing with the flippers. The flipper angle that makes it easier to backhand the ramp for multiball lock might make it more difficult to make the right ramp, etc. Raising both flippers to make them less "droopy" might close the SDTM gap some but might make it harder to hit left or right targets. You have to adjust them where you like and it's OK to experiment.
Arts air ball protector has been working great on my GB.(Thanks Art and good luck on your medical problems) Even my Scoleri brothers worked right out of the box. My only GB and AS problems have been the cabinet which I fixed. I played a non-airball GB before I bought mine so I can say some kind of protector is needed. I added a pinball life lower playfield kit as well.
So far I've had zero service calls this summer from my Stern games (AS and GB). Also I've had zero problems with WOZ though I averaged 2 calls per summer on WOZ the last 2 years in addition to the multiple problems I had during my ownership months of October through April. I guess it goes to show that JJP can make a reliable game once it's dialed in.
How can I make Newton balls more sensitive? Maybe go with lighter balls? Are the dayglo balls better?
Thanks! A big thanks. Book stacking is fine. The library ball gets stuck at the top. I thought it was a switch but I'll remove.
Consider buying the Pinball Life center post. It only saves about 20 - 30% STDM and it is removable - it does not make this game easy at all. After a long while of playing this game you will get a sense of what shots to avoid and you can remove the center post if you want.
Quoted from Utesichiban:I bought my GB Premium from a guy locally about 8 months ago. Can anyone tell me how to turn on the scream everyone complains about in the settings? I would like to turn it on just to hear what all the fuss is about but have gone through the settings and have not been able where to turn it on. Any insight is appreciated.
Adjustments - GB - Scare feature (#49 I think)
Quoted from Utesichiban:Thanks but I haven't been able to find it. Any idea where?
Open access door. Press black button twice. Choose "ADJ" then choose "G.B." Go to #49 "Allow Scare Feature" and turn "On"
I keep mine off - it scares the bejeezus out of you as it's loud and completely random.
Quoted from Don44:That's the spirit! I have been waiting a week now for the new code and I'm getting anxious. I only picked it up a week ago. Seriously though, I wouldn't know the difference at this point. I have probably played about 20 games on it and I don't think I have really even had a good ball yet. It's fun but a lot of sdtm and outlane drains.
I installed the SDTM center post long ago - I think it helps this game...not something I'd normally do but it saves the ball about 25%. Also it's removable.
Quoted from yzfguy:Get the ball in that scoop and an extra ball is added during the multiball.
Thanks!
I would add the airball preventers and the center post - you can remove the center post if you want to. Also replace the hex connector under the right ramp with a 3/4 to 7/8 inch hex connector from Marco spec. Replace the top screw with a 6/32 one-half inch screw also. This will give you and adjustable right ramp - the factory ramp is set too steep.
I've found GB to be lots of fun, even with the old code. Of course new code would be great! But playing Munsters, Iron Maiden, Deadpool broke down any of my resistance to buying a new Stern
Quoted from oradke:The shaker was easy, so why not?
I think you'd need the board to drive it also and the premium software. It's not plug and play like the shaker. The Ecto glasses are neat but aren't all that.
Quoted from spidey:It doesn't make the shot easier. I believe the issue is that, like many owners, I raised the angle of the flippers to be even with the return lanes. The result is the right ramp is now so far at the end that the ball speed is slower, so it can't make it around the loop. One game I had 7 ramp rejects in a row. The ball would almost make it around, then fall back.
If you're not having that problem, then no need to make a change. But if you are, the hex post under the ramp on the right side can be replaced with a shorter one, 1 5/8".
It's frustrating to have the ball go 1/2 way up the ramp then come back down on the premium. I removed the hex post entirely and the game play was much better but the ramp was a bit wobbly so I got a shorter post from Marco - it's been a while but I think it was about 3/4 inch or so.
