waiting for a Pro down here in Aus, beautiful looking game
a moment in time, some links for people to go back & search and read other GB stuff especially when this thread gets some age you can find older threads more easily
The Official Release
Issues and Fixes
Podcasts (interviews with John Trudeau and Zombie Yeti)
and a link to my available mods
sad news for aussies, shipment has been delayed and the first container now not getting to Sydney until end of June..... another 8 weeks... bummer
I have been sitting on this mod for a while and finished off the universal mount bracket so this can now be mounted to a side panel or base panel or a overhead panel - with no screws and easily relocatable with no damage. the window is approximately 38mm square with both panels front and back back lit.
Quoted from jeffsgames:
Got an example of what this would look like in the game? Where are you intending?
Sadly Australia machines are delayed for another 7 weeks but the design allows it to go anywhere where the customer wants to place it as it is magnet mounted hence the rotation mounting options of side, base and top mounting.
Here is a simple mod for the Stern Ghostbusters pinball - Ghost Trap for the shooter gauge slot on the apron. These are renders showing what it would look like with the green section as a simulation of possibly some green led glow from underneath that could be on all the time or timed with an insert of the ball launch ?? something for you to decide and customise a little. Simply double side tape it down or 2 dabs of a silicon glue. Either paint or print up a small piece of paper or sticker for the hazard tape on the opened doors.
nearly done and will post an update in the custom flipper bat thread
colours are just random but
Red - 2 7/8" bat
Purple & White - 3" bat
Yellow & Black - 3 1/8" bats ideal for the Trudeau flipper gap
another option for longer flippers is the 3 1/8" custom quick swappable bats to swap between 3" and 3 1/8" in a few minutes all with the playfield down in the playing position, PBL perfect play rubbers fit nicely.
Quoted from jonesjb:
Doesn't changing the flippers switch all the angles in the shots?
no because the same profile continues down a few extra mm's, with the tip of the bat being solid, allowing the option of 2 7/8", 3" or 3 1/8" bats swapped out for fun, comps and kids in a few minutes now possible.
did a road trip and finally picked up a new GB Pro. beautiful looking game...
I haven't played yet and noticed already probably 100 dimples (to be expected from a play test but still surprising having not played it yet). My question to those having bought new sterns, on inspecting the playfield I noticed 6-7 raised bumps in the clear where it must of had crap / dust on the playfield when curing and never buffed off. What is going to happen to these spots as that are in the main front to middle of the playfield. Will they level off or will the clear possibly crack / chip? I can't put a mylar piece on it as it will just bubble.
is this just a normal thing and will the raised bumps level out?
Can someone point me in the right direction for the GB rule sheets or a link - can't remember where I say them a few months ago.
Quoted from pinden007:
Thinking of getting GB pro next week.
Where can I get the cliffy protectors for this? Looking for the out hole, shooter lane, and storage facilty.
head to Cliffy and ask him for a set for GB, but don't think there is anything yet for the Storage Facility
for the shooter lane - I used cliffy's on the rhs of the scalloped grove and pinball life's for the lhs - wasn't a fan of the pounding of bolts for the cliffy lhs. Together they work well but if a ball is shot out hard sometimes it goes up and gets hung up on the pinball life one on the edge. Happened 4 times in 400 games - need to turn the power down on the trough switch.
I finally got to the stay putt mode but didn't know what I was doing
Can someone explain the stay puff mode on a pro for me, and on the pro does he change colour and how.?
Quoted from CyberNinja24:
Has anyone hooked up mods on their GB machine that need to hook into a GI lamp or flasher?
I have a die cast car that I'm trying to hookup, but I am struggling to get it to light up. It came with a red and black wire and I am trying to hook it up to the scoleri lamp but it won't light. I know the car lights up because I just tested it on the shoot again lamp on creature and it lit right up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
just guessing, but could be the polarity of the leds inside the car, so try swapping around the connection / bulb that you are connecting too ????
when adjusting the flippers make sure the bat is not sitting on the deck of your playfield otherwise you will start to loose art very quickly - just be mindful and copy the gap from one for the adjusted one.
Quoted from pinden007:
Noob putting an order in from pinball life.
I have no pinball parts. Help me put a list together of things I should have on hand for my GB and pinball in general, e.g., extra lights, springs, cleaning products, etc.
definitely swap out the pin balls
cliffy's for the shooter lane and drain hole are worthwhile - contact cliffy on pinside
Not splits but I have designed some target wedges and currently testing to tilt the targets forward = huge reduction in airballs so removes the need for the air ball protectors - just need slightly longer screws for the target assemble.
edit splits is supposed to be splints, sorry
the target wedges are now available, also mentioned in the GB issue thread.
they come in single or pairs and the pairs is more affordable
cut the 2 branches off to look like this
remove the targets and install the wedge
and you will need 1 x longer bolt as the current one just a fraction too short. For more info check out the link. This basically turns the target into more of a bally / wms style and keeps the ball down and greatly reduces airballs - still get a minor hop but no massive airballs anymore.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:
Question: who makes the slingshot lane protectors that don't cover up the whole area. (like the ones that come in the upgrade kit from pblife) Saw a GB on route with these and I like them better than the ones that cover all the lanes with just clear plexi.
I've looked on here, modfather, etc, and just not finding it.
TaylorVA has teamed up with Cliffy to do nice metal ones to blend in better.
Quoted from djoverpour:
Can someone tell me what the two circled lights do? The one on the right is lit more often then the left, but I can't figure out what they indicate. Thanks
would be good if they finished some code on these as I would love to finish off with a interactive mod to link to these.
Quoted from miga:
I was wondering if someone knows if you order a new GB Pre from a distributor now, if the playfield is not only fixed ghosting wise but if the clear is fixed too, and maybe looking like a AS playfield?
Also the GB playfields seem to have a softer wood, at least the early ones.
Played my friends AS LE and that PF just looks awesome. Hardly any dimples.
Aussie's distributor in NSW - AMD Amusements wouldn't have old games as keeps selling out.
I do think the wood is a little softer than years ago but they are probably using more fast growing tree plantations now so not alot of choice there just the industry. Gomez said in a fairly recent interview that they have settled on a clearcoat now that is durable but flexible which means they will all dimple compared to their previous clears as they were much harder but had a tendency to crack and ghost. I got mine in Feb 17 and was a Dec 16 build and has been great - some dimpling, no cracking or ghosting with 600-700 plays.
I did see a facebook post about code, not specifically on GB but someone asked what about GB code and the Stern response was just wait.... but who knows, but really hope so.
Quoted from 30FathomDave:
After owning this game since October, I finally lit Stay Puft for the first time tonight... only to brick my shot and immediately drain.