Quoted from mbelofsky:I have a Premium and read about the middle lower right ramp being hard to get and the ball comes back down. There were some comments about changing the size of the hex post I think to 1 3/4"? I cannot figure out where and what would change to make this a more "do-able" shot. Does someone have a photo and can point me to the post that should be changed?
There were also comments about removing a piece of mylar near a switch on the loop. I am not sure where that is. I'll look but any photos are appreciated.
I did buy the shape ways brackets but added the plastic protector on top. If I open the game to work on the other stuff, I might as well change these too.
I love Cliffy protectors. But removed them on the Scolari brothers pop up targets since it appeared to create air balls.
I did buy the protector that goes in front of the Stay Puft guy. It broke soon after and I was sent another and it broke. So I just removed it. Are the comments about reducing the coil strength on the plunger in regards to stopping the ball from banging into something up there and just coming down the right loop?
Sorry for all the questions, but it is time I do some fixing up in preparation for the new code.
The ramp is too steep, too tight and my ball came back about 40% of the time. There's a Phillips screw on the ramp and you have to remove it. Then raise the ramp a bit and you'll see the hex spacer. Remove the spacer - you can trim the spacer (Dremel) a bit and reinstall but if you go too far there are no threads left. You can remove the spacer altogether, squash the ramp down and see how you like it- but you'll need to replace the hex spacer for stability eventually. I went with a 5/8 inch or so spacer from Marco and now I make the shot (when it's aimed correctly) about 90% of the time. You might buy a few spacers in 1/4 inch increments to find the one that suits you. This is one adjustment that makes the game much more enjoyable.
Quoted from psexton:The leaf spring (I believe it is called) at the top of the subway ramp does not register when the ball passes by. I believe it got bend backwards when a ball rolled back on it when I was lifting the playfield. I have tried to bend the metal leaf with little luck it the correct result. It either does not register or if i bend it too much it does not allow the ball to pass.
Any ideas how to fix this?[quoted image]
It looks like the two prongs of the metal flat part just above the yellow button are not seated. Push the prongs into the black plastic base reseat them.
Then it's a matter of adjustment. The switch should press in with light touch and you should hear the "click" if you listen closely. You can go past this point and but you get resistance which will trap the ball. Then it's a matter of taking two needle nose pliers and adjusting just the "U" shaped part to touch the ball enough to activate.
Quoted from Coindropper:Made some printable cards if anyone is looking. This post are the original sizes. that need to be resized
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only#post-5153032
If I only had a Deadpool...
Quoted from Coindropper:Scroll down. Had to lump them all due to original resolution request. All printable, not a sell thread.
Sorry - They are great!
Quoted from billsfanmd:Is the center post avail by itself? I have plastic protectors already.
I don't think so. Mine came as part of a lower air ball protector. You can keep the protector but loose the center post if you want. If your protector extends over the gap then I suppose you could drill a hole in it and add a post ( the center post is hung from above, not mounted in the play field). I find the center post saves about 20% of STDMs. I like it for me and my playing ability.
It's probably to leave the glass off a while after adjusting flippers and play it a while. I've found when you help "this" it might hurt "that" - If you increase the cradle ability of the left flipper you might make the left flipper to right ramp shot almost impossible. It's best to find the right compromise for you.
'Just updated..WOW! More callouts, more new graphics, Scoleri Bros toned down a bit and better integrated. Blinding light show is gone (only played once though) game is much darker at times. Much easier progression to next levels. This is a much better game now, both for newbies and experts. Thanks Stern!!
Quoted from JimB:Of course new update and I have to fix something. Can someone tell me how to get the rollover switch adjusted so it doesn’t hold the ball? If I bend it too much switch doesn’t trigger.[quoted image]
Also, make sure the metal thingy is seated in the plastic. While cleaning you can dislocate it a little making it hard to close. With switch open pull the metal part down into the plastic and it'll snap back in pace.