One of these days, Stay Puft...
know the feeling
I got it for the second time yesterday on the last ball to only launch the ball up behind the library and got caught, slid the glass and tried to then drop the ball down the shooter lane to give me time to slide the glass up and tilted the game lol
Maybe they can setup the replacement part at Shapeways as then it would be solid nylon. That is the downside of home 3d printers as the parts are only a % of fill (not solid) and therefore weaker. Make sure to reach out to Mezel as sure they would replace for you, and make any necessary changes.
I have the ai artwork for Pinbot which I am sure has the same playfield design, you could change the colours of the bot to the jackbot version to have some really unique...
finally installed 2 x Ghostbuster mods - Firestation Plunger Plate, and custom solid polished brass Firestation shooter to capture the feeling of the building history.
wondering if another idea for the modes to get around the linear option is for modes to be offered in the order of the ball in play.
so hit ghost and then slimer to be offered regardless of what has NOT been completed at the beginning of the ladder:
ball 1 - Spooked librarian, We got one, Who brought the dog
ball 2 - Back off man, He slimed me, Spooked central
ball 3 - Librarian, The ballroom, Gozer the Gozerian
Scenario 1 - is if you have a crap ball one, you are offered a different mode for ball 2 etc = mixes it up for players and changes the strategy a little.
Scenario 2 - if you complete say mode 2 and 3 of a particular ladder in those balls (2 & 3) the lesser non finished mode is offered as the next to be played in ball 3 for eg.
Scenario 3 - Stay Puft still has to be earned after completing the 3 modes on the rhs ladder.
Scenario 4 - on completing a mode still keep the flashing option of all 3 ladders of that ball, or then the lesser then the higher - depends what has been completed.
so still linear in a way to play the end of ladder modes like "we came, we saw" but with a little variety and allows a player to experience some of the more higher levels and maybe a bonus can be given if you complete the modes in order like spelling FILM in CFTBL
one CODE thing that would be great - is those 2 red inserts in the outlanes light up to a function so us modders could adapt a mod to or to flash fast synced when the flippers switch to opposite sides ...., as I never hear the sound when the switch starts and always lose a ball or 2 when the mode finishes.
I know a number of us have been battling the solution to the airballs off the x2 and x3 multiplier targets including my wedges that I designed and made available on Shapeways a while back which had mixed results.
I have been tinkering away in an attempt to improve on those. My thoughts was always that we shouldn't have to design air ball protectors and wedges etc and it must be something about Stern's target design - in that it has changed.
the target design has changed, as it use to have the angle built into the bracket where now it is vertical and that it has lowered - yes gives a cleaner look but effectively drops the rivet down at the ball impact height where it is luck if the ball deflects down or up off the target rivet. Therefore I redesigned the Stern target base mount to have a 5 degree lean forward and with the mounting holes lowered a few millimetres which effectively lifts the target higher which in turn means with the target sits higher and now leans forward 5 degrees. Now the ball hits the lower side of the rivet of the target and since there is a lean forward the target deflects now to roughly the vertical position together keeping the ball down on to the playfield.
I have been playing for about 20 games and really focusing on smashing the multiplier targets as hard as I can, with the overall results being:
- x 3 multiplier - very successful and very very happy - no airballs in 90-100 hits
- x 2 multiplier - successful and very happy - did not have any airballs on direct hits but still had a couple of very small hop airballs - but nothing huge like it use to. So not 100% successful but alot better than standard and the wedges so a 95% improvement. I believe the angle that the x2 multiplier sits contributes to hard to the side hits that do a unusual airball deflect.
if you want to give these a try head to Shapeways on the link below and pick a metal print that suits your taste and give them a play. There is no tapping or drilling to do just bolt in using the same bolts and footprint. I can't control the price as that is deemed by there pricing, sorry. Shapeways will have a free shipping deal for anywhere in the world for Cyber Monday.
new and Stern bracket side by side
new and Stern top view of slot differences
the bracket locations - new bracket is the same thickness so fits in the same mounting locations
original impact height
3x target upgrade installed comparison to the 2x
2x & 3x bracket installed and you can see the raised impact height difference now
Quoted from abagwell:
Pro here, that's neat about the slings though on the Prem+, saw that mentioned earlier. Also yeah, after the initial honeymoon phase of having it wore off I'm wanting to progress more into the modes but about 80% of my ricocheting balls hit the side of the outlane and drop straight down at a right angle, with no chance to even nudge save. That compared with the droopiness of the flippers leading to very difficult ball control is just making it too frustrating. I don't mind the large gap in the middle on its own, but all of that together is too much.
lift up the flippers so that it improves that area
as for the rebound off the rubbers that then send the ball down the outlane is frustrating at time - I do have a possible solution for this - just need time.
Quoted from scarybeard:
So, my Library scoop metal protector that came from the factory got bent out of shape after a few thousand credits, causing the ball to bump SDTM when coming out of the orbit. I bought a brand new Cliffy replacement and it's already also gotten bent out of shape. I don't see a ton of people complaining about this part on the forum, so I'm going to assume there's something off about my machine. Perhaps my playfield has a slight warp there or something, I don't know.
Rather than drop another chunk of change on replacing the piece again, I'm considering just removing the protector.... I figure worse case scenario, in a few years I might start to see some chipping or wear on the rim and if its a problem I can just cover it back up again with a protector. But maybe I can keep applying a clear protective coat to the most abused areas of the scoop? The storage facility saucer has no metal protector and it's holding up fine.
Any advice on what kind of clear protective coat I can brush onto heavy traffic areas?
check out my post on another thread where my scoop failed, yours could be heading that way ???
my distributor sent me a new one but I stuck with my beefed up one
Quoted from Budman:
I’m contemplating a Pro purchase and wondering what is a “ safe built after date” considering some of the playfield and cabinet issues I believe was occurring ?
after Dec 2016 should be fairly safe, mine is from that period and outlanes are lifted and don't need a protector, still dimples but they all do, I put on the drain and shooter lane cliffy's and been going strong since with no ghosting inserts.
Quoted from freddy:
looks like you could wedge the original bracket to achieve the desired angle.
that won't work as already tried the wedge within the assembly for some success, wedging between the bracket and playfield will fowl with the circuit boards and the new brackets actually lift the target as well as tilt it forward with the combination working very well.
Quoted from MightyGrave:
I bought the plates for the targets from you and they work o.k. for me... But a protector was the cheaper way to stop the airballs complete. I added a washer to the ghost target so the angle is more to the playfield. But with fast balls I got airballs. Maybe i should buy one of your new target base.
based on your response you purchased the my original design which were the 4 degree target wedges and agreed they worked ok and had a few ways to assemble so results for people varied.
The new metal brackets now tilt the bracket 5 degrees forward from the vertical but also raise the target up 2mm which has the ball hitting the target under the rivet which improves the ball control.
Not to slam the airball protectors, but they are trying to tame the problem and not solve the problem.
I know when I had no target modification the left target was my larger problem of the 2 giving me some massive airballs so the angle that it sits within the playfield must be contributing to the issue. so for you arcadiusmaximus try rotating the left target a fraction so the left side drops down a little and test and then rotate up to see it removes the occasional airball.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:
Regarding the multiplier standup airballs - Has anyone tried adding a layer of dead drop foam on top of the existing foam, extending it up to cover the metal tab? Seems like this tab could be a major source of rebound energy, and the foam would both damp it and keep the target from angling back as much, thus rebounding the ball with less energy and at a lower angle.
yes I did lots of experimenting with that and explained on the gb issue thread but summary here:
experiment 1 - just the extra foam - did reduce the energy but made them hard to activate and had to hit them hard to activate them then producing an airball at times
experiment 2 - designed my wedges to tilt the targets along with the foam and still made them hard to activate and heavily reduced the airballs on the right (only occuring 1-5%) but not as much much on the left (occuring 5-10%) at a guess. So the left target pan angle does have an outstanding issue to the airball situation.
experiment 3 - designed the new bases to better introduce the 5 degree angle but also lift the target 2mm trying to keep the balls impact below the target rivet and effectively keeping the ball down and returning to the flippers fast, but with a glancing shot to the left target very occasionally gives you a small air ball / hop.
I strongly believe Stern changed their target bases from what use to have a angle bent into them to now a vertical target and lowered the target for a cleaner look but the negative of these 2 things is the lack of angle allows the target to go back beyond the 90 degrees along with the rivets location encourages the ball to go sky bound and hit the perspex ball protectors or fly through the game.
there are 2 pieces that interlock into it and it is a standup sign for the backbox or elsewhere
Q1 - did anyone ever hear how the proton streams would interact with the game?
Q2 - were they linked to the red inserts or or the proton pack insert?
Q3 - also apart from points what does the gear assist to?
Quoted from Damagio:
New GB Pro owner here. Loving the machine so far! I had played it before and it was okay, but my daughter and I played it quite a few times at GS Pinball Festival and added it to my want list...what do you know, one came up on CL for the right price, so I grabbed it.
Stern's have a really nice feel to them, like when you close the door on a BMW...just feels tight and solid.. It had 925 plays on it and I believe it really is HUO, but man...dirty playfield! I cleaned and waxed it immediately. No ghosting at all, so I am happy about that. I will order Cliffy's….only noticeable issue is the shooter lane by the ball eject is worn.
1) It has the "old" Slimer, so it's not ultra sensitive. I moved the cable to the center and don't see a difference. It definitely registers a direct hit, but not a glancing blow, so I see it as a...you have to be accurate....like shooting a lane.
2) Lot's of air balls! Should I turn the coils strength down? Probably how the playfield got so dirty.
3) Very few STDMs....the ejects seem to divert to one side or the other really well.
4) Recommendations for mods?
check through this thread and the Ghostbusters issue thread for tips for tuning and fixes
1. if a pro the hits to slimer most of the time need to be straight on
2. these brackets will heavily reduce the airballs
3. that's good
4. there is a ghostbuster mod thread for mods and check the bottom bar of this thread and on shapeways, hooked on pinball etc.
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:
Any speculation on what the unused outlane inserts were intended for and how they'll tie into gameplay in the future? ? They are round, red inserts in my game, with no writing or graphic on them. I have a theory that they were intended to be part of the so-called "proton stream" feature that never made it into the game. I'm hoping a the long-awaited code update does something with them.
I have been wondering the same and hope they are used in the code update for the reverse flippers and stay permanently lit when the flippers are reversed.
Quoted from Utesichiban:
I am looking at buying a used HOU GB Premium from a guy a few hours away. The only concern I have is the ghosting and playfield issues Stern has had with these since they brought them out.
I believe this one has a build date in early 2017. Can anyone comment on when Stern supposedly resolved the ghosting and chipping issues with GB? Is anything manufactured in 2017 in the clear?
pretty anything after Oct / Nov 2016 is pretty safe
I personally did opt for some cliffy's for the drain and shooter lane as protection
As a timeline - I got my Pro in March 2017 (in Australia) which was a Oct 16 Playfield and a Nov 2016 build and no ghosting has occured, but has some crazing on the large mode directional arrows from new and you won't see it until it is on though not a big issue and hasn't grown after 1200 games. It also has the mis-spelling which is a non issue.
Awesome game, except for the drops, they are annoying and turned off.
As for the photos of the Premium - not sure if they are marks on the glass but seems to be a smudge on the 60" and "80" insert rings???
Quoted from Kraiklyn:
A rogue ball seems to have chipped my Ecto Goggles glass right at the front! Does anyone know the process for getting a replacement? I
think i could probably rotate it around so the chip is at the back but thought I may as well bank a spare anyway.
I'm a bit of a newbie but I couldn't see a spares section on Sterns website so maybe I just talk to the distributor here in NZ? I guess I need to lookup the spares number too.
get yourself one of these
where does this go????
I had the hood (playfield) up today and then did a test game and the ball got stuck just after the launch lane up near marsh mellow man and the ball was stuck on a post laying in the orbit.
I have had a look around and can't work out where it is from - as not sure if it fell from a different location and rested in the orbit after the playfield was vertical
anyone know where this might be from - it is a grey hard plastic post with a screw going through the centre at with the grey post 32mm / 1 1/4" long
any help would be much appreciated.
here is a small little mod for the pro games - a strengthener bracket for the mounting point at the end of the ramp near the right side sling shot. It supports on the top and underneath the ramp plastic.
CFTBL has a similar mounting point and often in time this mounting point is susceptible to cracking / breaking.
If interested check out the most recent item on the link below.
standard ramp mounting point
strengthened up mounting point using the bracket available in various colours
This is a hotwheels mount bracket for the Ghostbusters pinball shooter lane utilising the spirit level mount holes (in which I also have a cliffy protector fitted so suits that as well) avoiding any new holes being made in your game, to mount a "regular" or "cartoon" style Hotwheel Ghostbusters diecast 1:64 scale car to give that affect that when you shoot a ball the Ghostbusters Team are off to catch ghosts. I went for a cartoon style Ecto purely because the game has cartoon style art.
To fasten the car to the bracket, either:
- drill out the rivet underneath and then install a new screw from underneath the bracket and into the car which there are 2 holes for install options
- drill a new hole through the car further down the centre and either screw fasten or pop rivet the car on to the bracket - use a few packing washers to stop any distortion of the bracket between the car and the bracket.