Quoted from tasman:just did the update and now it says to put in coins to play , can't find in the menu where to change this . does someone know where to find this in the menu
Thanks
Press black button in door twice - Adj, standard adjust, #39
Quoted from bicyclenut:Has the game moved up on the list since the update?
I don't think so - it takes time. I just think since Stern went to the trouble to update, we should give an honest reevaluation.
I cringe when I see someone has drilled the playfield - I guess the owner certainly has the right to. For me the center post is better, it's removable.
It's your game so you can do whatever to make it harder or easier. I like the center post so it stays on GB. My Aerosmith, made the same week as my GB, has ideal gap straight from the factory and I wouldn't dream of changing it.
From the look of the damage this wasn't just normal wear. I've seen where if the linkage to the flipper rod is tightened too low or high on the flipper shaft it will still work but be in a bind.
Quoted from Flash71:What size is the installed one and what size did you step down to ? Thanks in advance. That shot is fairly agitating. Lol!
It's been so long I don't remember. I bought 2 or 3 different
ones as they were so cheap Marco handling is not. I think
Maybe 5/8 inch??? You can saw off the ones that come with the game or Marco's.. to a point. You should be able to make the ramp about 5 out of 6 times after modification.
Quoted from Ceemunkey:I posted this in the issues thread, but has anyone had any problems with the flipper buttons not registering? They don't activate in the switch test - everything else seems to be functional and my distro
also sent me a replacement node board which has not resolved the problem. The EOS switches work, and the flippers fire ok in coil test, so its just the flipper button switches (both sides)? Any ideas from the collective minds here...?
Try the switch test. You should see "left flipper" when pressed and "left flipper EOS" when released
The black/green wire is ground and common to both flippers. Trace these wires.
BTW- My EOS switch was bad on my GB and I had no idea, so thanks for making me check mine.
Make sure your plug ins are not off by one pin-this happened to me.
It sounds like you have continuity from the node board to the flipper button. Your problem is upstream from that.
Set meter to "ohms" then stick both leads together. You should get continuity. This checks your meter. Run one lead from left flipper black/green wire to tilt mechanism top wire here in photo. You should get a beep but probably won't. You could jump these connections and flippers would work in theory but the proper way is to trace the wires and find your fault. I'll look at mine and reply if I find anything.
PXL_20210203_133119138 (resized).jpgCheck your connector CN2 on node board. Make sure pins
Are aligned correctly. Unplug CN2. You should get connectivity between black/green and the uppermost pin
(With bed raised), where the black wire plugs into CN2.
I guess your black wire feeding CN2 has no ground so follow it upstream. Maybe a black wire in the back box. I think that's where it starts but I'll check later.
Wait. You have no continuity between CN2 top pin and black/green wire at flipper? Then your trouble is south of that. Pull plug where black/green exits node board. Test between plug black/green and flipper black/ green. Tell me what you find. Also test between CN2 top pin, where black wire enters and the pin on the node board where black/green exits- this would test if you have ground continuity through the node board.
Yes, it's something simple. I imagine your playfield upkickers aren't working either, making me think a main ground isn't plugged in or plugged in wrong.
Ejects usually have leaf switch that makes the solenoid trigger. Yours probably needs to be bent a little.
Quoted from sethi_i:Recently the subway eject has started shooting out a ball during normal gameplay. It doesn't happen every game, or more than once a game, but it has been happening more often. During normal gameplay, I can hear repeatedly the subway making the "thunk" sound, as if it stopped a ball for an animation and then released it to be ejected back into play, even if there is no ball there! If there is a ball there, it will put it into play.
If I let one of the balls drain, it triggers the end-of-ball bonus sequence. Although there is still a ball on the playfield. Is this a trough issue or a subway issue? I'm planning to run a switch test tomorrow. I just wanted to get input before I start blindly poking around.
I wanted to add, since your switch seems to stick closed and not open, there's a good chance the switch is going bad. If bending or fiddling with the switch seems to work for a while but the problem comes back replace switch.
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