If you want to take it a step further,
- you could install a small 3-5mm led inside the vehicle's cabin and connect up to GI for a cool glow inside the vehicle
- add a few 3mm flashing blue leds into the beacons to pulse when the ball is in the shooter lane.
For leds you will need to drill a hole in the underside of the car for wires to pass through but there will be 3 extra holes in the bracket for the wires to pass through. AND there is even a cable tie anchor lug on the underside of the bracket to secure wires to one side and keep everything tidy and concealed without interferring with the ball. Then pass the wires under the apron side and be hidden away from the players view.
Simply select the material of your choice to get the look that appeals to you. On the one in the pictures I went for purple as it is similar to the playfield art style.
This bracket could even be used for the shooter lane with a Batmobile for Batman 66. Let me know if you want any other colours opened for more choice.
For the car apart from a hobby shop or your local toyshop you can find them at ebay.
Standard Shooter Lane
Shooter Lane with new bracket
Car fitted to new bracket
Slightly different angle with car fitted
Note: the ramp strengthening bracket in some of the shots.
Quoted from Mudflaps:
I had the same thing. Check Post #4772
I thought I saw it it somewhere, just didn't go far enough back - looks like a PITA to put back there as well.
Quoted from ctozzi:
Dropped off all my parts today at the powder coating shop to get a fresh glossy white after sandblasting the texture off. I can’t stand the Blah Black stern stock metals. The coin door went to a different shop, the plastics are a special paint to match setup.[quoted image]
look forward to seeing what you will do.
the problem seems to lay with Dwight as Games of Thrones, Star Wars and Ghostbusters all await code updates (maybe GoT is complete) he should be able to do another game until he finishes these 2-3
I still enjoy the game and hope for a few special features to make it awesome.
You would also think finishing the game and making it awesome would increase the sales even more....
Quoted from spidey:
In addition, I'm going to try the Mezelmod target splints. Usually I just use a washer under the pf to compensate for learning, but it didn't work with the shapeways bracket. It caused the switch to stay compressed. That left orbit is so tight I don't need target lean to make it worse.
sounds like you used the wedge and not the steel bracket and maybe some addition foam???? The wedges were my first attempt, but the targets need to come up so the brackets improve on this. One of the targets is under a circuit board so a washer is getting close.
I am pretty sure the splints stop the previous stern targets from leaning to a side unless your game has the older targets
Quoted from spidey:
No extra foam, just the Shapeways bracket. Using a washer to lean it made the 2x target not register.
the brackets already lean the targets forward so doesn't need washers, have you possibly put the washer on the wrong side under the bracket. Have you got a photo of the washers installed? just never heard of this issue and doesn't make sense - seems like something else is in play as the brackets won't affect the switch from working.
The only thing I can think is that in using the angled brackets and a washer increases the angle even more which in turn will lock the target hard up in the hole not allowing the switch to move.
The brackets will never 100% remove air balls but greatly reduces them, one issue that can't be fixed is the pan angle of the target and the way the playfield is made and in hitting the side of the 2x target will still give the occassional air ball. The plastic air ball cover purely limits the height of the airball and does not try to solve the airballs. These brackets get close to solving but the playfield is machined in a way that the pan angle can not be changed unfortunately.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:
Link to the latest bracket you designed? I want to give it a try. thnx!
I created a swap out flipper bat system that you can change the bats in a few minutes, post stays in and you can change the bat from regular (3") to lighting (2 7/8") or carrot lengths (3 1/8") in a flash. The downside it is a order from Shapeways and you need to tap a thread into the posts, unless someone wants to pump out a heap posts and make available and then the bats can just drop on.
these were version 1 with a hidden screw which looked good but the screw was hard to reach, the screw is now on top which is easier to get to but takes away from the look....
Quoted from spidey:
What I did was put a washer underneath the bracket (between bracket and the pf) on the right side, to make it lean to the right to compensate for the left lean that occurs during play. But it must just be too tight.
yeah that makes sense as there is not alot of room especially a side ways tilt, I don't think any washer, gadget, bracket, protector is going to SOLVE the problem....
- the bracket greatly reduces the air balls to an occassional airball / hop due to the pan angle of the target
- the protector controls the air balls but the ball is still going to get air, hit the protector and then rebound into your playfield and adding dimples
my preference is the brackets as they are steel and will last and I just can't handle the look of the protector - though no offense to the creator/s, just not my thing.
Anyone wanting some parts from Shapeways - Cyber Monday Sale
The Code is HAPPYMONDAY at the checkout point which gives you 15% off
all Swinks stuff
Pinball Repro Parts
Ghostbusters parts including the target brackets
Thanks for the support guys, a number of people grabbed the target bracket
Shapeways 15% discount extended for all of Tuesday now
The Code is HAPPYMONDAY at the checkout point which gives you 15% off
all Swinks stuff
Pinball Repro Parts
and Shapeways is introducing a price rise on the 1st Jan 2019 so in a months time everything will be 25-30% more expensive.
thanks for the support guys, in which about 10 people took advantage of the sale which is still running for a few more hours.
Zach Sharp on Head2Head podcast recently said that it was getting an update soon as well.
Just hope Dwight is not doing the next games code as then we are screwed for a while longer.
I call bullshit of that comment with the mode being a mistake and it should not of been on the card. If it made it on to the games rule card, went through numerous art checks etc then it should be part of the game or it should of been taken off very early days
What he really needs to do is use the red outlane inserts to stay lit when in the flippers swap and turn off when it goes back to regular, man I drain so often as hard to determine when you are in that mode or not. The wizard modes need to be a little more exciting as well - maybe he can check out the GB rules suggestion thread or it be sent to him.
Quoted from imharrow:
I installed the standup targets brackets today. They seem well printed and fit well. Unfortunately, for me I am not sure how much of a reduction it gave in airballs. I still felt like I was 50% or higher airballs of the targrts. Probably reduced it some, but I am still seeing a lot of airballs. Oh well, I still appreciate you designing these.
Thanks for giving it a try and I am surprised as though never promised to totally remove the airballs I am surprised you are still getting 50% airballs.
Is it a brand new game or had a few months of play? if the game is new things will tame down a little and you should see a difference so leave them in.
it doesn't help that the head2head guys aren't fans of GB, as there are more issues like the flippers swapping and a better indicator of when they are swapped, mixing up the ladders a little
overall I think Dwight just wants to move on and almost couldn't be bothered with GB which is a shame, unlike Lyman that wants to make every game a masterpiece
Quoted from Toucanf16:
I’m jumping into the fray and thinking of getting a Ghostbusters. I’m sure it’s been asked before,so please bear with me. Which model should I get? Any really advantage of the LE? There’s a bunch of GB in the marketplace. Is there anything specific to this game to look for when buying used, buying tips. Thanks!
I think GB is a good game and just needs a little polish. For me the Pro is ample, was not a huge fan of the magnaslings, would of loved the through the playfield ramp but both are fun games
I am working on a few game play changing mods that hopefully work and add a bit more playing pleasure after I finish snackbar mods
Quoted from Glenn70:
Haven't posted too much on Pinside but I'm sure there are others with this same issue, so thought I'd bring this up so someone could assist me. I hope I have posted in the correct area. I have a GB Pro I've had for 2 years and love it. Unfortunately the standard hole protector around the left scoop has raised/lifted to the point it affects the angle of the ball coming down from the left orbit. The raised protector forces the ball slightly to the right that causes the ball to centre drain EVERY time. So damn frustrating as affecting gameplay in a big way. I guess I have two choices:
1) use adhesive/glue to stick down the protector to the playfield.
2) remove the protector and put a little mylar down to help protect the timber around the scoop.
Any suggestions would be very grateful.
I would upgrade to a cliffy protector and his postage rates are good to down under
Quoted from Squizz:
New to the GB club
Q: What tweaks should be looked at - I have the GBLE
Q: Is the pitch 6.5 correct for this machine, or should it be 7.0 as I read somewhere a while ago.
Q: Is there a rules strategy guide as per V1.13 (I couldn't find on the forum)
A: align your bats with the inlane guides as some releases had saggy flippers, for the premium the rhs ramp might need some adjustment with the height spacer, angled target brackets
A: 6.5 is great, 7.0 if you want to make the game a little harder and faster again
A: check out the link
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:
I was thinking about picking up a spare node board just as a just in case. Node 8, which seems to fail the most, is listed as p/n 520-6985-72. Apparently this part has been superseded by p/n 520-7017-72. Can someone confirm this to be true? Thanks !
I came across this in another thread which should be helpful, by pinsider @hocuslocus
Quoted from Micky:
If only more people would talk with their wallets instead of buying every new Stern release. I now know quite a few people who have not been buying new Sterns because they are angry about the constant, blatant disregard for people who purchased Ghostbusters.
I like the look of Munsters Pro but not getting another Dwight game until GB is finished
yes avoid using the cliffy's for the scoleri bros drops and I turned the scoleri bros off a year ago as well. Early days I thought I would love them but, NO....
Quoted from PanzerFreak:
Yeah, just wow. Here's what Dwight said...
"When Munsters is done I will work on other things, not making any promises, Ghostbusters will definitely get some attention at some point"
26 months after the last code and that's what is said...wow.
just heard the pinball profile interview and he doesn't seem to have any drive for fixing GB, disappointing
yep want to go Munsters as well but put that on hold until GB is finished and Munsters shapes up
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:
Biased crowd here, but close to snapping one of these up as my only pin. I'm an average player. How frustrating will this pin be with the stock flippers and no center post?
Also, is there any realistic chance of code actually being finished?
it's a fun game for a average player, there are mods for longer flipper bats and centre post if you really want them
yes the code will come but even so the game is pretty good fun for the average to good player
Most games are measured from flipper shaft to flipper shaft and the standard is 7 inches, Trudeau typically goes 7 1/8 inches.
I designed my own set of interchangeable flipper bats where I can go between 2 7/8" to 3" to 3 1/8" bats and it only takes a couple of minutes to swap out.
Quoted from WannabeWizard:
Just traded for a GB Pro. All stock. Should I invest in a color DMD and a shaker? What other mods do people suggest? LCD DMD or LED DMD? Any suggestions will help on mods to enjoy the experience. Thanks
check out the link for a few things, the 4th item along is the metal angle brackets if you are experiencing airballs, the flipper slipper is still in test - waiting on some samples, but there are a few shooter knobs, plunger plates and even a car bracket for over the shooter lane for the ectoAdded 18 months ago:
sorry forgot to post the links
and then all mods, parts, tools etc
Quoted from WannabeWizard:
What link are you referring too? Thanks
sorry forgot to post the links
and then all mods, parts, tools etc
Quoted from bent98:
Hey, swinks, if the flipper slip works, I am wondering if you can make a longer flipper bat decal to cover the longer flipper.
Like these, http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/road-show/7669/flipper-bat-decals-for-road-show?c=2823
hey bent98, I am holding off on getting a shapeways order as am designing a few things to be made all in one go and do in one order as the aussie dollar is crap at the moment. I have some decals like this already and they could possibly just be centred but I won't make any more for the moment until I know these work the way I want and there is demand for these.
yep, love gb, needs a few code tweaks mainly the flipper frenzy - add a notification of on / off and also a menu option to turn off, a librarian mode, slimmer multiball would be fun, and add a more defined feature for when the gear collected and link to the red outlane inserts to light up as have a proton gun mod idea
finished mods for CFTBL and now working on a replacement firestation for the fun of it - still more to do but taking shape then once looking good chop down to fit into the space but sized to fill the same space height and width
Quoted from Barkz:
Hey everyone - hopefully picking up a GB pro soon, no mods added to it. wondering if there are mods I just need to have for this pin. I’m thinking the lane guards and the airball protector for sure - anyone else have mods for this pin in their “must have” list? (Example: shaker motor, etc)
targets either side of the ramp entry will give alot of airballs - 2 options are:
- perspex airball guard above the targets
- upgrade the target brackets to be raised and tilted
Quoted from delt31:
Looks like I'll be rejoining the club soon! Rolling the dice and giving this another chance with the anticipation of the code helping out.
In the meantime is there a DIY solution to replacing the balls on the left with green ones and best place to get ecto goggle protector?
just posting here as was brought up in the JP@ thread and the GB Code thread as people are saying the gap is larger than Trudeau's typical flipper gap.
Flipper Gap Myth Solved as a few years ago, as I had a quick discussion with Trudeau which started when we discussed the Snackbar mod I did for his designed game CFTBL
- The Flipper gap is a result of the flipper post placement & the angle of the flippers
- Stern's standard flipper post placement is 7" hole centres
- Trudeau's stanard signature flipper post placement is 7 1/8" hole centres on all games
- GB has the same flipper post placement is 7 1/8" hole centres
- what makes the flipper gap larger is how the flippers were angled lower than the inlane guides angle
- lift the flippers so the front face / rubber are inline with the inlane feed rails which brings the game's flipper similar to all his other games
- add carrots or even my quick swap out flippers which both are 1/8" longer which then narrows up the gap to narrower than a standard Stern
I recommend the 1st option and it only makes you a better player, hope that helps
Quoted from Spelunk71:
Thanks for that explanation. On the second option, would you angle the carrots to the center of the playfield holes or higher (as with option 1) to match the inlane rails?
personally align with the inlane rails
early gb's were heavily lowered and then a year later the flippers were lifted to just under alignment with the inlane guides
Quoted from billsfanmd:
Not sure I understand solution 1?
Loosen flipper bat and angle it down? Not sure how it reduces gap. any pics?
loosen the flipper clamp under the playfield and ensure the front of the bat / rubber run parrellel with the inlane guide. It helps to make some of the shots easier to shoot and when it the up position it the gap is a fraction closer - just try it.
Quoted from mbelofsky:
I love my GB Prem. Bought it NIB. I never really know what ball I am on. But I enjoy the game so much that I really don’t care.
When multiball starts and the game goes into Mass Hysteria mode, I don’t always know when it happens. Is there a sound or something I am missing? Sometimes I see it on the display but usually not looking. It also appears that the flippers switch back and forth so I am constantly loosing balls.
Is this just me or is this something that new code may fix? I like the code as is. But will appreciate new code when provided.
yes that is a frustration for many people, hopefully they implement the outlane red inserts when flippers are switched and a more distinctive sound and even an option in the menu to turn the flipper swap off.
Quoted from phlegmer:
1. Reduce airballs by replacing a couple target brackets (https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRBNG4DQK/stern-target-bracket-v2-5deg2mm?optionId=63971960&li=marketplace) [Wow almost $20 per bracket!]
my apologies about the cost, but they are 3d printed steel brackets and their process is not cheap, if I made here in Aus just postage alone would be over $27.50
I suppose look at it the other way, what is the value in reducing heavy dimpling by reducing massive airballs
Quoted from delt31:
So update on my end as I ordered these updated targets and installed today.
I was apprehensive as I thought it's a little pricey for two (around 50 shipped) but then I realized I spent 7k+ on this game and said don't be a dumbass sweating 50 bucks. Glad I did b/c they work VERY well. Plus I don't have that ugly plastic covering my ramp. Very happy. Easy to install too - just unscrew and replace with the existing targets which are underneath the table btw - check the pics on the website for ref.
thanks for giving it a try and trusting people's thoughts and the design
The gap was not a mistake, as is Trudeau’s traditional flipper spacing. The flipper spacing is measured from flipper shaft to flipper shaft and most designers are 7inches post to post. Trudeau’s was always 7 1/8”, but what makes it look bigger is when flippers on this game were set lower than the inlane geometry.
Quoted from delt31:
Obviously the gap itself is expected to be bigger but stern apparently admitted they were off with the measurements on this.....
cmon I need a super nerd pinball guy to back me up - I read it a thousand times on here!
I have taken off the glass on both CFTBL and GB and checked and they both have the same signature gap measuring from the centre of flipper post to centre of flipper post. I have never seen Stern admit they were off in dimensions - they won't admit to anything that can lead to loss of sales or replacing defective parts.
I talked to Trudeau about CFTBL and GB a number of years ago after GB release before the findings of his personal life. The gap is his regular signature gap as he liked to create a game that was good for the arcades - 2-3 minute games, hence lowering the flippers a more than the inlane guide angle. What he did say was the inlane / outlane guide was not meant to be as low in height as it came out initially which was raised a little in later production games.
I did ask about the outlane plugged holes near the apron and they were meant for the proton beam device which was axed due to cost.
this thread of a few years ago discussed amongst many things - gaps etc and the Italian bottom design and I put together a graph explaining a little:
typically 6 7/8" post gaps had 3" flippers and lighting flippers (2 7/8" flippers)
typically 7" post gaps have 3" flippers
typically 7 1/8" post gaps have 3" flippers and carrot flippers (3 1/8" flippers)
Quoted from T7:
Sorry Swinks - but you are wrong (nice post and charts though ).
I just took off the glass on GB and CFTBL and measured the flipper spacing (far end to far end)...
- GB: 7 - 3/4"
- CFTBL: 7 - 5/8"
So GB is 1/8" bigger gap - and it is a known mistake BTW.
So everyone please: use a fix and enjoy the FIXED version of the game!!!
You had me doubting myself and being a mech engineer, I was crap did I really get this wrong.
I am sorry to say with all due respect that you are incorrect, and really we are splitting hairs but this is to educate people on measuring and forming opinions on correct & incorrect information.
1. in your measuring we are talking 1/8" difference and for me is 3.175mm - but you are measuring at the outer of the flipper. We have a 1993 game with god knows what flipper replacements installed and a 2016 game using most probably Stern flipper moldings etc so not a accurate starting point as they would not be the same and this will affect measurements.
2. like I said with my diagram, measure hole centre to hole centre or centre of flipper pivot shaft to centre of flipper pivot shaft is the correct way to measure. Both are 7 1/8" between centres so whoever put it out there measured incorrectly (happy for you to put Stern's official comment reporting that the flipper centre spacing was larger than 7 1/8" and should be Trudeau's traditional 7 1/8" centres). In the below photos I started the measurement on 1" and it goes to 8 1/8" = 7 1/8" for both CFTBL and GB.
In saying this I am not discouraging people to put a centre post inbetween the flippers but it is not a mistake of Stern as Trudeau told me and I checked the spacing just now as a double check on myself as he stated to me that all his dmd games are 7 1/8". Just the saggy flippers enhance the gap more.
here is CFTBL = 7 1/8" flipper shaft spacing
here is GB = 7 1/8" flipper shaft spacing
Quoted from Jimmyapple:
What’s the best way to slightly raise the flippers to align w the lanes? Also will this increase the catch pitch? Mine are very difficult to catch and hold a ball. I more want a higher hold like my lotr. It’s too flat in GB. At least on mine.
GB came out originally with very low set flippers and then raised them a touch but not inline with the inlane guides. Place a ruler on the inlane guides and then once the flipper paws / clamps are loosened adjusted your flippers. I personally left them a little down from being inline but I can still cradle the ball.
Remember to check that the flipper has not dropped in relation to the playfield as you don't want playfield scraping - I tend to put a credit card under the flippers to rest on when setting then remove the card and you have consistent spacing off the playfield.
the gap in that photo was factory set after a year into production but the original production for the first 6 months was steeper again where you couldn't cradle the ball easily and just made the game harder. Lifting them up makes some of the shots easier but the gear and rhs scoop a little harder - but that is subjective to the player.
I hand made a template from my shown flipper angle which was factory before levelling with the inlanes and then returned back to my factory
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:
swinks consider me a doubter of any cross the streams mod, but I haven’t insulted your measuring skills either. Put me down as #4 for your mod and I’ll give it a go.
I do have a challenge on my hands, but I do have a cool idea - that is my goal
your on the list at #4
Quoted from Lamprey:
I don't think they made a mistake, but I can't say for 100% certainty. As for the flipper angle, I bought used, but the owner said that it came from the factory with the flipper pointing to the alignment dot/holes. Did this vary from game to game from the factory? I don't know.
for the first 6 months the flippers were very low to the point that you couldn't cradle and then they lifted them a little but still below the angle of the inlane guides
I have a few GB mods coming and this one is close to final testing and was just wondering what people thought of the concept.
This is dedicated for the GB Pro guys as the Premium / LE guys have this one.
And this is the design for the GB Pro people, it will have a front door that can be set to closed or open. It will use the lights from the ones already in the game in the top beacon lights which you just transfer over. It will have an additional hidden light in over the open door which will come on when the storage facility arrow is lit. It also has a cut away section in the left side to go around the post light to allow fitting but clean up a little as well.
It still needs a backing to the open door cavity area and was considering either putting the ghost trap holder model in there or a holder for a pinball to light up, any thoughts - like or don't like.
anyone know how long until the stream in hours / minutes
it's already 7:20am Thursday
that "Are you a God" wizard mode needs to be a fun mini game at start up - left flipper for regular game and right flipper for "Are you a God" mini game like a P3 game option
Quoted from RobF:
Yay beta testers! Thanks for the callout Dwight!
You guys pretty much got all the high points. The game is a lot more fun. I didn't see mentioned the addition of flipper and auto launcher coil power controls. Turning these down have really improved overall gameplay for me anyway. Another subtle change is that to start the right ladder the ball has to go all the way around the full orbit. Starting this ladder is no more a gimmie with a backhand.
so guessing that you were a beta tester....
it looked like alot of fun
do the outlane red inserts have any function?
what does the proton pack and ghostbuster gear do apart from points?
is there still any video modes?
Quoted from mzhulk:
They should make are you a god a mini game where you can just start there like they did on the stream. Its would be fun to have 4 players and see if we can beat the game
I did ask Dwight this a few days ago and he said they are considering but not in the code release this week.
I suggested possibly holding in the right flipper button while pushing the start button to activate this mode. In could make a very good Head to Head comp mode and agree it looked like alot of fun.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:
Wtb: Stern Ghostbusters Shooter Rod
Also have an ad on Marketplace
Or if you know a source that might still have one available
hey thecnypinguy , these aren't Stern ones but I have 5 different GB shooter knobs here amongst other things
Quoted from Looprunner:
-The flipper gap didn't really bother me. Although, it was tough compared to the other machines I have played. I kept trying to hold my ball with the flipper, which caused many drains due to the short flippers. I just need to train myself not to do it! I think I'm going to get the center post simply for my daughter. My boys do not want me to get it but I really want her to like the game. I'm not sure if post or the longer flippers are a better option. She loves the movie so I want her to love the game.
-The one thing that does slightly annoy me is that I can't see the skill shot letters. I have to stand on my toes!
- GB has regular 3" flipper bats so are not shorter but they maybe set to the real low sag angle meaning you can't cradle - just lift them up to the incoming angle of your inlane guard or a fraction lower.
- there is a see through plastic on the backboard that you can use the reflection to see what top inlanes are lit just incase you hadn't noticed this and there is a mirror plastic mod version around as well
I am shapeways biased as well so I say congrats on the designs urethrafranklin , and it takes some skill to design in a sculptural way.
What a lot of people don’t realise is these shapeways parts are solid nylon so are very durable and won’t warp with heat (from lighting or sunlight) or degrade. Some other products and their creators do a awesome job with their creative designs but some of their mods are made by home printers with some being hollow printed, some are brittle, some show largish print lines.
Also most of the charge is shapeways manufacturing and profit charge rate with the creator earning a small commission.
Quoted from Prodoshi:
Anyone have a source showing the actual (2019) intended flipper angle?
I want to go back to original. i allready removed the carrot flippers and made the originals droopy, but i dont know how much exactly.
i started playing pinball 3 months ago with the carrots and the funny thing is, removing the carrots didnt increase the center drain for me.
the droopiness even makes the left target much easier, because the ball somehow wont go crazy so much.
here is my actual flipper angle. you can see the little hole in front of the flipper as orientation.[quoted image]
align the centre of the flipper tip with the centre of the small hole is the intended angle, here is a quick sketch
Quoted from Prodoshi:
Thank you, i read alot about this controvers "hole alignment" discussion.
From my research I am think you cant take this rule for each game.
I also see alot of stern games with droopy flippers on pupalar pinball live streams, but maybe im on the wrong track.
I know they corrected the initial very-droopy flippers on GB, also an example against the "hole alignment" theory!?
Do you have any source from stern about this?
I took a photo of how my flippers were set when I got my game for future reference and this is how they were set which was a about 1 year into production. The flippers are still lower than the inlane guides (so slightly droppy) but not as much the initial release which were very droppy. With this setting I can still hit all the shots as well.
Quoted from EdHess:
Just happened last weekend...WE GOT ONE!
Coming from the Bally 80's world I'm a bit confused. These dont have any sort of prop rod support
So how do you set these upright at a 90 degree angle or less to work on the underside. Sure
I can set it at 90 degrees but it doesnt seem like you can rest it against the back box. Over 100 pages in this thread,
read about 40 of them so far but have yet to find the answer to be safe.
At 90 degrees how stable and safe are they?
Yes they are pretty stable and it the usual way to lean against the back box. Just make sure the play field back is pulled forward so sits in a V rest point.
thanks for sharing supersquid
the idea is that you keep a set of posts installed and within just a couple of minutes you can easily swap out the bats - 2 7/8" (like lighting), 3" (regular) or 3 1/8" (like carrots)
for example the kids want the bigger bats for the day and at the end of the day when you mates come over you can swap to 3" or in a comp you reduced it to 2 7/8" to really make the game harder it is a matter of undoing one screw and swap the bat in a minute with no need to lift up the playfield.
yes they are not the cheapest as the metal post cost from shapeways is not cheap. I could do it cheaper here but then freight comes into play.
A few people contacted me to see if I can remove the screw on top so currently tweaking the design so it is in the front and back and covered by the rubber for that clean traditional look but still change in 1-2 minutes. I also changed the design so there is no need to tap any threads.
Alternatively I would be ok with someone making the posts and then buying the bats at shapeways.
Quoted from oradke:
Actually, that's exactly what AdPin allows you to do as well. You can oben the flipper fingers from above and either swapr them out or just adjust the angle without having to lift your playfield. See video #1 here:
I have them in my GBpro and I really love them! Make sit super easy to fiddle around with the angles until you get it just right.
very cleaver product
Quoted from embryon:
And if not done correctly can cause wear on the playfield. Make sure the is a small amount of play between the flipper and bushing to avoid the bat rubbing on the playfield or binding
totally agree with embryon - this is very important and I typically place 1 - 2 credit card/s on the playfield and then rest the underside of the flipper bat on to the credit card/s and this sets a consistent gap between the flipper bat and the playfield.
and take note of the flipper angle before removing the current ones - cut a thin cardboard template just in case... and while there gap test the flipper bats with 1-2 credit cards
here is the first revision of the Containment Mod for the "Pro" only as it currently only has the flat plastic.
- everything fits well though will change the way the stock light boards fasten in a little.
- hides the spot light post nicely
- everything will be purchasable from shapeways and just requires a simply assembly and uses the existing light boards from the perspex panel.
- it has a light in the open door section that still needs to be connected using a star post light board from comet (already installed and can't be seen) which will hopefully light when the Storage Facility insert lights up to show you to shoot there.
- the only thing I have to experiment with is painting or using a marker to add shadow lines etc - what you see is straight from Shapeways and is nice and clean and red.
The door is open, though would people prefer the door closed.
I will try a camera tomorrow as the phone doesn't take the best photos, just loses detail, sorry
Quoted from UrethraFranklin:
That looks awesome. My only suggestion is to make the slot big enough for the Mattel ghosttrap. One that is easily acquired on ebay. The one that came with the 12" figures would be neat in there.
I can confirm it fits, just, a little snug - I will modify to be a little looser
Quoted from Fifty:
swinks If the door is left open is there an opportunity for the ball to get stuck there or is there not enough room?
I checked all around and no hang up points on the door or either side or on top
here are some better photos
Quoted from Prodoshi:
here is the construction link
yeah I bought that unit but it is very large and was aiming for a compromise.
with mine the direct 3d printing in red is a little more washed out in colour than I hoped and the details are lost visually especially in photos but also game lighting. I was hoping for a mod that people can purchase themselves to save on costs but when painting is required it is proven that they rarely sell well and if I paint them the cost goes up so not sure if I will proceed with this mod.
Quoted from PeterG:
I like that one, bought one myself to mod, but have an LE so there is no direct need. I like when there is not to much detail, since the rest in the machine is also a bit cartoony. I would not make it to realistic, it will just be out of place. With all mods is to look at the machine and see where things can blend in. The best mods are the ones that people think was done by the factory.
each to there own, mods are very personal, and personally I don't like the Premium / LE stock one as it is too far the other way. The city and library is semi realistic but the colour changes the feel and maybe that is all I have to play with?? I agree with you though the best mods are the ones that seem factory and these are a tough one to achieve though feel I did with the Snackbar Mod
Quoted from UrethraFranklin:
Sent you a pm about decals. Also you could easily dry brush some silver over the edges to give it a weathered look.
I don't think it'd hurt anything to put those covers over the lights. I would either put rivets in the model or the decals. I really love that design.[quoted image]
thanks for the help / info, I will have to look into the the dry brush aged look
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:
Which airball protector is everyone using? I would think that there should be enough play time on all the different versions now that one has risen to the top as the design of choice.
cpr9999 made the top guard which controls the airballs
and I provide the bracket option which tilt the target forward & tilt up to greatly reduce the airballs
https://swinks.com.au/dmd-parts and go down to Ghostbuster
neither totally remove the airballs as the pan angle of the target also contributes to the airballs as well.
Quoted from Electro0195:
Picked up my 1st machine today which was a GB Pro. Noticed there was a lot of air balls. Also noticed the Default setting was set to "hard" on the flippers. Has anyone noticed if you change it to normal there is less air balls?
congratulations, fun game
reducing the power may reduce a few of the high energy airballs but the issue is in the design of the target and it's facing angle. 2 major contributors to the airballs are:
- the targets are lower and now vertical compared to 90's williams and early 2000 stern's
- glancing side hit of the target
best way to reduce the airballs is upgrade the target brackets as this lifts the targets and tilts them forward greatly (not 100%) reducing the airballs
selfish plug to my brackets > go to the ghostbusters poster and go to the link and locate the brackets
Quoted from Electro0195:
Ok so I bought the left air ball protector from Coin takers and once installed when Slimer comes down and I go to make the shot up the middle to Gozar target and pop bumpers the ball will not travel through. Slimers butt keeps bumping the plastic on the air ball protector. Is there a way to adjust Slimer so he is a little higher so I can make the shot?
you shouldn't have to change the game to suit a add on.... I do remember some protectors needed a little modification
Quoted from PanzerFreak:
Just want to make sure I'm doing this right before I turn my game on. I've noticed that GI light terminals on GB have one end wrapped with tape or something from the factory. Can I connect one alligator clip to one terminal and the other to a separate terminal like below? These are lights for the PKE lanes.
personally I don't like the clips as at times with vibrations they can slip off and risk shorting, if there is a plug in bulb use these
and then other connectors
I designed one but no real interest so parked the design,
here is my version 1, then I made a few tweaks to the design which improved it over all and have version 2 ready to install (no photos yet).
I think I still have some basic flipper decals and stuff, will have a look if you are interested
Quoted from Jakers:
So, the “god mode“ that’s been implemented into the new code...is there a way to start that without going into the settings and turning it on? Flipper button combination?
I originally asked dwight to put it in as a mod which he did and then I asked if it could be started which in regular game play mod as would be even better with no answer / response. It would be good to have access from regular game play mode for arcade play as well.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:
Anyone have a set of Scoleri Bros Cliffy’s I can buy? Not trying to buy the whole $130 protector set. Thanks in advance!
I have a set never installed, will have to hunt around as packed away, but if you are interested send me a pm if you have no other offers
Quoted from Rydhia:
The beams came from the person who designed them when they were originally supposed to be in the game. Reach him by email email@example.com They should work fine out of the box, but if you want them to be interactive, there are two wires to solder. The beams are lit on there own, I believe they’re EL wire. They plug into the 12v tap by the coin door, I think it was CN1.
The apron is a spare stranger things I had from the UV kit. The glow underneath is from the beams, I just stuck the stickers from the plastic one underneath as if it were the plastic. I was more or less testing to see if I can make it work. I either need to buy one with a curve in the middle or cut it down, might powder coat.
The storage facility is that Walter Peck toy. Cut to fit and I used a dremmel for the light boards to show through.
It’s somewhat black light, I have pinstadiums and GITD titans but don’t typically turn on full black light mode, but thought it looked kind of cool without washing out the playfield.
can you post some pictures of the beams mech as just curious on what the design was